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I think it was mentioned earlier about ballast over the tops of the timbers.  This practise, I think, was legislated against as it helped rot the timbers and was generally discontinued after 1890, even on the Cambrian.

 

I am not sure whether being buried increased the rate of rot (probably it did), but I thought the main issue was that no one could see if a timber was deteriorating or not.  I understood that some railways left every 4th timber uncovered so the general state could be gauged - but this might suggest no difference in rotting rate, or a poor judgement on behalf of the permanent way department.

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That might worry me if I knew what it meant! 

 

The aim is to get a feel of what would be appropriate for a cross-country line in East Anglia in the 1900s in terms of track and ballast.  I do not have to follow GER practice, however, as the WN is an independent line. 

 

I need to collate some pictures of the M&GN, which was only just converting some of its running lines to BH in the early 1900s.  I see the WNR as somewhere between the GE and the MGN in terms of state of the art v. ramshackle antiquated!

nice examples here via the templot sitesleepered_turnout.jpg

 

and reportedly still in place in the  1970's on the KESR

 

1763_031825_590000000.jpg

 

if I recall correctly Caley Jim is a dab hand at modelling these in 2mm

 

Nick

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I was led to believe that the interlaced turnouts on the K&ESR were the result of enthusiastic, but historically inaccurate, track laying by volunteers in the early days of preservation!

 

The K&ESR was originally ballasted over the sleepers, with a covering of local beach shingle, making it very convenient for cheapskates (like me) to use rough old secondhand track components for modelling it, as most of the track will be hidden :).

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nice examples here via the templot sitesleepered_turnout.jpg

 

and reportedly still in place in the  1970's on the KESR

 

1763_031825_590000000.jpg

 

if I recall correctly Caley Jim is a dab hand at modelling these in 2mm

 

Nick

 

Thanks.

 

I like it.  It does lend a more archaic look.

 

It would be fun (ahem) to see ant CA, but, really, I have bitten off more than I can chew as it is!

 

 

I was led to believe that the interlaced turnouts on the K&ESR were the result of enthusiastic, but historically inaccurate, track laying by volunteers in the early days of preservation!

 

The K&ESR was originally ballasted over the sleepers, with a covering of local beach shingle, making it very convenient for cheapskates (like me) to use rough old secondhand track components for modelling it, as most of the track will be hidden :).

 

Given the high cover of ballast seen in the GE photographs, it is clear that the chairs will be visible on the BH section.  Whether you'd be able to tell it's BH is another matter.

 

Whether the spikes on FB would be visible must be doubtful.

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I was led to believe that the interlaced turnouts on the K&ESR were the result of enthusiastic, but historically inaccurate, track laying by volunteers in the early days of preservation!

 

The K&ESR was originally ballasted over the sleepers, with a covering of local beach shingle, making it very convenient for cheapskates (like me) to use rough old secondhand track components for modelling it, as most of the track will be hidden :).

don't know about the KESR but there is photographic evidence of them been used on the EKR  if i recall the tax on timber longer than 9' was higher hence the reason interlaced sleeping was popular on budget conscious lines 

 

Nick 

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Re FB track spikes - as thy are not actually holding anything down i am faking them with slices of 15 thou square microstrip. Hence the comment about adding them being less exciting than watching paint dry but more fatiguing. I reckon that 40 is the most I can do at a sitting without a break, and that is not very much track. I did try using real spikes (4mm narrow gauge) but that was just as slow and much harder work for no greater visual affect.

And yes, each piece of rail, so usually the same number each side.

 

Jonathan

Don't know if the spikes used on the PECO Individulay flat bottomed system are still available. IIRC there were 2 sizes, for TT and OO track. Both easily pushed into a cork underlay, but the spike part on the TT version is about 15-20 mm long and would be difficult to insert through a ply base. I think that I still have a few left from when I abandoned a TT layout, I'll (Courageously!) venture into the loft to investigate and report back.

Don

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If you are still looking for exceptional figures, you may want to look up "Modelu". He posts on here and has his own thread under Small Suppliers. He 3D scans people in a variety of period clothing and produces what look like very high quality plastic figures.

 

He has recently put up a comment on RMWeb which may interest you as he is shortly announcing a new Edwardian range:

 

"This includes the first new Edwardian figures, the fitters & cleaners, the Loco shed detailing components and workmen scanned at the GCR in June".

 

His website is here: https://www.modelu3d.co.uk/

 

I shall be ordering some of his figures and lamps very shortly - the point rodding stuff also looks interesting!

 

ian

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If you are still looking for exceptional figures, you may want to look up "Modelu". He posts on here and has his own thread under Small Suppliers. He 3D scans people in a variety of period clothing and produces what look like very high quality plastic figures.

