Darkly Labs emblaser - affordable laser cutter - review

[Adrian]

which one did you use from the range offered think thats when I gave up looking in the past as looks like a test sheet is going to be huge and expensive

 

Nick

 

 

They are expensive once you've added VAT and postage on. Amongst other things I bought the 0.5 "Thins" https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/lt404-102-black-0-5mm.html . It is quite flexible though so it depends what job you want to do with it. If you are interested I can send you a small sample to try, it does cut nicely. I don't know what other people have used, the next order I will probably try the ADA signage at 0.8mm https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/laser-materials/trolase-ada-signage/ls401-103-black-0-8mm.html 

Edited November 12, 2016 by Adrian

[flubrush]

 

 

They are expensive once you've added VAT and postage on. Amongst other things I bought the 0.5 "Thins" https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/lt404-102-black-0-5mm.html . It is quite flexible though so it depends what job you want to do with it. If you are interested I can send you a small sample to try, it does cut nicely. I don't know what other people have used, the next order I will probably try the ADA signage at 0.8mm https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/laser-materials/trolase-ada-signage/ls401-103-black-0-8mm.html 

Adrian

 

How do you actually order?  I've visited the Engraving-Supplies web site but have so far found no method of online ordering and paying.  Is it by email?   Also,  I noted in other discussions that black card cuts better than light coloured card.  Would the same apply to the Trotec materials.   I've got an Emblaser 1 arriving on Tuesday if ParcelForce are true to their word. :-)

 

Jim.

[Adrian]

Adrian

 

How do you actually order?  I've visited the Engraving-Supplies web site but have so far found no method of online ordering and paying.  Is it by email?   Also,  I noted in other discussions that black card cuts better than light coloured card.  Would the same apply to the Trotec materials.   I've got an Emblaser 1 arriving on Tuesday if ParcelForce are true to their word. :-)

 

Jim.

 

 

Hi,

 

It's all ordered on line but you have to create an account first. If you click on the login top right you should get to this page : https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/customer/account/login which then gives you the option to create an account. I seem to remember they emailed me to verify the account. Once you are logged in then the shopping cart is enabled for online ordering - be prepared for the prices though! The laser thin black sheet 1245 x 614mm is £35.50 plus VAT plus postage the 0.8mm ADAsignage is £29.50 plus VAT and postage. So it depends on how much you want - 1245 x 614mm is a lot of 2mm models! It would be worth considering joining up and splitting the costs if smaller sizes are required.

 

As for the colour then from the Darkly Labs forum I believe the black cuts easier and cleaner but I having nothing to compare it against as I just went for the black stuff. 

[Joseph_Pestell]

A newbie question. Has anyone had any good results producing stone blockwork (irregular)?

 

I am needing something that is in the style of the Ratio N gauge mouldings. Everything that I have seen in laser was brickwork or regular cut stone. 

[nick_bastable]

 

 

Hi,

 

It's all ordered on line but you have to create an account first. If you click on the login top right you should get to this page : https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/customer/account/login which then gives you the option to create an account. I seem to remember they emailed me to verify the account. Once you are logged in then the shopping cart is enabled for online ordering - be prepared for the prices though! The laser thin black sheet 1245 x 614mm is £35.50 plus VAT plus postage the 0.8mm ADAsignage is £29.50 plus VAT and postage. So it depends on how much you want - 1245 x 614mm is a lot of 2mm models! It would be worth considering joining up and splitting the costs if smaller sizes are required.

 

As for the colour then from the Darkly Labs forum I believe the black cuts easier and cleaner but I having nothing to compare it against as I just went for the black stuff. 

think we need to club together for A4 size split between us...............

 

Nick

[nick_bastable]

A newbie question. Has anyone had any good results producing stone blockwork (irregular)?

