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coombe junction - moorswater - how low can you go?...


bcnPete

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Good evening,

 

Further to Smokey Bacon Steve's request for more info on how I lowered the Bachfar 37, I have put together a quick step by step. There is another option that Ian of Mercig is undertaking which involves cutting the bogie sideframes off and relocating closer to the body as seen here

 

Before I start this method, I should just like to say that it was Steve Nicholls (Pixie) who first lowered his 37 last year, and he kindly shared his method with me so all credit is due to him for that :D

 

Step One

 

blogentry-3290-0-52189300-1297881530_thumb.jpg

 

Separate body and remove cab seats - These were glued so I just eased them gently back and they parted from the lugg - it will need to be trimmed and replaced at a later date...

 

Step Two

 

blogentry-3290-0-04463700-1297881541_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the 4 No windows to the internal sides - These just came away with a lever from the scalpel - 5 though plasticard or similiar will replace them at some point...On my first 37, I also removed the 4 vertical ribs on the body to locate it on the chassis, but I am not sure that is necessary...

 

Step Three

 

blogentry-3290-0-27738700-1297881560_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the PCB and cut a 2mm slot in the bottom corners, which will allow it to sit lower in the nose and thus let the body sit lower...

 

Step Four (optional)

 

blogentry-3290-0-80420200-1297881584_thumb.jpg

 

I removed the Rapido and NEM socket and replaced with a small rectangle of plasticard painted black...

 

Step Five

 

blogentry-3290-0-64625300-1297881597_thumb.jpg

 

The battery box/underslung equipment needs the small locating ribs removed and then small pieces of plasticard were added inside it and it was doublesided taped on the underside of the chassis to retain it.

 

That was about it really. Cab seats and internal windows need replacing sometime but it does allow the body to sit lower and you can determine the height that suits you by the amount of plasticard you insert in the battery box/underslung equipment. There still seems to be enough play to swivel the bogies without fouling the body but I guess it comes down to individuals layouts and tightness of curves.

 

I attach a couple of comparisons with the out of the box 37 and the lowered option.

 

blogentry-3290-0-96980800-1297881616_thumb.jpg

 

blogentry-3290-0-12238600-1297881633_thumb.jpg

 

I hope this is of some help...I now need to try and apply it to one of the 47's that first came out with the large gap between the bogies and body.

 

Pete

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Thanks Pete - I'm sure this will come in handy one day... but no immediate plans for a 37 here.

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Be sure to check the 47 carefully, Pete, they don't sit as low to the bogies as the contemporary EE types. Not saying the Farish couldn't be improved, but there's no point in going too far either.

Great improvement here, though. :)

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Thanks for this Pete, you make it look so straightforward ;)

 

One question (I'm sure they'll be more later when I actually get round to trying this myself) - how does the buffer height seem with the lowered body? It looks quite a significant drop on the last picture, so how does if compare with the wagons & other rolling stock?

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Thanks all for the comments.

 

Andy - Shame...I could just see a 37 hauling the latest Mk I's on your layout.

 

Bernard - Good point - Thanks for the heads up - I will have a search back on the forum and see how others tackled it.

 

Mark - Looks like the 66 made only a 'guest' appearance on the layout...I am sure it will return though.

 

Kris - Good point - OTTOMH I am not sure...but this evening I will give it a spin on my newly constructed 'Peco set track oval' that I run in any new locos on and I will report back on here - stay tuned.

 

Steve - Thanks + No problem - It's another good point and I will have to check, but I can't recall it looking mismatched because most of the rolling stock has had the wheels replaced with 2FS wheels and usually this seems to adjust the way they sit too.

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Kris - Just run 37142 on my small test circuit but it didn't like it at all.

 

Mind you, it's got 2FS reprofiled wheels and it is running on Peco set track Code 80 with 9" curves :blink:

 

So I tried 37207, which has been lowered but still has its N wheels at present....and it managed it fine.

 

Are we soon to see a 37 gracing the curves of Avonwick? :P

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Found a good comparative shot of the 47 and 37 together from a low level, showing how different the body/bogie relationship is between the two classes. Hope it's useful Link

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37's on Avonwick, sacrilege, that would be like seeing a class 50 there, whoops tongue.gif

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Just got my 'back issue' copy of the Jan 2011 BRM magazine and the article detailing the work done on the 37's looks very good...especially the marker dot headcode...will have to experiment with that - am surprised that will all the nice detailing work undertaken on them, they haven't been lowered though...I think that would finish them off rather nicely...

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<BR>Hi Pete,<BR><BR> Thanks for the lowering tips. I lowered both of my 37s last night. I was surprised how quickly I was able to do it. However, what did you do to the cab detail to allow it to be replaced and still have a lowered body?<BR><BR>David

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Hi David,

 

Glad it was of some use...if you mean the cab seats etc, I haven't done that bit yet as I was thinking of putting a driver in etc.

 

However, I was assuming that a little bit of trimming off the top and bottom of it may be required or perhaps remove the lug in the roof as well? Some all round fettling perhaps...once I have weathered mine, you probably won't get to see much through the windows anyway!

 

Pete

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