artizen

In the grand scheme of things the castle isn't all that dominating!!!!

Absolutely astounding level of detail really. For such an ultra-large model (in area and complexity) you are achieving levels of detail to rival purchased kits. Now that is a compliment! Please keep taking the time to record the how-to as well as the finished thing for us to drool over!

Well now I'm confused - apparently this is no longer a "real" location?

Of course, no matter whether you use foam or cork as underlay, the number of wire droppers and turnout connections will still channel noise through to the baseboard. More if you use real ballast on the track. However, this layout is not being operated where noise is an issue(?). Maybe for those of you who are still at the stage of laying track, perhaps using polystyrene or foamcore construction for the baseboards would reduce noise transmission?

You know - I didn't even see Jason's head. It blends it nicely with the background!

I am sure you have enough connections (hint hint) to make the metalwork for the bridge.

The long shot up the street is the go! Wonderfully atmospheric. Just need to PS the big blue screen out of the background!

The last photo is superb. Keep making mistakes - I could look at them every day.

I think the photo should be shot again under a full moon.

Stunning work - again! Always look forward to updates on this epic.

Cool. Knew you were up to the job.

In the photo of the boards stacked face to face, it appears that the end pieces of ply have to overlap which they don't quite do accurately. Are you concerned that adding a permanent backscene board to the back edge will compromise the angle of the end boards the way it is? (By that I mean that there will be stress at the back corner as the end board flexes over the other end board in the stacked position.) Or are you going to pack the bottom so that the problem goes away when storing the boards? I really wish I had built my boards using this technique now. I have separate diorama boards sitting on separate bases. Each base has two legs and associated hardware which has over-complicated the whole design and made it much heavier as well. The heavier the mass you are moving, the more likely to sustain damage in my experience.

I have a computer with a dongle. A very small dongle, but adequate (as the two Ronnies said). Lovely tree. I have five or six trees in 1:24 scale to build so they should be at least 600mm high. Too scared to start but no doubt once I do, it will all become clear to me.

There are some concerns about toxic fumes when extruded polystyrene burns. Here is a quote from this website - http://www.healthyhouseinstitute.com/a-1038-Insulation-Overview Also, many synthetic foam insulating materials release toxic substances when heated and burned. This is one of the reasons fire fighters routinely wear oxygen masks when entering a burning building. Since oxygen masks are rarely available to typical occupants of a burning house, inhaling smoke means breathing toxic gases. In most fires, deaths are not caused by flame contact, but rather due to inhalation of carbon monoxide and other toxics. Building codes require flammable foam insulation be separated from living spaces by fire-resistant materials such as drywall or plaster. When installed improperly, insulation may also cause some electrical fixtures to overheat and start a fire. This is especially true when recessed ceiling lighting fixtures are covered with attic insulation. Instructions supplied with insulation typically specify the proper clearance to be maintained between the insulation and lighting fixtures, furnace flues, water heaters, etc. If a device is not specifically designed to be in direct contact with insulation, proper clearance should be provided to minimize the chance of fire. - See more at: http://www.healthyhouseinstitute.com/a-1038-Insulation-Overview#sthash.Jj5pvr5f.dpuf I am using it for my West of Worcester layout because I wanted something light enough for one operator to carry but if it ever caught fire, I'd be running. Also, one of the railway clubs here was refused insurance because of the high level of polystyrene used in scenery on their club layout. Not trying to be alarmist, but I think everyone needs to know there is a risk.

Yes I just downloaded looked at the photo as well. If I didn't know better I swear it's a photo of Gilbert's layout. Just the finescale track to the left gives it away. Nice work Gilbert (and team).

A barrel something like this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-12-Scale-Large-Wooden-Beer-Barrel-On-A-Stand-Dolls-House-Miniature-Accessory-/171251168944?pt=UK_Dolls_House_Miniatures&hash=item27df5d76b0&_uhb=1

As you know, I live in Australia. If was ever in the UK on holiday and I could get to an exhibition that included your layout, I would try my best to get to see it. Just imagine 60-80 sound diesels in one layout!!!!!!

Anthony, you have a good eye for colour. I would wait until the whole castle is complete and then go back over it with a unifying blend to give it a final patina.

This is starting to look pretty spectacular - but then, I've seen your military modelling as well!

Have to say that the tower looks really good. Better than that piece of shabby timber next to it that you've been hacking at for weeks! This is coming on a treat. Keep posting photos - or we might have to have another meeting at your place.

So that's what the shipping container load of electronics was for!

The viaduct appears to be relatively short. Have you thought of having it laser cut?

Regarding sticking down paper templates. John - have you tried using Blue Stick by UHU?. It seems to have very strong adhesive powers when I use it inappropriately (such as trying to glue aluminium to plywood). Certainly works really well when building Scalescenes kits.

All the punters look so serious! Is it the weather or the sheer number of rivets to be counted?

I think the way Ron has tackled this job is the best combination of cost, time and material choice (IMO). 3D printing is constrained by maximum job size and cost. Soldering it all up in wire(?) - maybe, but you would need to be pretty good at fine intricate work. Printing sub-assemblies on the cutter and combining them - then creating the full model, way to go. I admire the ambition behind this build. I have no room and probably not the patience to do something like this, but boy, do I enjoy hanging on for the ride!