Jon Fitness Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 (edited) A few years ago, I built a 4 doll ex L&Y balanced bracket signal for our layout. (See page 15 for that one!) I've been asked to build a version of this for a customer but to make it a little more "light railway" flavoured! I suggested a lower quadrant version of it and this was accepted. Rather than simply fit it with L&Y arms, I have some Stevens pattern arms to fit and I'll dig out some suitable finials for it too. First up was to prepare some brackets. These have an extra flange along the curved face to add a little texture. The trimmers (that are on the etch with the brackets) made up and joined together, spaced apart with short sections of square brass tube for the dolls. This is the type of arms I'm using. The base plate with a length of brass tube soldered underneath to take the main post Once the main post was fitted, the space in the tube was filled with 5 minute epoxy glue. Fortunately, this one will not be fitted with working lamps so no digging slots in the post/dolls and no wires to fit The lower quadrant arms pivot through the dolls rather than a bearing on the side. I used some bearing plates from another etch fitted with short lengths of 1mm I/D brass tube. The first trial assembly of arms on the dolls... More soon. JF Edited June 13, 2016 by Jon Fitness 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 You don't hang about!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 You don't hang about!!LOL. Just like a cat, a quick burst of activity then it all goes quiet again...JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 I just got back from a weekend "oop norf" to discover the most recent "quick burst of activity" by the cat had resulted in the entrails of a small furry animal (or two, didn't look too closely) festooned across the door mat, just where you tread as you step in. He's now "all gone quiet again" in a recumbent pose on our bed, with a smug grin on his chops. No wonder he was re-christened "Cazzo". Best Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 I just got back from a weekend "oop norf" to discover the most recent "quick burst of activity" by the cat had resulted in the entrails of a small furry animal (or two, didn't look too closely) festooned across the door mat, just where you tread as you step in.He's now "all gone quiet again" in a recumbent pose on our bed, with a smug grin on his chops. No wonder he was re-christened "Cazzo". Best Simon[/quote/ I rest my case m'lud... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted June 26, 2016 Author Share Posted June 26, 2016 Although I've been grabbing an hour or 2 at the bench between 12hour shifts, life in general seems to be keeping me away at the moment. Whilst rootling through various bits on shelves etc, I keep tripping over this old spare signal that's been lurking at the edge of my bench. It was taken out a couple of years ago when some scenic changes took place. I decided to take it back to our layout and re-install it in a different place. I swapped out a small restricted clearance signal which will be used elsewhere and plugged this one in it's place. A quick job which went easily and has changed the look of this corner.... More soon JF 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 (edited) Warning! Loadsa pictures ahead! The mechanical work on the bracket signal is almost done now. I think I must have subcontracted the work out to a certain W. Heath-Robinson again.... I hit upon the idea of using lace pins to make the connection to the main arms. I bent the head of the pin at 90 degrees, fed the pin through and attached the drive wire with some 0.7mm internal bore tube. The pins were a bit hard and needed annealing so they wouldn't snap when bent. The next bit of daftness was to keep the weight bars at the base of the main post, meaning all the linkages on the upper parts were just that and not weight bars. More Heath-Robinson ideas ensued... Along with some fairly normal bellcranks , a rocker arm was incorporated on one doll to change the pull direction and move the motion across. The rocker arm is made from some leftover brake linkage bits from a Steve Beattie Co-Bo kit. Getting a little closer now with staging and weight bars fitted and now with the first bits of paint started... Had a quick break on my beloved Isle of Wight last week. I took a little project with me in the form of a LNER ground signal just in case of crap weather. In between volunteering on the IOW steam railway and the bus museum, there were a few damp hours to occupy... This is what's in the packet. If you intend to operate the signal, the whitemetal stem is not really up to it so in this case I replaced it with some brass channel and tube The lamp case was hacked out to accept an SMD LED A 14BA bolt was soldered to the back of the disc to form an axle. With the post/stem fitted to a small base, this is the basic structure The LED has the negative tab very carefully soldered to the lamp case and a length of fine wire soldered to the positive tab. With these small SMD devices, I only take one stab at each solder joint with a minute or two between them to minimise heat build up. On test... A bit more work took the assembly to here which was all I could do with what I had with me. Once it got home, I fitted one of my sub micro servos, and wafted some paint on the main parts. More soon and I'll try and ease off with the number of pics! JF Edited July 4, 2016 by Jon Fitness 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted July 4, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 4, 2016 What you do with signals amazes me! More superb work! Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted July 4, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 4, 2016 Inspirational as usual Jon. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 Jon Don't ease off on anything! We like pictures!!' (and get Billy C on here) Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Hi, SMD LEDs are as you know heat sensitive and you really need a Temperature Controlled Soldering station with the temperature set to about 350C max, no more or you risk frying them. Set at that temperature, with a very fine bit it is possible to have multiple tries if you are careful with little or no risk. Warm white LEDs are also available of course, though they are a little more expensive but IMHO worth it as they give a more prototypical light. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Ok, in view of Stephen's advice, ease off on the temperature! But we still like photos! S Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Ok, in view of Stephen's advice, ease off on the temperature! But we still like photos! S Of course. With regard to temperature I think you are probably OK up to 360C but I prefer to play safe. I only know because I once read such advice from a supplier of these LEDs some years ago and usually have a near 100% success rate with them as a result, a 1k resistor is of course required. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 I don't know about Jon, but I have no easy way of checking the calibration of my Maplin digitally controlled soldering iron (except perhaps, checking the melting points of various solders) so erring on the side of safety seems wise thanks for the info Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Hi, Well I do have a Maplin TC Soldering Station A55KJ with the digital readout (no reason to doubt its reading) but I normally use my Antex TC660 with a TC50 set to 350C purely because mine is fitted with a finer tip and saves me having to swap tips just to do the smds. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Looking superb Jon as always. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted July 5, 2016 Author Share Posted July 5, 2016 What you do with signals amazes me! More superb work! Rich Thanks Rich, your first ground signal is now complete Inspirational as usual Jon. Steve. Cheers Steve, still envy your engineering capabilities! Jon Don't ease off on anything! We like pictures!!' (and get Billy C on here) Best Simon Hi Simon. I think my biggest challenge ever would be to get Billy C on here. He's yet to master texting! Actually no, there's a bigger challenge ahead...getting him to have a go at his newly re-commissioned casting machine to get his range of 7mm scale bogies back on line. I'm still experimenting with it for him but he's still after the elusive "black book" that contains all the spin speeds and metal temperatures for each mould that should have come with the machine from it's previous owner. Hi, SMD LEDs are as you know heat sensitive and you really need a Temperature Controlled Soldering station with the temperature set to about 350C max, no more or you risk frying them. Set at that temperature, with a very fine bit it is possible to have multiple tries if you are careful with little or no risk. Warm white LEDs are also available of course, though they are a little more expensive but IMHO worth it as they give a more prototypical light. Hi Stephen, the SMDs I'm using are warm whites and need something like a 7.5k resistor to fully protect them at 12v. I solder them with 145 solder using a 15w Antex with the largest bit I can get away with. My logic (be it right or wrong!) is get in and out as quick as possible! If I used a smaller bit or reduced the temperature I would have to linger too long with the iron and too much material would get hot and retain the heat longer than needed before the solder would run. Ok, in view of Stephen's advice, ease off on the temperature! But we still like photos! S I'll ease off a bit with both to be on the safe side! Of course. With regard to temperature I think you are probably OK up to 360C but I prefer to play safe. I only know because I once read such advice from a supplier of these LEDs some years ago and usually have a near 100% success rate with them as a result, a 1k resistor is of course required. I'm still not 100% confident with the SMDs but I am increasing both my success and reliability rates! Hi, Well I do have a Maplin TC Soldering Station A55KJ with the digital readout (no reason to doubt its reading) but I normally use my Antex TC660 with a TC50 set to 350C purely because mine is fitted with a finer tip and saves me having to swap tips just to do the smds. I have the same soldering station but having messed around with the tip/fixing I cant really change it now so it only get's used for normal/larger jobs. Anyway after all that waffle here's the bracket signal with the painted and glazed arms trial fitted. Wish me luck, it's linkage time next! The ground signal is all finished and works quite well. The LED has it's 7.5k resistor and is connected to a 9v PP3 to show the brightness expected. Should finish the bracket signal sometime tomorrow (he says hopefully!) Many thanks for the continued "likes" etc. I'm blushing here!! JF 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Jon, That last "like" was ironic.... