kada33 Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 This is my first attempt at posting work in progress so please be gentle! Recently my Springside Manor stripped it's spur wheel after around two years of use. I didn't build this engine and the motor/gearbox was not a good quality one, so I decided to give it a good replacement. So I chose an ABC gearbox and a Canon motor. I also replaced the Slater's crank pins with Derek Mundy ones, much better. Having followed Ozzyo's County build and many others in his 64 pages I decided to attempt his method of fixing the G/B & Motor in the frames, bearing in mind I had a built chassis to work on. This chassis has plunger pick-ups so as I had to replace all the wiring anyway, again using Ozzyo's technique I soldered wires to all the plungers prior to putting them back in the chassis. Ozzyo had already told me were to get the PCB board from (Maplins) so I cut up a suitable piece and removed a strip of the copper down the middle then drilled 8 holes for the wires. I drilled to holes in the a 7mm plastic sleeper at each end to hold the motor retaining (.8mm) wire. Drilled two more holes through both the PCB & sleeper to except 10ba screws, then screwed them together. The Photos will show this. Then using devcon epoxy I fixed the sleeper across the frames and left it overnight to cure even though is is 5min epoxy. That just left soldering the wires to the PCB and bending up a piece of wire to retain the motor. It is now ready for testing on my rolling road, I didn't get the quartering right first time but it's is fine now. I've run it for 30mins in each direction should that be enough? If it is then I can put back on the cylinders and vac pump. I will post a further photo at that stage. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 Hi all, I've now finished putting Bradley Manor back together again. The wheels I've treated with Birchwood Casey but this is not clear in the photos. So here's some photos of BM, chassis first then the complete Loco put back together. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 That looks pretty damned nice. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted September 17, 2013 Author Share Posted September 17, 2013 That looks pretty damned nice. OzzyO. Thanks Ozzy0 I didn't build it, a friend sourced it for me, I reckon I got a bargain for £500. It's now got a decent motor and G/B. I seem to be spending most of my time fixing my current loco stock in stead of working on new stuff. One of the tyres on the trailing wheelset on my 14xx had moved which caused it to derail going through points, that was fixed easily. I have a David Andrews 72xx that has split it's spokes and hub right behind the front cylinder. So that requires a major strip down, and I don't expect Stater's will be willing to change it? I bought another Springside loco off the bring and buy at Kettering this year, it was described as part built and with a running chassis and extras, which at the time I thought was a bargain at £199. Well it had been epoxy glued together badly both the chassis and the body, so over a week I unglued it all and started again, soldering it this time, I picked up several Peter Roles castings from Telford and am slowly adding them to the body, you can just see the cab in the distance in the Manor photos. I have photos of the rebuild If anyone is interested. Richard Webster of Lionheart sent me cab and backhead photos which are excellent. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonME46 Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 Looks great! Please do post up other pics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 Hi to all This is the rebuild of a Springside 64xx, I didn't take any photos of the loco before I started to dismantle it. This first photo shows the chassis and body stripped as far as I wanted to go without having to buy a lot more castings to replace the W/M items on the chassis. The tank sides were soldered to the cross formers and were level and true so I started from there. The chassis in close up, it has nice solid frames, taking off the brake hangers (glued) I broke several of the pins that support them, I shall replace them with brass ones. Just behind the rear sand boxes is a casting with a pin sticking out, this did continue across to the one on the opposite side, which supported the handbrake arm & steam brake arm. The problem was as you can see it goes right across the hole in the frame support which makes it near impossible to get the running plate screw in or out. so I cut it off and added another brass rod across the frames just behind the screw hole. Next up is the running plate, the wheel splashes had to be fixed to the etches before fixing them to the RP. The etches are very flimsy so I used devcon epoxy to fix both the splashes and etches to the RP. The three parts of the firebox were soldered to the RP. Both nuts needed re-fixing and there are four etches fixed to the sides valances of the buffer beams. The next item was to fix the tank top to the side tanks and the front plate with the smoke box door on it to the tank top. The top was low melt soldered to the side tanks, the front plate was soldered to the top plate with solder cream and to the front of the tanks with low melt. