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DCC Concepts - OO Gauge bullhead turnouts


Nick Holliday
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  • 2 weeks later...

As a beginner in this sport, I've been convinced to consider waiting for the DCC Concepts offering to get to market. Adoption for me will depend on how long that actually takes, and how bored I get waiting, and when the dimensions are published so I can do some planning in AnyRail or XTrack or similar

 

The alternative seems to be C&L flexitrack + Peco code 75 turnouts.

 

Of course, non-beginners already have a layout to be getting on with, so the waiting would be less arduous.

 

Just one person's viewpoint. I don't expect it to be shared by others.

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*** Flexible BH track is super close now. Literally being assembled reeady for my final sign off at our Mfr now.

 

Points as you may imagine need a little more time... so not just yet as they are a complex subject that must be absolutely right. Hopefully we will be able to show you something more soon though.

 

Richard

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is really exciting stuff as somebody that is about to start modelling a Midland Railway line !

Just one question - will the switch blades be of solid rail or pressed metal as per the norm in RTR thus far ?
(apologies if this has been mentioned further up the thread!)

 

Cheers

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  • 3 weeks later...

*** Yes indeed... I am delighted that this project is on time and really does meet our quality promise.

 

(1)

Legacy models is a brand name we have created for our 'Scale model" items and will grow quite quickly in range.

Re the Bullhead track range:

We visited our manufacturer to review the final packaging / assembly quality of the flex track, and we approved full production less than two weeks ago. It was all as expected and was given the go ahead immediately.

It is in packs of 12 and each length is individually packed in its own plastic sleeve within the box (So it can also be sold singly).

There are 25 really high quality bullhead fishplates in each 12 pack as a bonus for buying a box.

The track itself is lovely - sleepers have differing very fine woodgrain which differs sleeper-to-sleeper and the rails are properly angled as per the prototype. Rail-head height of the finished track is a perfect match for Peco code 75 too.

There will be an initial delivery by air to DCCconcepts UK / Gaugemaster our UK distributors and DCCconcepts Australia within a week or so... So it will be available very soon from your local retailer.

 

(2) All rail including blades is solid rail. The points/blades are milled solid rail too. I am sure you would agree that nothing else would look right!

kind regards

Richard

PS: Initial point-work development is well and truly underway and progressing well too

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I wonder what standard the turnouts will be manufactured to?  Will they be a true "00 Finescale" product, or has DCC Concepts used that as a trade name only?  If the latter then I can see some confusion creeping in maybe?

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I wonder what standard the turnouts will be manufactured to?  Will they be a true "00 Finescale" product, or has DCC Concepts used that as a trade name only?  If the latter then I can see some confusion creeping in maybe?

 

Hi Brian,

 

Richard has referred to "narrow flangeways" with existing back-to-backs in the past, and didn't rule out 16.2mm gauge when it was raised. In fact he has been very coy about it. He could easily have said it will be 16.5mm if that is the case, but nowhere in the DCC Concepts announcements is 16.5mm mentioned, just "00 gauge".

 

"Now is not the time to jump to conclusions." smile.gif

 

Bear in mind also that DCC Concepts are supplying 16.2mm (00-SF) track gauges.

 

There has been a lot more discussion about this track on the MRF forum rather than on RMweb:

 

 http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=38266&view=findpost&p=461737

 

Whatever it is, it's clear that it will be well received, especially if he beats Peco to market.

 

Martin.

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Are the sleeper sizes and spacing on this track exactly to 4mm/ft scale, or (like Peco's forthcoming track) a compromise to prevent the track looking narrow gauge?

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In my experience, soft soldering to stainless steel is difficult

 

DCC Concepts are supplying a special strong flux for stainless steel, suggested for use at higher than usual temperatures. That could be problematic -- the extra heat may damage the nearby moulding, and active fluxes are generally regarded as a no-no for electrical work (because of the long term risk of corrosion if not fully cleaned off).

 

However, they also have some neat phosphor-bronze rail joiners: http://www.ehattons.com/207993/Legacy_Models_LTK_RJ25_Pack_of_25_phospor_bronze_Finescale_rail_joiners_fishplates_for_Legacy_bullhead_/StockDetail.aspx

 

If dropper wires were soldered to these before use, we might have a very neat and unobtrusive way of making electrical connections. Assuming they are a tight fit on the rail.

