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Everything posted by dasatcopthorne

  1. Have you left the 'whistle' activated on the loco. Check the F keys that are active. Dave.
  2. I built my layout during 2020/21 on the understanding that the double slip would be available around that time. Because of the geometry, I am stuck with a flatbotton D Slip waiting for replacement. Next time I will use Finetrax. Not that it will worry Peco. Dave.
  3. I wonder how long it is between being in production and in the shops?
  4. Here's my personal coupling solution. I use the Brian Kirby magnetic conversion for Bachmann couplings. Dave.
  5. I have locked all mine in place. They must be absolutely square to the chassis. Make sure you have good wheels and they are at 14.5btb. At least Romfords or the latest Hornby/Bachmann wheels. Like this they are fine down to 2nd radius (Peco Double Slip). Why not lock 2 or 3 up with Blutac and test. Dave.
  6. I wonder where Hornby got their idea for the VIX van from. Elbow Lane? Dave.
  7. You lot who have the luxury of replacement couplings have done well. I bought a set of Cemflows and discovered that the 'loop' hung 1mm too low. According to NEM. When I pointed this out I was told that 1mm was within tolerance. End of story. I've now sold them. The PCAa are the same but I've repositioned them but I shouldn't have to do that. Dave.
  8. Can I ask how you know please? Dave.
  9. Thank for your eplies Guys. I'll have a further try. Dave.
  10. Happy New Year All. Only one day to go and it'll be 'another year' re the subject line.
  11. On another group some has been told by a London Tour Guide that the Subway cars, weren't they F and G, were rebuilt into double decker by stacking one on top of another. I've never heard of this. What is the truth please? Dave.
  12. Sorry. It's V4 and yes, I used CV31=16 & CV32=0 making CV315 =0 turning off Aux 6 Does the Stay Alive need Aux6. I found an instruction that AUX6 needed turning off. Dave.
  13. Sorry to have to ask this again but I have tried and have had absolutely no luck in getting a DCC Concepts stay alive working. I have done the following; Set CV 315 = 0 Set CV 113 = 254. I get no run-on whatsoever. Is there another CV to set please? Could it possibly by something to do with CV124? Any help most welcome. Dave.
  14. First thing to try is a Reset. You need to find it in the info leaflet. But prob CV8 = 8 but check first as I don't have any TTS chips. Dave.
  15. For our Club layouts that get moved around a lot I prefer brass screws. Dave.
  16. Third rail again! Mmmmm. If you are using Code 75 track you will find the Peco chair rails the 3rd rail too high for RTR Models. Prototype sleeper spacing was every 4th sleeper but is mostly every 5th now. But, remember, Peco sleeper spacing is too close other than the new Bullhead. The last pic is what I used years ago as chairs. Unfortunately I can only find No 2 on eBay now. I made a gauge to drill the sleepers. Dave.
  17. Here is what I have used for Elbow Lane. I had the two trestles in the garage already and decided to use the long timbers to support three boards, total 7' 6" in length. The timbers are also 7'6" long but fold in half to fit in a car. The trestles have a small stop bracket (that folds away) and the timbers are notched to fit over the cross bars. I designed the supports thus because I expect to erect the layout on my own sometimes. It can all be put up easily by one person. Additionally, the tree boards need to be tipped onto their back to fit joining bolts, so I also fitted 'table tops' that fit between the long timbers. Again, three pieces so they fit in the car. Holes are for cables between each board. The cheapest way to obtain a good black curtain is to buy large catering table cloths on eBay but you'll need to cut and get them edged. All fitted by Velcro. Hope this helps someone. Dave
  18. Thank you all for your replies. I'm beginning to understand the Zimo version of programming etc. Now. Found the Swiss Mapping and got everything operating as needed. Cheers. Dave.
  19. Many thanks for your help Paul. I did a reset first. Then I removed FO1 (Aux 1) from the F1 key and the rear red no longer operates from F6 key but only with the F13 key. The F6 key bringing on Shovelling and the Firebox LED. This is fine. One more thing please. I seem to have lost the forward White LED. This was working. I believe this is wired to the usual wire for front lights. I used to work only in forward motion. Not withstanding that the LED may have 'blown' (unable to test it directly at the moment) I have found more than one 'sheet' on JMRI that seems to control the front light. I have ticked front light moxes and written to chip but still no light. Am I missing something obvious please? I'm much more used to programming ESU V4/5s. Dave. EDIT. There are no boxes ticked for lighting at all. I have tried some but to no effect.
  20. I'm waiting for Ravenser to let us know if this is acceptable. Dave.
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