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Jon Fitness' average 7mm signals workbench.


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Jon,

 

Have you tried Halford's Ford signal yellow?  I don't know what it's like nowadays or if the shade has changed but I used some years ago for a ground disc (12":1ft scale) and nobody could tell the difference from Reading's original colour. 

Not sure it's still available "off the shelf" but I'll re-check again next time I'm in there. I have used their paint mixing service but it  seems a bit hit and miss and I think the tins/nozzles/chemistry are all slightly different when the they fill them up.

JF

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A couple of GWR straight post tubies to do then I think it's time for Talyllyn Jc's signals...

 

JF

 

 

Talking of GWR Bracket signals..............

Can't wait!!!

 

Love the ground signals Jon, I believe I'll need some of those too at some point, I think there is a double/triple too!!

 

Jinty ;)

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Talking of GWR Bracket signals..............

Can't wait!!!

 

Love the ground signals Jon, I believe I'll need some of those too at some point, I think there is a double/triple too!!

 

Jinty ;)

Ooh, I'd better stock up on some more bits then!

Found another nice pic of the Jc signal iin October Steam World too..

JF

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Super thread you have John, very impressive detail. Also like the way you have stacked those servos, something I'm going to have to tackle with my 4mm efforts. . .

Regards,

Martyn

Thanks Martyn! I expect it would work just as well in 4mm but You may need to stack them vertically to reduce the size of the baseplate. Alternatively you could use the submicro servos I use for the ground signals. They are smaller than a postage stamp !

 

JF

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have another 3 signals on the go now (all of which will have received the first 2 coats of white by now!)

There's a couple of GW stop signals and an LMS 2 arm shunt signal. Here they are waiting to be scrubbed up for painting and fitting with servos.

post-7179-0-12407500-1475878235_thumb.jpg

The GW ones will be the first I have fitted with the Modelu 3D printed finials. They are excellent but have a flat base which makes them a little vulnerable if they are simply glued on to the top of a post. They are wide enough at the base to be (carefully) drilled so that they correctly cap the post.

post-7179-0-56055900-1475878205_thumb.jpg

and drilled out

post-7179-0-01474200-1475878223_thumb.jpg

 Just tried in position, they will be epoxied on once the main signal structure has been washed and dried ready for painting.

post-7179-0-73097000-1475878248_thumb.jpg

More soon

Off to the Worth Valley for the steam gala and a 7mm scale exhibition at Keighley MRC's clubroom on Sunday :imsohappy: 

 

JF

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Thanks Martyn! I expect it would work just as well in 4mm but You may need to stack them vertically to reduce the size of the baseplate. Alternatively you could use the submicro servos I use for the ground signals. They are smaller than a postage stamp !JF

Thanks Jon, had a play around with the servos at Club the other night but have a slight issue in that they are digital so may need a more specific controller (think I may have killed one when testing with a 4.8v DC supply) so they have been put aside for now. Instead I am going to try some simple Hattons solenoid point motors (which have an actuating arm attachment) as my signals have cranks fitted so need a horizontal input. No slow action of course but should be easy enough to fit, I hope! Enjoy the K&WVR weekend.

Martyn.

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Thanks Jon, had a play around with the servos at Club the other night but have a slight issue in that they are digital so may need a more specific controller (think I may have killed one when testing with a 4.8v DC supply) so they have been put aside for now. Instead I am going to try some simple Hattons solenoid point motors (which have an actuating arm attachment) as my signals have cranks fitted so need a horizontal input. No slow action of course but should be easy enough to fit, I hope! Enjoy the K&WVR weekend.

Martyn.

Ooh, testing with a 4.8v supply ? Only thing you can safely test a servo with is a proper servo tester or a driver board ! They can't be moved just by applying volts as they operate by a series of carefully applied pulses provided by a driver board. Careful using solenoids with your signal too as they're a bit violent!

Cheers

JF

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Ooh, testing with a 4.8v supply ? Only thing you can safely test a servo with is a proper servo tester or a driver board ! They can't be moved just by applying volts as they operate by a series of carefully applied pulses provided by a driver board. Careful using solenoids with your signal too as they're a bit violent!

Cheers

JF

Yes, from the sparking which occurred you'd think I hooked it up direct to the mains! Traditional model railway wiring I can do, and even understand, so I will stick with that! I usually use Fulgurex/Lemaco slow action motors for signals but space precludes them for this job. The cranks fitted to the base of the signal allow for a much greater input movement than signal movement so hopefully all will be well. . . !

Cheers,

Martyn

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Yes, from the sparking which occurred you'd think I hooked it up direct to the mains! Traditional model railway wiring I can do, and even understand, so I will stick with that! I usually use Fulgurex/Lemaco slow action motors for signals but space precludes them for this job. The cranks fitted to the base of the signal allow for a much greater input movement than signal movement so hopefully all will be well. . . !

Cheers,

Martyn

Stick with the servos Martyn, there's plenty of options for driver boards and they're fairly easy to set up. Servos are much smaller than slow action point motors and more controllable. They are quieter too! As you can see, I fit the servos to the base of the signals which means there's no need to grub about under the baseboard trying to couple up linkages to the signals when you install them. You can also do all the setting up and testing on the bench before installation. Should you need to remove the signal from the layout for transport/maintenance or repairs?...simples.