 

Martin.

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*** Yes, the rail is stainless steel. It looks like steel and does not oxidise or yellow like Nickel silver. No we have not literally scaled things - we have kept to what we feel is the best visual balance. It looks right according to those who have seen it.

 

Every single length has a small instruction sheet with it discussing cutting, fixing, ballasting and soldering. It is NOT hard.

 

For those who prefer, while its not my favourite approach,  you can of course solder to the supplied phosphor bronze fishplates very easily and as they are of a material that will not react badly with the rail, good results will happen.

 

No, its not hard to solder. No its not problemmatic. No its not above normal temperatures either - It is quite normal to solder SS at higher heat than Steel, Brass or NS. No - just like soldering to NS with "other brands", it will not melt the surrounds if you have even reasonable soldering ability.

 

No the flux we recommend is not "Strong flux" - Unlike stronger SS fluxes sold elsewhere, it is very human safe and simply a carefully formulated no-clean flux that will not hurt copper wire.

 

ANY modeller should be able to get a good result. Like all soldering jobs its about the right materials, heat energy delivery and cleanliness.

 

As one who solders all of the time and teaches the subject too,  I'd recommend 40+ watts for any soldering job.... whether it be small SMT parts or rail soldering. Fast delivery of the right heat energy will ensure you never melt anything.

 

* Iron set to maximum heat if you have a soldering station.(You are always there anyway with most stick irons with no control!).

 

* Use DCCconcepts no-clean flux. If you use another flux that works, fine, but make sure it does not hurt the copper in your wiring! This flux is also usable for all other hobby things and works really well - (we have never had feedback on it less than "this is the best we have ever used).

 

* Use DCCconcepts 179 solder or equivalent. The solder you choose MUST contain silver. You will also find this solder exceptional for NS or brass by the way.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

As indicated in the previous posts, pointowrk is moving ahead quite quickly and will be to the standards that a caring modeller will appreciate :-)

 

Regards

 

Richard

Edited by Richard Johnson
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As indicated in the previous posts, pointwork is moving ahead quite quickly and will be to the standards that a caring modeller will appreciate :)

 

Thanks Richard.

 

When I was manufacturing "00 gauge" pointwork (now 40 years ago), I kept quiet about the actual gauge too. It makes for a much quieter life. smile.gif

 

Martin.

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Hi Richard,

 

The Hattons ad says the rail is stainless steel.

 

In my experience, soft soldering to stainless steel is difficult - how do you envision making power connections?

 

Thank you,

 

Steve

 

Notwithstanding Richard's response above, I work in gauge one outside, track powered and all with stainless steel rail.

 

I find no problem at all soldering to the stainless steel rail, I tin it using phosphoric acid flux and then solder normally. I am attaching multi cored and single cored copper wire to the rail and do not have any special cleaning regime, ie I don't. In six years plus outside I haven't suffered any soldered joint failures, nor do I anticipate any.

 

Actually I have one criticism of stainless as a rail material, it doesn't tarnish and so the rail looks too shiny, although Hydcrochloric Acid (sold as brick acid in the building trade) will give it a slight rusty finish. Of course this quality is great for electrical contact and another benefit of stainless is a significantly lower coefficient of linear expansion compared to nickel silver.

 

You will have no problem whatever using this new rail, go for it!

 

Simon

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Are the sleeper sizes and spacing on this track exactly to 4mm/ft scale, or (like Peco's forthcoming track) a compromise to prevent the track looking narrow gauge?

We don't want to go there do we?

Let us just say that first impressions indicate that it is in a totally different league to the Peco product.

Bernard

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We don't want to go there do we?

Let us just say that first impressions indicate that it is in a totally different league to the Peco product.

Bernard

 

Agreed. The question needs to be "does it look right?"

If the answer is "yes" does it matter if its "correct" regardless of whether it is exactly 4mm/ft (whatever that means with the "wrong" gauge) or if an optical illusion has been employed to make it look "correct".

At "normal viewing distances" - and with digital cameras that can be cruelly close-up - this track has chairs making it instantly different to Peco. I'm certainly looking forward to release of the points as I have a number of new layout ideas all on hold awaiting the specs and details. 

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*** Yes, the rail is stainless steel. It looks like steel and does not oxidise or yellow like Nickel silver. No we have not literally scaled things - we have kept to what we feel is the best visual balance. It looks right according to those who have seen it.

