Jon Fitness' average 7mm signals workbench.

[The Stationmaster]

Wonderful Jon, looks superb! What was the reason for the fixed distant, any idea?

 

 

 

Rich

 

Providing a Fixed Distant in this situation was standard GWR practice from, roughly, the time of the Great War (I might be able to date it more exactly but it will take ages to plough through the Minute Books so I won't bother as the reason is more important than exact dates).

 

The reason is remarkably simple in that the GWR decided to use a Distant Fixed at Caution in respect of any block post where a there was restriction of line speed to 15 mph or lower within Station Limits [or between the Distant and Home Signals*].  As such a restriction inevitably existed at virtually all single line crossing loops it was more or less inevitable that Distant Signals applying to such block posts would be Fixed at Caution.  Both the block posts in advance of Talyllyn Jcn had, in effect, an involvement with single line signalling and a need to exchange or obtain a token - hence there was restriction of speed hence both 'boxes had Distant signals Fixed at Caution.

 

On a GWR single line the only place you would normally find worked Distant Signals would be for level crossing worked by a Crossing Keeoper and which were not a block post.

 

Note *: Quite how often the ruling was applied between Distant and Home Signal in respect of Fixed Distants is debatable however it was consistently applied to worked Distants if there was a temporary restriction of speed to 15mph or lower between the Distant and Home Signals.

[MarshLane]

Providing a Fixed Distant in this situation was standard GWR practice from, roughly, the time of the Great War.  The reason is remarkably simple in that the GWR decided to use a Distant Fixed at Caution in respect of any block post where a there was restriction of line speed to 15 mph or lower within Station Limits [or between the Distant and Home Signals*].  As such a restriction inevitably existed at virtually all single line crossing loops it was more or less inevitable that Distant Signals applying to such block posts would be Fixed at Caution.  Both the block posts in advance of Talyllyn Jcn had, in effect, an involvement with single line signalling and a need to exchange or obtain a token - hence there was restriction of speed hence both 'boxes had Distant signals Fixed at Caution.

 

 

Well I've learnt something today, thanks for that.  Very interesting - sorry to have hijacked the threat Jinty

 

Rich

[Jon Fitness]

 

.....and here's a little video of them on test....

 

 

hope you like it!

 

JF

[Jon Fitness]

Back to the LMS U/Qs now  !

A triple shunt signal fitted with SMD LEDs and also to be fitted with servos, now ready for the paint shop. All the little bolting plates were fitted with my RSU which is just what the thing is best at! (Any excuse for a play with the RSU!  )

 

Whilst the white paint spray on the shunt signal hardens off, it's time to start another one. This one's for our layout so I'll have to do this one fairly quick between the paid ones!  

It's an LMS lattice post balanced 3 doll bracket made up from some etches done for me. I'd previously made up the main post but found another piece that I'd chopped a bit from when building another. It was still just about tall enough so I mounted it on a base

 and covered up the rough bit at the bottom!

 

 

The trimmers added from 5mm machined brass channel and the brackets folded up and fitted. The old rivet punch works over time on these structures!

The etches are quite flimsy and I've had to be careful during handling but I've still managed the odd dinge here and there. Not sure I'd be confident enough to offer this type of signal to a customer yet so These will be a bit of practise I suppose!

 

 

More soon

 

JF

[Jon Fitness]

A little more progress on the bracket signal with all the dolls placed in position. They aren't fixed in yet and won't be until all the various fittings, LEDs etc are on. 

 

Got some paint on the triple shunt signal so it's just waiting for the servos and operating wires and a splodge of grime!

 

 

More soon

JF

Edit..just realised I haven't provided a wire loop to restrain the drive wires. Bugga!  may be able to solder something to one of the ladder support bars.

Edited December 15, 2016 by Jon Fitness

[MarshLane]

Looking great Jon.

 

Like the triple shunt! One of those is needed for Arksey! Need to have a chat with you soon after Christmas and nail down the pegs for the BIG layout.

 

Rich

[Jon Fitness]

Looking great Jon.

 

Like the triple shunt! One of those is needed for Arksey! Need to have a chat with you soon after Christmas and nail down the pegs for the BIG layout.

