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Steadfast

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Blog Comments posted by Steadfast

    Pugsley

    Posted

    Nice one - it's interesting to read how someone else goes about something I'm relatively familiar with, as there are always differences and "user preference" to consider.

    For example, I'd never considered using Vector graphic software, instead using Photoshop. I draw to the DPI required by the guy who does my ALPS printing, whether it'll be ALPS or home printed, as it maintains a standard. Font matching is always rather satisfying in the end :lol:

    Reminds me I'd better crack on with my FGW graphics...

    Steadfast

    Posted

    Bachmann stuff is a lot easier dismantle, let me tell you that! :lol:

    I know what you mean, whilst most Dapol stuff is great, Farish stuff usually seems to have a slight edge, particularly in terms of decoration. At the end of the day though, it's all a great leap on from the Poole era stuff.

    Now I've removed my DB red proof shades, after tea I'll be doing some more decal artworks for the FGW projects

    Steadfast

    Posted

    Victor and Margaret (08948 and 08947) were Old Oak shunters, and were named as far as I'm aware after Victor Meldrew and his wife from the tv.

    Howie was applied to one side of 08947, though I'm not sure the background to this. I assume it was applied after leaving Old Oak Common, the earliest I have seen it is January '98 at Didcot

    http://gareth-higgins.fotopic.net/p23815495.html

    Hope that explains things a bit :lol:

    Steadfast

    Posted

    Hi Mark,

    Yeah, I'm a fan of the livery too - I like spotting all the places I've been to! It's good the way the various FGW liveries pull the franchise together, but retain some individuality

    The worst part with the transfers (so far) is sitting there typing it all in, but it's easily done sat on the lasptop with a brew and something on tv. I know the fade is doable with paint, I just hope the transfers come up to scratch. Test, and test again methinks

    I've seen the Anitcs 153 advertised, but a combination of things made me go for my own. First up, I'm trying to improve the look of the 153 model, and I find it easier to do a full repaint to hide such work, and give me a blank canvas to work with. Then there's the price, not cheap! Also, there is no guarantee on seeing the quality of the printwork beforehand. Finally, and most importantly, I know the colours between my 150 and 153 will match B)

    Must get some better pictures taken, hopefully before work tomorrow...

    Steadfast

    Posted

    Thanks guys! Hopefully the concept of a small slice of something huge will work out well!

    Pete, the track is actually a Peco inspection pit with their code 55. I had it out as I was using it for the head on shots of the 67 on t'other blog. The track on the layout will be Peco code 55 (I know, I know, but I have loads of it sat around, and since it's my first layout I thought it'd be simpler) with the shed area kitted out with Peco pits. The pits will be at ground level, with the floor around them recessed, to allow fitters to work on the running gear without bending down etc, if that makes sense?

    justin1985

    Posted

    I started off thinking I would thin down the ploughs width-wise as well, but looking at prototype shots again, I was wondering if in fact the width was correct. On the prototype it does look wider than I'd expected. However looking logically, it seems like in reality it should be about half way between the width where the bottom of the cab tapers, and the full width before it tapers. On the model it is the same width as the body, so perhaps 0.5mm on each side?

    It's a weird one, sat with mine in front of me now, I reckon the fact that the coupler gap in the middle is too wide makes the rest of the plough look too wide.

    I'm not intending to change the livery or renumber, so I'm planning to leave the cab alone - I don't think its as noticeable as the lack of bodyside tumblehome, but then I'm not going to do anything about that either!

    The rainstrip is on the separate roof moulding though, so I probably will thin that down before I weather the roof.

    The dodgy cab front will be hidden against the 150 on mine, even with a respray I don't think it's easily correctable. Again, now the model is in my hand, I think the rain strip is fixable,I'd assumed the rivets should continue further down, and that the rain strip was a work of fiction, but a bit of file worrk will improve things.

    How are you planning to couple the 153 to the 150? Add a scharfenberg to the 150, or a rapido to the 153?

