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Everything posted by DLT

  1. The usual cause of an RG4 seizing if it hasn't been run, is that the original lubricant has hardened. No need to strip is completely, brush some white spirit into the gears and leave it for a bit. Then try gently turning the gears by hand, and you should be able to work it free. Don't apply power to the motor until the gearbox is free
  2. DLT

    MRJ 285

    "What have the Romans ever done for us???" Sorry....
  3. DLT

    MRJ 285

    I'm blown away by the Moretonhamstead layout.
  4. Quite so, this was an issue many years ago. What I used to do was pull the rims off and glue them back on. You needed to check for and remove any moulding flash on the plastic centres, as this could be a cause of the rims not fitting "true". I expect there are still a lot of the old type around, especially if you are getting them secondhand. Cheers, Dave.
  5. Good photo here of the Grondana coupling in action.
  6. DLT

    EBay madness

    I wondered if they meant £9.50???
  7. DLT

    EBay madness

    What do you make of this one???? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133772124521?hash=item1f2570a169:g:U4YAAOSwILFgrk2J
  8. I thought for a minute that you had "gone 0-gauge", until I recognised the left-over Markits bits!
  9. Excellent project, I've always been fascinated by the ironstone lines. Cheers, Dave.
  10. Heres a recipe for "a couple of bits of pipework"; fairly self-explanatory, three holes drilled in a piece of brass angle, and offcuts of copper wire left over from Markits clack-valves. Soldered from behind and then filed flush Size roughly gauged from photos (it varied a lot) and compared to the model. The assembly is 7mm wide. Super-glued to the chassis frame just below the footplate.
  11. And leave it to soak for a bit. The lubricant in the RG4 gearbox goes hard after a period.
  12. Hi Jack, When the paint chips off the footplate edge, I roughen the edge with an abrasive block (Garryflex) followed by running a brush-full of Carrs metalblack along it, and then matt-black. Do this LAST, just before the loco goes into service! On my narrow gauge locos I'm experimenting with making the footplate edge from black plasticard. The G6 brakegear was in the kit, but if you need SR brakeblocks, Mainly Trains did a very nice etch, now available from Wizard Models: https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/locomotive/mt182/ All the best, Dave.
  13. Stunning work Jack; I'm particularly impressed by your pipework
  14. Just realised I havent done the injectors! However all that is visible in ANY of the photos is a couple of bits of pipework below then footplate.
  15. Just a bit of weathering to add now, plus of course the usual touching up of the footplate edge. How DO you stop the paint chipping???
  16. Chassis completed, brakegear and sandpipes added. Front pickup was a bit too short and not springing enough, so replaced with one that doubles back.
  17. I'm not sure that is strictly the case. As I understand it, a lot of town expansion was planned, and some was already starting to happen in the late 1960s. It was more a case of lack of joined-up thinking; one section of government not knowing what the other was doing.
  18. Interesting article here about BR Lion & Wheels Emblems History And here: BR Loco Crests
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