Jump to content
 

Darkly Labs emblaser - affordable laser cutter - review


Recommended Posts

.... First thing I did this morning!

 

My insurance claim came through this week, now the dilemma - new carpet or Emblaser 2..?

 

If only the bare concrete floor wasn't so cold, though with the payout I COULD get an emblaser 2 and thicker socks!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

I'm in for an emblaser2 with air assist  :preved:

 

 

I didn't choose the filter unit because I will build one myself. A filter mat will be placed before the activated charcoal filter to catch the coarse dirt, lefting only the fumes for the charcoal.

 

I see a very special christmas coming this year... with a scent of burned wood...  :yes:

 

Michael

Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay - seriouis stuff now.  I've made windows for years by printing the glazing bars on adhesive (label) paper, attached it to clear acetate then cut round the 'panes' and picked them off.  Accurate, neat - and time-consuming...

 

So can it be done with a laser-cutter?  The issue is the fineness of the glazing bars.  You cannot cut them out of the label-paper - they fall apart/distort.  This means the label paper (as in the original method) - has to be attached to the acetate which then supports the 'glued-on' glazing bars.

 

Hmmm.  Acetate? Laser?  a potentially sticky, smelly, melting result....  So some trials in order...  First, could the laser be set to run at a speed/power that would cut the paper, but not the acetate beneath?

 

Trial 1 - lase a plain sheet of paper, resting it on another plain sheet of paper.  Burning through BOTH would NOT be a success!

 

post-3469-0-81837200-1469136157_thumb.jpg

 

So here's the top layer, with the speed/power settings shown above the relevant group.

 

post-3469-0-53229000-1469136166_thumb.jpg

 

and here's the bottom layer.  Some are obviously more successful than others - but not completely so...

 

Ho hum, life (or rather, fire extinguisher) in hand..

 

The windows (for a 'Saxby & Farmer' 'type 1 box' were cadded up & saved as 'eps' (and yes, they are small!)

 

A sheet of the afore-said label paper was affixed to acetate ensuring there were no bubbles or creases,

and then fed into the 'Emblazer'.  Setting was 10mm/sec @ 30% power, one cut.

 

post-3469-0-85143300-1469136177_thumb.jpg

 

RESULT!  So I put the fire extinguisher away, and lased the sash frames from 150gsm card (same power settings)

 

post-3469-0-76609600-1469136185_thumb.jpg

 

Result - again...  So off to the studio to marry them up.

 

The eagle-eyed among you will have noted that some of the laser cuts were incomplete - however, it was only a few minutes work to complete them with scalpel & steel.  The 'panes' were then picked off as in the original method.  There was some extra resistance which I put down to the adhesive being melted to the acetate!

 

post-3469-0-84989900-1469136192.jpg

 

So here are some of the finished product & the components.  Like I said these are small - even in 4mm scale!

 

Lessons learned??  I wouldn't want to create thinner (i.e. 2mm) glazing bars. 0.5mm appears to be about the lasers minimum without the program running the bar-sides together (I can get down to 0.2mm thickness with a scalpel).  However, it is a MUCH quicker method than the original.  Okay, it took most of the day - but I dont have to repeat the experimentation sessions again!

 

Anyone want any 'Saxby & Farmer' signal-box windows??? :no:

 

Regards

 

 

Ian

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I think I've reached the limit of what is viable for me - these  0.8mm AF nuts just look like black dots to me unless I look at them with magnifier. They were produced by request, and fit 0.4mm wire

 

Nut%200.8mm%202_zpsa9ijrgwy.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

a review of what the Darkly has allowed me to achieve

 

 

 

 

 

wire and post fence posts

water tower frame

station

station building

station rear fence

station benches

round hut frame

front fencing

oh and the four wagons finished from the last post

 

Nick

post-1480-0-57970000-1472225212_thumb.jpg

Edited by nick_bastable
  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Dave

 

The CO2 laser cuts acrylic like paper, and leaves a lovely smoothed edge, but many of the plastics don't cut so well. Plasticard re-joins behind the beam, and some others give off 'orrible smells & worse. Not sure how good the LED lasers with it.

