5BarVT

So it has 8 connectors? Paul.

Yes and no (I think)! The diagram for your switches looks like a single pole switch with connectors for an LED - would need to see from the back to be sure. Assuming they are only single pole then:- Can you wire it like the “standard switch”? No. Can you use it to drive a tortoise? Yes. You just need (a) differently configured power supply/supplies. In the tortoise wiring instructions (http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/ins/800-6000ins.pdf ) the “standard” switch is Diagram 1. Your switches need Diagram 2 with 2 supplies or Diagram 3 with an AC supply and diodes. Hth Paul.

Next step is a 6” wide full height module (1 of three required for the full frame). I’m expecting that to be sufficiently rigid, but ply is an option if it isn’t. There’s also the option of putting extra cross pieces for strength, but I need to leave openings for getting bits in and out. Paul.

2 1/2” wide (63.5mm). From memory, the height is 151mm and when full size the height will be 271mm. Width for my 35 lever frame will be 18” 457.2mm plus 10mm each end for the prototype finish. Paul.

Turbo***. :-) It is Sunday after all! Paul.

And only a phone call away for Tuesday and Thursday. Paul.

Thanks. It suits my skills and desired outcomes. Paul.

RUNNING SESSION Must have been an MLV shortage last running session. (Aye right!) Paul.

Meanwhile, I have been busy “modelling”. I’ve had to learn a new CAD programme suggested by RMWeb users - the open source LibreCAD. It’s been a learning curve but I’m getting there. Now I’m getting to grips with how it works, it is much better for what I want to do than my previous arrangements, and it interfaces to the laser cutter software in a much more efficient manner so I’m pleased I had to put in the effort. Thus, today I cut and assembled this test piece. A couple of errors discovered that can be sorted before I go to full size. The top (indication panel and lever section) is proper size, the bottom is very much reduced so as not to waste mdf. The bottom will be increased to scale size to take the interface electronics and the width increased from 5 to 12 lever sections for the real one. Cladding for the front and ends also needs to be designed. Still lots of fun to be had. Paul.

Sorry to keep you waiting for so long. The jigsaw was finished in about a day and a half. The most difficult bit was the edges - hence the ruler to line them all up when testing which one fitted best. A sign of a quality producer, each edge has a different amount of white border so it was possible to separate into,four piles of edges. Very suitable for my tastes, and Keith was closest. Paul.

I could bring those too. All dried out, not used for 30+ years. Hand too shaky even if they did work. Paul.

Showing my age as I read Radiospares without noticing. Was late 70s when the change happened. Paul.

I was ‘taught’ how to do that with the untinned bit of a soldering iron. I have more respect for my tools now! Although, if I’m soldering the wire (pvc) I tend to strip slightly short knowing that the heat will cause the insulation to retreat along the wire. Paul.

You’re in esteemed company there Keith. I think it was CJF, but it could have been Peter Denny, more years ago than I care to admit, commented that they had had an under stairs layout where the FY stuck out through the door for operating sessions thus all stock had to be run onto the scenic at the end. Their suggestion was to do it the opposite way round with FY under the stairs giving a more realistic feel. Paul.

I use these. https://www.esr.co.uk/shop/contents/en-uk/p33227_Perel_HTSTRIP5_Self_Adjusting_Wire_stripper___cutter_0.2-6mm².html The tension/pressure is adjustable by the knurled steel wheel and by turning it well down I can strip Cat 5 flex cable insulation which is fairly thin. Paul.

Most recommended from me. Even if just a frame to which you attach risers for trackbed support. Paul.

Quite agree. D(a)fT know they provided sufficient seats - the passengers just chose to travel at the wrong time or in the wrong direction. Paul.

Clearly had a very rough shunt at some point. Planks repaired but frame left as was. Paul.

See what happens when you cheat and read the last chapter first. :-) Still plenty of good reading left in between. Paul.

Thanks to both. I’ve had a look as the LibreCAD website and it looks like it does what I need and some things more easily that the iPad drawing program I’m using at the moment. I’ll have to become better acquaintedd with my laptop than I have been of late! Paul.

First posting in this particular forum as it’s an area that I have only become interested in within the past two years having gained access to a laser cutter. A very similar request to John Besley’s topic “CAD Software” which I have read with interest. I’ve started a separate topic so as not to cause confusion between packages that do or don’t work on iPad and or PC. I started with Inkscape on the laptop, but I haven’t found it intuitive to use. It is still part of my process but only for converting SVG to DXF and deleting unwanted layers before importing to Lasercut 5.3 in the club workshop. I found Vectornator for use on the iPad and that has become my preferred way of working. Vectornator was primarily an image manipulation tool aimed at producing screen designs. It has become Linearity Curve with lots of extra moving image add ons that I will never use but is also becoming a paid app at £60 + tax per year. Probably good value if you are using it as designed, but not when you’re using only 10% of the features. There is a free version but it is limited to 3 files. Examples of things I have designed are: Signalbox diagram - I can keep this as one of my 3 free files. Wiring diagrams. Even though I can ‘cheat’ by putting pages on different layers there will be far more than can reasonably be kept in one file. Laser cutter designs. So what would people recommend for doing these type of laser cutter designs and wiring diagrams that 1. Runs on an iPad 2. Is not an annual subscription (preferably free). 3. Is intuitive to learn in the early stages 4. Has the capability of precise positioning. 5. Preferably can import what I’ve done already in SVG. Thanks, Paul.

When I was a teenager I knew someone who worked in the parcels depot at Nottingham London Rd. He ended up in Toton as a shunter as reorgs etc closed down the parcels operation. He used to moan to me about “management”. Not sure whether he realised that I counted as “management” in his definition. His comment was that whenever a new graduate type was put in charge, they worked to the book for a day or two (as instructed), and once it was realised that the job wasn’t getting done, were allowed to go back to their ways that worked. Paul.

No, ‘cos the job was done. Until something went wrong. Paul.

Do you need to worry? That’s two of us had near misses, we might get closer next time. “Only two wires” comes with a penalty - DCC: DC made Complicated! Paul.

Use Traincontroller as it matches the speeds internally and controls them separately. (You didn’t specify “cheaply “ in your question!) Being (a bit) more serious, although the normal ‘recommendation’ is to maximise the number of speed steps available to give ‘finer’ control, 1m.p.h. accuracy seems fine, particularly at higher speeds. Some go for exponential speed curves to give closer control at lower speeds but your premise requires a straight line speed table. Thinking out loud, might 1 mph steps be a bit coarse at shunting speeds? Sadly, if the answer is Yes it blows the whole concept out of the water. An early test might be appropriate. Returning to consists, if the actual speeds of two locos are different at particular speeds below 64mph, then adjusting the speed table of the errant loco is the solution. Deciding which is the errant loco might be the trickier part. Again, testing with a wide range of locos will indicate if this is a systemic problem (not the desired answer) or limited to individual ‘problem’ locos. Testing does not need to be limited to locos that are planned to be consisted. Paul.