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jintyman Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 I use SMD LED's and I'm a little short on finesse............... 40W Weller, in and out like a Jack Rabbit, and I haven't had one fail yet!!! In fact, I use my Weller for just about most things really (sledgehammer to crack a nut!!!), never got on with temp controlled irons. Jon, great work on the shunting disc and the bracket signal too!!! Your work is exceptional, it really is. Jinty 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNERGE Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Thanks Rich, your first ground signal is now complete Cheers Steve, still envy your engineering capabilities! Hi Simon. I think my biggest challenge ever would be to get Billy C on here. He's yet to master texting! Actually no, there's a bigger challenge ahead...getting him to have a go at his newly re-commissioned casting machine to get his range of 7mm scale bogies back on line. I'm still experimenting with it for him but he's still after the elusive "black book" that contains all the spin speeds and metal temperatures for each mould that should have come with the machine from it's previous owner. Hi Stephen, the SMDs I'm using are warm whites and need something like a 7.5k resistor to fully protect them at 12v. I solder them with 145 solder using a 15w Antex with the largest bit I can get away with. My logic (be it right or wrong!) is get in and out as quick as possible! If I used a smaller bit or reduced the temperature I would have to linger too long with the iron and too much material would get hot and retain the heat longer than needed before the solder would run. I'll ease off a bit with both to be on the safe side! I'm still not 100% confident with the SMDs but I am increasing both my success and reliability rates! I have the same soldering station but having messed around with the tip/fixing I cant really change it now so it only get's used for normal/larger jobs. Anyway after all that waffle here's the bracket signal with the painted and glazed arms trial fitted. Wish me luck, it's linkage time next! IMG_3778 (768x1024).jpg The ground signal is all finished and works quite well. The LED has it's 7.5k resistor and is connected to a 9v PP3 to show the brightness expected. IMG_3775 (768x1024).jpg IMG_3776 (1024x768).jpg Should finish the bracket signal sometime tomorrow (he says hopefully!) Many thanks for the continued "likes" etc. I'm blushing here!! JF It is rather magnificent. Is the original fret on of Peter's? One little comment though. If it were scaled up it would cause a problem. The weight would drop on the signal wire. The weight arm should have a slight 's' in it. There's a few photo's in this album.. https://www.flickr.com/photos/32297024@N08/albums/72157645132659727 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted July 6, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 6, 2016 Thanks Rich, your first ground signal is now complete The ground signal is all finished and works quite well. The LED has it's 7.5k resistor and is connected to a 9v PP3 to show the brightness expected. IMG_3775 (768x1024).jpg IMG_3776 (1024x768).jpg Should finish the bracket signal sometime tomorrow (he says hopefully!) JF Thanks Jon, that was a nice surprise! Hadn't realised it was that far forward in the queue! I'll have to arrange collection with you ... superb job, first of many i hope! Thanks for all your time and work on that. Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted July 6, 2016 Author Share Posted July 6, 2016 It is rather magnificent. Is the original fret on of Peter's? One little comment though. If it were scaled up it would cause a problem. The weight would drop on the signal wire. The weight arm should have a slight 's' in it. There's a few photo's in this album.. https://www.flickr.com/photos/32297024@N08/albums/72157645132659727 Ah thanks for that, the etch is the MSE one rather than Petes. I rang him a few times when I needed a couple but couldn't get hold of him. I know Pete's one would probably be all brass. Hopefully I'll catch up with him at Telford. JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 Almost finished! Just remembered there's a couple of ladders to make up and fit to the dolls but apart from that...... More soon. JF 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Hi Jon, Can you confirm my measurements for the white band on a BR/ WR home signal please. Its the white band I am interested in. By my calculations it 6.5 mm from the end of the arm and 5.9mm wide. Do these seem right to you. Thanks Regards Andy Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 One other thing, its a 4ft arm so 28mm long in 7mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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