 

Rich

Nail 'em down? A couple of small screws maybe......

 

JF

[two tone green]

Hi Jon,

 

What do you use for the wire restraints. Its one thing I need to look at and had considered very fine needles fitted in a hole in the post and soldered in place.

 

The very fine needles have a small hole about right size for the drive wires. The can be cut to various lengths to match the position of the guide wires where there are multiple wires and stacked on top of each other.

 

May be worth a try, need to give it a try.

[MarshLane]

Nail 'em down? A couple of small screws maybe......

JF

Haha I'm making sure nobody can do a Network Rail and replace them with colour lights controlled from the west side of mars!!

 

Rich

[Jon Fitness]

Hi Jon,

 

What do you use for the wire restraints. Its one thing I need to look at and had considered very fine needles fitted in a hole in the post and soldered in place.

 

The very fine needles have a small hole about right size for the drive wires. The can be cut to various lengths to match the position of the guide wires where there are multiple wires and stacked on top of each other.

 

May be worth a try, need to give it a try.

I usually just use an old tail snipped off an LED soldered to the post and bent round once the wires are in place. On GW signals they are more substantial and I'll usually use a thicker piece if brass (1mmX 0.5mm) drilled for however many wires there are, soldered right round the post like a strap then the end with the holes twisted horizontal. If I can get my @rse in gear I will be making some masters for GW style wire restraints and have them cast in brass.

HTH

JF

Edited December 15, 2016 by Jon Fitness

[two tone green]

Hi Jon,

 

Yes agree about the strap idea as it is what I was initially going to do for multiple wires when the needle idea popped into my head for a single wire guide. simple and easy.

 

Would be very interested in the cast guides if you want a partner in costs. Cant help with the masters buy happy to put cash into doing them.

[Poggy1165]

This thread has to be a contender for the best on the whole RMweb site! I just love all the signals; it's inspirational to see them. Proper signals are one of the highlights of 7mm scale to me, it's probably the smallest scale to convey the chunky feel of the real thing.

[Jon Fitness]

Hi Jon,

 

Yes agree about the strap idea as it is what I was initially going to do for multiple wires when the needle idea popped into my head for a single wire guide. simple and easy.

 

Would be very interested in the cast guides if you want a partner in costs. Cant help with the masters buy happy to put cash into doing them.

Thanks, I'll see how things go with the castings! I think the needle idea is possibly a non starter as they are generally quite a brittle steel. Would be fun trying to snip up and solder one of those on!

JF

[two tone green]

Yes, that was my main concern about the brittleness of them. Cutting is not a problem with some good quality snips. I have some high quality flush cutters capable of handing such material so will give it a go.

 

I have cut them before with a cutting disc in a mini drill.

 

I have some spare brass tube and if a hole is drilled straight through horizontally with the needle flush at the far side way from the eye it may well work as it will be supported at both ends. Its not loaded as its only acting as a guide so it could be even, dare I say it,  super glued in place.

 

Shock Horror. Glue on brass !!!!!

 

This weekend I will give it a go if I can sneak a look in SWMBO needle box. This may well be my last post ever !!!!!

[Jon Fitness]

This thread has to be a contender for the best on the whole RMweb site! I just love all the signals; it's inspirational to see them. Proper signals are one of the highlights of 7mm scale to me, it's probably the smallest scale to convey the chunky feel of the real thing.

Oooh    er.. well I wouldn't go that far but thanks anyway. Don't forget the real signalmeister....his work is exquisite!

Quite agree about 7mm scale for the chunkiness of signals though, mainly as I couldn't manage owt smaller!!

 

JF

[Jon Fitness]

Yes, that was my main concern about the brittleness of them. Cutting is not a problem with some good quality snips. I have some high quality flush cutters capable of handing such material so will give it a go.

 

I have cut them before with a cutting disc in a mini drill.

 

I have some spare brass tube and if a hole is drilled straight through horizontally with the needle flush at the far side way from the eye it may well work as it will be supported at both ends. Its not loaded as its only acting as a guide so it could be even, dare I say it,  super glued in place.

 

Shock Horror. Glue on brass !!!!!

