AlfaZagato

Are you working from a specific diagram?

Hatton's still has a not-insubstantial amount of 90's era hoppers. What would be entailed to backdate them to original condition?

3D transfers are neat. I'm happy they're more than just a Tamiya thing.

Ope, sorry.

I thought this looked small. Have you had any trouble with the Terrier? Mine up and died a couple of years ago.

@Gordon A Iron is a 40w iron. The solder I was using melts at 188 C. I also have 183 C and 217 C solder. @PenrithBeacon I will try the tacking method.

Last two questions I can't answer. I don't remember the wattage off of the top of my head. Solder I've found here stateside isn't sold by temp - only by composition. I was trying with 60/40 rosin core. I have some that is high silver, some I think is high tin, and some of what my plumber friend called 50/50. By some, I mean a one pound reel.

I've got a variable stick set at about 350 C. Flux is Radio Shack rosin flux paste. I don't know if flux can go 'off,' but I've had luck with smaller jobs with the flux. I'll try at 400-450 next time I pick up the iron. Stupid question, though. Will the iron need to sit a bit between joints?

No fault on Jidenco, but man am I bad at this soldering thing. Real happy I didn't dive straight into the 3F. So; Old kit, methinks. I have option B, the 12t 1-planker. I also don't have wheels for it. I fussed with it some years ago, when I first picked up the $10 stick-iron from Radio Shack. Back when there were Radio Shacks. The mess on the bottom is from back then. Trying to tin the thing. Never got it quite clean. I'm a little better equipped now, though I guess 180-grit sandpaper isn't enough. This is what I ended up with at the end of the night; I also really don't have good clamps for this. Smallest clamps I have with any grip are 2". Ended up bending the body at one point. I also couldn't get the solder to flow. I may have been generous with the flux. I was under the impression that was right, though. I don't know. I need to order one of those scratch-pens. George Dent suggests such a thing in his guides, and I've found myself agreeing with his methods before.

Sorry for the lack of an entry last week. I ended up at a buddy's house, had much of a strong beer. Then Independence Day. In the meantime, I did finish the giant robot. At least, I finished building it; This one I do plan on painting. I'm thinking flat or satin black with white accents. I'll also need to make some grayscaled versions of the markings. I don't like the colors they're in now. If you don't pay attention to my other content, this past week was mostly trains. I solder leads to my Marklin K track, finally. Picked up acid flux to solder the stainless rails. I also took the time to solder power drops for my shoebox layout; These were infinitely cleaner. This sort of thing I've done before. I had ordered and received one of the N20 motors y'all have been writing about, along with 3D printed gears. First look was to see if it would fit in the Y8 I acquired some years ago; Current consensus is no, but I think I can fiddle it in. Next, I dragged out the Nu-Cast 3F I've had for equally long; This was a very easy fit. I just need to ream out the gear a bit more for the axle. I can just about the motor entirely below the footplate. OO gauge, mind you. Finally, tonight, as I had the soldering iron more-or-less out, I tried fussing with an old Jidenco kit I had picked up. I made a mess of it; I'm fairly certain I'm still not properly equipped. I'll need to work on that. Next week, then?

I would try to find a period shot of one loaded. Habits will have changed in 80 years, but I couldn't say which way. Maybe the GWR always loaded just below the edge? Maybe they loaded like that one 9F driver who took two passes under the coaling stage?

When I bought the engine, it had an open-armature two-pole motor with a worm, but no spur for the axle. The motor-mount was collared very close to the axle, so I could never suss out what gear I needed.

I've finally revisited this project. I picked up one of the N20 motors this...I think y'all say it 'parish'... have been adopting since Mashima went under. Looks like it should be an easy fit. The gears I purchased were 3D printed items. I think the axles I have here are outsized, though. Even after rudimentary reaming with a 1/8" bit chucked in my power drill, the gear was uncomfortably tight. I think I can get the motor angled nice and low, into the frames. I think I'll try to solder some bits of the frame together at this point, too. I feel more confident.

I bought an N20 motor a couple of weeks ago, along with a pair of 3D printed gears to fit 1/8" axles & the N20. My original thought was to fit it to this small LNER tank I picked up at an estate sale; While the motor would probably fit, it won't fit between the frames. Which means needs to angle into the boiler. Which hasn't enough space. Playing around with the brass chassis, I think it was made undersized. The chassis will 'walk' on my test plank. I need to see if I can spread the frames some. Hopefully, if I can drop the motor into the frame, this'll all work. I might use the N20 on another project, though.

I added feed drops. I have a drop off of the entrance curve, and then a drop between each piece of track on each spur. I soldered the drops across the joint, above the fishplates. I've also fitted insulated joiners between each spur and the switch, and cut the circuit across the frogs. I don't plan on fitting such a small layout with DCC. I'm not entirely ashamed of the soldering, either. I need to do more. Next, I need to drill holes for the feeds, along with rout channels underneath the baseboard to accommodate the feeds. I should probably also figure out how I'm actually wiring this. That might be important.

Look up one of the n20 motors. Tiny and powerful. Cheap, too. I picked mine up for $7.

A History of GWR Goods Wagons does not directly say in reference to any P diagram. In regards to iron-bodied N(coal/mineral) and O(general merchandise opens,) though, special mention is made of an O-diagram having wood floors as a special case. I'd wager, then, an iron P-diagram would be iron-floored.

Given the age and name of the company, I'd imagine anything GWR from Cambrian is going to be an older tooling.

As you're in the industry, has there been any discussion with someone like High-Level about producing a bevel set for the N20 at a commercial level? I'd imagine it would be a bit more expensive than the bag-o-gears that need cutting and boring to work right, but cheaper than the 3D prints.

Nice booth, I have one. Folds up if you need it. The vent is a lifesaver. I can just about not worry about a ventilator mask now. Almost.

You're designing this to fit the Oxford Rail chassis, right? Why not use the Oxford Rail roof, as well?

So, two weeks & 156 track links in, I realize I have the wrong hafltrack; What I have here is a Sd. Kfz. 250/8 Neu. What I needed was a Sd. Kfz. 250/8 or the like. The hull is wrong, noticeably so. Should feature a peak about midway down the crew area. I'm really annoyed as I spent much time fiddling to get the tracks assembled. I'll have to keep an eye out for the correct 250 from Dragon, so I can use these tracks I've already finished. I started building another giant robot; This thing is called the Vigna Ghina II. Suit did not appear on screen, though the kit is a regular release. I don't get Bandai sometimes. This Gunpla I will probably repaint. I'm thinking black with white accents. Finally, I messed around with an already built kit; Yes, I need to dust. These smaller (1/144 vs 1/100, or about 3-4" tall) Gunpla kits have common arm and backpack fittings, at least mostly since 2015. So, I was able to strap a couple more guns to the Guncannon. Still not enough gun. I should paint soon. We'll see.

Should make it a 2-8-4

How about a triangle in a coal mine using an underslung single?

Theses are thankfully not nearly as bad as Sherman tracks. If I'm careful, I should be able to leave these workable once assembled.