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dpgibbons

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  1. What is Paul's usual email response time at the S7 stores please? I sent an order in a week ago and I'm wondering how soon to follow up.
  2. Production to start in December - https://www.facebook.com/Lionheart-Trains-340112329467714/ They say only post 1930s versions will be produced, but the 1920s LHT exclusive is still listed.
  3. I thought the factory sound-set came from Paul Chetter, in which case it should be good. If you are looking elsewhere it's worth checking the enhanced speaker + stay-alive option from YouChoos here.
  4. Apologies for the bump but this seems the most appropriate thread to ask a few questions on the build. Namely - any thoughts please about how much ballast is needed and if so where to put it (inside the tanks, I'm thinking) and how to fit DCC. A big stay-alive should be no problem, stuffed loose along with the decoder into the boiler, but I'm wondering if anyone has fitted sound.
  5. More info on the thread here. Unfortunately NG Trains/EDM Models appear to have discontinued their Fowler sound offering, but the soundset may still be available from Paul Chetter aka pauliebanger. Their conversion involved some internal mods to get sound and a stay-alive in.
  6. Depends if you want a factory fresh vehicle - GWR white roofs quickly turned to grey due to grime and oxidation of the lead pigment.
  7. I now have David Nicholson's MRJ trackbuilding article referred to above, and it's the best guide I've seen to building 7mm pointwork. Is the gauge above what he refers to as a MINT gauge? Some other things from his article I'm unclear about: - Does CMHR underlay foam go by another name in the trade? It's not listed under that description in the S7 shop or by the website he recommends - David recommends S7 walnut sleepers but does not offer a source for walnut crossing timbers
  8. Apologies for bumping this, but could somebody please confirm the hex key needed for the retaining screws on Slater's 7mm outside crank axles with square ends (to fit a Buffalo). Their X78003 0.89mm A/F key looks about the right size.
  9. I'm confident that Bridport would never have required a heavyweight 6W brake van, not even down Bincombe bank! Which raises the question of how Bridport goods traffic was routed - did it run to Weymouth for sorting, or directly to and from Westbury?
  10. Just bumping this to say that the Zero Zephyr range has been taken over by CSP Models.
  11. My idea was to put the item on a grate above a drip tray and give it a gentle baking in an oven at say 220 degrees. That would remove any risk of overheating the metal and allow all the solder to drip away, with the mess contained below. A little work with the tongs would be required to keep flat surfaces vertical. However nobody has suggested an oven, so are there are unforeseen risks of pollution and marital strife?
  12. I have now refitted the bearings using the chassis jig. This required some filing, which rather confirms that the original axle alignment was out of true. The chassis rolls a little stiffly but with rods fitted on one side there's no binding. Once I get hold of a 1.75mm Allen key to put the rods on the other side I'll know if all is well. I've also realised that the kit provides the option to use the outer hornblocks as bearings so that's the new Plan B.
  13. Any tips please on how to put a smooth bend into rail? Curved switch rails (in 7mm) are my particular issue. I've seen a couple of rail bending jigs from the USA but nothing from the UK.
  14. Fortunately the chassis looks straight and any visual nasties will be hidden by the outside frames (it's a GWR Buffalo). As I'm fairly new to this, scratch building a replacement would be Plan Z.
  15. So far so good. I have unsoldered the bearings and relocated them on the jig using the coupling rods and the long pins. The chassis is a fold-up so I'm trusting it will be horizontally square. Just need to make sure everything else is aligned before resoldering.
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