Inspired by Brent June 1947

[St Enodoc]

7 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

Did you have any luck fixing it?

Only sometimes with the T-Cut. Sanding back or stripping and then repainting was necessary a couple of times.

[The Fatadder]

An update on the coaches:

So far nothing that I have tried has made any difference to the coaches, worse still when trying the wet & dry approach I was seeing brass before getting rid of the problem.  However with nothing to lose, why not just respray the lower brown?   It seems to have worked ok and may have saved the K40, it will just need the lining tweaking.   

 

As for the other two, I need to have a play with some weathering on the Composite, as that might be able to save the finish.  The brake third could get away with the same respraying approach (but weathering may be enough).....

[The Fatadder]

I have been working on finishing the CAD for the Signal Box and Down Waiting Room, both of which are now fully completed, nested and ready to run through the cutter (all be it probably not until the weekend).  The aim is going to be focused towards getting the basic structure of each building finished, but likely requiring some future work to finish off the roofs / platform canopy.

 

I still havent sourced the valance for the latter, I did purchase the Springside parts (only I miss ordered and got the wrong design).  Upon arrival I changed my mind somewhat, in that while the etch is very nice, you dont actually get that much which is useful (as it includes long lengths of angled panels etc).  This got me thinking about just getting my own etched, price wise it is fairly comparable, and it would be exactly what I need....

The roofs will take a little longer, the intention being to contact Intentio and order some sheets of laser cut roof tiles to be delivered when the goods shed is ready...

 

It will be good to get some more structures onto the layout, I think once that is done I am going to have to give serious thought to finally cracking on with adding point rodding (and a big order to ModelU for a lot of stalls!)

 

 

Edited October 18, 2021 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

While the buildings havent progressed (due to delays in receiving my plasticard order) I have had a delivery from Warren Sheppard with one of his new P15/18 kit, along with one of the last of the batch of W12 cattle wagons.

 

The p15/p18 is going to be the first to hit the workbench, I just need to confirm what I built my Cambrian example as (i think a P18) as this will be done as the other type.  First impressions are that it looks a very well designed kit, and shouldnt be too challenging to build (other than the vast amount of rivets to emboss.)  The biggest challenge will be not ruining the fine detail with too much solder given the amount of small structural pieces.  Certainly there is no chance for my usual bodge of soldering the big bits and gluing on the detail parts...

 

It also includes some very nice cast brass buffers / axleboxs, the latter come with the channel for the sprung bearing to move in ready formed (and really crisp), something Ive wanted for a long time!

Edited November 5, 2021 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

I had a delivery from Narrow Planet today with number plates for 4 more locos, this included the plates for my Dean Goods which is now complete (bar crew and lamps) and can head out to the layout 

[Neal Ball]

On 05/11/2021 at 15:32, The Fatadder said:

While the buildings havent progressed (due to delays in receiving my plasticard order) I have had a delivery from Warren Sheppard with one of his new P15/18 kit, along with one of the last of the batch of W12 cattle wagons.

 

The p15/p18 is going to be the first to hit the workbench, I just need to confirm what I built my Cambrian example as (i think a P18) as this will be done as the other type.  First impressions are that it looks a very well designed kit, and shouldnt be too challenging to build (other than the vast amount of rivets to emboss.)  The biggest challenge will be not ruining the fine detail with too much solder given the amount of small structural pieces.  Certainly there is no chance for my usual bodge of soldering the big bits and gluing on the detail parts...

 

It also includes some very nice cast brass buffers / axleboxs, the latter come with the channel for the sprung bearing to move in ready formed (and really crisp), something Ive wanted for a long time!

Morning Rich, have you done the P18 and W12 yet? I like the look of the cattle wagon from the photos on Facebook.

[The Fatadder]

6 hours ago, Neal Ball said:

Morning Rich, have you done the P18 and W12 yet? I like the look of the cattle wagon from the photos on Facebook.

I’ve only looked at the etches so far, after looking at the number of rivets to emboss on it I have held off starting until the rivet press arrives.   I was told it was put in the post today so hopefully should arrive early next week so that I can made a start.

will probably do the P18 first and then the more complicated cattle wagon, going to be a learning experience with all of these small overlays to solder on 

[Neal Ball]

3 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

I’ve only looked at the etches so far ........ the more complicated cattle wagon, going to be a learning experience with all of these small overlays to solder on 

 

Thanks Rich, 

 

That might be outside my skillset at the moment then! I certainly would not have the skills / patience to start putting rivets on as well.