 

Every single length has a small instruction sheet with it discussing cutting, fixing, ballasting and soldering. It is NOT hard.

 

For those who prefer, while its not my favourite approach,  you can of course solder to the supplied phosphor bronze fishplates very easily and as they are of a material that will not react badly with the rail, good results will happen.

 

No, its not hard to solder. No its not problemmatic. No its not above normal temperatures either - It is quite normal to solder SS at higher heat than Steel, Brass or NS. No - just like soldering to NS with "other brands", it will not melt the surrounds if you have even reasonable soldering ability.

 

No the flux we recommend is not "Strong flux" - Unlike stronger SS fluxes sold elsewhere, it is very human safe and simply a carefully formulated no-clean flux that will not hurt copper wire.

 

ANY modeller should be able to get a good result. Like all soldering jobs its about the right materials, heat energy delivery and cleanliness.

 

As one who solders all of the time and teaches the subject too,  I'd recommend 40+ watts for any soldering job.... whether it be small SMT parts or rail soldering. Fast delivery of the right heat energy will ensure you never melt anything.

 

* Iron set to maximum heat if you have a soldering station.(You are always there anyway with most stick irons with no control!).

 

* Use DCCconcepts no-clean flux. If you use another flux that works, fine, but make sure it does not hurt the copper in your wiring! This flux is also usable for all other hobby things and works really well - (we have never had feedback on it less than "this is the best we have ever used).

 

* Use DCCconcepts 179 solder or equivalent. The solder you choose MUST contain silver. You will also find this solder exceptional for NS or brass by the way.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

As indicated in the previous posts, pointowrk is moving ahead quite quickly and will be to the standards that a caring modeller will appreciate :-)

 

Regards

 

Richard

 

Thanks Richard,

 

That was a very useful and complete answer.

 

We specialize in the supply of British model railway products here in Canada and are planning to stock your track and turnouts.

Knowing that it has been so well thought out and contains instructions with every length is encouraging.

As long as Gaugemaster will ship us your No-Clean flux we should have no problems supplying everything the modeler needs to use your product.

 

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

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Hi,

Well I've just done a cursory search and can't find anyone in UK that is currently seling this flux. Neither Gaugemaster or Hattons have it listed. I suspect that Carrs orange label may be a suitable alternative.

Edited by Stephen Freeman
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Thanks Richard,

 

That was a very useful and complete answer.

 

We specialize in the supply of British model railway products here in Canada and are planning to stock your track and turnouts.

Knowing that it has been so well thought out and contains instructions with every length is encouraging.

As long as Gaugemaster will ship us your No-Clean flux we should have no problems supplying everything the modeler needs to use your product.

 

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

 

This looks really exciting, as someone who is just on the tail end of the planning stage for a future product planned using Tillig Elite track (love the points, trying to ignore the HO sleepers) I am tempted to change. I have used the excellent ANYRAIL software to do my plan, Do you have a an idea on when the pointwork is far enough along the road to send David from AnyRail the information he'll need to add your track to the design elements range?

I have spent a long time tweaking my current plan to try and fulfill the combination of making it look the original track plan, only use Tilligds standard range, and not least give me space for baseboard joints with no points on them! So it does not matter to me if the points are first availble later, I'll need the time to see if I can fit them into the plan.

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Curiously Hatton's e-mailing today lists the new Legacy plain track under the heading Code 55 or 75 Finescale Streamline...

 

 

Legacy Models

 

Track - Code 55 Finescale Streamline

LTK-RJ100_3240613_Qty1_cat.jpg

LTK-RJ100 Pack of 100 phospor bronze Finescale rail joiners/fishplates for Legacy bullhead track £21

Track - Code 75 FineScale Streamline

LTK-BH00_3240612_Qty1_1.jpg

LTK-BHOO 960mm length of Code 75 Wooden-sleeper stainless steel bullhead flexible track £5
LTK-BHOO
Box of 12 £55

LTK-RJ25_3240614_Qty1_cat.jpg

LTK-RJ25 Pack of 25 phospor bronze Finescale rail joiners/fishplates for Legacy bullhead track £6.50

LTK-SR10_3240615_Qty1_cat.jpg

LTK-SR10 Pack of ten 960mm lengths of Code 75 Bullhead rail, stainless steel £14.50

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