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Moving to P4 (Post 13 (Converting the Heljan Class 35 'Hymek'))

Knuckles

Entry posted by Knuckles

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Apparently known to being one of the easiest 00 conversions to P4 known to mankind, I thought I'd give it a go.

Conclusion, MEGA easy, however, I had some difficulties that you are unlikely to have, thus I'll post them first.

 

 

Right' date=' I've just spent 3 angry hours F****** about with it, dropping the wheels in wasn't much of a problem, however, when I applied power the wheels span and stopped, from then on was just a vibrating 'brrrrrrrr' So after lots of wheel faffing and bogey gear faffing I spent about 10 minutes trying to pry the body off, scared I was going to ###### it.

Is this REALLY nessasary?

[img']http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k112/sparkshot/PIC_2904.jpg[/img]

I don't have 16 hands, trying to unclip everything and pull everything all at the same time is a really un userfriendly design.

ok so I'm inside... great, motor, flywheel, drive shaft, universal joint, virticle gearbox, horizontal gear box, on both sides. Cue an hour or 2 of no progress.

Motor/flywheels were just 'brrrrring' side to side as if obstruction but could never find where it was, now when I test power there is just a quiet 'buur' with hardly any noise or movement at all.

I've removed wheels and put old ones back in and all sorts but no different.

Really unhappy and %$^&*() now cus I've got to find someone who knows what they are doing and repair it. Easy conversion may arse! Would have been if the model didn't decide to die on me.

before all that bother I had a short circuit that I didn't realise until the controller passsed out, I had a hammer accross the test track at the far end. MONG, so after that I changed controllers but loco was still almost dead, probably too hot. After the above quote the next day I went to my local Model Railway Club in Coventry and one of the guys had a look at it for me. His controller worked after a few tweaks and he deduced that I possibly hadn't put the wheels on the correct way because the 00 wheels have an insulated collar/washer on one side, I put it back together and it ran on the layout great. Anyway, content that it was me being thick I went home feeling better only to find that upon me testing it on my controller it was still 'Brrrring' again and doing not much. Perplexed at this I changed my controller back to the original one (that must have recovered) and wheeeynz! It was working! I had to muck about removing the bogey sides repeatedly becasue when you put them on they push the contacts out of position so when adjusting the pick-ups make sure you overdo them slightly to compensate. Now, awkwardness and most pitfalls aside I'll present the conversion.

This is the standard modul upturned with 00 wheels and bogey keeper plate in place.

PIC_2878.jpg

This is a P4 Ultrascale wheel plonked for comparison purposes.

PIC_2880.jpg

I wasn't sure how to get the keeper plate off, hence all the scratch damage and abuse. The sheet with the model was useless and so was my internet serches. Rather than pinching what looks like sprung tabs you just have to literally force it off from underneith and not break it - great.

PIC_2883.jpg

Ignore the stray contact pick-up, lots of gears inside!

PIC_2889.jpg

This wheel is not in properly, if you look at the collars at each side of the axle they are too close in to properly fit into the 'U' shaped 'half pipe' axle holder/bush thingy. (I'm brilliant at describing things arn't I!?) this was only on 2 wheels and to sure it I gently filed a smidge off the half pipe things, wasn't complicated, just enough to shave about 0.3 of a mm or so. (rough guess) After which they fit in perfectly. Again, this was only on a couple. I did check the back to backs with a Exactoscale block and the wheelset was a tad tight, I eased it out but still had to trim the bogey body.

PIC_2893.jpg

00 wheels removed and contacts bent out a bit (refer to the above problem, bend them more than nessasary for the boget sides that pull away move them when replaced)

PIC_2899.jpg

P4 wheels literally 'dropped in', they don't call them drop in wheel sets for nothing! And after replace the keeper plate by pushing at various angles. Job done, I tested it on my bit of stray C&L track it ran perfect, went round a curve I bent that must have been no more than 15 or so inches radius, I kid you not.

PIC_2898.jpg

 

Hope that's helped somebody. :)

Apart from my problems that you shouldn't have had it was well easy. First P4 conversion successfull. [Tick]

;)

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Allegheny1600

Hi Knuckles,

Well done, I'm sure the next one will be easier for you!

I do have one bit of advice for you, though.

Chopped and slightly sharpened coffee stirrers!

From the likes of maccy D's, Costa, etc!

I usually cut them into halves or quarters with wire cutters(!), then make the cut end much thinner so it's like a fine screwdriver - use these when prising bodies off - you don't damage paintwork or plastic.