 

He has recently put up a comment on RMWeb which may interest you as he is shortly announcing a new Edwardian range:

 

"This includes the first new Edwardian figures, the fitters & cleaners, the Loco shed detailing components and workmen scanned at the GCR in June".

 

His website is here: https://www.modelu3d.co.uk/

 

I shall be ordering some of his figures and lamps very shortly - the point rodding stuff also looks interesting!

 

ian

 

I noticed the reference to Edwardian figures sometime ago on the RMWeb topic.

 

No sign of them as yet on the Modelu website, however -

Search results: “Edwardian”
Home Shop Search results for “Edwardian”

No products were found matching your selection

 

I can see that I will have to submit myself for scanning!

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Excellent idea!

 

The entire CAPC should dress in Edwardian get-up, be scanned while holding a PC meeting, then be placed inside the village hall, holding said meeting, in miniature.

 

To avoid silliness, of which I can think of much, we should dress for our actual trades and professions, but in period. As an engineer who likes cycling (even if I do get puffed out these days), this would give me the excuse to wear a Norfolk jacket and breeches, and a ludicrously large tweed cap.

 

Let moustache growing commence!

post-26817-0-06013400-1506522447.png

Edited by Nearholmer
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Excellent idea!

 

The entire CAPC should dress in Edwardian get-up, be scanned while holding a PC meeting, then be placed inside the village hall, holding said meeting, in miniature.

 

To avoid silliness, of which I can think of much, we should dress for our actual trades and professions, but in period. As an engineer who likes cycling (even if I do get puffed out these days), this would give me the excuse to wear a Norfolk jacket and breeches, and a ludicrously large tweed cap.

 

Let moustache growing commence!

 

Excellent idea!

 

We should pick an exhibition that Modelu is attending and tip up en masse in Edwardian garb demanding to be scanned!

 

A pity the Memsahib would never agree to be one of the party!

 

Funny name for a chap, Isabel.  Isabel on a bicycle essential?

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I am sure the topic of photographs of inebriated, pretty young ladies looking like they have had a great time with visiting Edwardian gentleman has been covered before, but I am positive no-one here will complain if you have to go back over the same topic time and time again!!

 

I just hope they don't suffer with hayfever with all them flowers strewn across the bicycles and their garments!

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Ask these two ...... one of them may be Isabel.

 

Whoever they are, they appear to run a pretty fine "apres cyclisme".

 

Ooh la la!

 

 

I did wonder if this had already be covered in past posts, probably #1,394,978 or there abouts

 

 

Weeeelll ...... we may have gone over slightly similar ground.

 

We do tend to.

 

But, since I've forgotten most of it by now, reminders are always welcome!

 

 

I am sure the topic of photographs of inebriated, pretty young ladies looking like they have had a great time with visiting Edwardian gentleman has been covered before, but I am positive no-one here will complain if you have to go back over the same topic time and time again!!

 

I just hope they don't suffer with hayfever with all them flowers strewn across the bicycles and their garments!

 

Don't worry, Kevin was teaching them the song If you go to St Lazare, be sure to wear a flower in your spokes

post-25673-0-23061400-1506525555_thumb.jpg

Edited by Edwardian
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I always feel diffident when talking about track, as I'm painfully aware since coming on the web what can be done in a meticulous fashion. Me, I just cut Marcway copper clad strip to length, file an insulation gap across, tin the sleepers, tin the underside of the rail, and then just solder it all up against a roller gauge and run away. No cosmetic chairs or spikes, I'm afraid. However, here's a few thoughts. There's an underlay of cork tiles, which I get from Wickes. You used to be able to get natural finish, but now they're sealed on the one side, and I surform this off to make sure the adhesive can take. It's handy to be able to cut a recess under tiebars, also you'll realise in the first photo that a groove has been cut for a tube for point control, then covered with a strip of cardboard, and ballasted. Sound deadening? Maybe, but it could make the gears grinding away louder by comparison to having a jolly clatter. Resilience is nice if you have a high spot after soldering up, as you can just centre a brass block over the high spot and give it a good whack with a hammer.

post-26540-0-28400900-1506523068_thumb.jpg

I've shown this before on my own thread, you'll see the ballast is Green Scenes, and the point is there are three different shades and textures, also another different one out of view. Also, we're talking O gauge, but I tend to get 00 ballast, so N for you, Judge, the photos you dug out prove a small size is needed. I like the buff/ brown shades mixed up, as I once had a bad experience with some grey granite ballast which turned bright blue when the diluted glue hit it, and I also take the view wherever it came from it would be hand shovelled out of a small wagon, not dumped straight from the quarry in a dirty big hopper. Another thing is the sleeper shade, these are done in Humbrol Matt chocolate, nice for fresh creosote sleepers, but I'm feeling they're too stark, and in future I'm thinking of lightening the brown, and streaking with light grey. The points are sleepered with long timbers, but I agree interlacing with standard length would be better for this era, the NER in particular was noted for it.

