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Powsides/Slaters Private Owner wagons


Mikkel

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I wanted some Private Owners for Farthing, so have built a couple of Powsides kits, i.e. painted and pre-lettered Slaters kits. I opted for two Gloucester designs to RCH 1887 specifications, one a 5-plank side-door wagon, the other a 7-plank side- and end-door job. 

 

 

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I like the overall appearance, although TBH the small lettering isn’t quite up to current standards. Perhaps I was unlucky, they look fine on the website.

 

 

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The kits have blank interior sides, so the moulding pips were filed away and planking was indicated with a scriber.

 

 

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The instructions recommend joining all sides first, then mounting the floor inside. I struggled a bit with this, the floor wasn’t a perfect fit and the sides were lightly curved. Some dismantling and remedial work ensued, but I got there in the end.

 

 

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I used waisted pin-point bearings from MJT. Split spoke wheels on one wagon, and plain spokes for the other one because I ran out. Did some of these wagons eventually receive plain spoke wheels? Otherwise I’ll swop the erroneous set later.

 

 

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Some of the small lettering was a bit damaged or missing as the kits came. I touched it up as best I could. Some bits I simply painted over. I’d rather have absent lettering than odd lettering.

 

 

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The built-up wagons. 

 

 

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Having admired Dave’s lovely builds of the 7mm versions of these kits, I decided to indicate the interior ironwork as he has done. For this I simply used strips of Evergreen (painted darker after this shot).

 

 

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Good interior photos of these wagons are rare, so drawing on discussion by Stephen and other helpful RMwebbers I drew up the above sketch to guide my detailing of the interior. Please note that this is my own rough and ready rendering. There are various unknowns and no one has “signed off” on this sketch. Anyone interested should consult Stephen’s drawing and info here.

 

 

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Interior ironwork in place. The kit does include a hinge for the end door. On some wagon types this was positioned above the top plank, but in this case I fitted it just behind the top plank, based on this discussion.

 

 


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Archer’s rivet transfers at the fixed ends.

 

 

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Stephen pointed out the “big nuts” that appear on the ends of many Gloucester wagons, extending from the diagonal irons inside. Looking at photos they seem to have been present on both 5-, 6- and 7-planks as seen here left to right (obviously only at fixed ends). 

 

 

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The nuts don’t feature in the kit, so I added them. On the 7-planker I drilled holes and stuck in bits of brass. This proved tricky as it’s just by the corner joins, so on the 5-planker I Mek-Pak’ed on bits of plastic rod instead, as seen above.

 

 

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As usual: Liquid Gravity and 3mm Sprat & Winkles. I'm always amazed how much difference weight makes to the "feel" of a wagon. The couplings too: Ugly they may be, but they turn it into a working vehicle.

 

 

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Weathering the interior with pigments. The “Sinai Dust” seen here is courtesy of the late Mick Bonwick. Thank you, Mick.

 

 

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The Ayres wagon. Phil Parker uses a fibre glass brush to fade the lettering on printed RTR wagons. But these are transfers, so would tear (I did try).  Instead I lightly dry-brushed base colour over the lettering. Helps a bit, but not quite as effective. 

 

 

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C&G Ayres still exist as a well-known Reading removal company and former GWR cartage agent. This (very) close crop shows one of their removal containers at Reading ca. 1905. 

 

 

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But a search of the British Newspaper Archive showed that C&G Ayres were also at one time coal traders [Source: Reading Mercury Oxford Gazette March 9, 1918]. So I need to decide whether to designate the Ayres wagon for coal or furniture. I wonder if this explains the difference between the red Powsides livery and the green wagon livery that I normally associate the company with.

 

 

 

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The Weedon wagon. You can just make out the nuts on the ends, but they aren't really noticeable. The effort would arguably have been better spent detailing the brake gear!

 

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I had assumed the Weedon Brothers were mainly coal and coke merchants, but again newspapers and directories of the time offered further info. [Source: Kelly's Directory of Berks, Bucks & Oxon, 1911]. It seems that manure was also a key aspect of their business. The company features on the right in this directory clipping - amongst lime burners, loan offices, lunatic asylums and other essentials of progress!

 

 

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Though based at Goring, the Weedon Brothers had stores in a number of places, as illustrated in the above 1889 advert. I’m inclined to designate the wagon for manure rather than coal. I wonder what that would mean for the weathering? Richard's latest book on Wiltshire Private Owners is firmly on my wishlist.

 

 

 

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Anyway, the wagons are now running at Farthing. Here's No. 1897 knocking them about in the sidings behind the stables.

 

 

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Overall I've enjoyed the build. May have a go at applying my own transfers next time. 

