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  • Location
    West Sussex UK
  • Interests
    You will be surprised to know 'Model Trains' :)

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  1. Hi, I feel your motor failures will be as a direct result of the HM2000. This uses PWM and a small amount of feedback that will on long runs overheat the motors and cause issues. It can also fry electronic components. The very best option for you would be a Morley 4 track control crawler, really flexible with hand held units and point CDU built in. The crawler option means you can run locos at a crawl. Of course there is the Gaugemaster versions, higher cost but backed by a lifetime warranty. None of these controllers will harm your motors or
  2. Late to this party but I recently purchased a poor running 2004 Princess, she goes like a dream now. Also have two streamlined ones, iconic locos.
  3. Right, drawing on everything else I have worked out the following: So, for 121.92cm (or 4 feet) divide 207.2727 by time in seconds = MPH scaled. Phew! got there (based upon scale 0.013157894736842 1/76th as decimal. 30480cm (1000 feet) (1000 real feet = 401.0526315789 cm scaled) 30480 X 0.013157894736842 = 401.0526315789 cm 401.0526315789 cm is scale 1000 feet or 30480cm)
  4. There seems to be as many ways of doing this as members in the forum! There must be a set formula taking the knowns of scale 1/76th distance and time in seconds. LOL I am more confused than when I started. Easily done I guess
  5. Good morning. An internet search produces many confusing offerings so I thought I'd ask the knowlagebile folk here. I want to calculate the speed of my OO gauge trains over say 24 inches of track. I get that speed= Speed = distance divided by time. So if my train takes 10 seconds to travel 24 inches that would be 24/10 = 2.4 Which I think is real world speed? Lost after this. Many thanks
  6. Hi What is the formula behind this calculator please? Trying to work out speed over 609.6mm Many thanks Mike
  7. Hi guys Just been restoring this lovely loco but have become stuck with the movement of the crosshead one side. It does not bind now but still makes an annoying pop as it runs. Please have a look and offer your thoughts?
  8. mikesndbs


    Where did you get the vans from please?
  9. A very interesting write up. Does not appear to consider the effect of cleaning the track with non polar solvents that tends to prevent oxidation. While I certainly don't have the professional training to dispute the section about plastic wheels breaking down and leaving deposits behind, I have to say I am surprised! I have plastic wheel sets that are many decades old and still look like they did when new, also would not the plastic wheel pick up dirt far faster than it wore down? and would not that dirt form a covering preventing the plastic wearing down? F
  10. Hi guys, so a good conclusion to my problems, here is what I did If anyone has any other comments about the valve gear I'd be most interested.
  11. Hi Philip Ah yes Electrolube is still out there, it is a very, very effective light lubricator and conductivity enhancer and used in the right places (like Dapol's terrible class 73 pickups) its very good. However it is utterly pervasive and will always get where it should not be so great care has to be used. I run mostly metal wheels and it is these that are getting the build up. Cheers
  12. Guys, your findings would be most appreciated? Those who have switched from IPA to a non-polar cleaner recently. Do you find your unpowered wheels seem to get dirtier more quickly? My track is certainly cleaner for much longer, but I am seeing what I think is a bigger build up of crud on wheels. Thanks
  13. Question is are they all like mine or are some correct, can anyone else post similar photos of theirs?
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