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And another one. This time to become a Hull & Barnsley Railway van, obtained for the princely sum of three pounds. Only very recently did I find out that these old Hornby vans are based on a H&BR design. My first trainset, bought for me at Christmas 1976, included a 'Prime Pork' van, which I filled with needles that had fallen from the Christmas tree.

image.png.55817fd90b2bd5bb009b99b1cc7ecbe8.png

 

Edited by Ruston
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I know, I know. It's not exactly industrial. It's turned into bodging pre-grouping wagons on the cheap. I say bodging because they aren't totally accurate but they will look near enough once they're finish painted, lettered and weathered.

 

The L&Y van.

DSCF3287.JPG.76f030dbcfd85143bf582add3646bb89.JPG

I messed this up at the final hurdle. I wanted the facing side (I use Dingham couplings so everything is handed) to be the one without the brake gear and the roof hatch at the far side but I went and stuck the hatch on the facing side by mistake. Headstocks and solebars are made from plasticard with springs, axleguards and axleboxes from 51L models. Morton brake gear is etched brass. Whitemetal RCH buffers. I looked online for the proper L&Y buffers and found that 51L models do them but they are out of stock.

 

The North British van

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The headstocks are made from plasticard and the solebars are Ratio. Single-sided single shoe brake. The roof is a sheet of plasticard that was sellotaped to a piece of wooden dowel and held over a boiling kettle so that the roof would hold its shape. Buffers are turned brass from 247 Developments.

 

The 'Hull & Barnsley' van

 

Cambrian models headstocks with Ratio solebars and brake gear. Roof replaced as it looked to be too thick  - same method as above used. Brake gear only on opposite side.

 

DSCF3288.JPG

Edited by Ruston
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  • 3 weeks later...

I have been in the garage, looking at the layout again. I've not been happy with certain aspects of it for a while and have decided on some changes.

 

There really isn't enough space to fit the kilns and other buildings for the pipe works in properly and have sidings to serve the works. So it may just become a scenic feature without sidings, or be abandoned altogether.

 

The RTP building that was supposed to be railway workshops, near the engine shed, has never really sat well. The main door just doesn't have enough space between it and the running line and I'm not totally happy with the dye works building and siding that I had put in the corner. It all seems a bit naff.  The engine shed being on a siding straight off the running line doesn't look right either.

 

The dye works is going to get the chop and the engine shed will be moved and the track layout altered so that the entry from the running line goes into a headshunt and reversal is required to access the shed. This will give a more realistic layout and allow more space for the workshop building and for a cameo with a dismantled engine at the back of the shed.

 

Part of the reason for siting the RTP workshop building was to cover a pair of point motors due to these having to be surface-mounted on the high level line. I may now do away with point motors altogether and have points operated by mechanical means, with seperate, manual, switching of frog polarity.

 

All of this will mean that instead of this being a large shunting layout it will be more about running through trains from off-scene mines and quarries to their respective off-sceneworks and to the main line railway.

 

More rolling stock:

image.png.8f2b305cd4662be756ce2c89a9865747.png

 

 

A GNSR First Class coach, built from a Prickley Pear etched brass kit. The prototypes were built in 1854, so would be very old by the time of my layout; they will be used as workmens' carriages to take quarrymen up to the quarries that are not on the route of the paying passenger-carrying 'light railway'.

Edited by Ruston
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I have been in the garage, looking at the layout again. I've not been happy with certain aspects of it for a while and have decided on some changes.

 

There really isn't enough space to fit the kilns and other buildings for the pipe works in properly and have sidings to serve the works. So it may just become a scenic feature without sidings, or be abandoned altogether.

 

The RTP building that was supposed to be railway workshops, near the engine shed, has never really sat well. The main door just doesn't have enough space between it and the running line and I'm not totally happy with the dye works building and siding that I had put in the corner. It all seems a bit naff.  The engine shed being on a siding straight off the running line doesn't look right either.

 

The dye works is going to get the chop and the engine shed will be moved and the track layout altered so that the entry from the running line goes into a headshunt and reversal is required to access the shed. This will give a more realistic layout and allow more space for the workshop building and for a cameo with a dismantled engine at the back of the shed.

 

Part of the reason for siting the RTP workshop building was to cover a pair of point motors due to these having to be surface-mounted on the high level line. I may now do away with point motors altogether and have points operated by mechanical means, with seperate, manual, switching of frog polarity.

 

All of this will mean that instead of this being a large shunting layout it will be more about running through trains from off-scene mines and quarries to their respective off-sceneworks and to the main line railway.

 

More rolling stock:

attachicon.gifCoach-1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifCoach-2.jpg

A GNSR First Class coach, built from a Prickley Pear etched brass kit. The prototypes were built in 1854, so would be very old by the time of my layout; they will be used as workmans' carriages to take quarrymen up to the quarries that are not on the route of the paying passenger-carrying 'light raiway'.

 

Lovely bit of character in that coach, Dave.

 

Far superior to the converted ventilated vans seen on some lines in the 70s.

 

 

Rob.

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Dave

 

apologies, having checked the ones I have are NER 4 bolt not L&Y 3 bolt ones. I will check the loose buffers but looks like I don't have enough for one wagon.

 

Baz

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  • 2 weeks later...

