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Jazz 7mm Workbench


jazz
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Jazz

 

i was wondering where you had got to :icon_wave: I like the Cambrian wagon, very nice. have you thought of a Cambrian brake van to go with it? they were quite colourful with red ends.

 

You mean one like this? Didn't pick up on the red ends though. I only had monochrome photos to go on. So looks like beak out the red paint then.

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Onwards with the Claughton now. Here is the tender waiting a good going over with the scratch brush, cleaning & priming.

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You mean one like this? Didn't pick up on the red ends though. I only had monochrome photos to go on. So looks like beak out the red paint then.

DSC02993.jpg

 

Onwards with the Claughton now. Here is the tender waiting a good going over with the scratch brush, cleaning & priming.

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I have a painting diagram somewhere I'll did it out later

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On now with the loco. Just finished the chassis as far as I go before painting. It is much easier to paint in at this stage, particularly as the cylinders, slade bars and support bracket removes ae one unit.

 

Again I have just the centre azle sprung. There was no issues with the assmble. (Just the nickle silver was VERY hard and took quite a bit of drilling for the piston rods etc.) Quite a bit of filling was needed on the slide rods to get the crossheads to run smooth too.

 

It was very nice to not have clearance problems eith, as the crossheads are well forward of the drivers and well clear of the bogie wheels too.

 

Anyway this is it. Tomorrow on with the body.

 

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I have checked my sources there is no definite confirmation that the ends were red with the later lettering style. however from the photos I have you do need to add some black on the framing as with the covered wagon. I have lost your email so i cant send you the details if pm me with it i can send them to you

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Right then, A good uniterrupted day on the bodywork. The basic footplate/cab presented no problems. The valences and footplate had small half etch lines to ensure acurate alignment. This helped enormously in getting the bends correct on the footplate. Easily acheived with suitably sized steel rods.

 

The cab was a doddle to fit. No fettling or filing needed here. The folds on the cab sides had series of half etches and placing the small steel rod bang in the centre of them got them right first time. I used the beading etch to make sure they were correct.

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Now this bit I do like. (Gladiator kits are the same. Removeable brass spacers to get the firebox nice and square and accurate.

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A small amount of filing was required to get the firebox assembly to sit right down between the cab side foldins. It bolts to the cab front.

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This evening sees the end of a pleasing day. (Hence the odd colour as it's gone dark) Also a small amount of filing is required on the spasher at the front end to allow the boiler to sit properly. (That's for tomorrow though.)

 

The boiler was pre rolled and the ends fitted nicely into etched grooves. Again it made the job very easy. Small etch lines helped in aligning the ends, so when bolted to the firebox all was square and correctly lined up. The firebox is dulled because of the annealing to make the bending to shape easy.

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Onwards tomorrow.

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Hi Jazz,

 

Looking good as usual. Just as a matter of interest as you build a lot of kits, if we put Finney and Mitchell to one side for a moment, whose kits do you prefer to build and which in your experience falls at the first hurdle ?.

Do you prefer some as being more complete than others, or are there any which you prefer to build knowing you can add a lot more detail to ?.

 

Regards

 

Ian

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Wow. Where do I start? Well, first off I find most of the kits offered today are pretty darned good compared to the pre CAD days. (An iffy kit can still get through the net on most manufactures though. Mostly where clearances on the frames/wheels/valvegear are an issue.)

 

I seem to get a fair few kits with parts missing. Now whether this is because so many arrive from a third party I cannot say. Scorpio I have purchased for myself have been worst in this area. Lately though, I have had no problems with their kits.

 

I am always pleased to build, not in an particular order, Angenoria, D Andrews, Gladiator, and Connoisseur. That is not to say there is anything wrong with the vast majority of the others.

 

I am not only going by the actual kit but the quality of the instructions and back ground history of the loco. I particularly like kits that have very few words but lots of exploded diagrams Airfix plastic kit stlye) Saves me SO much time in construction.

 

Kits that I dislike building are DJH, Acme and the old Mega Kits. The latter being the worst.

 

I have no real preference as to the amount of detail offered in a kit. On my layout I try to build a kit to a standard amount of detail so all the models look uniform. I do not like to see a very plain model standing against a highly detailed one. Myself, I think there can be too much detail on a model. Unless it is a display model of course. I think viewng my WB thread shows the amount of detailing I find just about right.

 

I have seen models with opening smokebox doors and the tubes on show. Fine but not on my layout. I do like to see rivets where they should be and all the obvious details. As to detail you have to tip the model upside down to see, what's the point.

 

Well it's on with the Claughton for now.

 

Regards Ken

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Well, after spending a few days trying to sort out my PC, which, thankfully is almost there. I have had time yo finish the Claughton.

 

No real promlems in the build, just very tight behind the front steps. This was sorted by a bit of filing and tweaking the step away fron the valve gear.

 

Here she is ready for collection on Tuesday.

 

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Looks good. Presumably the tightness behind the steps would make it very difficult to accomodate scale frame and wheel spacing?

 

Robin

 

 

I cannot really comment on that as I have never been involved in S7. BUT the DA instructions did say as an alternative the steps could be fitted to the motion bracket. This would have meant they would be a bit too far forward.

 

I have two more of these locos to build in the near future and have decided I will file the step brackets to half thickness. That coupled with the half etch location slot and using a hard solder, will then give a nice flush surface behind the valances. That would then give a tight but sufficient clearance. The steps would still be vunerable though, as there is still no room for my usual strenghtening supports.

