bertiedog

H'mm just what is going on with the pricing of these locos on eBay... some are way over the makers suggested price, some lower, and direct sales from shops are way lower., often post free. Not quite the feeding frenzy of the Peckett or the fiasco and shambles of the L&B. At least it seems a better organised release to a more specialised buyers group. I do hope the Ashover coaches are available this year. Stephen.

Succumbed to the delightful appearance of Peggy, which turned out to be the least expensive version available in non-DCC. last night on the net. Tests on the black version show it can climb 1in25+ gradients OK.with two bogie coaches or four bogie wagons. As the other 009 locos are Talyllyn "Thomas" types from Bachmann, I think the lines setting should be post WW1, as a line rather like Ashover, but retaining the tidied up trestle bridge as the main feature, To ease the gradient required to cross over a line under the bridge, the lower track will be dipped under the bridge, and the depth of the bridge central beam reduced to a minimum. I have some kit Ashover coaches, but see Bachmann has promised RTR versions. All the bogie WW1 stock from Backman can be used along with Peco items. from the L&B etc, The Baldwin is the best shot in the arm that 009 has had so far, with assistance from Peco.... Stephen

This is the picture I have based the WW1 trestle bridge on, and in real life, the transition from the centre span beam to the gradients is very sudden but dealt with by the locos springs and stock wheelbase being short. On the model, the change will have to be adjusted on the gradient to allow for the Bachmann's long chassis. As smooth a transition as possible. Wood all cut out, yards of it! with a plasticard main beam. building off layout for ease of construction. Stephen

As it is DC check with Gaugemaster that it suits coreless, which generate Back EMF that feedback does not like. Some early controllers are also "noisy" with an AC Component added to the DC voltage. This AC will cause the motor to "hunt" and overheat under load also causing a hum. It is curable by adding large value capacitors to the output of the controller, with a new reversing switch. It may be difficult to interrupt the output where reversing is on the board, so extra reverse vital. Many consider coreless to be troublesome like this, but with a plain DC or special coreless controller, they are far superior motors. Stephen.

Gtucker72Assuming DCC as you mention a test track, it is the decoders badly fitted, or faulty, or if other locos also fail a bad controller output. The Bachmann has a coreless motor which requires a dedicated decoder or a decoder that can have the CV settings altered for coreless.motors. Check with the shop that the chip is factory fitted or have they done it themselves. If not original then the right type must be fitted and programmed to suit coreless operation. Stephen.

Exaggerated to show the issue if no effort is made to give easing. If the transition is bad and on a curve, it might derail any such loco. I checked this very carefully as there is a trestle bridge approached by gradients with curves on the new 009 layout. Stephen

Oh dear... yet again short comments are taken somewhat out of context. As I made the points I felt it basic advice for newcomers not experienced users. The minimum radius warning is in comparison with 040 and 060 types of locos that will go around 4-inch radius c6rves once far too common in 009. Most stock will not go realistically around this tight a curve anyway. With flexible track laid by eye, it is very easy to underestimate the radius, and often the curve is elliptical, not truly curved. This should be checked by a track jig, compass or trammel rod. The Bachmann is a relatively long wheelbase but will go around about 5-inch radius with Peco track. If the track is handmade it could do more if the jig used gauge widens in the curve. On causing a slight judder It should be clear it refers to a hump or transitional change of gradient being too sudden. With a load on the rear coupling, on a deliberately bad test hump, the front wheels leave the track and as it regains level track there is a small lurch that does not happen with a 040. The effect is slight and any longer wheelbase loco would do the same. . The Bachmann only does this due to rocking on the front drivers, the C.G. point, when the top of the gradient makes no effort to ease from the slope to the level track. Anyway, the loco was not being criticised in any way, just pointing out that even 009 demands very careful track laying to get the best realistic running. Stephen

The black versions are far more versatile and quite easy to respray to liveries like Peggy. The running is very good, but keep an eye on the minimum radius. Pickups seem good even on the older Peco dead frog points, it sails through the Peco mainline 009 points. Since the L&B supplies dried up from Heljan the 009 layout has been mothballed but with the Bachmann 042 etc from the US range, it can be altered to a less grand size than the L&B and put into use again. Despite the "fixed" nature of the wheel arrangement, it handles slightly bumpy track quite well although a really high bump or transition from a gradient to level can make the chassis rock on the middle wheels. With a load of coaches the effect is a very slight lurch as it crosses the high spot, so keep transitions smooth. Crew figures being fitted, cast metal for the weight, and as many small details as possible around the footplate and cab. The coal space needs filling up with lead shot. The Hunslet etc., when supplied, look even more interesting. Pre-ordered and a second Baldwin on its way. soon. Supplies seem stable at present and the price competitive from most stockists. Stephen

Due mainly to ill health the 3 rail version is dropped and work is being resumed on the two rail No 34 as I get better. Most parts are made so just assembly and insulating the wheels to do next. Stephen.

