Producing your own track

[Ashley_]

I am looking to have a go at producing my own track as when looking at other railways it allows you to produce points etc in the shape that you want also i was wanting to have some duel gauge track on my layout but the pre made stuff has big price tag.

 

Looking over the internet there are a few ways of doing it but i haven't found a website or discussion that show you how it is done with pictures (probably haven't been looking hard enough). Can anyone suggest a good website or form that will help, I also am open to all the advice i can get as i am a complete noobie.

 

Thanks Ash

[KalKat]

Ummmm  .......... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/160-handbuilt-track-templot/

[sharris]

I'd recommend Iain Rice's book - it's about 25 years old now (unless it's had an update), but still a good source of information.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Approach-Building-Finescale-Track-4mm/dp/1874103003

 

(Other bookshops are available)

[Gordon A]

Templot IMHO is the best track planning system for realistic track.

It does take some time to master.

Templot is not a full blown CAD system but a library of templates that you can alter in every way imaginable and save.

 

I usually limit myself to a couple of hours a session.

 

Gordon A 

[Derekstuart]

Hello Ashley

 

Welcome to the World of track making. In my most humble opinion, the very best part of model making. Once you make the decision to elevate yourself to track building you can build relatively simple and basic track formations, but I would warn you that it is very easy to become addicted and go further and further towards prototype- especially if you are working with a true to scale gauge.

 

As others have said I would strongly recommend Templot; using this clever piece of software you can easily design a single turnout or a quite complex formation. It is not the easiest programme to use, but it is nowhere near as bad as some people claim. I have been using it for 2 years now and am still learning new tricks, but at the basic you should have your first template designed and printed within minutes. The designer of Templot, the Pre-eminent Professor of Templotology, Martin Wynne, has written countless articles on Templot and track generally and is well worth googling. Templot is free (there's a donation button if you like it to help with running costs). I have no connection to Mr Wynne or Templot other than a very appreciative Templot student.

 

There are several companies selling track making components, but I would opt for C&L (including Exactoscale and Carrs) at www.finescale.org.uk  You can buy flexi track and just make the formations with components or build the whole lot by hand (time consuming but well worth it, especially if using real wood). Again, no connection except as a customer.

 

If I can help with any general advice please do ask; I have had a lot of help and it seems only cricket that I try and pass this on. I would also recommend looking here for Mr Hayfield's workbench- he's a pretty damned clever chap at making turnouts. Good luck.

 

 

EDIT: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/57911-hayfields-turnout-workbench/

 

Well worth a read. I learned a lot from this chap.

Edited August 7, 2016 by Derekstuart

[martin_wynne]

it allows you to produce points etc in the shape that you want

 

Hi Ash,

 

Well done on spotting the intrinsic advantage of hand-built track over RTR track in your first line. All the arguments you will find on RMweb about sleeper spacing, bullhead rail, track gauge, flangeway gaps, radius, chairs, etc., are all secondary to that.

 

For a good introduction to the subject, see this book by Geoff Jones for the 2mm Association:

 

from: http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/trackbook/

 

You didn't mention your gauge or scale, but much of that book applies to all scales and gauges with lots of useful info.

 

For lots more practical help, see this topic on RMweb: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/57911-hayfields-turnout-workbench/

 

Building your own track doesn't mean you have to build everything else yourself. If you choose your standards carefully you can run models straight out of the box on your hand-built track. Have a look at this layout, where hand-built track has transformed a model railway using 00 gauge RTR models beyond recognition:

 

 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/102666-why-would-i-choose-00-sf-4-sf-in-templot/page-30?p=2384135&do=findComment&comment=2384135

 

 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/112547-stoke-courtenay/

 

regards,

 

Martin.

Edited August 7, 2016 by martin_wynne

[hayfield]

Ashley

 

There is plenty of very useful items about building your own trackwork on this site. Knowing what scale and gauge you are working in will allow us to give more specific advice as would knowing what stock you have and what you are trying to achieve

 

Both books recommended are well worth a read and the methods shown can be transferred to various scales and gauges

 

If you are modelling to 00 gauge many of us cut out teeth on SMP copperclad kits

 

http://marcway.net/list3.php?col=head&name=OO+COPPER+CLAD+KITS

They need soldering together, but come as a complete kit of parts, plans and instructions are quite inexpensive

 

Do buy a couple of roller gauges with the first one

 

They also supply a plastic based kit

http://marcway.net/list3.php?col=head&name=OO+POINT+KITS+PLASTIC+BASED

 

These options are a good start to learning how to build trackwork without investing larger sums of money

[Ashley_]

Thanks everyone for the help, i will have a read up on all suggestions made. 

 

I also as noticed forgot to mention that i am modeling in oo but am hoping to combine it with 009 and start to produce track like in the picture.

[hayfield]

Thanks everyone for the help, i will have a read up on all suggestions made. 

 

I also as noticed forgot to mention that i am modeling in oo but am hoping to combine it with 009 and start to produce track like in the picture.