 

I am needing something that is in the style of the Ratio N gauge mouldings. Everything that I have seen in laser was brickwork or regular cut stone. 

if you can draw it you can cut it the problem been drawing it in CAD or a clean version you can import a BMP from

 

Nick

[flubrush]

 

 

Hi,

 

It's all ordered on line but you have to create an account first. If you click on the login top right you should get to this page : https://www.engraving-supplies.co.uk/customer/account/login which then gives you the option to create an account. I seem to remember they emailed me to verify the account. Once you are logged in then the shopping cart is enabled for online ordering

Adrian,

 

Thanks for that.  I now remember that opening an account was mentioned a bit earlier in the thread but I hadn't realised the that was before you got into the online pages.  Usually you are asked to register an account around about the checkout stages.

 

Jim.

[monkeysarefun]

Hi all,

Thanks for the information on the trotec materials, I have been checking out laserable plastics online on and off but was not sure which one was the correct one so thanks for the product names.

In a rare case of the universe aligning I have just checked out where Trotec are in Australia and was amazed to discover that in a continent 7.6 million  square kilometres big, their head office and showroom is literally 15 minutes (ok, 16 minutes..)  from where I am sitting:

 

 

And, they are open on Sundays... so I'll be able to go and be astounded at the price in Au dollars. (Might check out the lasers too, just for fun..)

[JCL]

On the other side of the Pacific, Trotec have an office in Metro Vancouver. They only supply them the trade, but are happy to give names of resellers. Not bought any yet, saving up at the moment.

 

Talking of materials, I bought 1mm and 1.5mm mdf from 4D models, Aldgate East (London). They've loads of stuff there, and their styrene is v cheap, so make a shopping list before you go through the door.

[monkeysarefun]

A newbie question. Has anyone had any good results producing stone blockwork (irregular)?

 

I am needing something that is in the style of the Ratio N gauge mouldings. Everything that I have seen in laser was brickwork or regular cut stone. 

 

I'd be searching  google for something like "tileable stone wall texture" and choosing one I liked.

 

Open up Inkscape and import it:

 

 

Select it and use the path -> Trace bitmap function. If the bitmap you chose is quite monochrome this should produce a quite sharp reproduction, otherwise you can fiddle with the settings in the box that comes up to try to get a good result:

 

 

Then its a matter of deleting the original image and copy +  pasting the path file  to cover the wall:

 

 

Depending on the compexity of the original image this can produce a path file with lots and lots of nodes, which can bog down your computer if you don't have a decent CPU. There is a 'simplify' function that reduces the number of nodes, though this can distort and round of the resulting elements in the path file, though for stone walls this isn't necessarily a bad thing...

 

Then off to the laser cutter, set to 'fill' rather than 'cut' so it engraves the mortar joints. Again, depending on the complexity of the wall, the laser cutter software can similarly get bogged down trying to calculate the fill areas. And, if you have open paths in the image it can produce unexpected and weird ideas of which bits it thinks  you want engraved and which bits you don't!

 

It sure is a learning experience.....

Edited November 12, 2016 by monkeysarefun

[monkeysarefun]

A newbie question. Has anyone had any good results producing stone blockwork (irregular)?

 

I am needing something that is in the style of the Ratio N gauge mouldings. Everything that I have seen in laser was brickwork or regular cut stone. 

 

I'd be searching  google for something like "tileable stone wall texture" and choosing one I liked.

 

Open up Inkscape and import it:

 

 

Select it and use the path -> Trace bitmap function. If the bitmap you chose is quite monochrome this should produce a quite sharp reproduction, otherwise you can fiddle with the settings in the box that comes up to try to get a good result:

 

 

Then its a matter of deleting the original image and copy +  pasting the path file  to cover the wall:

 

 

Depending on the compexity of the original image this can produce a path file with lots and lots of nodes, which can bog down your computer if you don't have a decent CPU. There is a 'simplify' function that reduces the number of nodes, though this can distort and round of the resulting elements in the path file, though for stone walls this isn't necessarily a bad thing...

 

THen off to the laser cutter, set to 'fill' rather than 'cut' so it engraves the mortar joints. Again, depending on the complexity of the wall, the laser cutter software can similarly get bogged down trying yo calculate the fill areas. And, if you have open paths in the image it can produce unexpected and weird ideas of which bits it thinks  you want engraved and which bits you don't!

[nick_bastable]

On the other side of the Pacific, Trotec have an office in Metro Vancouver. They only supply them the trade, but are happy to give names of resellers. Not bought any yet, saving up at the moment.

