Scottish Modeller

Hi all, I have 2 of these to restre/rejuvenate/update. One of them dates from the 1980's and has details applied that were available at the time. Over the time since the model has been well used (and abused) both paint and details now need a refresh or replace. These are the stock Athearn models of 5415 and 5637. I know that the detailing parts used on 5415 were not accurate, but they were what was available at the time from MGS. I will also need some new bogie sideframes as the existing ones are cracked and spliting - even afer using epoxy to try and save them. Where to start? Looking at what was done in the past.... Replace light units. add bell, change/add plough to both ends, add etched plates to footwalks, replace handrail stanchions, add correct pattern air horns, add lights to running boards at both ends. change vents on body 5 total, (2 dynamic plus 3 air) replace air cooler side vents. That's quite a list to be getting on with - and I need to do it twice..... Thoughts, ideas, part sources - need loads of info! Thanks Phil H

Hi all, The only (tenuous) link is that people who order stuff that is in stock get the items fairly quickly. If your order includes items that Jim is out of stock of - then the delays start. In the past my conversations with Jim on stock availability he has confirmed some of his lead times are in the region of 12 weeks. In the case of nameplates, after that peiod has passed, there is a further delay because they have to be cleaned, painted asnd then finished before they can be sent out. Jim needs help - hence his request for someone local to work with him. Thanks Phil H

Hi all, I put an order in between Xmas and New Year - knowing that there would be no supply until the New Year. Despite this, my order was acknowledged and landed on the doormat on the 10th of January with everything I had ordered (all N Gauge). Thanks Phil H

Hi all, More to report on this project shortly.... At the mement I am still looking for photos of the real coaches I am modelling. In particular........ Photos showing the ends of the coaches as, (like all DHR stock) there is a lot of variation - even between coaches in the same batch. For example - 362, 363 and 364, whilst of the same design, have differences in what and where the end detail is placed plus the shape of pipework and wiring. These things are what make each coach stand out in it's own right. I'm already scouring the web and looking at photos that have been published in books, magazines etc in an attempt to get this right. Thanks Phil H

Hi all, Some photos.... Type C van 2nd Class Coach Brake/Luggage coach Photos of 1st Class AC coach to come later Thanks Phil H

Hi all, I am aware of 2 references to this company. See linked info https://discovery.nationalarchives.gov.uk/details/r/3b1ac759-1bdb-414b-bd6b-73a5db08382f https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165189292148 There is also a reference to the company in the journals of the Haddingtonshire and East Lothian Antiquarian Society. These were held at Haddington library but not available to the public. They were available, but at some point in the early 90's someone damaged them and took some pages out for their own use. That was why they were taken out of the public view. Thanks Phil H

Hi Simon, Which variety of Tuscan Red? There are at least 4 defined PRR colours that are classed as 'Tuscan Red' and they cover a wide time period and even then, varied between the works that did the paint jobs. Useful link... http://jbritton.pennsyrr.com/index.php/tpm/latest-articles-blog/121-paints-to-match-prr-paints Thanks Phil H

Hi all, Nickel Silver work hardens with heat.... Phil H

Hi Mol, There is a topic on here already Without rolling bars - you will struggle...... Is there a club near you - ask if they have some Are there other modellers near you - ask them If you are close to me - I have a set that will take the size you are trying to roll. Thanks Phil H

Hi there, I will find and scan for you tomorrow... Phil H

Hi all, I use a pin/needle in the pyrograve tool I have, then a small drill bit in a pin chuck. The heat creates a nice dimple whick locates the drill bit in the proper position. I don't use a power tool as it's too easy for the drill to wander off from the position you want. Thanks Phil H

Hi all, Company Information and links Precision Model Works https://www.facebook.com/indianmodeltrains Catalogue/Price List and Order Form https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vRcnMbahnW1yXqvkXk4FEM2tve9P2MTOfqZBTAtc1sNeJMPefnhI_iStSMMwZiyeYax84-NBtDmwWGn/pub DHR Products available DHR NDM6 Diesel Locomotive OO9-NDM6-DHR603 and OO9-NDM6-DHR604 HOE-NDM6-DHR603 and HOE-NDM6-DHR604 DHR AC Coach - Kalka built - 921 OO9: OO9-DHR-KLK-AC HOe: HOE-DHR-KLK-AC DHR 2nd Class Coach - Kalka Built - 364 OO9-DHR-KLK-2 - for OO9 version HOE-DHR-KLK-2 - for HOe version DHR Brake/Luggage - 154 OO9-DHR-KLK-2LB HOE-DHR-KLK-2LB DHR Type C Van HOE-DHR-GD-C OO9-DHR-GD-C Also produce a larger range on Indian Railways stock - various gauges. Thanks Phil H

Hi all, Back to the DHR stock! Lots of new stock has appeared o the market. DHR 'C' Van Models available from Shapeways as JBM products and from PMW. Both versions turn out to be from the same creator - Jeremiah Bunyan and appear to be identical. Choice is up to you! Buy from Shapeways or buy from PMW in India. Thanks Phil H