    I'm popping the Scharfenberg off the big cab end onto the 150, and using the Farish detailing kit (including plough probably) in it's place with a set of TPM horns. This way the Dapol ploughs are hidden inside, like the dodgy cab front

    I'm not sure whether to work on the underframe or not at the moment

     

    jo

     

     

    justin1985

    Posted

    Hi Justin,

    Great project - I've got a dummy to semi-permanently couple with a Farish 150, and as part of this I've been looking at a similar detailing job as well as a respray, so I'm watching yours with interest!

    It's good to see that the ploughs clean up so well with a quick blast of a file. One thing I'd suggest is to narrow them down aswell while the files are out. Comparing them to the 150, and prototype pics, they seem to be 1mm or so too wide either side. I'll be interested to see how you get the glazing out, as this, and separating the body and chassis have me stumped at the mo...

    The more I look, the more there seems to be to do, I'd like to remove the rain strip and flush the cab front at the small cab end for starters, but I think these are too much work to do without wrecking the model

    Good luck!

    jo

    Steadfast

    Posted

    Thanks for the kind words guys - it helps get the va va voom back when you're struggling to make progress!

    Jon - it's always interesting to see how techniques transfer between different applications, be it military, cars, railways or even non modelling all together! Sometimes, something that isn't the prescribed way to do it may seem alien, but works as well, if not better than other techniques. And if you didn't realise it's N, then I'm wowed!:lol:

    Martin, some of the washes and streaks you've achieved with gouache in the past have really helped to get my head around the stuff, though there's no substitute to trying it yourself :D I wasn't that impressed when I played a couple of years ago, but I seem to have stumbled across a technique that works for me now. They do seem good for creating a dusty look, like a light spray of poop track dirt on loco sides

    Not sure about Taunton yet though, will be in touch;)

    Steadfast

    Posted

    Thanks for the comments guys - I'm still experimenting with gouache myself, sometimes it works, others it doesn't, but it is nice and forgiving :D

    James, what I've found with the gouache is because of the streaking effect, you can get a line thinner than a brush stroke, so in N it's actually easier than enamels. I used to be a 100% enamel person, but I've diversified, though I still swear by Railmatch enamel for spraying. Dad said to me earlier about dirt varying with scale and the 67 looking right - the subtle shade and tone variation is unachievable in other media, at least for me, so it's well worth having a play

    Steadfast

    Posted

    Hi Pete,

    The hardest part is because the nose is curved in both directions, and there is no moulding line to follow, unlike doors etc. I estimated the size from photos, and drew this on a piece of masking tape which was cut out and stuck on the model. When this looked right, I chain drilled roughly to size, then cleaned up with a knife and file. I overdid the filing a bit, but some plastic strip soon put it right!

    The coupling is a piece of brass tube (just over 1mm diameter IIRC, I think the prototype is about 6 inches dia) with a loop of 0.2mm wire soldered into the end. The mounting inside the nose allows it full movement up, down, left and right. I'll take a picture when it comes back out, as it's only test fitted to see if it works at the moment. Basically a piece of scrap etch was folded up, with various bits of wire to act as pivots

    Go for it - a bit of enhancement work really shows that the Farish HST is the right shape, just lacking in detail, and does scrub up well. I was even more pleased with taking this route when I heard the Dapol HST is likely to be in the region of £170!

    Steadfast

    Posted

    Thanks James! Yeah I know what you mean about the 153, both models look like one at first glance, but look again...Hmm. The 150 on the other hand...:lol:

    For Laira I need to do another power car or two, 4-6 mk3s, the sprinters mentioned above and a 66 and TTAs. All of this I have, just needing stripping, detailing and repainting, bar the oil train, which is ready to go. Still need to buy another 08, but I may well use the BR blue one for the short term.

    Additional stuff like a Cotswold Rail 47 and barriers can be brought in over time in the future, but the stuff above is the "core" fleet. Not much to it for a change!

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