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Titanius Anglesmith

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  1. That Venetian red looks very..... brown? Or is it a trick of the camera? Either way it contrasts nicely with the cream! Thanks all for the replies, most informative
  2. Thank you for the link @ianLMS, that’s useful. I’ve noted your water cranes already, Jencaster is one of my favourite layouts on here. My father painted his the same, but he’s no longer with us to ask why. On the other hand @Rowsley17D has painted the ones on Derwent Spa (another favourite) cream all over, which also looks ok. Photos of my local LMS line in the ‘30s definitely show the columns painted in two colours, but what colours? The photos from that era are all black & white.... Crimson and cream sounds like a safe bet.
  3. If I may be so bold, Point X should be double-ended with 13 to trap the siding, as you mentioned in a previous post. Y is still handworked. Ground signal 8 should be moved to the other side of X. May I also suggest a ground signal at the toe of 11 reading towards the platforms for running round etc?
  4. Another vote here for a lever frame. My own “lever frame” is a bank of toggle switches that input into an Arduino - The Arduino does the interlocking, switches power to the track (no separate isolating switches required), and operates the point and signal motors. Like @LNER4479 I’ve made compromises for convenience; e.g. the distant is fixed, FPLs are economic, certain ground signals have multiple routes off a single lever. One signal lever has a “selector”, so that the correct arm is lowered depending on the lie of the points. (In case anyone was wondering, the “spar
  5. Greetings All, Sorry if this has been asked a hundred times, but if it has I can’t find it..... I have just bought a P&D Marsh Midland water crane. What colour should it be for an LMS, ex-Midland Railway location in the 1930s? Present-day photos of Appleby show the water crane there as being either red or (primer?) grey. The P&D Marsh crane is ground-mounted, but I’m also looking for a platform-mounted equivalent. Can anybody point me towards one please? Thanks in advance
  6. I must be missing something, @Pacific231G‘s suggested shunting method makes perfect sense to me
  7. Another vote here for Screwfix’s No Nonsense PVA. I haven’t done much scenic work with it but I’ve used it for 10+ years for woodworking and not had any problems with it.
  8. Those figures (and the horses) are beautifully painted
  9. I understand that teak has to be weathered for a number of years before it will take paint due to its oily nature. When the Midland took over the LT&SR, the coaches remained in teak for several years before being painted.
  10. It’s not unlike Bakewell, albeit with the shed in a different spot https://signalbox.org/~SBdiagram.php?id= 900
  11. My local line made fair use of selectors where industrial expansion led to new sidings being added to existing layouts, though I haven’t come across it at a double slip yet. In some cases the selected signals were controlled from a push/pull lever, so three or more arms were controlled by one lever.
  12. Greetings All, I know signal placement has been done to death so apologies in advance. When a single shunt disc controls the exit from more than one siding, where is the signal placed? For example, 6 signal at Harlesden: https://signalbox.org/~SBdiagram.php?id= 134 Is it placed in the 6 foot between the two sidings as close to the fouling point as possible? Or on the outside where it can be closer to the tips of the trap, angled to give the best sighting from either siding? Thanks
  13. Depends where the light switch is Doors should be hinged on the side furthest from the light switch, as not to obstruct it when opened. All three of the bedrooms in my house have the switch near the corner, so the doors all open away from the corner.
  14. Being pedantic, that's a trainstop not a tripcock. The tripcock is the arm on the train that interacts with the trainstop.
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