RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted July 29, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 29, 2015 Chris P, I remembered the brand of tapes. It is Chartpak. Mine are 1/32" and they come in a variety of colours.I also use Trimline by MicroTechnics and there are the very useful decal lines from Hannants Thanks Paul, much appreciated, I find now that when I start something I try and have as much stuff on hand to finish as I hate being stalled on a project, like Mike I enjoy "teaking" but lining is something I really don't and have tended to weather so as to cover it (not successfully either) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thanks Paul, much appreciated, I find now that when I start something I try and have as much stuff on hand to finish as I hate being stalled on a project, like Mike I enjoy "teaking" but lining is something I really don't and have tended to weather so as to cover it (not successfully either) You are most welcome CHris P. I totally agree with Mikkel's sentiments about "Pragmatic Pre-Grouping". I also use various colours of trimline and, a very cheap source of material, the tile decals available on ebay. I don't know what they are like on tiles but as a source of solid block colour, which can be cut very thinly and is self-adhesive, they are superb. I also use them on my printed coach sides Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 As an aside, I bought 2 pairs of the GNR guard's duckets off shapeway, as mentioned elsewhere on this topic. I was lucky enough to get free shipping and think the parts are very good indeed 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted July 29, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 29, 2015 Hi Paul, that's good to know, I'm pleased you like them (I'm the Jason you corresponded with). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Hi Paul, that's good to know, I'm pleased you like them (I'm the Jason you corresponded with). Jason, It's pleasant to find a good product that is also so topical. I am using Ian Kirk sides; I just wish I had some ends as well. Hope it helps others doing the same Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thanks Paul, much appreciated, I find now that when I start something I try and have as much stuff on hand to finish as I hate being stalled on a project, like Mike I enjoy "teaking" but lining is something I really don't and have tended to weather so as to cover it (not successfully either) Chris P, Could I have a list of the items you are selling please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thanks Paul, much appreciated, I find now that when I start something I try and have as much stuff on hand to finish as I hate being stalled on a project, like Mike I enjoy "teaking" but lining is something I really don't and have tended to weather so as to cover it (not successfully either) Chris P, I never weather pre-Grouping items except wagons. Most railway companies kept their passenger locos and coaches very clean as a matter of prestige and labour was cheap. I know this aspect has been discussed elsewhere and do not mean to reopen it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Seeing the discussion on lining I thought I would try using the old dodge of Magic Tape. A length was stuck to some scrap styrene then sprayed with Halford's (actually I think that should be Halfords') Vauxhall Mustard Yellow, not to be a more accurate colour, but simply because I had some. The sprayed tape, after drying, was cut into thin strips and applied to the model, then the tape sealed in place with Klear. With practice I could hopefully become more consistent in my line thicknesses, but it is fiddly work. Alternatively I could use the extra time it would take to practice my bow pen skills: Of all the various spray treatments I have used on the cards to waterproof them, by far my favourite is good old Halfords' grey primer (no I do not have shares in them). Why grey? Well it is very easy to see what the coverage looks like and also makes the glue during the laminating stage more visible and is therefore less strain on the eyes. For obvious reasons both back and front are sprayed and for this I usually do the back first. Why the primer? It is more tolerant if too much is sprayed so does not hide detail. When I first started these kits I used a number of different glues, however I now do the majority of the construction with PVA (the exception is gluing the guard's glazing for which I use 5 minute epoxy). PVA comes in many varieties, the one I use is relatively cheap craft washable available in 1 ltr bottles. To laminate the various layers, the washable pva is diluted with the minimum water I think I can get away with to make it runny, probably in the region of 40% water to 60% pva, the layers loaded in the assembly jig, and the pva applied around all the joints as previous illustrated. Continual brushing removes the excess and the parts where glue has wicked under the laminations becomes sticky and the layers will eventually stick together. Once most of the glue appears to have taken and all the surplus removed, I remove the laminated panels from the jig, wrap them in cling film (so they don't stick to the workbench or weight) and place a heavy book on them for a couple of hours. Once well and truly dried, the little attachments for the lower panelling are nipped of with a knife blade, then the whole side given a spray coat of white primer, before finally getting a colour coat of Volkswagen Orange. Painting can then progress as before. I don't bother now with tacky glue as I usually have some normal PVA that has thickened up in my dish. The PVA in all its variations is always applied with a brush any any excess wiped off. After a while the mixing dish will have dried pva glue all over it. No problem, soak it in water and the glue will desolved allowing the dish to be cleaned out ready for use again. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 1, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2015 Hi Mike I can't get Halfords primer over here. Is there something special in it that makes the card waterproof, or are all/most car primers good for this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 I would give whatever you can get locally a try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 2, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 2, 2015 ...and if I can indulge you again, what is magic tape? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 http://www.scotchbrand.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/ScotchBrand/Scotch/Products/Catalog/~/Scotch-Magic-Tape-Refill-Rolls?N=4335+7578040+3294603596&rt=rud Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 2, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 2, 2015 Ah, cheers, I actually have some of that Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 One of Dragon Models GNR Monograms applied to one of the lower panels: 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FelixM Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Does anyone know what chassis may be suitable for these D3D body kits? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Does anyone know what chassis may be suitable for these D3D body kits? You might try cutting a Ratio chassis a little.I do this frequently although I like using heavier bogies, such as the Westward range from Puffers', now in North Yorkshire. They are made of white metal and provide a nice, heavy low centre of gravity Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 A while back I was asked what I did with respect to adding seating. At the time I responded that I left the interiors bare, just painted the partitions black. One of the problems with regard seating is sourcing seats of the right size and form. In the end I decided to try making my own, and given that the kits are generally made of card, decided to use card as well. Seats were drawn up in Inkscape matching the dimensions specified for the Howlden stock. I have assumed that the first class seats are blue and third class red based on the various restored GNR coaches, however if someone can confirm otherwise, they are easily changed. Here the seats have been printed onto some 200gsm card: A single seat has been cut out after the card was sprayed with UV fixing spray. Scribe lines for folding have been pressed in using the back of the scalpel blade at the positions shown: The seat is now folded up and the rear glued together with a glue stick. Hopefully the basic shape can be seen here: Unfortunately the front fold is very visible so has been touched in with a coloured pencil: Here is one of the 1st class seats: So they are fairly crude. From what I can tell the partitions were glossy white to which luggage racks were attached. There do not appear to be any mirrors or posters, so I have included a representation of the luggage racks just in case they can be seen when added to the coach. Both 1st and 3rd class feature button upholstery, but I cannot guarantee that they feature the correct number of buttons (makes a change from counting rivets). A pdf file containing the seats is attached and I will get around to producing one for the wider vehicles. Enjoy. Seats - 7foot6inch.pdf 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Every time I try and photograph a side which has been grained with my oil technique, the photographs never do it justice, and it always looks far better in the flesh. Having said that, a scan on the other hand represents it quite well: 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2750Papyrus Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Every time I try and photograph a side which has been grained with my oil technique, the photographs never do it justice, and it always looks far better in the flesh. Having said that, a scan on the other hand represents it quite well: GNR Teak.jpg Any updates on these models - underfames, etc? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 No, I have gone as far as I intend with these kits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steaurtce Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 Hi Mike I hope that you do not mind me asking but looking at your previous post and a general inquiry have you done anything with regards to the under frames or not as the case maybe I am looking at doing a yeast van from this range and I have been looking at the various other items that are necessary to complete this kit so any suggestions welcomed? Best Regards Steaurt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 Try this: 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWsTrains Posted May 31, 2023 Share Posted May 31, 2023 (edited) On 26/06/2015 at 17:42, gr.king said: The fact that you found it necessary, or at least desirable, to alter the construction of the assembly jig before you could make a proper start doesn't boost my impression of the kit so far. No doubt the model will be good, you'll see to that of course. Using the Smart Frame in 2023 I found no problems, all slotted together perfectly. (Edit: I see the OP reported this in his later topic) @MikeTrice thanks for these most useful posts, helping me with my two Siphon builds for Upper Hembury. Colin Edited May 31, 2023 by BWsTrains correction Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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