Theakerr

FI, some of the early split chassis B1s had chassis fixing screws that were a bit too long and when screwed all the way home would cause either the cab to rise or the frame to drop

First, is the problem in the same direction for each set of points? Just define one direction as push using say an edge of the baseboard as a datum and the other is pull. Then see if the problem is common to one action. This will not necessarily tell you what the problem is but now you will be able to eliminate some circuits. Next are you using a common ground? If you are you have again eliminated one possible problem because they work in one direction. Next, do your points have the springy thing under the switch blade that is supposed to contact the contact rail to improve the electrical connection? If they do make sure it has not been raised up so as to prevent the switch blade from going all the way across. This can be deceptive in that when moving the points manually they appear free because the finger holds the blade down whereas the point motor can/tends to slightly raise the tie bar and the blade with its attached spring just a bit. For whatever reason I have found that if this is a problem it tends to be when throwing from the curved side to the straight side. Finally, as someone else has said check how tight the points are fastened down and what is under the point tie bar. For my hidden sidings that are laid directly onto a painted wood surface I have put a bit of grease proof paper under the tiebar in effect to lubricate it. Every so often i have to replace it because normal dust etc cause it to become 'sticky'.

Funny someone mentioned sludge trains. I have several spare B1 tenders and was thinking about converting a couple. However, pictures of these much loved vehicles are sadly lacking.

Check the cam on the close coupling system. A friends coach (not a Gresly) was constantly derailing and it turned out the cam had a piece missing. Built it back up with superglue and baking soda.

My suggestion as a starting point would be to prepare a ladder logic diagram of the relays using the basic as received always on function and the activated on function. From that the Arduino code can be written

Rather than using a latching relay why not use the Arduino itself as the 'latching mechanism'

For my semaphore signals I have been using traditional servos and Mega Point controllers for 3/4 years now. Due to the footprint size of a traditional servo motor the servos had to be mounted under the baseboard with only a small hole for the actuating wire through the baseboard. Working on the underside of the baseboard was a bit of a pain so when I saw miniature servos advertised and purchased three and thought i would give them a try on a signal that had got in the way of my arm, i.e broken. Attached are some photos of the result. The traditional servo is on the right of the 1st picture. Pretty happy. Significantly reduced footprint and the Mega Point Servo control works for them Sourced from https://hobbyking.com/en_us/radio-servos/servos.html?___store=en_us#q=&idx=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products&dFR[warehouses][0]=USA&dFR[warehouses][1]=Global&dFR[warehouses_stock_data][0]=USA|1&dFR[warehouses_stock_data][1]=USA|2&dFR[warehouses_stock_data][2]=USA|3&dFR[warehouses_stock_data][3]=Global|1&dFR[warehouses_stock_data][4]=Global|2&dFR[warehouses_stock_data][5]=Global|3&hFR[categories.level0][0]=Radio %2F Servos %2F%2F%2F Servos&nR[a_mm][<%3D][0]=24&nR[b_mm][<%3D][0]=65&nR[c_mm][<%3D][0]=27&is_v=1 I used the HK5320

Life at times can be quiet strange. There are those who cannot abide plunger pick-up yet I have been using Alan Gibson plunger pick-ups for years and love them. Springy wire things on the other hand have never been anything but problematic for me. Anyway, now i have the pee-amble finished I will continue. I am in the process of building a Nu-Cast J6 and don't want to install plunger pick-ups until I have decided what gearbox will eventually be used since they might get in the way. So I have experimented using DCC concepts ready made pick-ups. After installing a plastic cross member, insulation strip and lengthening the mounting hole to give lateral movement, they were a very easy fit. They work quiet well and an added benefit is the fact that they self center the wheels. I am not trying to convert anyone, I post this just for information (and amusement)

Will be posting to Wright Writes thread in a minute but just saw this thread, so I will post a duplicate here. For my semaphore signals I have been using successfully traditional servos and Mega Point controllers for 3/4 years now. Due to the footprint size of a traditional servo motor the servos had to be mounted under the baseboard with only a small hole for the actuating wire through the baseboard. Working on the underside of the baseboard was a bit of a pain so when I saw t miniature servos advertised I thought i would give them a try on a signal that had got in the way of my arm. Attached are some photos of the result. The traditional servo is on the right of the 1st picture. Pretty happy. Significantly reduced footprint and the Mega Point Servo control works for them Sourced from https://hobbyking.com/en_us/radio-servos/servos.html?___store=en_us#q=&idx=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products&dFR[warehouses][0]=USA&dFR[warehouses][1]=Global&dFR[warehouses_stock_data][0]=USA|1&dFR[warehouses_stock_data][1]=USA|2&dFR[warehouses_stock_data][2]=USA|3&dFR[warehouses_stock_data][3]=Global|1&dFR[warehouses_stock_data][4]=Global|2&dFR[warehouses_stock_data][5]=Global|3&hFR[categories.level0][0]=Radio %2F Servos %2F%2F%2F Servos&nR[a_mm][<%3D][0]=24&nR[b_mm][<%3D][0]=65&nR[c_mm][<%3D][0]=27&is_v=1 I used the HK5320

