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Fabulous. So much more like engineering than mine!

Glad to see you are trying it. You seem to be doing very well indeed.

Brilliant, Dave. Well done, Graham

I was a student in the Department of Town and Regional Planning at Sheffield University in 1968 when 'Jimmy' James joined us as Professor from his job as Chief Planner at the Dept of the Environment. He was a great enthusiast of the environment of Britain.

Thanks for this exciting tutorial, Jason. I am trying to use your process to make a Fox bogie for Caledonian stock. In Inkscape, when I select all outside edges plus sprues and click path-union, they do not become one mass but retain dividing lines. I am also finding that the edge curves are then represented with a chord line across from one end to the other even though they have been drawn using 'edit path through nodes rather than as a quarter circle. Please can anyone advise on what I am doing wrong? Thanks, Graham

Here it is but I am shocked by the imperfections shown in the photo! It still needs final finishing and painting but, now I've seen the bumps, more wet and dry will be employed! The chimney is straight - it's a close-up photo issue. I think the cab sides have been a reasonable modification. Best wishes, Graham

Hi Folks, Sorry to dredge this up from such a long time ago. I recently bought a DJH Jumbo kit from a guy who was obviously selling off unbuilt kits that others could use better than he. I found it quite reasonable to assemble, certainly easier than my BEC 700 conversion. On the engine, apart from the splashers being too narrow, the only real black mark I found was the cab. The side shape seems to have been squashed below the waist and elongated above. I made some new ones out of brass. On the original all white-metal cab, the roof sat up there like a fascinator at a wedding. Once I'd made the cab sides, for which the Crassoc drawing was essential, I filed the edge of the roof down and it fitted fine. The tender was another matter, though. Three hands and a degree in juggling seem to be essential but it did all fit together eventually, and filler helped! Maybe I haven't any experience of really good loco kits yet so am easily pleased! Best wishes, Graham

Surely not! Graham

Stunning work. Tell us about the wagon turntables, please. Graham

This making 'two for each stage' has hit a high (or is it low?) point. I have been trying to make the rear bogie wheel for the Dundee Bogie as part of the fixed chassis and the front one as a pony wheel so that the cylinder didn't get in the way of the front wheels' movement. I made a mini fixed chassis for the rear bogie wheel but it wasn't a success. So, I will have to make a new set of chassis 'sides' with the rear bogie as a front fixed wheel and find a better way of hanging the cylinders. I may move away from the Oxford Radial tank cylinders and make new ones in metal using a Markway crosshead set and screwing the cylinders to the chassis sides. It's a bit of an engineering challenge for me, though. It's been put away carefully but I'm going to pause until I feel up to it. Meanwhile, the trackwork beckons. Best wishes, Graham

Thanks for this very helpful thread, Richard. I'm just assembling one but have found that the crossbeam does not reach the top of the side slots when the central shaft is in place. Does this matter? Did your do the same? Best wishes, Graham

HI, Yes, well spotted. The wheels still have to be taken off for painting, etc., so I am overlooking it for now. The crankpin nut is a bit of a beast to get back on so I am leaving it until then. Graham

I've given my Dundee Bogie a buzz with primer which shows up the blemishes but lt brings it together for the first time. There is strange whitening where the filler is and round the smokebox/boiler join. I'm puzzled about the latter as there is no fastening there, it's just a push join. The splasher tops are an obvious challenge. They are plasticard to avoid shorting and needed filler adding. The dummy cylinder top above the footplate shows plasticard layers coming apart. I'll be getting the wet and dry out now. Best wishes, all. Graham

Thanks for all the helpful discussion. I have just used a Smith's sheet crumpled, then soaked in water and folded round a balsa load on the wagon. I then wrap the whole in cling film 'vertically' over the top and bottom and then 'horizontally' with a narrow strip to push the folded ends into place. Left overnight, they can be unwrapped, eased off and glued back to the load and to the wagon sides and ends. Simples! Regards to all, Graham

I applied weathering at different intensities to each side yesterday, mainly reflecting the coal dust that must have surrounded and overwhelmed these wagons. Here is the original (in the centre with added grime) and one I made earlier on the right. The John Watson Ltd awaits a coupling but I have removed the excrescence designed to hold the original coupling. It also needs a crossing on the T of "Ltd" on one side but I'll dot it in with white paint and then add grime to it. I have read many of the rather negative posts on POWsides transfers, on various chat sites, but I must admit I'm hooked. If I could afford it, I would buy up these lovely little Oxford wagons (usual disclaimer) and have whole trains using the 18 or so Scottish wagon sides they produce. Thanks for all the 'likes' chaps. Best wishes, Graham