Mick Bonwick

I don't know about emoticons, but I know where to lay my hands on a sub-machine gun.

Inspired choice of sheds buildings, that man.

Barking. Absolutely barking.

Interesting that you've used two primers. Did you consider it necessary to use the Vallejo as well as the Halfords one? Splendid work, Chris, whatever your answer. The results you get with your transfers is inspiring, and I will be needing to use something like that for some number plates soon. Sort of square and small enough to go on a front wing - you know the sort of thing.

Many thanks to all of you who took the trouble to answer my question. My indecision has had an unanticipated result. The domestic vacuum cleaner has developed a fault in its old age that renders it unsuitable for its intended purpose. Because I don't need a vacuum cleaner for cleaning floors and carpets, it will work perfectly for picking up unwanted and excessive scenery components. Modelling budget still sound. Domestic budget needs some attention.

I agree with @ian in that the choice for me would depend on the reason for using the photograph, as that is what railway photographs mean to me. If I want to see the whole railway scene to check on a particular aspect for my model then my choice would be the first one. If I was more interested in detail as if for building a model or weathering it, then my choice would not be the first one. If it's a photograph of Little Muddle then it doesn't matter what shape, colour or content.

That worked so well that I was tempted to strip a couple more. These used to be English China Clays and British Railways liveried SWB versions. I don't yet know what they'll end up looking like, mind you. The lack of thick paint reveals much in the way of detail.

I haven't found it to be a problem. It is a little stiff afterwards, though.

I tend to agree with that approach, but warn that you will need to cater for possible excessive throw. The supplied wire handles that admirably because of its flexibility and the adjustable pivot contributes as well. If you can rig up adjusters that are easily reachable (!) that would do the trick.

There is certainly humour in abundance and many contributions. Whether it's wonky chimneys or nudged canopies, there is no escaping the dreaded thread drift if certain personalities become involved in one's threads. I've come to realise that even if you start your own thread it is onle a very short time before it becomes everybody else's. Resistance is fertile.

Yes. What you may have to do is replace the Cobalt operating wire with something a little beefier. The supplied one might just simply bend rather than work successfully against the combined resistance.

I don't expect to ever finish my layout. There are so many things that distract me from ballasting! From looking at the unfinished examples of your work, George, I can see why you chose the Pendon method of making buildings. Fantastic!

I don't mean to be unhelpful, but I think you need to start wih a photograph of the real thing.

Looks like I'll be busy browsing the Interweb for a while . . . . .

I prefer the first one because you can see more of the scenery.

A Tractor!

Person.

It would certainly smell nicer. Oh!

I was amazed that it only took 5 minutes to reach this stage. I knew that Nitromors was good stuff, having used it on full size door and window frames, but the speed at which it did this small **** ***** still surprised me. Must remember to keep it well away from everything else!

Is that a familiar shape in that dish?

I think it's pretty darned good! See? I can understate things as well. I think that you have done an excellent job, Al, and you are to be commended to the highest RMweb authority for this result. Some way back you referred to yourself as a modeller. I think that is wrong. You should have used the term 'model maker.'

I found some of this in the garage, so I need to think of something to do with it.

Anticipation!

Thanks, Rob. These effects are not that difficult to achieve. What is require is an understanding of the materials you're working with and perception of the way the real thing works. In this case, I had established that where the tractor worked on muddy ground a lot of it had stuck to the wheel and tyre, but had subsequently been worn off (tyre strakes) or fallen off in dried lumps (wheel centres). Knowing how pigments and fixers work with each other it was then a case of applying the right quantities and colours in the right places. There is a bit more about using weathering powders here: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/entry/21469-a-land-rover-series-1-109-according-to-oxford-diecast-introduction/ For the Land Rover I used white spirit as the fixer for the pigment, but time has revealed that it can dry up too much and eventually flake off. If the model is only to be displayed then this would not be a problem, but if it is to be 'played with' then the fixer is a better bet.

Thank you, Mark, very kind of you.