chris p bacon

Having visited Finland just once (to watch the WRC) I can say your English is way better than my Finnish. And that explains Saturday night in the hotel bar....

The more you can get in the roof the better*. If you're going for a steel roof it can get hot in the summer so you want to keep that heat out as well as in, in the winter. * IIRC the current spec is 340mm in roof voids.

They were. I might have a picture somewhere......just have to find it...

If you're thinking of wool (or spun) then you ideally need 100mm+ in the walls. It does depend on the external and internal cladding as that can add to the U value. For the ceiling I would use Celotex (or similar) and again use at least 100mm and pack any spare wool over the top. The conversion I have just finished was all Celotex (we couldn't meet the U value with any other product/type) It was 80mm+ in the walls (with 9" brickwork) and 100mm between the rafters and continuous 50mm across the bottom (room side) then counter battened for an air space. Finish was skimmed plasterboard. I sense some skip diving in the Newport area...

I've got some pictures (print) from the 90's of class 56 powered bin liners running round in Bedford Midland, must have been enough slack in the timetable to allow that.

Excellent Ade, He got a ride in a 12 wheeler! These books are really good for the description of what people see rather than relying on B&W photo's.

If you tear out the pages you don't need, they're really handy for packing the bad cuts on the plate.. When I was workshop bound I used to make templates and jigs for everything that needed doing 3 times or more, the boss/owner came in one saturday and luckily I was there, as if not half of them would have gone for firewood even though they had 'keep' written all over them.

I use my ready reckoner, I've just got to remember which bevel is set for which cut.......

Explains how I can lift myself out of the chair......

You've been to Biggleswade retail park then....

That is a great help, although you could argue that the colour isn't 100% correct, why would the artist choose a 'teaky' brown unless that is the sort of colour it is. When you get right into the detail a Bow pen would probably be too coarse, it's really fussy with lots of swirls ...thank god it was so sooty and grimy back then..... I did wonder about painting the coaches yellow and adding the odd bit of brown..

I haven't studied them in depth but I think the Midland ones were a Maroon with a very high gloss finish, they seem very different in colour in B & W photos to the GN ones. This is GN/ECJS 2992 A Midland Pullman There isn't a lot of decent photographs of the Pullmans that I can post (copyright) but suffice to say that when next to a GN teak vehicle there isn't a lot of difference in the colour ( except the shading of the graining on the teak) If anyone has more info I'd welcome it.

As noted before, I'm modelling a foggy night in December with the added complication of snow, hail, locusts and pestilence......I don't see the lining as an issue

The 3 Pullman bodies are now complete and ready for a coat of primer, there are still the bogies to finish off and I'll hopefully have something to report about them soon. Body colour is still an unknown so what I'll look at is using one of the Precision Teak paints (or a mix) and spraying it as a flat colour. All the photographs I have of the Pullmans show a flat dark colour ( there is lining but we won't mention that) The presumption I'm working on is that as the GN used varnished teak stock, the Pullmans would have been painted in a similar colour.

You must have rung Colin at Alan Gibson by mistake Don't misunderstand me, the product is very good and a pleasure to work with and I'm sure he's a very nice person, but customer services aren't his forte so it's better to order from someone who stocks his products. I agree about Chris from High Level, absolutely top bloke with a superb product and a pleasure to deal with.