 

 

Well you need to order 2 sets of gauges then,

 

Its a good idea to have a mixed gauge layout as they look good and not modelled all that often. I suggest you build something simple first just to get the hang of it

[martin_wynne]

Hi Ash,

 

Please note that you can't sensibly mix 009 and 00 wheels on the same mixed-gauge track. 009 uses N-gauge wheels which will fall into the 00 crossing gaps with a bump.

 

For mixed-gauge track it is necessary to use the same wheel profile for both gauges. This makes sense of course because both models the same scale.

 

To work properly on mixed-gauge track 9mm narrow-gauge models in 4mm scale need small diameter 4mm scale wheels, not N scale wheels.

 

Likewise in 7mm scale where it is popular to use 00 wheels for 16.5mm narrow-gauge. This won't work on mixed-gauge track with 7mm wheels.

 

regards,

 

Martin.

[hayfield]

Martim

 

Let me get this  right in my own mind, its OK to cross tracks as Tillig has done, but having a mixed gauge on the 1 track needs the same wheel profile

[Derekstuart]

Martin

 

How does that work on the prototype then? I am sure I have seen this somewhere in Wales (Ffestiniog) and definately in Poland. I would have thought that the narrow gauge wheels would scale quite nicely into N.

 

(a question not an argument btw).

[BG John]

Likewise in 7mm scale where it is popular to use 00 wheels for 16.5mm narrow-gauge. This won't work on mixed-gauge track with 7mm wheels.

Not that it's relevant to this topic, but it works for me, where I've got finescale O gauge running through butchered Peco code 100 points on Cheapside Yard. Probably not to be recommended on anything other than a small shunting layout though.

[Petri Sallinen]

I took these pictures some years ago in Scaleforum exhibition — three different gauges in same rails. Fantastic layout and excellent work — all handmade and trains worked very well.

 

Petri

 

[DCB]

I took these pictures some years ago in Scaleforum exhibition — three different gauges in same rails. Fantastic layout and excellent work — all handmade and trains worked very well.

 

Petri

 

Like all intricate trackwork keeping it all one polarity pays dividends, here its overhead, it could equally be radio control with onboard batteries but getting rid of insularors makes life so much easier.     The big advantage with home made track is that you can get coned wheel treads to bear on the rail head not the gauge corner by angling the rails in 10 to 20 degrees like the prototype instead of vertical like Triang MK 1 track from 1950 or Basset Lowke circa 1908.  

[t-b-g]

Mixing different wheel profiles on the same track is one of those areas where what should work and what does work are two quite different things.

 

On The late Peter Denny's Buckingham (which is 4mm scale EM gauge although it doesn't have an narrow gauge element) has wheels varying from old 1950s Triang plastic ones opened up to EM by being glued further apart on metal axles, Stewart Reidpath brass wheels with enormous flanges and other historical monstrosities through to modern Alan Gibson wheels on some of the later wagons.

 

As a fairly experienced modeller, I personally would not expect that mix to work. But it does. Superbly. OK there is the odd bump at a crossing here or there, which is usually down to poor alignment through the crossing nose and which can usually be got rid of by adjusting the track. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes, I wouldn't have believed that it was possible to run that variety of wheels on the same layout without it being a disaster..

[sharris]

I took these pictures some years ago in Scaleforum exhibition — three different gauges in same rails. Fantastic layout and excellent work — all handmade and trains worked very well.

 

Petri

 

 

 

Now those points and crossings just makes my brain hurt! 

[dhjgreen]

I took these pictures some years ago in Scaleforum exhibition — three different gauges in same rails. Fantastic layout and excellent work — all handmade and trains worked very well.

 

Petri

 

Is that the Baron's work?

[martin_wynne]

How does that work on the prototype then? I am sure I have seen this somewhere in Wales (Ffestiniog) and definately in Poland. I would have thought that the narrow gauge wheels would scale quite nicely into N.

 

Hi Derek,

 

On the prototype the narrow-gauge wheel profile is very similar to the standard-gauge profile (flange thickness, flange depth, etc.). The wheels are simply smaller in diameter. They may also be a little narrower, around 4.5" wide (instead of 5" for standard-gauge wagon wheels). With 1.75" flangeway gaps and a 0.75" blunt nose the absolute minimum wheel width is 4.25", and you need a bit more to fully support the load and allow for the top corner radius on the rail. So 4.5" wheel wide is the practical working minimum where standard gauge wheels also need to run through the same crossings.

 

Narrow-gauge lines which don't have mixed-gauge tracks may sometimes use narrower flangeway gaps and wheels, but not by much. They certainly don't scale the wheel profile down in proportion to the gauge, which is what modellers are doing when using 2mm scale wheels on a 4mm layout. Or 4mm scale wheels on a 7mm layout.

 

As for what is happening in the Tillig track shown, that's a matter for Tillig to explain. I imagine that 009 or H09 models using N gauge wheels on H0 track would be extremely bumpy.