Several posts appear to have gone missing from this. (edit: they weren't showing before I posted this but now they are. Some quirk in the new forum, I guess) The vans in primer and a coach that I had finished. I also mentioned something about changing the track layout and even the possibility of doing away with some of the proposed buildings and industry. More of that later...

One of the reasons for re-siting the engine shed was the poor track layout and the location of a RTP building that was used to hide surface-mounted point motors on the upper section. I have decided to do away with point motors all-round and go for digital control, as in push a knob with a digit!

I milled some parts and soldered in rods and tubes for under the baseboards.

pointcontrol1-1.jpg.34885fddc541416080de6071b21b971c.jpg

And the digital controls.

pointcontrol1-2.jpg.6c9ab002d62688f44932fae56b77f0b8.jpg

Edited by Ruston
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Hello Dave.

I came to the same "DIGITAL" conclusion as yourself in deciding to go for a push-me-pull-me operation.  How have you setup the point overlock to keep the points switched over?  I tried just the friction of the mechanism then cut the push rods but held them together in a sleeve of silicone rubber tube which gave the added effect of never over driving the mechanism as when full over the rods slipped by one another inside the rubber tube.

I wasn't completely satisfied even though it worked flawlessly on my RC aircraft throttle mechanisms so I intend to now use like you some push rods with edge of board operation but using "Bluepoint" point actuation giving me the electrical switching of the point frog and the over latching I require too, well that's the plan.

 

cheers

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54 minutes ago, Barnaby said:

Hello Dave.

I came to the same "DIGITAL" conclusion as yourself in deciding to go for a push-me-pull-me operation.  How have you setup the point overlock to keep the points switched over?  I tried just the friction of the mechanism then cut the push rods but held them together in a sleeve of silicone rubber tube which gave the added effect of never over driving the mechanism as when full over the rods slipped by one another inside the rubber tube.

I wasn't completely satisfied even though it worked flawlessly on my RC aircraft throttle mechanisms so I intend to now use like you some push rods with edge of board operation but using "Bluepoint" point actuation giving me the electrical switching of the point frog and the over latching I require too, well that's the plan.

 

cheers

Hi Barnaby,

 

The points are Peco, so I'm just using the existing built-in  over-centre springs to keep the points over. For changing the frog polarity I am going to fit microswitches that bear against the cams. 

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Yes I will be using Peco too but I read somewhere that it was good to remove that spring but for the love of me I don't now know why.  Seems to be a case of if it works don't fix it.

 

Thanks for replying.

 

Best

 

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I like those little point activators you have installed under the layout. Just a thought but I use a SPDT slider switch for my points - the action of the switch throws the point (via wire in tube) and keeps it in place at either end of the travel, and the electrical contacts on the switch feed the frog. 100% reliable - so far....

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Yes Stuart I can go that route too should I change my mind again as I have a bag of 12 slider switches the ones with the extended slider for ease of drilling through.

 

Mmmmmmmmn ummmmm I used to be undecided but......

 

Best

 

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On 04/02/2019 at 12:43, Barclay said:

I like those little point activators you have installed under the layout. Just a thought but I use a SPDT slider switch for my points - the action of the switch throws the point (via wire in tube) and keeps it in place at either end of the travel, and the electrical contacts on the switch feed the frog. 100% reliable - so far....

But don't you have to put those on the baseboard surface?

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Yes - On the original layout I set them into plastic angle screwed to the side of the layout - doesn't look great but it works. On the newer board I've set them into the baseboard and hidden them with a Gents' urinal !

 

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Back on page 4 of this I showed a photo of the kilns and the manager's house. The house has had to go to make space for the kilns and the clay mine.

cvmr-1.jpg.663d999b0941dfea429f0f0f91256da9.jpg

The mine will be a simple horizontal adit at the far left of the above picture and the trams will run over a trestle to the building at the rear. The building will have a second floor added to the flat-roofed section.

 

The wooden trestle bridge has been altered with extra supports and a shorter span.

cvmr-2.jpg.3c901dfdb86ee8afb0d4ddc08029d3a1.jpg

 

The left hand front corner now has a building to help block the view of the exit to the LH fiddle yard.

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The canalside warehouse is made from sections of Skytrex resin mouldings. The mouldings as bought have a very heavy-looking masonry top section, which I have cut off to make a gable end for a roof that is made from Wills slate sheet.

 

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My great grandfather wasn't tight!  He was just VERY CAREFUL with money.  Being physically challenged with very short arms and the clothing fashion of his day involving very deep pockets, he couldn't be any different.

 

Weren't his fault mister............................

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There's nothing else to show just yet but half of the wiring is done and I am awaiting a delivery of DPDT switches so that I can do the rest. I am wiring it so that each section can be switched between 2 controllers and, of course, be isolated from both. In that way I will be able to run the layout single-handedly or with a visiting operator. I bought 6 switches from an exhibition for £1.75 each but I need 6 more. When I went to my local model shop I found the same switches were £3.30 each! I ended up buying online for just £1.50 each.

 

Two of the three signals have been installed and tested and once the remaining one is installed and tested, and the wiring completed, there will be no more need to invert the baseboards and so I will be able to finally join the two scenic boards together and lay the final pieces of track that will bridge the joint. Then the hassle of wiring is done and I can get on to more interesting things.

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