Strangely considering the initial demand that caught out Hornby out, the new ones are being discounted despite demand and my supplier has notified a further decrease, which would normally indicate an expectation of sluggish sales, which are hardly likely with this popular locomotive. August was quoted but the date is as elastic as ever. Stephen.

It must pre date the original, he got the partial details over the phone, and then invented the missing bits, mind you if you want a vintage 4wheel power bogie and trailing bogie...................

I think it may refer to a plastic and card kit from Japan, some plastic parts and side rods and wheel faces in an embossed stamped out card stock. It may have been Bandai as the maker. I very much doubt any quantity was imported. I did see some plastic kits of Japanese Standard gauge locos at the 1972 NMRA convention in London, and from memory these contained card parts as well as brass. Because of the then relatively recent failure of Kitmaster there was little interest in the Uk. Stephen.

A resistor is neutral it merely delays the increase in voltage causing the motor to start. As soon as the starting voltage is enough the motor moves. The only difference would be the degree of rotation of the control. For a particular current to flow at this voltage the current has to pass through the resistor and heat results. As the resistor has a neutral and basically linear response there is no jump or glitch as the voltage increases. With a diode the voltage lost it set by the loss through a forward biased junction, and is constant, producing heat like a resistor, but it can stand it better. Adding either does not cause bad starting or cure it.

The reason the motors run on "zero" is the controllers' maker has used a voltage regulator IC, which can not control it's output to zero as there would be no reference voltage to allow the circuit to work. Putting diodes in series is the best answer, but you may need a new reversing switch wired in after them and before the track. A back to back pair will work without a new switch. You may need several diodes in series if you use coreless motors. A Resistor could be used, they do not affect starting, but they heat up, unlike diodes. An older trick was to put a six to twelve-volt filament lamp in series, they exhibit high resistance at low voltage, but as the voltage increases the current makes the filament glow and the resistance fails just what is needed. Usually, 12-volt car interior bulbs will work, or side lights, LED car lamps do not work. Stephen. Stephen.

Even in 7mm the Bolt heads are not going to look much different to an impressed rivet on a brass ring. A one-inch hex head would be .6 mm approx., far too small to do as a hex nut or bolt. The iron wheel castings are all done, just waiting for balance weights in brass sheet to be glued on with epoxy glue and filler in the gaps. The trailing wheels are stainless steel bar turned in the lathe. Stephen

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2PCS-DC-12V-6500RPM-Large-Torque-6-Pole-Rotor-Minebea-15MM-Square-Motor-for-Toy/252631354230?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Quartering is easy, just do not make it seem over complex, by eye, by a jig, or school protractors mounted on a board, or use Romford Markit wheels. A good flat su3race plate is needed, glass or stone ( granite composite chopping board from Poundland or Wilko) Set one side to have the pin down, in line with axle centre, use protractor plate. And the set the other side to 90 degree on one wheel, again in line with the axle and then set the others to match. As long as the side rods were drilled using the frames as a jig, they should sit on and the lot turn smoothly. NEVER try to cure binds by drilling out the coupling rod holes till it runs!!! But do expect the rods to be a loose fit in the crankpins to allow a little give and play, just enough, not tight or sloppy. Also a fatal error is to assume all the crankpins are the same throw, makers slip up drilling the crankpin holes or use crude crankpins or bushes that are not concentric. Markit make a particularly accurate type in the deluxe version. Stephen

I have found a couple of the six pole motors stored away, to try and test, and they are really very smooth runners. The only point against them is the overall power is a little lower than others of the same size, with the current proportionally lower as well. I was mainly using the small Mitsumi, but this motor is better made, and suits all but large 00 pacific locos etc. The Ebay listing I got them from did not show the internals, nor claim 6 poles. Quite a useful motor. and about £1.25 or so each........incredible value. Stephen

Thinking back, Pop Keyser of K's made an early 6 pole motor that looked like the MK1 or Mk 11, and used the same outline, putting two sets of armature stampings on the same shaft, but staggered.. K's design bears a close resemblance to Castle Arts effort. It only lasted a few months in production, too expensive to make. Lindsay in the States offered 6 and12 pole motors made by Pittman in the early 1950's, killed off by cost. Stephen

