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SForrest10

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  1. Exactly the same problem here. I had a look through the site and no mention of RMWeb gold. It was there previously but has disappeared. Steven
  2. Mine blew up because one of the connector pins on the underside made contact with the track while it was on. Not sure if this is still an issue on the latest versions. This is the connector that plugs into the addon module. Wish id notice earlier and i could of put some tape across.
  3. It says Cg&Co on the Companies house update.
  4. This video explains what the R means. Steven
  5. Do they not sell tartan paint in 00 gauge! I'll get my coat...
  6. If running DCC could you give the cars separate addresses and then run as a consist. Then the lights would be independent for each car.
  7. I'd like to see the marker light and Day running light active with F0, but have a separate function that switches over to the night light. If this is not possible could you put the solder pad on the PCB for the night light as it makes it easier no modify :-) I agree having the tail lights on a separate switch would be good, as you would only want the tail lights active on the trailing car too when in multiple. Steven
  8. As you have spotted it is the wrong way round, but nothing was glued in or pinned down. This was just a mock-up of how everything would sit and clearance checks. I made a few alterations to the bogie position etc after this.
  9. You can see how the Warship chassis compares to the Ringfield on the pictures below. The wheel alignment looks much worse on these camera shots than it does in reality. I'd totally forgotten that they do not line up perfectly until this thread, and things like this usually bother me. The suspension parts where glued to the bogie after these shots where taken.
  10. Thats correct, it has to be shortened by 14mm to get the correct spacing for the 91. The drive shafts also need to be shortened and the motor re-positioned. The only downside to this modification is the bogie wheel spacing is too short by 1.5mm, but it's not noticeable once on the track
  11. I'm glad to hear from others reviving this model. Its amazing to see what a difference a few changes can make, also the parts are relatively inexpensive to pick up too. When buying more carriages be careful that you get the right color of blue if you are going GNER pre mallard livery. You can tell which is the later blue by the all metal wheels compared to the part plastic on the earlier color. Of course there is always the odd exception to this. I'm currently modeling the class 89 set and have parts for a Mallard set, which will all be used on my ECML layout once complete/started. Ill get some pictures of the coupling areas and cutouts too.
  12. Also have a look at the Keen systems parts. http://www.keen-systems.com/page3.html I used his carriage ends and skirts with the keen system close coupling mech. This allows room for some Viessmann 2 pole electric coupling, and possibly some 4 pole at a push. Two sound encoders with sound from the great Legomanbiffo where also fitted, that alternate horns and other sound effect, depending on the direction of travel. If you have a look at the descriptions in my youtube videos it explains what i did when i built mine. http://youtu.be/71s3BsOOz-c If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.
  13. No problem, thanks for the offer. I may need to build 2 power cars yet to get it upto 160mph+, scale speed of course
  14. Impressive work with the APT power car. That is just what I had in mind for my setup, thus is of great assistance. I've been building mine for over 2 years now. It started out as an 8 car set with carriage lighting +DCC control, but has grown to full size.
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