JF

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Stick with the servos Martyn, there's plenty of options for driver boards and they're fairly easy to set up. Servos are much smaller than slow action point motors and more controllable. They are quieter too! As you can see, I fit the servos to the base of the signals which means there's no need to grub about under the baseboard trying to couple up linkages to the signals when you install them. You can also do all the setting up and testing on the bench before installation. Should you need to remove the signal from the layout for transport/maintenance or repairs?...simples.

JF

Thanks Jon, it is something I will look into for future efforts, can I ask where you get yours and which servos and driver boards you recommend? As this is one aspect I am a complete novice at.

Cheers,

Martyn.

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Thanks Jon, it is something I will look into for future efforts, can I ask where you get yours and which servos and driver boards you recommend? As this is one aspect I am a complete novice at.

Cheers,

Martyn.

Hi Martyn, I now get my servos from Hobbyking and they are:-

 

Normal cheapy servos here

 

Super small servos here

 

If you really need one, a servo tester here

 

and the driver boards from Megapoints here

 

A quick note about Hobbyking! Make sure  you're ordering from their UK Warehouse site, not the International site or they may send stuff from USA which will incur extra fees (guess how this numpty found out! :fool: )

 

JF

Edited by Jon Fitness
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Hi Martyn, I now get my servos from Hobbyking and they are:-

 

Normal cheapy servos here

 

Super small servos here

 

If you really need one, a servo tester here

 

and the driver boards from Megapoints here

 

A quick note about Hobbyking! Make sure  you're ordering from their UK Warehouse site, not the International site or they may send stuff from USA which will incur extra fees (guess how this numpty found out! :fool: )

 

JF

Sometimes, nay quite often the UK warehouse can be out of stock, whereas I can usually get what I need from the European one (at the moment), which from memory is in the Netherlands, takes longer to arrive. Mind you even, the UK ones are priced in US dollars when you check out (despite what is shown on the website) so will currently be costing more due to the drop in value of the pound.

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And a word for Arduinos.

 

They can be programmed to do almost anything, including signal operation by servo, the downside being that they have to be programmed, and if you're not experienced, or at least that way inclined, this aspect will need some effort.

 

They are, however, very much cheaper than other forms of servo controller.

 

Best

Simon

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Hi Martyn, I now get my servos from Hobbyking and they are:-

 

Normal cheapy servos here

 

Super small servos here

 

If you really need one, a servo tester here

 

and the driver boards from Megapoints here

 

A quick note about Hobbyking! Make sure you're ordering from their UK Warehouse site, not the International site or they may send stuff from USA which will incur extra fees (guess how this numpty found out! :fool: )

 

JF

Thanks Jon (& Stephen & Simon), I am familiar with Hobbyking and their different warehouses, having had people say much the same as you Jon!

 

In reference to servo set up programming & driver boards, does this require DCC? As I have no intention (ie can't afford/justify) to move away from analogue control?

Martyn.

Edited by Signaller69
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Thanks Jon (& Stephen & Simon), I am familiar with Hobbyking and their different warehouses, having had people say much the same as you Jon!

 

In reference to servo set up programming & driver boards, does this require DCC? As I have no intention (ie can't afford/justify) to move away from analogue control?

Martyn.

No DCC required for the Megapoints board as once set up (a lot of button pressing on the board itself!) each servo is activated by a simple on/off switch.

HTH

JF

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ditto - no DCC required for the MERG board, and an Arduino based approach.  (and I guess, though I have no experience, for Raspberry Pi and PIC based microcontrollers too)

 

Both the MERG and Arduino approaches can be made to work with DCC if required.

 

best

Simon

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  • 3 weeks later...

A few more signals now  ticked off the construction list....

post-7179-0-17026100-1477619156_thumb.jpg

post-7179-0-87872100-1477619159_thumb.jpg

post-7179-0-89812800-1477619162_thumb.jpg

 

Now it's time to make a start on a couple for certain RMWeb'ers layout...

 

The arms prepared for the bracket and the starter signal

post-7179-0-45354700-1477619166_thumb.jpg

post-7179-0-98504700-1477619169_thumb.jpg

They are all the early GW type with the distants being fixed well below the home signals, one on a gallows type arrangement. The 2 stop arms on the bracket have wooden blades but the platform starter has a pressed steel blade. I have represented this by soldering 0.4mm wire along the edges. One of the arms on the bracket signal has a slightly different spectacle plate. I'm not sure if this is due to damage to the casting or if it's an earlier pattern than the other. Either way it involved a bit of careful filing!

I've also made a start on the actual brackets, these being much modified Scale Signal Supply etches. There's still a few bits to solder on to them and yes, my riveting could have been a bit neater!

post-7179-0-80822000-1477619174_thumb.jpg

More soon

JF

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Severn Tunnel West!!!! Oh my!! Oh my.

I'm going to see a room within a premises on Monday with the aim of setting up an O gauge group. A meeting spot to run trains. With if all goes to plan Severn tunnel East & West being the scenic section.

Early days yet, still all the ins and outs to agree but they are willing to allow me to use it.

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  • RMweb Gold

Severn Tunnel West!!!! Oh my!! Oh my.

I'm going to see a room within a premises on Monday with the aim of setting up an O gauge group. A meeting spot to run trains. With if all goes to plan Severn tunnel East & West being the scenic section.

Early days yet, still all the ins and outs to agree but they are willing to allow me to use it.

 

The interesting question with that one must be where the ATC ramp was sited as the scissors crossover was (as can be seen immediately in advance) of the signal so i wonder if the ramp was in advance of it or in the middle of the crossover?

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