 

Good luck with both wagons, Im looking forward to seeing how you get on.

 

On another matter...

 

The new transfers have arrived from Fox for my Centenary carriages. Would you advise spraying the whole carriage gloss varnish, ahead of the transfers going on. Or just where the transfers are going to go? The whole carriage will then get sprayed matt varnish once the transfers are done.

 

Thanks, Neal.

 

[The Fatadder]

2 hours ago, Neal Ball said:

 

 

The new transfers have arrived from Fox for my Centenary carriages. Would you advise spraying the whole carriage gloss varnish, ahead of the transfers going on. Or just where the transfers are going to go? The whole carriage will then get sprayed matt varnish once the transfers are done.

 

Thanks, Neal.

 

For consistency I spray the whole

coach side gloss,

 

[The Fatadder]

Continuing a theme of slowly improving the “standard” formations on the layout, its time to do a little more work on the milk train.

 

At present it comprises a Blacksmith K18 full brake, a Falcon Brass O41 twin tank, 4 Hornby, 1 Lima and 2 Dapol milk tanks in various liveries, my understanding from a couple of sources being that milk tanks were pooled under the MMB during the war and did not return to the usual company ownership until BR days.  So far all have been modified with new couplings, but not a lot else has been done on them, 2 further Lima tanks have also been sourced to extend the rake further (pending the addition of a couple of Dyson road railers).  With the exception of the Falcon kit built example, all of the wagons in this set are earmarked for replacement in the long term, hopefully when someone comes out with an accurate RTR model.

 

The remaining work includes:

Conversion of a couple of tanks to DC brakes

Conversion of one tank to a twin

Modelling one of the O44 short tanks

Correctly lettering the underframes  

Heavy Weathering

Replacement of the K18 with an O13 milk van (which still needs roof detail, brake gear and transfers for the "Milk train to London" lettering which no one produces. 

 

 

For now the focus has been on converting one of the Lima CWS tanks into a passable O38 and building an O44.

 

The O38 conversion is rather simplified, the Lima handbrake leaver was carefully carved off (as we the tie bars and the brakes which were moulded in line with the W iron.)  The latter will eventually be replaced with brass parts.  New V hangers were added before fitting a DC brake leaver from the scrap box.

 

The plan for the O44 came about after sourcing a Peco O33? 4 wheel tank by accident (it was a too good to be true price in a Dapol box and I hit buy before reading the description or properly looking at the photos…  The plan was to use the Peco tank on a Lima chassis and scratch build the rest.  The first thing I noticed was that the Peco tank was actually too short with flat rather than domed ends,  so the Lima tank ends were cut off and adjusted to fit.  At this point I realised that the Peco tank is actually far to wide diameter.  So the Lima ends were carefully removed from the tank before shortening the Lima barrel and gluing the three parts back together.   The Peco cradle was modified to fit on the Lima chassis (plasticard will be used to add the outer supports), while the Lima end brackets were reused.  Finally the tank top was rebuilt following the drawings in Russell (still in progress in the photos) along with adding the support wires with brass wire.  I think  I am right in saying that the O44 were used by United Dairies still post rebuild, so I plan to finish in either Silver or Blue with United plates.

 

 

Edited November 26, 2021 by The Fatadder
Photos added

[Bulwell Hall]

With the mention of the GWR O13 Milk Train Brake Van I thought it timely to show this photo of one that I have recently completed.  The basis is the elderly Mallard Models kit with some additional work following close examination of the preserved van at the SVR.  Built to P4 standards it shows the van as it was in the 1920s and one of the difficulties that I encountered was I could find no photos of the vehicles in service until one taken in BR days - so quite how they were finished in the1940s is a mystery.  The model now resides in New Zealand with its new owner.

 

The lettering was available at one time from CPL Products and are Methfix type transfers.  I bought two sets in case of problems with the lettering but in fact they went on first time so I do have a spare set if you'd like them.  But they are tricky to use and you only get one shot!