 

This weekend I will give it a go if I can sneak a look in SWMBO needle box. This may well be my last post ever !!!!!

I'd be keen to see the results!** Don't forget though, a closed loop means threading the wire through but a bendy bit of wire (like on LMS U/Qs) can be looped around the wires once they are on!

 

**especially if swmbo catches you pilfering her best needles!

 

JF

[two tone green]

I will post results if I survive the foray into the unknown.

[Steve Hewitt]

Oooh    er.. well I wouldn't go that far but thanks anyway. Don't forget the real signalmeister....his work is exquisite!

Quite agree about 7mm scale for the chunkiness of signals though, mainly as I couldn't manage owt smaller!!

 

JF

You're too kind Jon.

I look to your thread for inspiration.

 

Steve.

[Jon Fitness]

The triple shunt signals is now all done and dusted. Linked up, tested and weathered I took it outside to take advantage of the short lived sunshine!

 

 

Further work on the bracket signal was adding the bolting plates and TC diamonds to the dolls, fitting and wiring the LEDs and installing the dolls on the structure. Here's a few details of LED fitting.

Soldering the wire to the LED held (gently!) in the vice..

 

 

Wire fed down the doll and the LED fitted to the lamp case (the castings are a bit ruff as I made the masters with the gap filed way too large)

 

 

Wires are then fed down the structure to the base and the dolls soldered to the trimmer plates.

 

 

The lamp cases then have a "lens" dropped in made by a drop of 5 minute epoxy.

 

 

More soon and maybe a video too!

 

JF

 

 

[Jon Fitness]

 

Here we go...

 

 

 

hopefully it's embedded

 

JF

[Tove]

Crack`in work Jon,just sublime.

 

I don`t know where you get the patience from for some of your build`s.....

 

Brian.

[Jon Fitness]

Cheers Brian. I'm not sure where I get the patience from either. That's why I can't do demos at a show. I get way too sweary when it goes wrong! As for building track... wouldn't even know where to start!

JF

[Steve Hewitt]

Cheers Brian. I'm not sure where I get the patience from either. That's why I can't do demos at a show. I get way too sweary when it goes wrong! As for building track... wouldn't even know where to start!

JF

Hi Jon,

 

I find I don't actually build anything at a Demo.

I love showing and explaining what I do and how I build my signals, but anything I actually try to build ends up as a  "Wagon Load".

 

Demonstrating is such a change from working alone in my workshop, where RMweb's about the only "Modelling" contact I have.

 

Steve.

[Jon Fitness]

I think Rmweb is as close to demo-ing as I'll get. As you say, it's always nice to sit down for a chat though (and swap a few ideas too).

JF

[Jon Fitness]

Had a good session on the bracket signal.  

 

The signals will be linked up to the usual LMS style cross shafts and although there's many ways to do this, this is how I do it.

A seperate carrier is made and bolted through the trimmers. I solder the bolts to the carrier as access to heads with everything attached is too tight.

 

The cross shafts are made from different diameter microbore tubes with operating arms soldered on and run on an axle across the trimmers. designing these, getting the arm alignment correct and getting everything on in the right order tax my feeble mind rather  but this is the set out for this signal.

Posting pictures of how its done is far easier than tring to explain it!  

 

The raised "pad" for the ultra micro servos to sit on. I'm using these as space is severely limited under the board where the signal will be on our layout.

 

 

The partly assembled tubes etc

 

 

To stop everything soldering solid when the tubes are set up (which traps them permanently together) I blacken one end.

 

 

and soldered

 

 

and assembled (phew!)

 

 

and trial fitted to the signal..

 

 

It'll all come apart for painting thankfully!

 

I think that's all the assembly I can do until painting has been done. The front handrail can't be fitted until all the signals are linked up so here it is in all its tatty dirty and slightly rough form, ready to be picked at with knives files and scrapers and the F/G brush. It'll then get scrubbed up with a tooth brush and some stainles steel cleaning spray.

 

Anyway, That's it for a few days now so y'all have a nice crimbo and there'll be more after that's over!!  

Cheers

JF

 

 

Edited December 22, 2016 by Jon Fitness