Now I'm back from the UK and have some time to spare here is the update on the van. I'm limiting this to pictures only.
chassis parts and technical plans
1 assembled chassis 2 wheel silicon mould 3 tyre parts etc with one wheel completed van body painted
van body from different angles, windows are blanked out for painting but are clear plastic underneath
The last entry I made some time ago was the CC1 'booster' loco. Unfortunately I ran into problems with designing and cutting the roof successfully and it lay abandoned and subsequently trodden underfoot in the everyday bid for survival. I've been pre-occupied with trying to get the house up together and ready for sale so haven't had much time to think about railways. However I did find time to buy a book about British Railways' road vehicles in particular the Commer Q25 van which first came into
I have made a start on this model but to date I haven't got very far with it due to other commitments. The model will be in O gauge either cardboard or plastic card possibly a mixture of both. I have drawn up the experimental parts for the roof,seen here I also took a couple of photos of the assembled parts.
This photo best illustrates the curves of the roof so this was my guide for producing the drawing in inkscape. After much adjustment I finally got the curves right. The end pan
While I overwintered in Wales I took with me some modelling stuff, well quite a large cardboard boxful to be more precise, along with the silhouette cutter, laptop, etc. While I was there I went to the O gauge society expo in Reading and was tempted into buying a Parkside LMS brake van kit, mainly to get a feel of working in this gauge in preparation for the forthcoming CC1 mentioned in an earlier entry's comments. I was impressed by the contents of the box, although the price is a bit on the he
I refitted the bogies to the shortened cl45 chassis to which I'd fitted some 3mm channel to form the solebar and to this I added a representation of the brackets to which the lifting lugs were attached, this was given a coat of Tamiya nato black. I cut a length of plastic tube and glued this to the underside of the roof with epoxy. This lined up with a hole drilled in the chassis through which I inserted a 12ba brass screw that tapped its own thread in the tube and held the body in place, the 3m
D16/2 blog entry 5
The D16/2 is now finished
As I've been in the UK without broadband I've not been able to keep this blog up to date, coupled with the fact that due to the black card I've been using not showing up well in photos it would have been difficult to show my progress. But, as always,where there's a will there's a way, so I'm composing a draught of this blog on my phone with the new Google docs app, hoping to upload it online at the local library.
The next stages of the construct
I've chosen the title of this blog for two reasons.
First is what the title suggests, there isn't much to add to the D16/2 category at present as I've just been going back over what went before and putting right a few minor wrongs. Which were mainly the ends being flat instead of bevelled. This has been corrected and the ends/sides re-united so we're back to square one. I've used the previous photo to illustrate this rather than take a photo of the same thing but modified.
Just a short blog to keep you up to date. I mentioned before how it was more difficult to attach the ends onto the end of the sides as opposed to between them due to clamping a long length. This has proved to be true. I made up a jig to hold the two parts with clamps, and got the two sides attached to the two ends. However one corner wasn't quite to my liking and also when I saw the photo it became obvious the completely flat ends weren't correct
The next photo shows quite clearly
I've now more or less completed the drawing up of the various parts, although some may yet need alteration as I go along, as has been the case so far.
On the class 50 that I've just completed I made the ends to fit between the sides, on this one I've done the opposite. There isn't much to choose between the two really. The reason I changed was
1 on the other one I had to ease the sides out to slide over the lugs on the chassis frame and it caused very minute cracks to open up in the paint,
It was as I suspected, the superglue had bonded to the poly glue and pulled it away from the plastic of the chassis. I cleaned up the surfaces with a scalpel and then filed them flat with a needle file and re-applied the superglue and they bonded . Just to make certain I stuck a square of 2mm thick plastic card across the join to reinforce the join. (1st photo)
I did a trial cut of one of the design pages using 0.5mm white card (2nd photo) mainly to check it fitted against the modified chass
I've been researching a Southern Railway diesel electric locomotive from the years immediately prior to nationalisation in 1948 and the subsequent birth of British Railways. The loco was designated D16/2, the original design was by O V Bulleid and was built at the Ashford works in Kent.
Only 3 were ever built, sadly they were all retired in the late 60s and cut up soon after, meaning none survived into preservation.
My search for information hasn't brought much up but fortunately I found an il
Well at last it's finished. After the paint had time to harden off I gave the transfer areas a coat of Kleer and then applied the transfers using HMRS sheet 15 BR blue for the inter-city arrows and the numbers too, then I applied a waterslide data panel from Replica Railways under each number and finally the overhead flash signs also waterslide, from Precision Decals, no connections etc.
This was followed by a spray coat of Humbrol satin varnish.
Once the varnish had hardened sufficiently I w
I've made some more progress on this model, one step forward and two steps back though.
I had almost finished this model and had it trapped between my knees while working on it and somehow it slipped out and fell nose first onto the tiled floor. This didn't do it any good, the cardboard sprung back into shape ok but the paint layer was badly cracked (see in third photo).
