34theletterbetweenB&D Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Thoughts and comments are always welcome!... Go on, close up the loco to tender spacing so the fall plate covers the gap and rests on the tender step. For me this truly makes the most of the better RTR models we get now. You may have to shorten the moulded on intermediate buffers on the tender drag box to enable the ensemble to go round curves. I too like the effect of the NER dome cover. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaymzHatstand Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Go on, close up the loco to tender spacing so the fall plate covers the gap and rests on the tender step. For me this truly makes the most of the better RTR models we get now. You may have to shorten the moulded on intermediate buffers on the tender drag box to enable the ensemble to go round curves. I too like the effect of the NER dome cover. Thanks, the tender gap will be adjusted once I have my roundy-round layout built and I know what sort of curvature I'll be dealing with. The fallplate will sit on the tender as it is, I just hadn't put it down for the photo, but I heartily agree on the smaller gaps improving appearance. Cheers J 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Jaymz, I put the fall plate down on mine most times I run it and find that it is back in the up right position after running. The curves and gradients on my layout are about radius 2 to radius 3 (I have never really measured them but they are on the higher sides) but the gradients are 1 in 30 generally and I think it might be the rock and roll of the loco that puts the fall plate in the upright position all the time Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 (edited) So your poor fireman gets catapulted over the tender if he's standing on the fall plate, every time your Q6 rounds a bend?? Edited October 14, 2016 by SRman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Nelson Jackson Posted November 13, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted November 13, 2016 I love this model, here's mine and my dad's side by side. 21 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 Hornby Q6 a BR version re lettered/number to post war LNER condition, Smokebox number and Oil drive removed. Tailrods added to front of Cylinders and weathered, coaled , fire irons and crew added. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe MCMLXI Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Great model, ran very smoothly straight from the box, now back after a bit of weathering.... I'm very happy with this model.... thanks Hornby. joe 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Q663368 Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Great model, ran very smoothly straight from the box, now back after a bit of weathering.... I'm very happy with this model.... thanks Hornby. joe Very nice. Hopefully we will get a different batch in 2017. A sandwich type front buffer beam would be nice covering the first 50, but I will take more of the same. They are easy to renumber and change the tender totems. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 ... I think it might be the rock and roll of the loco that puts the fall plate in the upright position all the time Alternatively between gradient transitions lifting it a little, the end of the fall plate inside the curve contacting some part of the cab, that may push it upright. I had this trouble on a Bachmann loco with a hinged fall plate, but a quarter hour of patiently wiggling it up and down made it able to fall under its own weight, so it comes back down to rest on the step when the force acting to push it up ceases. This may be a little obsessive of me, but I do like the appearance of a floor between loco and tender, and feel it adds a lot to a model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Black Hat Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Hello all, has anyone had trouble getting their Q6 underway. Having finally bought a sound chip for mine (its been sat waiting for one for a while), I hooked it up to a small programming test track to see if it was ok. It got underway slowly, which I think is down to the settings on the chip, but then after a while it would stop suddenly and the motor could be heard still trying to move the engine. I have checked the motion and believe it to be fine. I swapped it over with another chip nearby and had the same results to think that it is likely to be a fault with the engine. I have another Q6 to chip, but this one is under refit at present, and if the chip works in this second Q6 I will know it was the first engine at fault. Has anyone else had problems with theirs? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Yes David I have had trouble with my Q6 with the motor and chip (Zimo 645) over heating. I pulled the loco apart a couple of times trying to locate the problem with the pick ups (the sprung plunger to one side on the loco doesn't make contact with the pickup plates!). Subsequently I reinstalled the socket in the tender about 2mm lower to make more room in the tender for the chip and the speaker (28mm, also lowered and sealed to the chassis but with out the standard enclosure) this appears to have allowed enough room for the chip to not get hot. This was acheived by lowering the speaker which is held up on a ridge to the perimeter. This was carried out with a dremel and a burrer. The pegs the socket is screwed into were shortened with a pair of cutters by the 2mm. The motor is still getting warm but not to the extent to over heat the chip. I should also say that I sealed the speaker down with black tack and the volume is still quite loud and I am impressed with the work that John at Youchoos had put into the sound. So good luck with tracking down the issue. BTW be careful of the reversing rod it can catch on the chassis and makes getting the body off difficult. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Lambton58 Posted January 15, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2017 Great model, ran very smoothly straight from the box, now back after a bit of weathering.... I'm very happy with this model.... thanks Hornby. joe Very pleased with mine too. Runs beautifully. Ralph Lambton58 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Black Hat Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Yes David I have had trouble with my Q6 with the motor and chip (Zimo 645) over heating. I pulled the loco apart a couple of times trying to locate the problem with the pick ups (the sprung plunger to one side on the loco doesn't make contact with the pickup plates!). Subsequently I reinstalled the socket in the tender about 2mm lower to make more room in the tender for the chip and the speaker (28mm, also lowered and sealed to the chassis but with out the standard enclosure) this appears to have allowed enough room for the chip to not get hot. This was acheived by lowering the speaker which is held up on a ridge to the perimeter. This was carried out with a dremel and a burrer. The pegs the socket is screwed into were shortened with a pair of cutters by the 2mm. The motor is still getting warm but not to the extent to over heat the chip. I should also say that I sealed the speaker down with black tack and the volume is still quite loud and I am impressed with the work that John at Youchoos had put into the sound. So good luck with tracking down the issue. BTW be careful of the reversing rod it can catch on the chassis and makes getting the body off difficult. Mine is looking like a movement issue, which is why I was thinking it was the rods and motion. It looks like it grids and stops, then starts moving again. One does it, the other has been seen to do it and then seems to run normally. I will have to get them both onto the layout rather than the test track and see if that frees them up a bit. Meanwhile, the conversion of 63395 is complete, with a modified tender, repaint, dcc sound installed with bass reflex speaker! Sounds very good with the DC Kits/Superior sound chip! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Q663368 Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Mine is looking like a movement issue, which is why I was thinking it was the rods and motion. It looks like it grids and stops, then starts moving again. One does it, the other has been seen to do it and then seems to run normally. I will have to get them both onto the layout rather than the test track and see if that frees them up a bit. Meanwhile, the conversion of 63395 is complete, with a modified tender, repaint, dcc sound installed with bass reflex speaker! Sounds very good with the DC Kits/Superior sound chip! Pictures would be appreciated. FYI for those if interested. 63395 ran with a 4125 gallon tender at Selby prior to transfer to Darlington. I am not sure which tender it ran with after arrival. I will check to see if it went into the works prior to entering traffic. I ran my three Q6's in with TCS decoders and have yet to install the sound decoders. YouChoos in my case. Need to convert them to EM too. I will remove the suppressor says I did on the K1's. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Flying Pig Posted January 23, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 23, 2017 Mine binds intermittently. I think this is due to the little end of one of the connecting rods not being properly retained against the crosshead. It can thus slide inward along the gudgeon pin and foul the leading crankpin. There doesn't appear to be a retaining washer on the other side of the loco and I have a feeling that the gudgeon pin simply needs to be pinched to keep the little end in place, but as it is cast as part of the crosshead I'm wary of breaking it. BTW the rear of the crosshead is flush and not recessed which somewhat surprises me as it would increase clearance between the con rod and crankpins (my ancient Mainline Scot and Jubilee have this feature). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Black Hat Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Pictures would be appreciated. FYI for those if interested. 63395 ran with a 4125 gallon tender at Selby prior to transfer to Darlington. I am not sure which tender it ran with after arrival. I will check to see if it went into the works prior to entering traffic. I ran my three Q6's in with TCS decoders and have yet to install the sound decoders. YouChoos in my case. Need to convert them to EM too. I will remove the suppressor says I did on the K1's. I'll get pictures of the finished conversion on here when I can, and will post details of it on my workbench thread. As for the tender, I am aware that 63395 had the larger tender at Darlington and research seems to point to it being from an older C7 Atlantic. At Darlington it seems both tender and engine remained together, and stayed until withdrawal. With NELPG the engine was restored and the tender body subsequently rebuilt to the same appearance. As a result mine is running close to what it is now. I have used a Bachmann J39 tender, at 4200 as a donor and adapted both to suit. Meanwhile, will try and look again at the motion, but I'm finding it hard to see if it is a bend in the motion, or if some pin is jamming the motion to stop it turning. Will try and get it running soon and report back. Help with this regard is very much appreciated, especially if the problem is slightly more noticed than my two here. Oddly, it doesn't seem to be widely reported, so thankfully cant be happening much. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Dave (Black hat) watch the lubricator drive mine had a little snag and was just bent vertical which stoped the click. The rivet was loose so the drive has a strange motion until fixed. Sorry had to reread above to pick up on the issue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Black Hat Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 (edited) Hello all, Again thanks for the advice. Here's some pictures of the Q6 on the test track taken tonight, clearly showing 63395's enlarged and refitted tender. Hope that's of interest. I will detail the conversion in my workbench thread later... Edited January 23, 2017 by The Black Hat 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium it's-er Posted January 23, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 23, 2017 David Black Hat - lovely! As a matter of interest, how have you finished the body off? Johnsons Klear over Hornby's finish, or something more 'sophisticated'? John Storey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sidelines Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Magic - straight out of Darlington Works? .Hope that's of interest. I will detail the conversion in my workbench thread later... We will await the details Regards Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Black Hat Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 David Black Hat - lovely! As a matter of interest, how have you finished the body off? Johnsons Klear over Hornby's finish, or something more 'sophisticated'? John Storey Magic - straight out of Darlington Works? Glad you both like the end result - in appearance at least. The engine was given nothing more than a nice coat of Humbrol Satin Black. It looks spot on for the engine in its preserved appearance. I'd be careful using these as the Matt has dried before and given a similar result. But this time I was happy to use Satin as its looking preserved and polished too like the real thing is when done by NELPG. It hasnt been varnished although I was ready if the Matt dried dull. Transfers are from Model Master, it has cream numbers, white smokebox numbers and proudly wears the iconic 51A Darlington shedplate. Very happy with the results and that such work is appreciated. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Well as my modelling tends to be restricted to weekends. Today I managed an hour of playing around with my Q6. I managed to solder a thin wire from the pick up plate and then to the upper surface of the plunger plate. The difference between only 1 side pick up on the loco. Compared to both is quite surprising. The loco ran around my entire layout at speed step 9. I have now got over the disappointment of when I first received it. I at the point where I am quite happy with it. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted March 3, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 3, 2017 Bump... Kernow currently have all versions of these on a special 7 day offer at 1p under a £100 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Bump... Kernow currently have all versions of these on a special 7 day offer at 1p under a £100 Cheaper from Rails Of Sheffield https://www.railsofsheffield.com/lner-0-8-0-raven-q6-class-locomotive-3418-r3424-Hornby-JJJA29948.aspx Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted March 3, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 3, 2017 Cheaper from Rails Of Sheffield https://www.railsofsheffield.com/lner-0-8-0-raven-q6-class-locomotive-3418-r3424-Hornby-JJJA29948.aspx 49p cheaper lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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