 

A number of people have had success with the Silhouette Cameo on thin plasticard.

 

Nick Bastable got some very thin MDF, 1mm IIRC, and I think I recall he got some thin plastic that lasered well too.

 

Trotec do sell laser able plastic material.

 

I'm starting to think in terms of card modelling however - layers of paper & card are as easily glued as plasticard, and when sealed, are nigh on as strong, and much less susceptible to sunlight.

 

Hth

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Morning All,

 I've not broken cover on this Forum yet, but SimonDs' timely comment above has spurred me into action.

I too bought an Emblaser, and after a bit of a disastrous start, involving a broken laser carriage, all my own fault (and unbelievable customer service from Darkly which got me back up and running - free of charge - Thanks!), I am getting to grips with this indispensable tool.

 I also had problems with material selection, and bought various thicknesses of card and ply to experiment with. The most promising results for me, came from card.

 This isn't a material that I use much, being a huge fan of styrene, but the results showed that I had to follow these up, 

and designed a coach as a test.

 I choose a Gresley Dia. 57 as something simple, and combined with MJT  parts and Hornby bogies it shows how versatile the card is.

 

post-1937-0-83276600-1473657013_thumb.jpg

 

Please don't be too harsh, as this was the prototype, and still requires weathering and finishing off, but I'm quite pleased with the outcome - enough to continue.

 I'm finding my feet working with card, and I'll be happy to answer any questions about my experiences to date with it.

 

It's bedtime now so have a good day!!

Gaz.

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Hi newbie question, can lasers like this be used to cut abs sheet or plasticard, or is there a material that acts like plasticard but can be lasered. I'm looking at very thin materials like 20 thou etc

 

Thanks

 

Dave

370 gram black card is about 17 thou would be suitable  the Darkly would r just melt plasticard  the card once sealed is as stable as plastic and easy to work although I prefer to make the main body from 0.8mm ply for stability

 

 

Please don't be too harsh, as this was the prototype, and still requires weathering and finishing off, but I'm quite pleased with the outcome - enough to continue.

 I'm finding my feet working with card, and I'll be happy to answer any questions about my experiences to date with it.

 

It's bedtime now so have a good day!!

Gaz.

 

excellent  work   

 

 

Nick

Edited by nick_bastable
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Hi Jason /All,

 I built this coach using the 'Jenkinson' method, very proficiently described by Mike Trice here;

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/104851-the-coronation-the-silhouette-mr-jenkinson-and-me/

 

 

 I generally use 3 thicknesses of card;

The interior is constructed from 1.25mm thick mount board;

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BXE75WS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The sides from 0.3mm thick card;

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009ARMB0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

And I also use 0.4mm thick card;

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00H54EEOW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 I laminate the layers using a spray adhesive, and have had good results with this;

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000NJZXHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

For other gluing, impact adhesive and PVA, the cheapo stuff from your local supermarket designed for kids, has also been used.

 

Obviously, all the materials above can be had from other suppliers!!

 

Any other questions, please ask!

Gaz.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

brilliant work Gaz!. I think card + laser cutter = a winning combination. I'm not a fan of styrene, even painted and out of the son, it becomes brittle over time. I don't expect the same from card, but its issue is likely to be sealing against moisture.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Hi All,

 One thing that I've been impressed with is the ability to form a tumblehome with card, and the fact that the construction has no inclination to warp.

It has been a bit of an attitude change for me, as previously, I only used card for the inner structures of buildings, before cladding them with plasticard.

 I would encourage you to have a go, as the material is very cheap compared to the equivalent laser compatible plastics.

I've nearly completed an LNER Thompson Dia. 339 coach, minus the interior which requires painting, and I'll stick a pic of that up to show, in my opinion, that the material can be used for Steel sided coaches as well.

 I need to thank various people, especially JCL for the whole introduction to this area of modelling via the Silhouette, Monkeysarefun for the headsup and inspiration which sold me on the Emblaser, and the likes of Mike Trice, Coachmann and the Late David Jenkinson  for sharing their expertise and time when it comes to constructing coaches - thanks Guys and keep the posts coming!!

Gaz

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...