 

Gerry

[The Fatadder]

Very nice build, mine still needs the roof detail adding as well as gluing the roof in place.  I recall seeing mention of a derailment report detailing one of these vans being in use on the west country milk trains in the 40s, which was more of enough justification for modelling one.  There is one photo of 1397 in post war Great crest Western livery in Russell Vo2 (p102), which appears to have a snow covered roof, so this is what I have used as the basis for the livery on mine.  Though I much prefer the modification you have made of the two rectangular shrouds? above the windows, so I think I might have another crack at that.

 

I will drop you a pm re the transfers which I would definitely like please,

I did send an order to CPL fairly recently trying to order a set (along with quite a few of their other transfers), unfortunately all they had left was the SLIP lettering for which I had ordered a set + a spare for a slip coach that I have yet to order, yet alone build...) I have only used Meth Fix transfers once (substituting MicroSol for the meths which seemed to do the job).  Think for a one hit operation I will source some of the real thing...

Edited November 26, 2021 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

While the roof isn’t glued in place yet (and still needs another coat of paint), I have added the roof vents and rain strips to the O33.  I won’t add glazing until after the transfers are finished and the final coat of varnish (after which the roof can finally be glued into place.)   I think I will get the handrails fitted next…

As an aside it’s a good time to mention once again how much I dislike coach’s built with a solid floor / sides and a separate roof.

 

back to the O44 milk tank, the remaining supports have now been added and it is ready for paint.  I still haven’t decided on a colour, and have no period photos to work from (but more likely than not it will go silver with plates seeing as I have the paint to hand).  Black bits will be repainted afterwards

[The Fatadder]

With the milk tank waiting for paint it’s time for another project.  Now that my rivet press has arrived I can get to work on my P15 kit.

 

It started with lots and lots of rivets to emboss on the solebar, sides, and ends.  A couple of panels were done prior to getting the press (and don’t look quite so

good).  The rivet press has been fantastic, while the Hold and Fold has also been a godsend when folding up the parts.

 

the side door drop springs were soldered onto the solebar before fitting the completed unit onto the floor.  With that in place the centre pillar bracket was soldered into place.

 

next up the ends, the T section base was riveted, added to the vertical part and soldered onto the end.  The sub assembly was then soldered onto the ends of the floor 

[The Fatadder]

The ends have now been finished off with the corner plates and top section, the centre bracket has also been fitted to the sides which has highlighted slightly larger than needed gaps on the doors (only by about 10 thou or so) which must mean the end corners can’t quite be located properly.  At present the centre brackets are just loose fitted, so adjustment is possible if required.

 

 

 

I have also embossed the rivets on the 3 lengths of raised strapping for each door ready to solder on later, it will be good to have the body complete.

[The Fatadder]

After fixing the ends, the sides have now been fitted.  I have also formed the door bangers.  A lot of tidying excess solder is still needed, then it’s time to get onto the w irons / brake gear.  All being well I could have the wagon ready for paint this afternoon (then it’s onto the cattle wagon…)

Edited November 28, 2021 by The Fatadder

[Neal Ball]

That’s going to be great Rich…. Definitely outside of my skill set

[The Fatadder]

7 minutes ago, Neal Ball said:

That’s going to be great Rich…. Definitely outside of my skill set

It is certainly complex, I have simplified a little which has helped, the doors were certainly rather involved. (I think it’s actually possible to build with opening doors, not that I went that far).   I have managed to loose the etched brake shoes, so will be replacing with something out of my scrap box.   (Also managed to brake off two of

the door bangers…

 

the axle box / springs castings are amongst the best I have used, complete with a channel in the back for the bearing to

move rather than a round hole.

 

after taking this I glued the buffers on (currently drying) after which it’s just the brake bits to add, a little more clean up and a coat of etch primer.  I also need to decide which couplings to add.  It’s going to rather show up the 3 Cambrian/Kirk wagons in the departmental section in one of my long freights so I may keep this on its own. 

 

 

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Looks a great build, nice one Rich.

[The Fatadder]

After a little more work this evening the wagon is finished (for now at least), I have used a modified set of Coopercraft brake gear as I still cant find the etched bits.  I'm not too upset by this as I hadnt quite worked out how I was going to hold the etched ones in place while building it without ending up with brass touching the wheels (or a completely messed up alignment.  In that area I will see how I get on with the cattle wagon.

 

The only remaining job was a minor repair to the door bangers (again using superglue as I didnt want to risk the soldering iron near all the other bits), and with that it is now ready for paint.

