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DCMarvel

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  • Website URL
    http://www.livewyre.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Fylde Coast Lancashire
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, Scooters, Cars, Wine, Real Ale, Fishing and of course Model Railways and Garden Railways.

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  1. Sounds like you are re-inventing the wheel. Why move away from wood as they are going to be more bulky, they won't stack when not in use, end caps for the adjustrable feet will sag when under weight plus PVC piping goes brittle with age. 2x2" timber with ply cross bracing and a U-shaped metal top support to sit the board ends on is both easier to make and last forever. A sliding extension with a slot and two locking wingnuts is cheaper and does away with individual adjustable bought in feet. A simple plywood strip 45 degree brace keeps the legs vertical and keeps each pair of legs a universal fit so each pair can be used anywhere on the layout as long as every set is identical.
  2. I have quite a few oldish Hornby tender drive steam locos and some diesels which to coin a phrase 'couldn't pull a skin off a rice pudding' or even worse can't pull 3 coaches! These have laid in a box in the quite hot/very cold loft for a few years and are in 'as new' condition and run fine on their own. I have checked the traction tyres and they seem OK but I have a feeling they have hardened a little and the wheel is also turning inside the tyre. Replacements are expensive and awkward to fit so I have bought a bottle of Bullfrog Snot. No instructions came with it so how is the best way to apply it and what is the drying time?
  3. The Blackpool and Fylde MRC annual exhibition is next weekend Sept 21/22nd at the usual venue. A lot of new layouts we haven't had before and a lot of trade stands. For more details see http://www.blackpoolandnorthfyldemrc.co.uk
  4. Check the slot or hole the pin works through hasn't got bunged up with a bit of loose ballast or scenic scatter while the board has been in storage, especially if it's been up-ended. Could as Suzie said a bit of tarnish on the solenoid cores too, a tiny squirt of WD-40 might help.
  5. I think someone may be collecting these. The original poster had one but can't find it...and I had one on my exhibition layout last year and someone nicked it! I didn't notice at the time as you pack up as quick as you can when the show is over, and it wasn't until I started a new layout and thought the little Midland van would be ideal, that I realized I couldn't find it anywhere.
  6. The show went well, decent attendance fairly steady over both days. All layouts there were first class and the demo stands were interesting, incredible trees and wagon loads. Same place, same weekend next year. Club open day in February at Cleveleys - see website for details.
  7. Must be an issue with your ipad/browser/firewall as the site loads directly or via the link from here on every PC, phone or desktop I can get to try it with. It works on i-phone safari, so presumably not a general mac issue, although Wix has a slight issue with scaling to mobile size, and it is fine on Android tablet. It displays OK on my smart TV browser which is useless for most things. It works with Firefox, Chrome and IE on Windows PC without any such issues.
  8. This is what I have been working on for the last year or so. Double fold to the wall base boards. Completely freelance done in SCARM.
  9. Agreed. The best part is the planning, so put most effort into this aspect until you are convinced it will work in the space you have. Then design baseboards to suit the trackplan, never work on set sizes with frames all exactly the same as once you start laying track sods law dictates a point motor has to go where a baton exists, so you modify your plan. This is the thin end of a slippery wedge of further compromises.
  10. Never known an old layout go dead, If it works well when new it continues to work for years. If you do a good job with soldering on the power supply droppers, they shouldn't fail. A quick track cleaner rub should have it as good as new in minutes.
  11. Yes be careful, some bubble wrap has a coating that seems to stain, possibly when it's been used before and picked up a contaminant, so avoid pre-used bubble wrap. My collection is all housed in white card boxes divided inside using foam core stuck with neat PVA. This way I have customised each box for the stock required. I got the idea from the 'Warley stock box' which comes as a 2 layer with ready made liners that lift out and can be altered to suit which I use for my exhibition stock. These are excellent boxes but hard to source and very similar boxes without the liners can be had in large quantities for peanuts from the famous auction site, for use at home. I prefer this so keeping stock in the original boxes as that makes it much more bulky, and I can have a rake of wagons running round in less time than it would take to get a couple out of their original boxes as they are all in one place. I don't bother about the original box adding value, I don't do model railways for the value I do it for the fun.
  12. DCMarvel

    LEDs

    LEDS are polarity sensitive but wiring them the wrong way doesn't damage them they just don't light. The twin colour LED will light a different colour for each polarity. LEDS require about 1.5V DC so use either a low output transformer or resistors in a 12V feed. You can use more than one LED per resistor but if a LED fails the others get more power and a chain of failures follows. Wire all the - pins on the LEDS to a buswire and use a resistor in the feed to each + pin. (anode and cathode to give their correct names) see http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/calc/led-series-resistor-calculator.php for a resistor value required. Go higher in value for longer life or lower for brighter light output but short life.
  13. Most of this kind of stuff made in China is hand soldered, I have seen photos usually by women sat at well lit work benches quite cottage industry looking, and quality is generally quite good. It's actually amazing how they can turn out large quantities in short time with a pretty good consistency. At the price they sell to UK resellers for they would never be competitive if they invested in flow solder technology. Occasionally a dud or lesser quality one slips through and if a buyer returns one as faulty, it would be tested and opened up and if anything unusual found they would be made to correct it. You would get a replacement from another batch or your money back. If you have already opened it up then you probably wouldn't but the product development team where you bought it from would still have liked to see it.
  14. I work for such a company you purchased from in product compliance and can confirm power supplies from China are a pain in the neck. We thoroughly test all PSU's sold and included in products so they comply with RoHS, CE, WEEE, LVD, BS etc but the Chinese do have a nasty habit of changing the spec or modifying components on a re-order but not telling us. They also slip in the odd counterfeit item, sometimes deliberately, sometimes they get caught out too by sub-suppliers of parts. We do get odd ones that, until someone lets us know, sell many. Another problem we have is when users are buying a PSU for a purpose other than what it is intended for, and I guess this would be such a usage, as it is difficult then to determine whether the problem is purely in this instance, especially if no one else using them for the intended use has reported any issues.
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