5BarVT

Just had to remind myself what arrangement of point droppers you have so as I give you the correct reason for what I’m going to suggest. Unifrog have a pre isolated frog so using the inbuilt switch won’t bypass the CB - the small frog area will be fed from the ‘accessory’ bus and everything else will go through the CB. So far so good! However, the whole point of a separate accessory bus is that if (when!) you run onto a wrongly set point from the V end, the CB isolates the fault and leaves the accessory bus live so that the point can be run to the correct position. So by using S1 Frog, any short will be between the accessory bus and one side of the CB output. It all depends on the internal design of the CB whether this will be detected - my (ignorant!) guess is that it will detect a fault on one leg but not the other; but it could be both or neither! You could wire one via S1 Frog and test to see if the CB operates, or you could assume it won’t and wire up the classic way using S2 with the frog connected to S2-C as you described. You’ve only missed something IF the the DCCC iP-CB can detect single sided faults on both legs. Otherwise your logic is robust. Paul.

I have heard a story about a trainee driver being taught to use a haystack to start his braking for a mid section station, with the same effect. I suspect apocryphal, but it still makes a good story. Paul.

That sounds like a “been there, done that, got the T-shirt” comment. Paul.

‘Fraid the LoS is not realistic - a Limit of Shunt means Stop, so can only be used to limit shunt moves wrong road on a uni-directional line. Very early in my career, WR were installing reversible working west of Didcot and at least one LoS had to be replaced with a working shunt signal so that it could be cleared for a bi-di move past it. I suspect that drivers (back in your times) would know where to stop to be clear of the incoming signal (all part of ‘route knowledge’), but if you wanted a sign to assist, something like a ‘6’ on a plain board is what would have been provided. Ground signals for shunting out when a main signal exists is getting very much into the intricacies of block working and whether you keep the up starting signal or not. If the single line is short (just to get the NG past a couple of bridges) then probably little benefit (in real life). LMS/LMR had a penchant for providing shunt signals when an equivalent main signal existed so you’re in the right part of the country for that to be realistic. HTH Paul.

It’s an 08, not a Tardis! If you can find room, it’s a good idea. Paul.

A slippery slope. :-) I’ve just spent the evening tracklaying to the sound of a Class 47 ticking over. Modelling to a 7F just hissing away must be equally as relaxing! Paul.

My Uncle used to say 30mins at 300 degrees (I think I’ve remembered the temperature properly). Unfortunately, that doesn’t work with plastic. Paul.

P.S. Listening to horn and start up sounds on Roads & Rails and Abottswood suggest that it isn’t SWD, Coastal, Jamie Goodman, Legomanbif, or Howes. I’m discounting Youchoos as they seem to be all Zimo chips. Paul.

‘Cos a terminal station is far more interesting operationally? Paul.

Once you’ve got the switch rail back in position there are two things you can do. One is a suitable piece of styrene strip between the toes side of the tie bar and the adjacent sleeper (as you have described). Can’t be too tight as you still want the switches to move! The second is to fit the cobalts (I use tortoise, but same difference) slightly offset towards the heel of the switch blade so that the operating wire is constantly pressing the switch rail back into position. They are not incompatible, so you can do both. Paul.

I have bought a s/h sound fitted loco - Bachmann 31-656 D1677 Thor. As far as I can tell this was not available in an OEM Sound fitted version. The product number when I purchased was suffixed CSF which I assume is “Customer Sound Fitted”. This is consistent (in my mind) with the decider being a Locksound v4 with a production date of 2013 I’m interested in finding out whose sound project it was so I’m listing the functions to see if anyone recognises the format (assuming that the previous owner hadn’t modified them!). In the JMRI Information tab the name is just ”Class 47” F0 - Head/tail lights F1 - Sound on/off F2 - Low horn F3 - Low-high-low horn F4 - Brakes on / release (latching function with separate, slightly different sounds for on and off) F5 - Compressor F6 - Coupling clank F7 - Shunting mode F8 - Cab lights F9 - Wheel squeal F10 - Spirax valve? (The characteristic clicking when shut down.) F11 - Failed start F12 - Mute volume Does anyone recognise the function allocations, or the e.g. style of horns, and can identify the creator? TIA Paul.

Indeed it does. Fills in the gaps nicely - slotting of the lever rather than the arm. I suspect it made it easier to get the pulls adjusted, although I did very little mechanical semaphore, I did learn that getting slotting of (lower) distants adjusted right was not the easiest thing. Paul.

Now I know who to ask - our mutual friend who probably took it out. Hadn’t thought about it being related to under the floor . . . . . . which, given the MR went for locking behind the levers on the operating floor, could be the derivation. Thanks to both, my education has been increased and will probably be increased further. Paul.

I can tell it’s a Sunday photo ! I enjoyed watching yesterday (I was the one who asked about Stoats Nest Jn) and came back a second time in between (guest) operating on Dallam. A very simple track plan, but it works really well. Paul.

I feel for you. I have just been sucked into that dark and contaminating world. :-) Paul.

I have also seen the term “underbolting” applied to distants (seems to be an LMS/LMR terminology, hence why I don’t know precisely what it means). Is that related to using another boxes distant cos yours isn’t far enough out? Paul.

A GF is the easiest way to implement it as it needs no other signalling (#): GF normal, operates as any other platform road; GF released, shunter in control of the platform. # - slightly more tricky if the shunter needs to go out beyond the starting signal due to insufficient length between the point and signal. Paul.

Worth asking AndyY if he can change the email for your current account. May or may not be possible, but worth asking. Paul.

BOX OPENING REPORT I opened my latest delivery while my wife was present. ”What’s that?” ”A loudspeaker.” “You’re doing sound?” (Eyebrows were raised significantly as this comment was made) ”I thought you said sound was only for Saddo’s.” She’s technical and can see what I’m up to very easily. And, yes, I probably have said that in the past. Sorry folks. Paul.

Thank you SRman, just the confirmation I was hoping for. Paul.

OFF TO THE DARK(er) SIDE A couple of weeks ago I was able to operate a Hymek fitted with Legoman sound. I rather enjoyed it. Oh dear! Some investment in a few bits and pieces have given me yet another excuse to delay building my layout. It may be sometime . . . Paul.

Morning all, About to start dabbling in sound. My wallet blames a Hymek fitted with Legoman sound that I was able to operate a couple of weeks ago! I’m starting with Loksound v5 as I have access to a Lokprogrammer. I have read the manual and understand how it works with function mapping and sound slots (whether my understanding survives first contact with a chip remains to be seen). I have JMRI at home so don’t need to do CV by CV from a command station. My two questions (for the moment): 1) What is the impedance of the pre fitted sugar cube that comes with a Loksound v5 - 4 or 8 ohms? 2) Do sound projects come with the function keys ‘locked’ or is it possible to change them (to make it easier when I have sounds from different suppliers whose default F keys are not the same)? TIA Paul.

I used to do 2x1 framing which was enough to hide an H&M solenoid. When I moved to tortoise it was a new layout so I went for 4” ply frames (actually 100mm, but I’m so old that I’m bilingual!). None of the helps you, but your solution is very elegant. Well done. Paul.

For hidden areas, 12mm No.4 slotted brass CSK with pilot holes (after a few broke when I was screwing them in). For scenic areas I have some No.1 screws as the head size is the same as code 100 rail. Other just use larger and cut off the excess with a cutting disc after soldering. Make sure the screw head and the rail bottom are well tinned. Paul.

Fun, isn’t it. I haven’t been back to mine to update it for some time. Gets even more fun when you have computer based train operation because it all has to be converted into the operating system . . . I have started, but I haven’t finished! Paul.