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 This is the running plate with more items added to it. Hand rails, tank supports, ejectors and smokebox saddle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 The next photo is to check out that the bottom boiler half sits in the frames ok. The cab is not fixed down yet, and it can be seen that the boiler half is short of the firebox by about 3mm. This next photo shows my solution a 3mm extention. Up till now I haven't shown any photos of the cab, so the next two photos rectify that. The body of the cab I left as originally built (by someone else) i did remove all the handrails and re-fix with solder. The doors, screw reverser, ATC eq. and the rear window grills were also soldered in place. The next two photos are of the saddle tanks with most of the added detailing, The vents and lifting plates are from Peter Roles. The water fillers were already in the box but not fitted, these are from Warren Shepard's range of parts. ( the kit ones are W/M) More of Peter Roles castings will be used as the rebuild progresses. Lamp Irons, Auto Gear set and Fire Iron set. Back to the chassis again two photos from different views. You can now see the new brass rod across the back of the frames. All of the brake hangers are free moving, unlike previously when they were glued up solid. I fabricated the firebox cover to help cover up the gearbox when viewed from below. The motor will be a mashima 1833 married to a ABC mini 3 stage gearbox. In the kit box was a nice set of Premier rods which I thought will do nicely, wrong, the crankpin holes don't line up. They should be 7' 4" X 7' 4" but the Springside rod holes were 7' 5" X 7' 6" so I unable to use them. I have fitted Derek Mundy Crankpins to the wheels and treated them with Birchwood Casey Super Blue. Most of this work was completed before I started on the Manor, fill in whilst I was waiting for Telford, to get the PR castings. This now brings me up to-date, I have some nice cab photos of a 64xx from Richard Webster of Lionheart Trains so as to enable me to accurately put together the Backhead components. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonME46 Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 All looking very tidy, seems to be coming together well! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted September 19, 2013 Author Share Posted September 19, 2013 Thanks Simon and to all for your encouragement. I have managed a bit more today, I'm also in the process of wiring and insulating my new railway room in the garden. I love it when the weather is rubbish outside cause I can then do some modelling with out feeling guilty. The PR fire iron brackets are excellent, there are two pins on the back which makes them more robust in fixing. (two holes drilled through the back plate and then the pins soldered on the inside.) I have soldered a piece of pcb/tufnell sleeper across the b/h hole, then fixed two 10ba headless screws onto the b/h, I can then attach this when it's finished using either nuts or nail varnish. This will allow me to now fix the cab front in place and add the b/h much later after it has been painted. I shall make a start putting the items onto the back-head next, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 Hi All I got sidetracked on the backhead so I turned my attention to how would I attach the cab to the running plate. This large item of W/M weighs 160gms and I didn't fancy trying to solder it. So I came up with the idea of screwing it down, the photo shows how. The two cross members are 7mm sleepers, the photo also shows an example of one. These were eventually drilled 2.1mm and taped 6ba. The extra holes in the middle were try outs to get the right size hole that gave a tight screw after tapping. The correct dill size for a 6ba screw is 2.3 but when drilled the plastic gets hot and gave an oversize hole, I had two re-drill the front sleeper again as I found when fixing it to the RP I couldn't get the screws in when the chassis was in place, the holes were right under the sand boxes so I had no choice but to drill new holes. I shall fix in place the front of the cab after I've sorted a method for fixing the cab roof which is another lump of W/M, During a conversation with Lionheart Trains at Telford RB showed me how his 74xx roof was fixed, this was using two small magnets attached to the roof and two L shaped metal brackets fixed to the cab sizes, so this how I shall use this method in future on my locos. Waiting delivery of magnets. Photos to follow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 Hi to all The magnets have now arrived so when I got a moment from doing DIY and repairs I fitted them to the cab roof and attached two steel L shaped brackets to the cab sides. The magnets are ring magnets made of neodymium (rare earth) and are 6mm x 2mm. 20off for £2.89! I have tried to get a photo with the roof in place, so I hope everyone will be able see what I was trying to achieve. The roof is not a good fit so I shall have to add a 1mm square brass piece on one side. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Now that is a different way to hold the roof on. I normally make little spring clips out of wire for mine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Looks a good idea too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 Looks a good idea too. Hi JeffP & N15Class The method is not mine, I got the idea from Richard Webster of Lionheart Trains, that is how his 74xx cab roof is held on. He said it was done when the Loco was being created in China. So if it good enough for a Chinese built 74xx then it is good enough for a Springside 64xx. I also have a 54xx to built at some point where I shall use the same method. This re-build it taking longer than I would like but up till today the weather has been fine and I've been concentrating on insulating the roof and fitting the ring main round our Summer House (My new Model Railway Room 12' x 9') And I still have four wall to fix Rockwool to! Kada33 (dave) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 Hi all, Managed to start on the back-head detail today as weather outside is really rough. Fitted all the major items in the top half ( all soldered in from the back ) There were five holes for the wash out plugs but there weren't any in the kit box, so I made my own. From the photo you can see they are brass 1mm square, I opened out the holes to 1.2mm and then counter sunk them 2mm. This makes them more realistic, as though a box spanner would fit. The next items to fit will cover up some of the items fitted so far, hence the photo at this stage. This is the first loco I've started from scratch so I'm still learning. Watching OzzyO builds does give one inspiration. ( his recent back-head build for one ) Kada (Dave) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 If I've inspired some people to start looking at the real thing to get the back-heads better, I'm happy. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted October 14, 2013 Author Share Posted October 14, 2013 Hi all I've added some more detail to the back-head today. First photo shows it temporary attached to the front plate, second one just a push fit to the cab. There were no fire door in the box but there was some chain, so I fitted them, a bit to much solder on the fire door but I had to keep adjusting the angle so as to clear the cab floor. There are 30 items listed in the instructions but no photos to show which is which. I do have 3 photos of a real back-head which were a godsend in identifying parts. I also have some photos of the back-head of an in service 38xx if anyone is interested. We could do with a files section here like the ones on the Yahoo groups, (7mm, gwr-elist etc.) I have now fitted all the parts listed and I'm not sure what needs fitting next, fitting the pipe work to the gauges might be a good idea before permanently attaching the front plate. For the moment I'll move onto something else to do . Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 This is looking good. I would add some copper wire to your backhead to represent the pipe work, it will bring it to live. I always have a stash of various sized electric cables for the purpose. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted October 14, 2013 Author Share Posted October 14, 2013 This is looking good. I would add some copper wire to your backhead to represent the pipe work, it will bring it to live. I always have a stash of various sized electric cables for the purpose. Thank you Peter, There is some copper wire in the kit box but I thought it might be better to paint the back-head before adding the pipe work. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 Hi All Whilst checking the tanks and the lower boiler plate for position I thought it would be a good idea to have a photo at this stage. The chimney dome and safety valve cover were just placed in position for effect. I shall fix the lower boiler half now I'm satisfied with all the positioning. I've also realised I need some glazing for the windows which make sense to fit before adding the cab front plate finally. Kada33 (Dave) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 Hi All I've now attached the Chimney, Dome & Safety Valve plate but decided I didn't like the way the injectors looked, so I removed them replaced the pipe that goes into the cab and drilled a hole in the running plate to add the pipe that goes from the the injector down behind the cab steps. But whilst waiting for the pipe dimensions from Castle at Didcot I went back to a Damo B that was almost finished, I have now fitted Slater's casting rather than the etched ones in the kit for the lamp brackets on both ends, plus the whitemetal bump stops and hinge castings. See the photos attached. You may have also seen on the Ultrasonic Cleaner Topic that I've just ordered a JPL 8050D-H model, it has not arrived yet, but the DamoB will the first item to go in it. There is a difference in one sides steps from the other, the far side are Slater's coach bracket castings where as this side are from the kit and not so robust. I may change it before painting the model. I also have an Asmo as a kit to build one day, The DamoB carried one car and the Asmo carried two. Kada33 (Dave) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simons9 Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Hi, I am new to his forum and had just started on the same kit, so your photos have been invaluable, the instructions aren't the easiest to follow!, . Caught you up and look forward to the next instalment, your making an excellent job of this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Hi, I am new to his forum and had just started on the same kit, so your photos have been invaluable, the instructions aren't the easiest to follow!, . Caught you up and look forward to the next instalment, your making an excellent job of this. Hi Simon Thank you for your kind words, you say you have caught me up! Does that mean you are at the same stage as me, the model is ready for the undercoat? I didn't like the fold up lamp brackets in the kit so as I had said at the beginning I substituted them for Slater's one's which are lost wax and have two pins on the back of each one, fitting them through drilled holes made them more ridged. This is from the SDR so it may be of some interest to you. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simons9 Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Hi Dave No, caught up with your last pictures! Got a few bits missing I have asked spring side for and ordered the Peter roles parts as look much better. Got a few bits to go but enjoying it, bought it part built of eBay! Just assembling dummy inside motion which has been fun. Haven't been to sdr for a while, be good to visit . I got back into o gauge through the build the flying Scotsman, but got so bogged down on the motion I thought I,d cut my teeth on something easier. Your backhead pics really helped. Got numerous other ebay wrecks to rebuild, soldering nowhere near your standard, ok on brass but not on whitemetal Cheers for your inspiration, has really helped and got it moving Just got to build the gwr/lswr garden line to run the stock on!! Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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