post-26540-0-72145100-1506523865_thumb.jpg

This shows that the ballast is spreading out over the tops of the sleepers, it is tricky to get this right, I think. In the foreground I've placed what I use for point control, a small slider switch, usually facing the point tucked down behind the front fascia. It has to fit in a rectangular hole cut into the baseboard, and the mounting screws come very close to the edge of the hole, so it goes into the notch in the piece of brass sheet in front, soldered on to it, and the holes in the sheet used to secure the unit. There's a hole been drilled in the knob, and .040" brass rod, tinned, passed through. A lug is at the end to link with your tiebar, and the rod "buried" in a plastic tube between the point and the switch. You'll see there's a short length of tube either side of the knob, and a 10BA washer facing the knob, which helps to spread the load on the plastic bit. Once you've connected to the point, you wedge the point hard over, hold the tube and washer firmly to the knob, and solder the tube to the rod. Don't linger with the soldering iron or you'll melt through the knob. Then throw the point, throw the switch, and repeat the process. This will allow the throw of the point, which should be less than the throw of the switch to have a small gap as the switch is thrown across, and both will have the travel needed. I should have said before fixing the switch to the baseboard you would have soldered dangly wires to the terminals underneath, I do one wire across each pair of terminals, that way the sliding contacts all have gainful employment. Then one wire to the one side of the point, middle wire to the centre frog/ crossing, and the other wire to the other side of the point, you'll easy work out which is which, I'm sure. Right, back over to the pedantry thread, you haven't said what a tw*t Louis XIV was yet??

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Bonjour, c'est Routier du Nord ici, mon ami Northroader he say"ouat ees 'appening on zee zread as I compose in serieux essay on track" and I come to spread ze enlightenment on cyclisme propre pour les elegantes sportives:post-26540-0-23503600-1506526918.jpg

Edited by Northroader
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Yes!

Hurrah!!!!

 

It used to be painted green, you know. Though I suppose that the egg-yellow coating in the photo approximates closely to Stroudleys "Improved Engine Green"....

 

 

Bonjour, c'est Routier du Nord ici, mon ami Northroader he say"ouat ees 'appening on zee zread as I compose in serieux essay on track" and I come to spread ze enlightenment on cyclisme propre pour les elegantes sportives:attachicon.gifIMG_1441.JPG

Bottoms Up!

 

As one might say!! :O

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if I recall correctly Caley Jim is a dab hand at modelling these in 2mm

Comme ça?

 

post-25077-0-56891100-1506539897_thumb.jpg

 

Or as a tandem

 

post-25077-0-04180400-1506540028_thumb.jpg

 

Copper clad sleepers in the switch and crossing areas with individual Easitrac sleepers in between.  Building a tandem with all copper clad sleepers does your head in when trying to decide to which sleeper a rail is to be soldered!!  (been there.......!)

 

Jim

 

PS.  Do I get brownie points for including French and bicycle references in a post which has nothing to do with either?

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anxiously awaiting the arrival of the first train to Castle Aching

 

MV5BMTQwNzk5NjYyNV5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTgwMDE1

 

Nick

I think they've all aged waiting for the first train from Castle Aching. Think they ended up taking a train from Pott Row as despite the walk it was still quicker as it had been built!

 

Re: track, I enjoy building copperclad track; been meaning to say this for a few days; as it is your first layout and things do take a while my advice would be keep it simple. 

 

What about a micro layout to check your confidence? Castle Aching manure factory sidings anyone? Built with just two points in a shoe box in glorious smellovision!

 

Martyn

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Excellent idea!

 

The entire CAPC should dress in Edwardian get-up, be scanned while holding a PC meeting, then be placed inside the village hall, holding said meeting, in miniature.

 

To avoid silliness, of which I can think of much, we should dress for our actual trades and professions, but in period. As an engineer who likes cycling (even if I do get puffed out these days), this would give me the excuse to wear a Norfolk jacket and breeches, and a ludicrously large tweed cap.

 

Let moustache growing commence!

If I tried that on my bike I think it would fall over.

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Let moustache growing commence!

  

If I tried that on my bike I think it would fall over.

Two questions:

Why would you try to grow a moustache whilst sitting on a bicycle?

Why would that make it fall over?

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