This form of six pole motor is arranged with two pairs of magnets, giving in effect two three pole motors on one shaft. Each magnet pair is out of phase and overlaps giving self-starting. This makes the motor very smooth as the magnet field being split up makes for less cogging. Six pole are noted as powerful for the overall size, it is after all two motors in one. The other form of 6 pole has two six pole armatures on the same shaft, with a gap left between them in the centre, and the windings are staggered around the poles on each end as pairs. This in effect is the same as having dual magnets. This type was used in the Castle Arts Gaiety loco in the 1950's 6 pole were once common with field coil motors, where the field coils were divided to make four field magnets. The four magnet solution used in the Ebay motor only became possible as magnets improved. Stephen.

Motors of the plain pole tyes must have an odd number of poles to self-start, but six pole are made that self-start due to offset magnets and a biased armature, with a centre gap to allow the windings to be staggered. It is expensive to wind a 6 pole and frankly, at the low price, these cannot be 6 poles. These appear to be a high-quality 5 pole, but I have not taken one apart to confirm it. https://www.ebay.co....353.m2749.l2649 Stephen

Interesting comments, which can apply to a lot of Far Eastern goods, In this case, the irons actually work OK though, it is the rating of the elements working voltage that is at fault. The basic type offered has an insert tip, held by screws, and can have the tip exchanged for phosphor bronze rod etc., easily. Tne standard tip is plated steel, and if correctly tinned and maintained lasts well. But there are better made irons with push on tips etc and the leading types nowadays are the soldering station types. The Chinese make copies of the Japanese originals. Again it is true the copies are sometimes miss described in both the adds and instructions, but they work. The problems come from translation and lack of understanding the regulation standards by the factory. Most Chinese production is based on selling goods as ordered, to a specification. They did not originate equipment, nor make copies or fakes, they made what Western Companies ordered. High-quality items are made, all Apple equipment is Chinese, such production has resulted in expertise that has improved the specs of non-branded goods. The high spec stuff for Western brands have strict standards and backup like instructions, the low-end clones are often identical, but sold direct from Hong Kong etc, with no effort at description or understanding of standards. Ebay attracts the direct sellers and the troubles start with seemingly false statements, bad translation, and odd claims. We should not run around shouting out they are all fakes etc, when it is not the product that is fake, but the marketing. However, there still lurks under all of this downright dishonest and unsafe goods as well. It is a murky area and before we call in the authorities, it must be remembered the self-same factories make the respected branded goods for the West as well. The Western branded manufacturers rely on cheap sourced goods to stay in business these days, they set a spec and the Chinese meet it. The troubles come as the Chinese are learning to sell direct. Western makes are not going to ever compete on basic items, it must be confined to more complex and exotic goods for Western productions. On soldering equipment, the current Euro makers are not, in general, better made until very expensive makers are involved. The main problem we have with all soldering on models is the user, not the equipment. Lack of experience, half learnt techniques, and plain bad practices are the bane of good soldering. Add in miss described FE goods and it becomes a minefield, literally so, if so bad as to make the equipment lethal in some way. Stephen.

Further checking on Bang good and Ebay shows this problem is getting more widespread. The Chinese get away with LED lamps at the wrong voltage, as the electronics inside can cope with a wide range. But soldering irons must have ratings adhered to, or they burn out very rapidly indeed. The SCR circuits mentioned are light dimmers or power controllers from Ebay, not a home built unit. As the irons are low wattage any type above the irons rating will do. If you do not fancy making a case, there are self-contained units with a UK socket on the front, just plug in The reason I wanted several irons was to deal with the many soft solder types and leaving the tip tinned with the right type of solder to prevent cross-contamination. Stephen

Any news of the other versions......my shop seems in the dark, as Bachmann just say they are on the way.... Stephen

A quick warning about the current spate of cheap soldering irons on Ebay. a lot of the cheapest come with a US style two pin plug, and the suggestion to use with a travel adaptor in the UK. What they fail to clearly mention is that they are 110volts, not 220/240 volts and run at twice the rating. On one or two listings they do refer to the adaptor not altering the voltage, but it is very wrong to supply the wrong type. Personally, I noticed at once it was too hot and wired it via an SCR circuit to reduce the UK mains to 110 volts. The nuisance is returning to China but even a Uk based distributor is selling these. With the controller in line, they do make nice low melt soldering irons, and other than the element rating are well made. Stephen.