 

 

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It's just a couple of plastic wagons of course, but I learnt a lot along the way. That's one of the great things about modelling, every build is an entry point to railway history.  Thanks to everyone for the help.

 

Edited by Mikkel

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1 hour ago, Stephen Freeman said:

Part of the problem is the method of production of the transfers, they are dry print. 

 

One can get good, sharp results with them. I am in two minds as to whether I prefer the "pre-printed" sides ("factory" (!) -applied might be a better term) or applying them myself. The former save a good deal of squinting and cursing but the main drawback is that POWSides don't gloss varnish the surface to which the transfer is to be applied, which I do, with, I think, better results at least in terms of adhesion. Plus one has a choice of numbers. 

 

Whilst waterslide decals may be technologically superior, no firm has yet to make a wide range available, so they remain the preserve of those with the requisite CAD skills. POWSides enable anyone willing to assemble a plastic wagon kit to build up a good (and with care, appropriate) fleet of PO wagons.

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4 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

One can get good, sharp results with them. I am in two minds as to whether I prefer the "pre-printed" sides ("factory" (!) -applied might be a better term) or applying them myself. The former save a good deal of squinting and cursing but the main drawback is that POWSides don't gloss varnish the surface to which the transfer is to be applied, which I do, with, I think, better results at least in terms of adhesion. Plus one has a choice of numbers. 

 

Whilst waterslide decals may be technologically superior, no firm has yet to make a wide range available, so they remain the preserve of those with the requisite CAD skills. POWSides enable anyone willing to assemble a plastic wagon kit to build up a good (and with care, appropriate) fleet of PO wagons.

Actually CAD skills needed are pretty minimal , just the need to type a few letters, more useful is the acquisition of a colour laser printer.

I see that I still have a set of 4mm scale POWSIDES dry print transfers for "Thomas Wrigley" of Ramsbottom, not sure they will still be usuable but I might have a go with them as I have family links with the area. I did make good use of the range in the 1990s.

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46 minutes ago, Stephen Freeman said:

Actually CAD skills needed are pretty minimal , just the need to type a few letters, more useful is the acquisition of a colour laser printer.

 

I would say that there is rather more to it than that - characters need to be re-shaped, since there is no typeface that I'm aware of that has the same proportions as signwritten lettering. One significant difference is that block type invariably has thinner horizontals than verticals, where signwritten lettering generally has equal width. The POWSides transfers are well-observed in this respect, as are the PO wagons from the major RTR manufacturers, but there are some PO wagons from the cottage industry end of the business where the use of a commercial typeface sticks out like a sore thumb.

 

Then there's the questions of spacing and shading.

 

I'm not afraid of this myself - I've quite a bit of experience with CorelDraw and am happy with converting type characters to objects and then manipulating them, or drawing lettering out from scratch - possibly the more satisfactory method. but I've yet to make the technological leap to printing transfers.

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19 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

printing transfers

There is still the problem of printing white on to clear transfer film.  I see that there are now some products which (claim) to enable this but a colour printer would be needed if both white letters (which are more or less the norm) and letter shading are both required.  I've been experimenting with home grown transfers - see "Thorpe's trial and error" on my Swan Hill blog -  but haven't fully researched the white laser printing. I'd be interested to learn if anyone has tried it and how they got on.

 

Kit PW

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1 hour ago, kitpw said:

There is still the problem of printing white on to clear transfer film.  I see that there are now some products which (claim) to enable this but a colour printer would be needed if both white letters (which are more or less the norm) and letter shading are both required.  I've been experimenting with home grown transfers - see "Thorpe's trial and error" on my Swan Hill blog -  but haven't fully researched the white laser printing. I'd be interested to learn if anyone has tried it and how they got on.

 

IIRC @Corbs and possibly @TurboSnail have done this. For myself, I'd be tempted apply a transfer in the body and shading colours over a white-painted base - a sort of negative transfer - as I have in the past done when hand-lettering.

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I had issues with clear transfer printer paper showing bad "silvering", so I tend to cheat these days and use white transfer paper. However, this means you have to get a very good colour match between the body colour and the ink colour, which is tricky. Does work well for black locos/wagons though!

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On 22/04/2022 at 12:30, Compound2632 said:

 

IIRC @Corbs and possibly @TurboSnail have done this. For myself, I'd be tempted apply a transfer in the body and shading colours over a white-painted base - a sort of negative transfer - as I have in the past done when hand-lettering.


Yes but I used a specific laser printer with a white toner roller. Upside is it is excellent for white decals (even more so that the decal film manufacturer has released an extra thin version), downside is it CAN do colour but the quality is not as good and the decal needs to be printed upside down, so you lose the adhesive layer.

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