Cheers,

John E.

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Mike G

Pointwork, vans, diesel conversions...that's quiet a start. Are you a diesel enthusiast? or do you trip over to the dark and dirty side. I really enjoy your write ups, honest and pull no punches.

 

cheers

 

Mike

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Horsetan

I did a Heljan Hymek conversion months ago using the Alan Gibson rewheel set. Almost as easy as Ultrascale:

 

1. Remove "OO" wheelsets. Remove wheels from axles.

2. Knock out final drive gears from OO axles.

3. Wang the AG P4 axles through the gears, so each gear sits centrally.

4. Mount and gauge the P4 wheels on the axles.

5. Pull out pickups to reach further out.

6. Insert completed P4 wheelsets back into place vacated by OO wheelsets.

 

Job done.

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Knuckles

Thanks guys. :) I'll try to remember the coffee sturers, I didn't have any hand and in my haste just grabbed what was with me. I didn't know Alan Gibson did a conversion set. With my wagon that's floating in these posts I need to get the right buffers before I continue but you'll no doubt see a follow up sometime.

 

To Mike G; I'm predominantly a greasy a kettle fan, but I do like a good selection of diesels, especially earlier type ones. That said the class 50's and 66's I like and they arn't exactly early

 

I really enjoy your write ups, honest and pull no punches.
Thanks indeed. :) That means a lot to me. I have conflicting writing styles because I either describe things in long ambigious ways or I'll just be blunter than a crap sword that's been put into a machine and ran through cardboard 247 for about 4 months

 

You may notice a bunch of typo's and spelling mistakes. This is because I type quick then post without checking, I sometimes edit things but wheeooooo.

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Captain Kernow
  • RMweb Gold

Completely share your frustration about getting loco bodies off, Knuckes. I don't know of any modern R-T-R diesel that doesn't bring on major palpitations and trauma even thinking about the procedure. You then need a complete team of medical staff on hand to actually do it (either to help you hold all the sticks and screwdrivers, or to adminster medical assistance to yourself when it finally gets to you.....!!)

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Knuckles

Yup, was constantly fearing I'd snap it. using files as tyre levers isn't brilliant at all!

 

I just looked at your profile, didn't realise it was you! :D I messaged you on Scaleforum, in the Dapol class 22 conversion bit, I left you a message an hour or 3 ago.

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Jon020

Well done for the progress Knuckles... a new Avatar too! Last time I removed a loco body (Bach 47) I managed to tear the ends of my nails away from both of my thumbs... and that hurt... blood bruising lasted a week... I always use tools now. A good entry that... I started with these u/scales and still use them, although I will try some gibsons soon - mainly because u/scale wont do a conversion for the bach 105 Craven.

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Knuckles

Thanks Jon020. :)

 

If you want to see that avatar properly I reccomend this link:...

http://www.scalefour...=1690&start=175

 

:D Weeeeyyl, I was in a good mood wasn't I!

 

Once I've finished that cattle wagon I'm doing, I want to convert another truck, but this time I want to use Exactoscale's sprung wagon chassis. I have a LOT of their wheels and axles so it makes sence to get used to them, problem is the PDF ive been reading for the instructions scares the hell out of me.

 

I like the unit's I've been using for that cattle wagon but they only do pin point axles. ah well. Will have to have a play, I guess it takes time to find whats best. I think the only disadcantage of using them is you have two seperate units so getting them square is a bit of a pain. Was for me anyway. Do you glue them? I used screws as you could see but can't do that on a 5 planker. Also I brought a few Cambrian wagons at the Wakefield S4 Exhabition on Sunday because the crisp mouldings and cheap price made me drool. Lack of wheels and couplings is fine as I want to use my own anyway, thus I can see Cambrian becoming a favorite very quickely. (Not made one yet)

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Departmental

Thanks for the 'story' on your conversion of the Hymek to P4. having read it and got an Ultrascale conversion kit I have successfully converted my Hymek to P4. I just sat the loco upside down in a cradle; gently inserted a small screwdriver blade into the ends of the gear train covers and prised them off. The first one sprang off and flew across the workshop, the second one was treated a little more gently and just unclipped into my hand. Original wheels out, contact strips bent out  and then the new wheel sets dropped in, checked the contact strips were touching the wheel backs and the gear train covers replaced.  Put on test track and power supplied. Result, slow crawl ; loco took 2 minutes to cover a yard of track with no sticking, just a healthy slow crawl. Total conversion time 15 minutes.This was my first conversion attempt, hope other locos will be as easy!

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