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Everything posted by DLT

  1. Good luck with that! When he wanted authentic ballast, a friend of mine once tried crushing a lump of Meldon Quarry granite on his garden path. He damaged the path before he made any impression on the granite!
  2. One thing I DIDN'T say about the chassis, is that when I made new spacers, I made them slightly wider than the supplied 00 spacers. if built as supplied you end up with sideplay on all axles, and you take this up by adding washers. Seems a bit odd, so I'vr made the chassis wider, and provided sideplay where necessary (on the second and fourth axles) by thinning down the bearing bosses. I guess the provision of unnecesarily narrow frames in 00 is a legacy of old open-frames motor days, when the chassis was designed for the motor to fit on top of it, with worm & wheel gearing and no gearbox. The wider the frames, the more space you have to get a gearbox in. Cheers, Dave.
  3. Hi Folks, This is a very interesting discussion, about the finer points of using the Poppy's Jigs. I'm always pleased to read your advice/comments/opinions, but would the current discussion on the fitting of hornblocks be more appropriate in the actual Chassis Jigs topic ? See here: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/156485-chassis-jigs/page/2/ Its where others will look for advice Cheers, Dave,
  4. I've used my new Poppy's 4-axle jig as an aid to chassis assembling, and its certainly an excellent aid. In this instance, I didn't use all the frame spacers in the kit; I made up some new "L" shaped ones, as these are much better at keeping the chassis aligned vertically (photo 2). I soldered the spacers to one side of the chassis first, before putting it in the jig. With a long chassis like this, its too easy to get the frames twisted/curved, but by pushing the whole thing against the side of the jig with a straight edge to solder the second side on, (photo 3) you keep everything flat, straight and right-angled. And it now looks like this:
  5. Brilliant work on all that piping Richard, and it shows the need to build an individual loco. You would probably struggle to find two that were the same! All the best, Dave.
  6. Several "surprise" level crossings on the Wenfordbridge line; in particular Dunmere and Hellandbridge. Check out the Cornwall Railway Society's page on the line here: http://www.cornwallrailwaysociety.org.uk/boscarne-jct-to-bodmin-northalso-the-wenford--ruthernbridge-branches.html
  7. Looks a bit isolated now: https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@52.6127796,1.7241865,3a,47.7y,337.09h,93.94t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sdy1aPJu51AhhxrCTXY0A2g!2e0!7i13312!8i6656
  8. Yes indeed, if you swing that google image round to look at the other side of the road, you can see the stone wall in the foreground of the photo below, with a blue car parked right in front of the loco's location.
  9. Good points Mike. Perhaps I should have added I don't use the GW exclusively. I have three riveters, and use each of them when most appropriate for the job. Agreed, the clamping screws on the GW machine can cause serious damage; I put a strip of pcb between the screws and the metal to spread the load and protect the job. All the best, Dave.
  10. Everyones buying Poppys Jigs! I've just bought one and I'm assembling the Z on it. The GW Riviter is an amazing piece of kit, takes a bit of getting used to though, and sometimes you have to plan your riviting ahead. Because the clamping table doesn't go right up to the anvil, if you are riviting a small part you may have to solder it riviting to another piece of bass and hold that in the clamp. When scratchbuilding (say a sidetank) I have marked eveything out and rivited it before cutting it out. See my Narrow Gauge thread here: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/35253-dlts-ng-workbench-back-to-the-hunslets/&do=findComment&comment=3414404 And here: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/35253-dlts-ng-workbench-back-to-the-hunslets/&do=findComment&comment=2557495
  11. Sorry if I've missed it, but what is the source of your straw lining please? Thanks, Dave.
  12. Hi Richard, That's a superb cab interior, is it all a single casting? Its very detailed for a 4mm kit. Your black painting method is very effective, but what sort of paint have you used for the brass and copper? Thanks, Dave.
  13. I use old-fashioned Fluxite paste for just about every soldering job, except whitemetal https://fernox.com/product/fluxite-paste/ I'm still using the big tin my dad bought in the 1960s Cheers, Dave.
  14. Weight adjustment on a whitemetal 4-4-0 can be awkward. Filling the firebox cavity with lead will make a big difference, I would also persuade bits of lead into any cavity in the chassis there is; above/between/below the frames. Look at the loco from all angles and see where there is a cavity, you will probably find many; add some representation of the bottom of the firebox and ashpan below the frames. The triangular area inside those enormous splashers between the driving wheels, etc, etc. Another method (I haven't tried it myself) is to use the weight of the tender. By getting the front of the tender resting on the rear of the loco, it counterbalances the long heavy front overhang, by adding weight at the rear. Not easy to explain, but looking at this page of the Scalefour Digest: http://www.clag.org.uk/41-0rev.html#section9.2 Section 12.2, and Figure 20 show the principle. I haven't found an online description of how to achieve this on a model, but its a well used solution; pioneered by Mike Sharman with his early Victorian single-wheel-ers All the best, Dave.
  15. I had this issue, thankfully not with all of them, and I like this solution. Whatever you do, DON'T try and screw them too tightly, you will break the crankpin off. (how do I know this...?) I have also had a similar issue with the crankpin not screwing fully into the wheel. Similarly this can be cured by counter-boring the wheel, and/or running a 10ba tap through the wheel, in case the thread isnt fully cut. Cheers, Dave.
  16. Any slop at the outer ends of the jig axles (which look about 4 inches long) will be virtually non-existent at the bearings. I presume the graduations marked on the jig are scale feet? Cheers, Dave.
  17. Meant to say, its the new Highlevel motor.
  18. Motor and gearbox assembled, and runs beautifully with a standard Gaugemaster. The motor is a 1320 round can, and looks really small after working with Mashima flat cans for so long. I want to crack on and assemble the chassis, but having ordered the Poppys Loco Box, I guess I had better wait until it arrives!
  19. Hi Bryan, Just catching up with your Workbench, sorry to hear about your loss on enthusiasm, but it looks like you've got it back! And thanks for your thoughts on the Poppys Loco Box All the best, Dave.
  20. Nice one Jon, I've put an illustrated guide to using that method (for assembling valve-gear rivits, but its much the same) on my Workbench Topic here: Soldering Valve gear Rivits Hope this helps, Cheers, Dave
  21. Interesting project, I will be following. All the best, Dave.
  22. Great stuff Brian, and well done with persevering with that motor and gearbox! If it runs that well on its own, running with the weight of the whitemetal body will be superb. Cheers, Dave.
  23. That is explained in the email with the invoice. The payment choice is bank transfer, or send a cheque.
  24. Stunning stuff Nick, Thanks for sharing. Dave.
  25. I've just ordered a Poppy's Woodtech 8-coupled chassis jig: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/156485-chassis-jigs/ And I'll let you know how I get on with it. Cheers, Dave.
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