 

The NMRA standards at: http://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/S-4.2%202015.01.19.pdf

 

say that N gauge wheels are Code72 (0.072" wide, 1.8mm). The standard H0 flangeway gap is .050" (1.3mm). So even with sharp-nose vees the absolute minimum wheel width to bridge the crossing gap is 2.6mm. Very clearly a 1.8mm object is going to fall into a 2.6mm gap with a bump. H0n3 wheels are wider at code 88 (0.088", 2.2mm), still too narrow for 2.6mm crossing gaps.

 

On the other hand a great many modellers have grown up seeing wheels fall into crossing gaps with a bump, and presumably accept it as normal and acceptable.

 

regards,

 

Martin.

[6029 King Stephen]

You should also seek out the articles written by Norman Solomon in Model Railway Journal a few years ago with step-by-step guidance on how to build trackwork.  There was also a Right Track DVD, No. 10 with Norman demonstrating the whole process of building your own track.    He builds a junctions using C&L plastic components and ballasts it.  There is also a demonstration of how to build a copperclad turnout.  Norman uses ready milled switch blades available from C&L but I usually use a bench grinder to produce these and have some jigs that assist in producing Vees and check rails - the latter cost me around £46 a few years ago.  I also have the Iain Rice book which concentrates on building copperclad pointwork to P4 standard but the principles remain the same.  As already mentioned, you will need some roller gauges and Peco produce a track gauge that has the right gauges for OO, EM and P4 on it.  I have also recently bought a Slater's triangular gauge which I hope will enable some gauge widening for curves and crossings because I have found that some of my points seem to narrow in gauge when I do crossovers which can make them a bit tight for all locos to use.

 

Don't be put off if your first efforts don't meet your expectations - this is one area of the hobby that benefits from lots of practice and learning from your previous mistakes.  Once mastered and your loco and other stock runs through smoothly without derailing, you will be eager to get on with making more adventurous pointwork.  Overall, it will work out much cheaper than buying RTR track and will look much better because you can produce bespoke pointwork.

 

Good luck.

[hayfield]

If working in the finer gauges then a 3 point gauge is useful as mentioned to gauge widen on tighter radii. 00 gauge does not need this as it has an inbuilt gauge widening within the design of the wheels. These gauges are expensive well worth their value if you plan to build a few turnouts and crossings especially with smaller radii. C&L sell the Exactoscale range of P4 gauges, very simple to use, not expensive. One pack for standard gauge another for gauge widened BUT P4 only

 

A word of warning about 3 point gauges and plastic chairs, These chairs have a prototypical 1-20 cant, which means the head of the rail has to rotate within the gauge. If the rail is held vertical whilst the solvent is setting once the gauge is removed the chair will relax back to the 1-20 cant and the track gauge will have narrowed. This is caused by either the slot in the gauge being slightly tight and or the slot being too deep. With soldered construction this obviously does not occur as the rail will remain vertical

[6029 King Stephen]

I bought my Slater's 3 point gauge from Wizard Models for about £4, if I remember correctly.  For your first attempts, I would suggest trying out a copperclad turnout as soldered construction is easier to fix if something goes wrong.  Plastic components fixed with Butanone solvent can be difficult to put right without causing damage to sleepers and the chair.  Once you have perfected the contruction technique, you will be ready to move on to plastic components which overall, will look more realistic than soldered pointwork.  For ease and speed of construction, you cannot fault soldered pointwork.  For joining lengths of code 75 bullhead, Norman Solomon suggests using Peco Z gauge rail joiners but I prefer to use the Exactoscale working four bolt plastic fishplate.  If you use a dropper wire on each section of track, as recommended for DCC, then you don't need metal joiners.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

[Ashley_]

Ashley

 

There is plenty of very useful items about building your own trackwork on this site. Knowing what scale and gauge you are working in will allow us to give more specific advice as would knowing what stock you have and what you are trying to achieve

 

Both books recommended are well worth a read and the methods shown can be transferred to various scales and gauges

 

If you are modelling to 00 gauge many of us cut out teeth on SMP copperclad kits

 

http://marcway.net/list3.php?col=head&name=OO+COPPER+CLAD+KITS

They need soldering together, but come as a complete kit of parts, plans and instructions are quite inexpensive

 

Do buy a couple of roller gauges with the first one

 

They also supply a plastic based kit

http://marcway.net/list3.php?col=head&name=OO+POINT+KITS+PLASTIC+BASED

 

These options are a good start to learning how to build trackwork without investing larger sums of money

When buying from these people do i have to order over the phone or have i missed something. Ash

[Bernard Lamb]

When buying from these people do i have to order over the phone or have i missed something. Ash

By phone is the way to do it.

They are very friendly people.

Bernard

[hayfield]

Ash

 

I normally get my parts from C&L but have in the past bought from Marcway, who had (and assume still have) an equally excellent service

 

The kit is in my opinion the best entry method for track building, though I have never built one the plastic based kit may be easier to build, as the timbers are ready made and no soldering the rail to the sleepers is required, as they are a slide to fit. I guess you still have to cut and file the rail and there may still be a limited amount of soldering

 

If buying a copperclad kit also get a 00 code 75 roller gauge, 2 are preferable but as its your first go you may wish to keep the costs down. Buy a normal turnout first and keep away from 3 ways and slips