Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. Surprised and a bit disappointed that the Baldwins have been pushed back to April. They were shown as expected this month until very recently!
  2. Ordered a green Lyd from Bure Valley Models (who incidentally have it at £178, cheapest I've seen). Unfortunately after a quick test run, the valve gear came apart on both sides (drop link came astray and one of the tiny pins shot off never to be found), so back it had to go. Full marks to BVM, I phoned them on Friday to arrange the return, posted it on Monday, and the replacement (which they had test-run for me) arrived Thursday morning! I've now had a chance to run it on my oval test track, and after applying the recommended fixes of loosening the pony centering springs and wipers, it *touch wood* seems to be running fine. There's one dodgy track join where the leading pony sometimes comes off (I think my fault for poor track laying rather than the loco), and I haven't had a chance to try it on points yet, so fingers crossed. Now to carry on with layout planning...
  3. Hi all, I wasn't quite sure which section to put this in, so please feel free to move if incorrect. I was trying to fit a DCC decoder to my Hornby 4-VEP and, in a rather ham-fisted fashion, managed to accidentally pull out one of the cables that links the roof-mounted PCB to the socket on the chossis. Having neither the eyesight, skills or patience to try and re-solder the tiny connections, I have bought a replacement PCB, however, I can't figure out how to get the old one out to swap it without having to perform serious surgery. The PCB is held into the roof by a grey plastic frame, which is secured into the roof by 8 screws. However, at one end of the motor car, two of the screws are completely obscured by white plastic mouldings (presumably meant to be luggage racks)... see picture below. The white moulding at the end doesn't appear to be part of the body-shell (there's obviously a gap between it and the plastic end of the body), but I can't seem to find any way to remove it, and am reluctant to start applying brute force/sharp objects in case I'm missing something obvious. Has anyone got any ideas/suggestions, before I start butchering it? Many thanks Daniel
  4. Hi all, Apologies for re-awakening a slightly old thread, but I've been trying to chip my class 122 and having similar, but slightly different issues to those mentioned above. I'm using a Zimo MX638D, (non sound, and the documentation shows Function 3 as a non-logic level), with a Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance2. However, rather than the interior carriage lighting remaining on constantly (as others have said), it remains off and none of the function keys appear to turn it on. The interior lighting works fine on DC with the blanking plate inserted, so it's not a problem with the wiring contacts or circuitry itself. Has anyone else used this decoder (or similar) and seen the same issue? If so, did the mod of cutting the track to pin 17 solve it? I'm a bit loathe to start hacking the circuit board around in case my issue is something different entirely. Unfortunately I don't have any other 21 pin decoders to try at hte moment. Thanks for any suggestions you can offer. Regards Daniel EDIT - Never mind, I found the exact solution to my problem on anothe thread: Turns out I just needed to re-write CV#8=3 to switch the decoder into 'Logic Level' mode and it all works fine. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/138294-the-curious-case-of-a-zimo-638d-21-pin-mtc-decoder-and-a-Dapol-class-121/
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.