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  • Location
    On the very edge of Europe - west Cornwall
  • Interests
    LNWR - South Wales circa 1910, EM gauge.
    Longbridge Austin 7's (1923-34).

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  1. In use by most Railway Companies from 1903, though I have adapted this for my own LNWR interests, but basically same for others including (within reason?) the Midland......
  2. In Bill Bedford's (excellent) second photo of Carr Wagon Works, I'm surprised there's not a runner wagon or similar to safeguard the overhanging planks of the wagon in the foreground.
  3. Quote Compound2632 "... The thing that kit manufacturers never include in the price is the entertainment value of the time one spends building the kit - which might be between 90 minutes and 5 hours,...." That's quick....
  4. The Combi delivers < 12V. The bespoke controllers I have from some 40+ years ago are delivering < 16V, both types from a 18VAC supply. Having had a couple of problems, though unrelated to the electronics, with my own controllers and the person I'm doing the control panel for has requested Combi's + the Ammeters, I thought I would try the Combi's, especially as I now have 5 at an average cost of £15 each. That loss of < 4V between my old controllers and the Combi's means my loco's have a reduced top speed, in fact I might almost have to reduce the gear ratio's to get a decent spee
  5. 2 Ammeters arrived today from China?, both ordered as centre zero up to 1 amp either way. One as above t'other sweep zero to 1 amp only... I've been offered a £2 refund? Looking on Ebay, this supplier seemed to be the only one for these ammeters, all under different names, but John Sun's is the final address for all of them.
  6. Not really relevant, but I wonder why Combi's have a RED LED to show that the power is being delivered to the track. The LED gets brighter the more voltage going through. 'Red' to me is 'danger', a short or similar, I find these LED's distracting. On my own hand held bespoke walk-a-bout controllers, I have a small green LED to show there's power to it - it doesn't vary, it source is straight from the input voltage (circa 15v DC).
  7. Porcy Mane, Thank you. I have an old Scalespeed controller in a separate box I use for test purposes, and on the face there's a also couple of (small) sockets for a Multimeter to plug into with a switch for either Volts or Ammeter testing. Had that a few years (40+ ?) now.
  8. Porcy Mane, many thanks, that looks the way to go for a de-constructed Combi. I shall also buy in a couple of centre zero's mentioned by kitpw, they look useful for this particular project. . Many thanks to you all for your help and observations, much appreciated.
  9. AC, the rectifier is tucked away between a heat sink and the 'main' board.
  10. I have been asked to build a couple of control panels incorporating cables to 'Combi' hand held controllers, and to include on the panels an ammeter for each controller, so the said person can see if the loco's etc., are drawing a sensible electric load, and are 'live' in section. The accepted practice would be to put the ammeter in circuit before the change over switch, but obviously the circuitry is all self contained (and difficult to get at) in the Combi hand held controller, even when I've 'de-constructed' them? I see you can get ammeters with a + / - reading (centre zero), though the
  11. I still have my guide from 1959. (Dated, 1957 edition) The four adverts at the back are for W&H Models, K's, CCW and Douglas Models (Halifax). 1s 3d, a lot of money in those days, uhmn, Pint of Mild was about a shilling, Rough Cider was 9p, in 1959 - memories of a misspent youth .
  12. I've just had a look and it's Humbrol 24 on the 'old' tin (about 30 years old and still useable). I see I have two tins of 27, both a darkish Grey, but definitely different Greys. Ones relatively new - English origin and gooy, the others about 25 years old and in good condition. So, my apologies on that. Sometimes I have a numeracy block, which considering I use to be good at Maths, is a bit of a bind.
  13. I also cut some grooves in the lead with a sharp point to form a better key for the Araldite (Other brands......). I have some wagons where the lead has been there 40+ years.
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