Hi all, The sleeping giant awakes! Back on the DHR builds again - coaches, wagons and an A Class locomotive. Since my last postings there have been a lot of developments in models available for the DHR in 009 - so much stuff that I could write a full article if I wanted to! So, where to start? Coaches..... New from PMW - made in India. Luggage/Brake 2nd Class 1st Class AC Thanks Phil H

Hi Les, The answers to your questions are all in the documentation on the NGS website. http://www.ngaugesociety.org/sandpit/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/NGS-Hunslet-DCC-Manual-v1.01-released-Aug-2020.pdf Thanks Phil H

Hi Bryn, Thanks for your efforts - much appreciated. I'll be in touch with Stephen about the Dogfish later on. I'll keep an eye out for the Mermaid coming back into the 2FS shop - The guys who I am doing the 2FS GWR/BR BLT are wanting the Mermaids for the layout. Thanks Phil H

Hi Bryn, You bad... Getting my hopes all excited as been after some of these since last ones were listed. Also after some of his Dogfish as well.... Will have to be hopefull and patient again! Phil H

Hi there, Yes - sometimes this does not work for me as well. I got round it by making a Powerpoint file with the slide size set to a4 landscape then inserted the photos into it and enlarginging each image to the full page size with minimum margins. Phil H

Hi Rich, I used thin foam rubber as an underlay for the track and put it down whilst the sealer was still sticky. The SMP copperclad track base was then stuck to the foam rubber with copydex as that sticks but doesn't soak through the foam rubber. I kept and used the layout for 5 years without having any problems with track movement and then sold it. Some time later I saw it at an exhibition and the track didn't appear to have been changed. Thanks Phil H

Hi Rich, As a rule - I always treat laser cut ply or mdf the same. Do any work on them cutting/shaping/drilling/glueing etc first. Then seal all surfaces before going any further. In the past I used Klear as it was available. Now I've started to use a polyurathene sealer instead - make does not matter, they all do the same job. This does make doing surface work (like paintng) more difficult as it cannot soak into the base material anymore. Thanks Phil H

Hi James, A bit big for me - but looking good.... A question though.... Was the dentist based in Yorkshire - possibly Bradford/Leeds? I'm asking as I visited one of my model engineering pals in the late 70's and he was building one of these andhad already built a Class B and a DHR Railcar for the same customer. Thanks Phil H

Hi all, Well - I'm back on the DHR theme again - only this time all for myself. Some time ago I built some baseboards for an intended model of Rangtong Station and it's approaches. Now - I've dug those out of the storage space and had a fresh look at them, I'll need to do some renovations before they can be used. But, the intent is to get the layout made and to a showabe level. The motivation to get on with thei is the range of new models that have (or will) hit the market. No longer do you need to rely on Worsley Works and Langley Models to get the motive power and stock that is needed for a DHR model layout. Yes - it's all the fault of models becoming available from various 3D Print outlets. So, more to come over the next few weeks. Thanks Phil H

Hi all, I have this problem as well... No one will take them off me - not even in exchange for filled ones. When checked they were found to be out of date - the Safety Test date had passed and Calor would not take them as a result. In the end I used the gas up from them at the inlaws smallholding - shed warmers for chickens. I then vented them and filled them with water to flush them out. They were then converted to bases for outdoor lamps by emtying the water out and filling with cement. So - there you have a possible solution! Thanks Phil H

Hi there Progress always feels good! Peco wheelsets are usually 'a standard' - so, what are you comparingthe B2B against? Wheels with tyres coming off can be sorted and still be straight on the wheel. A simple jig is the answer. I use a piece of hardwood that I have hard varnished and drilled a series of holes in - from memory 1.5mm, 2.0mm and 2.5mm. The wheelrim is placed over whichever hole is the same size as the axle with the flange at the top. The pinpoint end of the axle with wheel centre is then inserted into the wheelrim and gently pushed home. Once happy with its position a tiny amount of superglue is the put into the slight gap between the wheel centre and the wheel rim - I use a cocktail stick to pick up the small amount needed as this makes it easier to place accurately. Hope this is all helping! Remember - we all had to learn at some point or other...... Phil H

Practice makes perfect..... Depending on what the chassis origins are ... Most of the RTR chassis use a fairly flexible plastic of the nylon type and the wheelsets can be popped out with a bit of muxcle. Chassis under kits are a different thing and don't often use that nylon type material. It's more difficult to get wheelsets out of these without damage to the chassis, but it can be done. On this type of chassis the instructions usually say to insert wheelsets before assembling the final chassis side and that's why it's more difficul to take them out again. On this type chassis I cut a V into the plastic of the suspension/W-Iron as this makes it easier to get the wheelsets in or out once the chassis is fully assembled. For etched chassis getting the wheelsets in or out isn't as much of a problem due to the more flexible etched suspension/w-irons. The most difficult situation is with cast metal suspension/w-irons as there is no flexibilty in the materials and force can cause the castings to break. Over the years I've tried different solutions to this and the best results come from cutting the suspension/w-irons off and modifying them by cutting springs/axleboxes off and replacing the suspension support with either etched or sheet metal with the components solder to it. Thanks Phil H