Jump to content

Alex Duckworth

Members
  • Content Count

    307
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

761 Good

Profile Information

  • Location
    Nr. Cambridge.
  • Interests
    2mmFS
    4mm NG (8mm gauge)

Recent Profile Visitors

755 profile views
  1. Don't worry about the wire and cornflake box thing Mike, proper modelling is about ending up with the best possible model for the desired result and you certainly do that. I was told a long time ago that a good modelmaker would use materials appropriate to the desired result, whether brass, wood, card (or etching and 3D printing for that matter). It's quite natural, I find, to be hyper aware of the wobbly bits - when I've finished a model I can't bear to look at it for a couple of weeks, all I can see are the mistakes and bits that I should have done better. The important thing is that you im
  2. Hello Mike, I've been coming back to your latest photos for a couple of days now and I have to say that I think your "Starry Night" long exposure shot without the train is the most realistic model photo that I've ever seen. The screen is really well done but the roof with it's dirty glass and missing panes is perfect, as is the placement of the single figure at middle distance. I rather like the sunlight shot too - in fact I like all of them.
  3. Hello Mike - brilliant (as ever) photo. I went back several times to check that it is a model and that you aren't spoofing us. Magic! regards, Alex.
  4. Absolutely no intention of reproducing them.
  5. Thank you both for your answers. Alex.
  6. Quick question for anyone who remembers the Harton locos - No. 10 in its green incarnation appears to have four small lights on the cab roof. Were they all white lights, were they directional? Did No.10 (and No. 13) carry built in directional red lights? I'm building 10 and 13 in 2mm and I'd like to get the lighting correct. thanks, Alex.
  7. Yes, the chassis is scratchbuilt. The split frame chassis is made from 2 strips of 0.5mm double sided PCB, frame spacers from 1.5mm double sided PCB, gapped and soldered together. Frame bearings are 2mm Assoc. 1.5mm phosphor bronze and the wheels are 2mm Assoc. 9mm brass centered drivers with filler counterweights and every other spoke sawn out with a piercing saw. Their rear faces were turned down and backed with shim brass, then thin superglue was dripped into the spaces between the spokes. The cylinders are IIRC old Brian Clarke castings redrilled and sleeved. The con rods, coupling rods, c
  8. Thank you. The answer is no, but it should be. My use of 2mmAssoc. drivers (I wanted brass centres for a split frame chassis) means that it will run on Peco 009 track, but only just. Careful back to back adjustment is needed to tread the narrow line between the flanges hitting the point vee and the wheels falling inside the rails. Fettling the Peco points is probably more trouble than building your own track, on a small layout at least. It's OK on straight track though.
  9. Just rediscovered this thread - really impressed, excellent work. Alex.
  10. My generic Fletcher Jennings model is now finished apart from some weathering.
  11. Exceptional, especially with an out of the box engine. The finish on the background terrace is very realistic. Alex.
  12. Great work there David, this is going to make a really good diorama. Is it for the WD Simplex? Alex.
  13. I've had lots of MO.2 gears from Mikroantriebe, all white Polyacetal and I haven't had any problems with them at all. Alex.
  14. Thank you Mike, it's made easier by the excellent fit of your etches. I've been looking with interest at the EE1 that you sent. Alex.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.