I made a fine file by gluing a strip of 400 grade wet and dry paper to a 5mm wide strip of plastic and fil
I've done a bit more of the detailing, my luck held with the headcode box alterations. I managed a second time to scribe the face and then remove it from the cutter, first marking the position of the cutting mat by sticking a bit of masking tape to the mat alongside one of the rollers, it was then just a matter of re-entering it using the tape as a guide, spot on! I've added some handrails, grab rails, buffer beam steps etc. I used 0.45mm brass wire for the rails, fixed with superglue into 0.6
I had a choice of three BR blue liveries all blue of course but they vary in the yellow panels. One type is with a small yellow end panel only, one has full yellow ends wrapping right round to include the cab door, but with black round the windscreens and thirdly the one I chose full yellow ends wrapping round but with a blue panel beneath the side windows and yellow round the front windows too.
I was a little concerned that if the doors were yellow and had to be rubbed down it would be near im
I've fitted the Shawplan etched brass window frames, these are a replacement for the ones on the Lima version which I gather are a little on the thick side, Some of you may have encountered this at some time!
Surprisingly these fitted almost exactly into the space between the corner stanchions, I guess the drawing I worked from must have been replicated from a Lima model because the chassis I've used is a Lima one and that fitted, or rather the sides cut from the drawing fitted the Lima chassis
The roof has been shaped now, the next stage was to make the box section at either end which I believe contains the horns and headlights. My original plan was to construct these as a box from flat card, that was just a fantasy, it didn't work well due to difficulties in shaping it to the profile of the roof, in 7mm? yes probably, but in 4mm just too fiddly? After some thought I decided to make a solid box and let it into the roof. This meant carving a chunk out of either end, so out with the sca
I've glued all the roof layers together now and started shaping the roof. I made up a new concave template as the previous convex one would have been quite useless. here's the new one
I started cutting the roof with a craft knife and the card cut almost like soft wood quite surprisingly, part of me was saying it was cardboard yet physically it was like carving wood, a strange feeling somehow.
The process of shaping the roof was a bit messy, producing a lot of dust and shavings.
I've finished cutting all the sides, side 2 was very easy, I brought up the file for side 1, copied and pasted one of the sides into a new document and then just deleted the openings that aren't on that side and added the extra 'window'. Then it was just a matter of duplicating it four times then saving it as a DXF file ready for the cutter.
The sides and ends, after cutting out, were then glued up, I cut two spacers by hand and stuck those in so the inside was now three compartments roughly eq
So that's the faffing around all done now down to making the model. Despite a long lay off from Inkscape I managed to produce a workable drawing and cut the first sides which were entirely wrong but proved I could produce something here's the result
I hadn't got the scale right it was too high and too short but eventualy it came back to me and I got the hang of altering the measurements and cut the first sides, 5 in total. I stuck these together to form a side 2.5mm thick together with
Some time ago I purchased a Silhouette Portrait cutter, up until now I haven't used it much. I started learning how to use Inkscape but due to house renovations and protracted periods back in Blighty I stopped my studies.
I'm now determined to get on with something and thought a Diesel might be a fairly uncomplicated project to begin with. I once did a cardboard model of a metro-vick, primarily to put into a small diorama for a competition so it was very basic as it was to create a replica o
phew! I've just finished digging my way out from 10 pages down the lists. well although a lot has been happening on the house renovation front, not a lot has happened as far as model making is concerned, but here is a brief update just to dust off the shelves so to speak.
In my last post you will maybe recall (or maybe not) I had designed and cut the parts for a covered wagon using plastic card cut in a Silhouette Portrait cutter which I had assembled and more or less awaited painting. I think
I've reverted to type with this project, maybe it's a case of 'old habits die hard' but I find it difficult to just dream up components and draw them up in Inkscape. What I've done is cut the parts by hand tried them for fit and then re-produced them in inkscape and ultimately as a Silhouette cutting file so now I have virtually a goods wagon kit ready to be cut and that will be the next stage, seeing if it all works and carrying out necessary modifications along the way.
One problem I've enco
I stumbled upon a very interesting thread here on RMweb a couple of weeks ago. The name of it was 'A guide to using the Silhouette Cameo cutter, by JCL. For those who don't know of these machines they're similar to an inkjet printer but instead of a print head they have a tiny blade which cuts designs out of a sheet of thin material which has been fed into it.
Primarily they're designed for cutting shapes out of thin card, vinyl, or paper for things like scrap booking etc, but some of the
In my recent blog about experimenting with different materials to produce roofs for coaches or covered vans you might recall I cut some blanks from first a Deodorant can and then a beer can. If you haven't read that blog I recommend you do so first.
If you remember I talked about producing a coach roof from several blanks, but first I had to dispose of the beer some way so I would have some empty cans.
Well I can now report that (hic) I have some, whoops!
I cut up the cans and laminated t