I am in the bottom suction cup family. It does have its disadvantages, the big one being that if you get carried away it is very easy to get the angle of the spray gun wrong and spill paint from the cup. The big advantage is that I can have multiple cups of different colours made up and with minimal cleaning (just passing soapy water through for acrylics) I can go from one colour to another with minimal hassle just by changing the cup

Yet another reason why I have essentially stopped buying off e-bay. For many items I find I can get an alternate source but it must really be hurting the little guys who relay on e-bay. Here in Canada on a US import, e-bay adds our GST tax regardless of value even though our new trade agreement has increased the limit before tax is charged and then add an administration fee. On some items I have also seen a shipping premium added. From the UK they do the same even though I think the tax free limit is Can$200 for incoming shipment. Further - note I cannot vouch for its veracity, but the mill has it that none of this charge actually ends up with Revenue Canada. Added question to any Canadians, Are my statements still true about the US? For the above reasons i have not purchased anything from the US for a year or so.

I used it on a loco body of a kit that was ready to paint. It dissolved all the spot flller putty leaving a right mess and contaminated new filler when I tried to replace the old messed up stuff. Ended up soaking it in concrete cleaner (my standard pre-paint cleaner over here) and eventually got it so that it would take new spot putty.

Interesting. i have just finished building three of these. My research, i.e. looking at the few pictures I could find suggest that the bolster positions are fixed because every picture I found had them in the same position. How they are fixed I have no idea (and don't really care)

I must have repaired x number of these tender drive locos. Every one was due to the valve gear locking up. Normally it is the piston rod that gets bent inwards due to handling and catches on the front wheel con rod bolt. Not saying this is the problem but have a look

All one can say is patience. Andrew has done pretty well as far as I am concerned

I am waiting on some 00 wagon wheels. I talked to Andrew about a month ago (they are still showing as out of stock) and the required items have been on back order since early June. Not his fault and as another poster has said it must be frustrating because it is a lost sale. Don't know where these particular items are coming from but it is amazing just what is not available or in short supply as a result of the COVID supply chain disruption.

For those who are inspired by this thread to build locomotives, a couple of things that might be useful but i have not seen posted before. The first, which I have been using for years, is getting the axles to turn freely in frame brass bushings. For the most part I am able to build a chassis where I can get the opposing bushings true such that the axles goes in and turn but sometimes one or more are very stiff. To make them free turning, I put a good quality 1/8" drill bit in my vertical drill press, turn the drill on and run the 'problem' bushings up and down the bit rotating the chassis at the same time. It may not be for the purist I find it is more effective than my 1/8" reamer. Just do a little bit at a time though. The second item relates to the Nu-Cast J6 I am building. I had noticed that the centre wheels after installation of the bushings were a bit higher than the two outer wheels (Approx 0.15 to 0.2mm) I did not worry because a) I thought the amount was small and b) it eliminated any possibility of rocking. Axially they were true as best I was able to measure. However, when trying to install the coupling rods, I just could not eliminate just a little 'sticking', not much but enough to bug me. After much frustration I decided to lower the centre wheel bushings, especially because I could sort of visualize how a height difference could increase the effective rotational length of the crank pins. It was a pain but it worked.

look at DCC concepts. They have a spring type that goes over the axles- I did not find these very good, but others have had success. They also have a unit that I use extensively on my tender locos. I used to build my own but since DCC have brought out their unit I dont bother anymore. No connection with DCC

I've got a couple of Super-glues so will give them both a try although in the past the Super Glues i had did not work

Talking of XiAn, on my second visit I thought i must have got on the wrong plane. The first time I was there it was an 'old airport' and our Chinese hosts took us to what I believe was a traditional restaurant very close to the airport. The second time, about 14 months later we landed, I looked out of the window, and found I had landed at an 'all new' airport. Until the announcement came on (English second) I was having a minor panic attack because I was sure this was not the same place I had been too before. Anyway it was but the old restaurant was gone - shame because the food was very good.

What Glue did you use to fasten the chairs down? I am using code 100 and the chairs are made of that slippery plastic that doesn't accept any of the glues i am aware of.

How is the input speed controlled and what type of input is it? Specifically, does it have to be a 'pure' DC source or could it be PWM or some other type. For the latter I am thinking of input from say a Kent Panel controller or some of the Model Signal engineering controllers.

Watched one of the 'Whats Neat" shows last night and saw this. Looks very interesting and can see me buying one because I could use the speed rather than the voltage to control my station stop modules. According to RM they have opened a facility in the UK. https://tcsdcc.com/accessories/speedometers

Gentlemen, another question from the Great White North; where do you get your low melting point solder? Trying to get it over here seems to be an imposibility. Thanks

I am not in the market for points so my question is really academic as of today but the answer might change things. Can the basic shape be altered by the builder? I am referring to some posters on this forum who have taken Peco straight point and made them into slightly curved points.