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Thanks for that Ken. I like David's kits, and have a black five which has been "widened" to S7. It works just fine and looks good with the deep frames right behind those large driving wheels.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Robin

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all.. Been busy beavering away at the bench, mostly just mundane stuff. Here are two you may be interested in. First one is the Park Tank from the Javelin/Gladiator kit. I have just completed for myself. I am awaiting the transfers from Slater's, the ones they sent are lacking the adhesive. on the pressfix ones. I fitted a 20:1 gearbox on her and she can roll along at a far clip as well as good slow running. I have stuffed a lot of lead in ther and she weighs quite a lot for a small tank. A fitting loco for my line as they were found in the Oswestry/Shrewsbury area in LMS days. She is to be in gold shaded red lettering as found in the mid 1930's.

 

Trying to decide what sound chip would be best for her, any suggestions?

 

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Driver Glyn the whistle & fireman Davy the shovel in attendance

 

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This next one is for Geoff. It's the Drummond HR 0-6-4T banking loco. One of only 10 built.. It's a Mega Kit. Boy, is it a mess to build. The list of alterations and additions is so long you would all fall asleep reading it.

 

Ayway, nearly there now.

 

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Continuing on with the Drummond loco. All the issues in the build have now been resolved. None were a big deal, just a catologue of irritating things that could have so easily been avoided in the design of the kit.

 

Looking at the (very basic) chassis, the obvious thing is the spacers are 4mm too narrow. This was cured by adding a brass nut each side between the spacer and the frame, then soldering up solid. The spacers did not line up with the holes in the footplate. Again not a big deal, just had to carefully measure new holes and drill out.

 

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The rear bogie was ridculous. You had just another narrow spacer and a long etched arm for the bogie to swing on. This would have had to somehow be attached to the frames right in the middle of the motor. (no mounting was supplied to do this anyway.)

 

Even if I had chose to mount the motor on the centre axle, this arm is IMHO not the best way to mount a bogie. As you can see in the photo I made a more usual spacer with a slot and made a post with a spring which gives much better riding and control of the bogie.

 

The post is nothing special, just a long 8BA bolt through the frame spacer. A brass tube sleeve over the bolt and a spring and washer over that. This passes through the bogie spacer and is held in place with a nut. The bolt is soldered in place in the frame spacer.

 

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The body had a couple of issues. The tank/cab/bunker sides were 1mm too long. The bunker rear 1mm too short in height and .5mm in width. I soldered a full width stip of 1mm thick brass onto the footplate between the bunker sides, then soldered the rear sitting on top of the strip. This brought it to the correct height. The descrepancy in the width was filled with solder and filed to shape.

 

Then I found the boiler was 1mm too short. So I just filled the gap against the cab front with body filler.

 

All the white metal castings are quite rough and ready. The chimney is a solid casting. So careful use of the pillar dril resulted in a partially drill out chimney. A bit of work with Halfords knifing putty will fill al the airholes in the castings.

 

Here she is almost ready for the paintshop.

 

I have one question for y'all, on the HR locos, was a tablet catcher fitted to both sides? Probably a dumb question but I am not an HR modeller.

 

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Hi Jazz. From photos I've come across, the catchers were left hand side.

 

 

Thanks for that Paul.

 

 

Returning to the Park Tank. Finally did the lettering and a bit of weathering with Carrs powders. Probably will give her a much dirtier look with the airbrush when winter is over. Too cold in the garage to play around doing that work.

 

Here she is on her first turn of duty today.

 

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Hi Ken,

 

The Park tank looks rather good, they have such a rugged charm about them its almost impossible not to like them!

What couplings are you using by the way? And how easy are they to fit and use? Am thinking of using some sort of auto-coupling on my layout, instead of 3-links as I'm beginning to find them a bit too fiddly!

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Hi Jazz

 

As they were used for banking up 'the hill' there was no opportunity to turn round before returning and would need a catcher on both sides. I seem to remember reading this somewhere.

Regards

Sandy

 

I think they were LH drive so it was superfluous for RH catcher.

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Hi Ken,

 

The Park tank looks rather good, they have such a rugged charm about them its almost impossible not to like them!

What couplings are you using by the way? And how easy are they to fit and use? Am thinking of using some sort of auto-coupling on my layout, instead of 3-links as I'm beginning to find them a bit too fiddly!

 

Couldn't agree more about being fiddly. (My reason for going automatic)

 

I use the Dingham couplings. They are are very inexpensive per vehicle too. Very easy to make from the fret. You have a choice of attacing them to the model like regular couplings, i.e. spring and split pin. Or, as I do, fitted solid to a plastikard retainer behind the buffer. Dingham actuallly recommend the solid fitting.

 

The reason being they are critical regarding height, keeping central to the buffers and I find they perform best keeping the hook a tiny bit behind the buffer heads. I use a home made gauge I sit on the track to set them at the correct height.

 

The only downside as far as I can see is everything has to face one way. So if you have reverse loops the hooks will end up the wrong end of the vehicle. Ideal on a terminus to fiddle yard layout.

 

The big plus is being able to uncouple at as many postions as you have the electromagnets and continue to push the train to any point to drop off the wagon/s and pull away.

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Sandy/60B. Good point, never thought of that. However The guy I'm building it for says the photo's he has of the loco shows one each side. So I guess you are all right on this. I guess this one will have one on both sides, althought I do not see the need for it. Thanks for the input.

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