 

Here it is alongside a Cambrian example (which actually appears to be a little short in comparison)  I thought I had build this as per the instuctions so was intending to retrofit with the etched Morton Brake leaver that was included with the etch.  But it turns out I had already converted it to a DC braked example, most annoying as if I had realised I would have made this one as a Morton brake...

I do however have a bunch of left over door bangers from the kit (it included 2 different lengths), and these are currently missing from the Cambrian.  So I will make use of them to do a quick upgrade.  The kit also gave up some spare fret which was perfectly sized for a tie bar on one of the milk tanks...

Next up will be the Cattle Wagon W12, which I should really have built first seeing as I have a spare set of damaged etches which would have been perfect for learning the rivet press...

 

edit: Naturally as I finished typing this I picked up a bit of kitchen paper I had been using to clean bits up and out fell the two brake etches.  Ive left them for now, but once I have done hte cattle wagon I think I will have another go at soldering up the "good" brakes...

Edited November 28, 2021 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

A couple of interesting deliveries today, with a parcel from Wizard Models containing point rodding square rod, some MSE stools, and a F24 slip coach that I have wanted to build for quite a while.  While I have absolutely no operational need to actually slip this coach, it ran on the back of one of the Penzance - Paddington trains and I think was slipped at Reading, I am quite tempted to try and make it work purely for play value.  Whether that is by adding a working coupling and letting it roll to a stop, or adding a motor bogie I am not sure.  At any rate I will build the thing and then worry about it...   Most annoyingly I did forget to buy the underframe castings I need to finish off the K40!  All of this has got to wait until Christmas, although I did liberate a couple of lengths of point rodding strip to do a test with some ModelU parts (I have one of their tester sets from the last Warley).  The rest of the ModelU parts are on back order...

 

I also received a copy of the 2mm Association's book on Point Rodding, which I wish I had when I was first designing Brent as I would have made a much better job of planning the rodding.  Would really highly recommend a copy  to anyone thinking of adding rodding to their layout (£7 delivered to non members via their website).

 

Back to modelling, the P15 has now been painted and just needs a coat of Klear before adding the Cambridge transfers tomorrow night. I have also made a start on the W12 kit...

 

Edited December 3, 2021 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

I forgot to add the photo…

[The Fatadder]

W12 is starting to progress, this is a test build with a set of damaged etches (thanks to Royal Mail for mangling them)  Rather lucky as I folded the floor the wrong way causing two bits to fall off.   Thankfully they have now been soldered back into position.  There is slightly more definition to the half etched rivet holes relative to the P15 so its a little easier to press the rivets (which is lucky as I think there are even more of them).   So far I have added the solebar to the floor, replaced the two parts I broke off and assembled / fitted the ends.  I have also punched the rivets on the corner plates / angled L section for the ends.  Really should put it down and head out to the garage to get on with the layout...

Edited December 3, 2021 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

While listening to the grand prix last night I have got on with the next step on the W12 build, getting the sides fitted.  As previously mentioned given this is being built with the damaged set of etches, so I am quite happy to deviate from the instructions to see if alternative techniques will help when I do the "good" build.  With the sides I was thinking that the strapping would be a lot easier to fit prior to soldering on the side, so after adding the rivets I gave it a try for the first section.  Unfortunately this made accurately fitting the panel much more difficult, so I ended up unsoldering them (at which point it was a lot easier to fit). 

 

I have formed and riveted the 4 corner sheets for the ends, the L brackets for the ends and the first couple of side brackets (one of which has been soldered into position).  

 

 

Edited December 6, 2021 by The Fatadder

[Neal Ball]

2 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

While listening to the grand prix last night I have got on with the next step on the W12 build, getting the sides fitted.  As previously mentioned given this is being built with the damaged set of etches, so I am quite happy to deviate from the instructions to see if alternative techniques will help when I do the "good" build.  With the sides I was thinking that the strapping would be a lot easier to fit prior to soldering on the side, so after adding the rivets I gave it a try for the first section.  Unfortunately this made accurately fitting the panel much more difficult, so I ended up unsoldering them (at which point it was a lot easier to fit). 

 

I have formed and riveted the 4 corner sheets for the ends, the L brackets for the ends and the first couple of side brackets (one of which has been soldered into position).  

 

 

That’s going to be lovely when it’s finished.