 

Talking of materials, I bought 1mm and 1.5mm mdf from 4D models, Aldgate East (London). They've loads of stuff there, and their styrene is v cheap, so make a shopping list before you go through the door.

4d models mdf is very good however beware their ply isn't Emblaser friendly  ( guess how I know this   )  UK mail order is cheaper than a train ticket and next day delivery

 

Nick

[Joseph_Pestell]

I'd be searching  google for something like "tileable stone wall texture" and choosing one I liked.

 

Open up Inkscape and import it:

 

is1.jpg

 

Select it and use the path -> Trace bitmap function. If the bitmap you chose is quite monochrome this should produce a quite sharp reproduction, otherwise you can fiddle with the settings in the box that comes up to try to get a good result:

 

is2.jpg

 

Then its a matter of deleting the original image and copy +  pasting the path file  to cover the wall:

 

is3.jpg

 

Depending on the compexity of the original image this can produce a path file with lots and lots of nodes, which can bog down your computer if you don't have a decent CPU. There is a 'simplify' function that reduces the number of nodes, though this can distort and round of the resulting elements in the path file, though for stone walls this isn't necessarily a bad thing...

 

THen off to the laser cutter, set to 'fill' rather than 'cut' so it engraves the mortar joints. Again, depending on the complexity of the wall, the laser cutter software can similarly get bogged down trying yo calculate the fill areas. And, if you have open paths in the image it can produce unexpected and weird ideas of which bits it thinks  you want engraved and which bits you don't!

 

I think this explains why random stone finishes are much less common in laser-cut models than more regular patterns such as brick and ashlar.

 

I am not an IT person but your explanation of how to import a .bmp into inkscape gives me cause for optimism. First step would be for me to find a pattern that can easily be repeated or else to draw one. Having made up  a complete sheet (both actual and virtual), I can then draw other patterns (such as the archstones for a viaduct) on top of them and get them cut out.

 

It is truly amazing the scope of this in producing one-off models such as the van above and time-saving/reliability where repeat parts (my viaduct will have about 30 identical arches) are involved.

[monkeysarefun]

Hi Joseph,

 

The repeatability of something once you've gone to the trouble of producing it in laserable format  is what makes all the mucking about viable. Everything you make on the PC can be saved and used in other projects - windows and brick/stone patterns and so on. I've found that building up that library of usable textures / windows / doors and so on is quite time intensive, I could have hand  scribed several buildings in the time its taken, but once I've done one, I can cut and paste stuff into other projects.

 

I went to the Trotec head office today, and I have to say that my definition of 'Open On Sunday' is 180 degrees  different from theirs. At least it was only a 15 minute ( yeah - ok , 16 minutes..) drive..

 

Back to the emblaser - it does  make nice (4mm scale) bricks!

 

 

Edited November 13, 2016 by monkeysarefun

[JCL]

First step would be for me to find a pattern that can easily be repeated or else to draw one.

 

Hi Joseph The only thing would add is to try to find a pattern that is fairly conservative. If, for example, you have a pattern with an oddly irregular, unusual or larger than average stone it, then you will notice that stone coming up in a grid pattern on the sheet you engrave.

[BrushType4]

A random stone patten that repeats on a welsh signal box;

 

 

 

To try and hide the regular pattern I alter the bricks my eye picks up.

[Joseph_Pestell]

Hi Joseph,

 

The repeatability of something once you've gone to the trouble of producing it in laserable format  is what makes all the mucking about viable. Everything you make on the PC can be saved and used in other projects - windows and brick/stone patterns and so on. I've found that building up that library of usable textures / windows / doors and so on is quite time intensive, I could have hand  scribed several buildings in the time its taken, but once I've done one, I can cut and paste stuff into other projects.

 

I went to the Trotec head office today, and I have to say that my definition of 'Open On Sunday' is 180 degrees  different from theirs. At least it was only a 15 minute ( yeah - ok , 16 minutes..) drive..

 

Back to the emblaser - it does  make nice (4mm scale) bricks!

 

November bricks (800x450).jpg

 

laser bricks (800x450).jpg

 Really nice texture to those bricks.

