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Amand

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  1. The loco from the starter set shown in the video is in LNER livery, to my non HD eyesight its 7942 R3529, which also features in the photo on Hornby's website. Ok, they have them in stock at full RRP. Further down the page it lists the starter set loco as R3529, Hornby's description J15, 65477, **ERA 3**, which is being offloaded by Hornby at £77.99. And its correct SKU is R3415. Come on Hornby, make your mind up! Its been bugging me all night hence me posting this at 4am!
  2. Definitely good news, helped by several limited edition models appealing to collectors and railway operators. Benefit of limited editions is Hornby possibly sold more models than usual direct to the public at full price. Those that were sold to the trade (as trade discount with further discount for prompt payment) sold out instantly too, so no stock depreciating in a warehouse. My nearest model shop sold out of all the limited edition locos within days, with only the two centenary trainsets not selling out straight away. So a run of "must have" locos that were sales hits have helpe
  3. You had a garden? How posh! Further up the north east coast it was a back yard with a netty!
  4. This ought to be in the Model Shop Guide forum. However, they are on eBay and have had over 100 positive feedbacks in the last month. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/nairnshiremodellingsupplies
  5. I have fitted an S15 into a colleagues loco, was a stand-alone decoder. As seen on the Hornby website, R8116: https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/tts-sound-decoder-s15.html
  6. Looks like my dad's Fiat Strada when it failed the first MOT due to the rust round the filler cap!
  7. Wish I could visit this shop, its a bit of a treck for me but had very good telephone advice and service from Jeremy and Nicole. Went with Digikeijs 5000 and a Digitrax DT500 throttle. The ability to have two locos under instant direct control is the best setup for my shunting layout. Alternative would be two bulky throttles or having to dispatch and recall the locos all the time with a single throttle. Despite all the buttons on the DT500 I find it a pain to access functions above F10, but when it comes to sound all I do is press F1 and occasionally F2 / 3 / 4 for the whistle.
  8. Yes, quite a while ago I put sound in J39s, V2s and an A4 All the DCC elements were in the tender, plenty of room inside. Some of the split chassis models have pickups on the bogie wheels, so easy to extract power from the chassis. Motors are easily isolated soldering wires to the motor then covering in heat shrink. A V1/3 tank was converted simply by using the space in the water tanks and placing the speaker in the bunker. Again this model has pickups on the pony wheels. In some cases its possible to separate the chassis just enough to wire up and isolate the motor without totally
  9. Mainline branded class 42s were probably last manufactured around 1983/4, and other than Ultrascale you could get some gears from Genesis Kits, though I understand he retired a couple of years ago without selling the business on to anyone. Cannibalisation of other Warships is probably your only other source of parts. Unlike the class 45, the 42 didn't appear under the "Replica Railways" brand in the 1990s, probably as Lima 42s were so cheap - around £5 each. Bachmann did bring out a model in the mid 2000s, the body shell appears to be based on the Mainline one but the drive mechani
  10. Depending upon the age of the model the ends of the wheels and axles will either be plain round tubes (one with a gear moulded on), or have square centres. Either way when the wheels on one side are at either 12 o'clock (or 6 o'clock) the other side wheels should be at either 3 or 9 o'clock - that's 90 degrees difference. Mechanically it doesn't matter which side leads. The plastic axles with square centres are the easiest to set up, as the 90 degree increments are pre-defined. However, the axles are prone to cracking down the sides, which can result in wheels locking up, or falling off. Just
  11. Initially it doesn't look promising as some parts of the website have 2010 as the date for forthcoming events. No phone number or address either. However, they advertise in the MERG quarterly Journal. There is a connection with 3mm Scale Model Railways, www.3smr.co.uk That website gives a phone number and address, more promising. No connection with either of the above....
  12. Insert a flat bladed screwdriver between the solid metal wheels (as shown in your second photo) and the metal chassis block and twist. The axle should disengage from the plastic centred wheel. If you try the other side you risk damaging the plastic gear on the inside of the wheel. Agree with Andy G above - the plastic looks like its cracking and the axles are rusting. The wheels are part no X6023. When you come to re-assemble the motor use some switch cleaning solvent or IPA to clean the brass tube that the axle sits in, then apply a tiny drop of PowerLube (Peco) to the axles, it
  13. A few questions - page 14, what's the size of the iron tips in mm, and how long to recharge the battery? Page 22, where's the class 97 details?
  14. The price of 8 inch floppy disks has trebled in the last week, so I'm guessing quite a few have been bought to copy the data over. The tecnology will be a system with a built in spell chequer
  15. The brand new ones have the collar is 1/3 of the way in the cog, so insert it so that the 2/3rds covers the ale, makes it much easier to fit . Guessing that the collar deforms slightly and that grips the axle. I've had a few silver coloured ones (Aluminium?) fail, but the brass ones seem to last, whether the original ones from the 1970s or the new replacements from Peters Spares. With practice its 1/2 hour job.
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