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Blandford1969

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Blog Comments posted by Blandford1969

    JimC

    Posted

    It should be said that being piston valve means accelerating away and notching up are easier as you don't have to do the two handed shuffle as with a flat valve engine, ie blower on, regulator closed, move the pole, regulator open and blower shut. In first valve it can be possible to do it without totally shutting off, in second valve you have no chance. Every second the regulator is closed of course is loosing momentum. Whereas with 1501 you can notch up without having to shut off at all. 

     

    the 94xx do have a slight edge on the 15xx in terms of power though and I can imagine they would be preferred for that bit extra they give.

    • Informative/Useful 1
    JimC

    Posted

    From a prep perspective 1501 wins hands down over a normally aspirated pannier. Everything including the axleboxes can be done from the outside; you just have to make sure the engine is set correctly to do it easily. The only thing you need to go underneath for is to check the springs. You could argue its better on a pit to do the two on the brake shaft, 

     

    On the road the 15 has buckets of power and handles 8 with ease. You can clearly see they would have been good on the ECS's in and out of Paddington.  

     

    Some might feel they waggle or are unstable, but to be honest the only time you see a waggle is if you pull it up too soon and at too slow a speed. Its more stable than a normal pannier. However the temperature in the box is noticeably higher. Quite a number call it a raging bull, 

     

    I would be surprised if they ever got to more than 30 on those ECS's considering the weight of them. 

     

    In short a great engine and a nice easy prep and disposal, with bags of power. 

    • Like 1
    • Informative/Useful 1
    Brassey

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Brassey said:

     

    my No. 334 will also have an Armstrong door (I bought two from the Broad Gauge Society stand a few years back at Scaleforum ostensibly for the Dean door which is on the same casting).  I also have in my stash probably dating back to the 70's, a number of turned brass doors that are labelled Armstrong.  That's how I became aware there was  a difference.

     

    beyer_334.jpg.5be69b9830317db916a4812bdc9a541b.jpg

    I wish that bridge was still there. Can you imagine the great shots which would be possible ?

    • Like 1
    Mr.S.corn78

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Richard Jones said:

    Hi,

    The best printed sources are D L Bradley, Locomotives of the LBSCR, part 2 (RCTS) and J H Russel, Pictorial Record of Southern locomotives (OPC) - this has weight diagrams for all SR locos and drawings for some.

    There are a couple of Locomotive Illustrated that have photos of E1s ( I can check which editions if you are interested)

    I would not be surprised if there are works drawings in the collection at NRM, but as I'm building kits, haven't bothered with that source.

    The Brighton Circle is a mine of information, and they have a Facebook page that  gives their details or see http://www.lbscr.org/History/Circle/index.html

    certainly worth looking at the "modellers digest" (download link on the circle's website)

    I also have an SE Finecast E1 and D1 which are both almost complete (photo attached)

    Hope that helps

    Richard

     

     

     

    That's great Richard, many thanks

     

    Duncan

    Mr.S.corn78

    Posted

    57 minutes ago, Richard Jones said:

    Hi,

    I've got two of these plus a C2 next on my list to build once I've finished a batch of 2 x E1 and a D1 all from Albion kits....

    An observation - the tender on your kit looks to be different around the footplate level from the one in mine - I must have a look and check.......

    It would be nice to see the E1 and D1 builds. I am trying to scratch build an E1 in 4mm but getting the information is challenging

    Dave John

    Posted

    5 hours ago, Dave John said:

    Hi Blandford. I cut curved brass strip using a pair compasses with a  sharpened point replacing the lead . The roof was curved by rolling with a bar and a soft cloth, then tie wrapped to a jar that was conveniently the right diameter. ( beetroot I think ) . The 3 bits of curved brass were then soldered on and when removed from the jar cut to length so the side strips could be attached. Technically the roof supports should be L section, but thats a bit too fiddly for me . 

    Thanks, that's a really useful tip. 

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