[Joseph_Pestell]

Just been looking again at  York Modelmaking site. Even if planning to buy a machine and do-it-yourself, they have a useful five-page information sheet. It is a downloadable .pdf but note that it is on their "professional" site (.com) rather than the on-line shop site (.co.uk).

[flubrush]

Just received my A4 version yesterday and it is now up and running and printing the calibration file.   I was thrown a bit during construction since the transfer round the buttons had been stuck on the wrong way round and there was a bit of confusion as to what went which way part way through the build process.  But I worked out what was wrong and all was completed.

 

One question - is there a supplier of suitable safety glasses over here in the UK.  I've got the pair supplied with the machine but I now realise that I can't work with anyone else near the machine so I'm looking for another one or two sets and getting them from a local supplier might be a bit less of a hassle.

 

Jim.

[Joseph_Pestell]

Just received my A4 version yesterday and it is now up and running and printing the calibration file.   I was thrown a bit during construction since the transfer round the buttons had been stuck on the wrong way round and there was a bit of confusion as to what went which way part way through the build process.  But I worked out what was wrong and all was completed.

 

One question - is there a supplier of suitable safety glasses over here in the UK.  I've got the pair supplied with the machine but I now realise that I can't work with anyone else near the machine so I'm looking for another one or two sets and getting them from a local supplier might be a bit less of a hassle.

 

Jim.

If you google "laser safety glasses", loads of UK suppliers come up. Given the wide range of prices though, I am not sure if some of the products are good enough.

[PaulT]

If you google "laser safety glasses", loads of UK suppliers come up. Given the wide range of prices though, I am not sure if some of the products are good enough.

You need to specify they are fro use with a semiconductor laser.

Many on the market are for CO2 lasers and will give you negilgible protection as the wavelengths are so different between the two machine families

[monkeysarefun]

You need to specify they are fro use with a semiconductor laser.

Many on the market are for CO2 lasers and will give you negilgible protection as the wavelengths are so different between the two machine families

 

The wavelength of the diode is 445nm, so make sure you get a pair that blocks this frequency.

[flubrush]

Mindful of the issue of smoke and fumes and not wanting to have to cart the Emblaser outside if I was doing work that generated a lot,  I've done a quickie to,  hopefully,  deal with the problem,

 

 

 

The box is a 70 litre Really Useful box which holds the Emblaser quite easily with just a restriction on how high the laser head can be raised when in use.   I reckon I will get up to 20mm clearance under the laser cover so that should allow me to work with the materials I am liable to use.    If I want thicker,  then I have to go outside with the lid off. :-)

 

The slinky style tube in the top picture is a three metre flexible plastic pipe from Screwfix which will be stretched out to put through a window.

 

 

The fan is a 14W Xpelair bathroom extraction fan from Screwfix.  The lid of the RU box was cut to let the 100 diameter flange on the back of the fan poke through and the flexible pipe is lightly clamped to it.

 

The Emblaser has been bolted to the floor of the box with four 6mm bolts about 25mm in from the bottom corner screws on the Emblaser.    Sixty 10mm diameter holes were drilled in the end opposite to the fan to allow an air entry point.   I'll see if this is sufficient when I put the setup to the test.    The area of the holes doesn't quite equate to the area of the 100mm diameter of the fan - about 66% - but I'll monitor the fab to see if that causes any problems.

 

The best deal I found for the RU 70L box was from Viking Direct - by far the best delivery charges with the box arriving the day after ordering.   All the other bits came from Screwfix or B&Q.   The whole lot cost under £50

 

I'm aiming to have the Emblaser situated next to the window in my spare bedroom to provide a ready opening for the hose.

 

Now on a technical matter,  has anyone tried to cut glazing material.  I've got the 4W laser and I tried a small test on a piece of PETG material at various laser strengths and didn't even mark the surface (I left the protective coverings on).  I was using settings I had been using for 200gm card.

 

Jim.

Edited November 19, 2016 by flubrush

[bigd]

Will you also need an air intake to the box?

[nick_bastable]

 you may have problems with it moving light items card/paper ?   

 

Nick