RMweb Gold Corbs Posted August 26, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 26, 2020 What do you think about it with darker wheels? 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 1 hour ago, Corbs said: What do you think about it with darker wheels? I much prefer that. Dark green or mucky black would both work Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 9 hours ago, willsheldrake said: Not sure if this has been mentioned yet, but a long time ago George Dent bashed about a Bachmann Junior not-Thomas 0-4-0T. It was to his usual standard of modeling and looked great. You can find out more on his blog http://georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot.com/2010/08/bess-is-in-demand.html Before After Fell like I should say something about copyright and all. I dont own these photos should suffice. The body is only attached to the footplate by screws. Allowing for easy modification or swapping parts around. I've lowered the Bachmanntanks and boiler unit by cutting off about 2 mm from the underside and made it look fatter by gluing on layers of plasticard with some rivet detail pushed in. Reshaped the cab cutouts. The saddle tank is a Hornby Percy sitting on the Bachmann chassis and footplate. 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted August 26, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 26, 2020 As I've said before, RelaxingHobby's bashes were some of my biggest inspirations 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpeffers Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 5 hours ago, Sophia NSE said: Still not entirely sure about the colour. Maybe the bright wheels aren't helping I agree they’re too bright. Gut feeling is that they’re also a bit too big? Could just be me, but I feel like the large wheel-short wheelbase combination draws the eye in as something that doesn’t quite look as you would expect. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 What's the best way of painting the wheels? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted August 26, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 26, 2020 I usually take the wheels off the chassis, take the rods off and use a small brush to get between the spokes etc. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGemAlchemist Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 1 hour ago, Corbs said: As I've said before, RelaxingHobby's bashes were some of my biggest inspirations The man is a marvel, I agree. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackRoomBoffin Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 4 hours ago, relaxinghobby said: The body is only attached to the footplate by screws. Allowing for easy modification or swapping parts around. I've lowered the Bachmanntanks and boiler unit by cutting off about 2 mm from the underside and made it look fatter by gluing on layers of plasticard with some rivet detail pushed in. Reshaped the cab cutouts. The saddle tank is a Hornby Percy sitting on the Bachmann chassis and footplate. One of the several things I appreciate about the left hand (green) loco is the shape of bufferbeam and the way the steps are integrated into it. You'll have a lot more direct experience of this over me, but I am beginning to realise in 'selling' a freelance loco, it's detail that sells the overall concept (not too much, it appears, but key things here and there). 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackRoomBoffin Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 6 hours ago, Sophia NSE said: I much prefer that. Dark green or mucky black would both work I vote for chocolate brown... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyMay Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 13 hours ago, Corbs said: What do you think about it with darker wheels? My 2D is that the front buffer beam needs to come slightly forwards, so that the cleaner can stand on it while cleaning out the smokebox and being in no danger of falling off. It looks a little front-heavy - but maybe the buffer beam extension would help with that. But if not, my second thought is that the driving wheels could be moved forwards a few mm, so that the total weight is balanced over them. This would need new splashers, so may be a bit drastic. The buffer beam, though... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm 0-6-0 Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 On 26/08/2020 at 20:38, Sophia NSE said: Still not entirely sure about the colour. Maybe the bright wheels aren't helping Wouldn't the doors to the cab foul the internal splashers over the rear set of wheels. Also besides the green/red combination which never works properly the front wheels are too far back. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted August 28, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 28, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, Malcolm 0-6-0 said: Also besides the green/red combination which never works properly Humm. Also, more pugbashly: Edited August 28, 2020 by Compound2632 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm 0-6-0 Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 Pale greens work with red, dark don't - I think it is a trick caused by the two shades being the opposite of each other on a chromatic scale or whatever it is by which action colour is reversed as in a photographic negative. To me the juxtaposition causes a flickering effect in how the brain perceives it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph the L&YR lover Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 so just make it more of a regular green and less of a dark green....or a darker red 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted August 28, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 28, 2020 2 hours ago, Malcolm 0-6-0 said: Pale greens work with red, dark don't - I think it is a trick caused by the two shades being the opposite of each other on a chromatic scale or whatever it is by which action colour is reversed as in a photographic negative. To me the juxtaposition causes a flickering effect in how the brain perceives it. Edward Fletcher would agree with you but numerous railways, notably the GWR and GCR used a darker green - mid chrome green - with red frames, albeit Indian red, a dark red. This was almost the default livery for locomotives in the mid-19th century. But colour on colour* is forbidden by the laws of heraldry. Those medievals were no fools - the laws were devised to facilitate battlefield recognition. Once the locomotive is lined out, the base colours will be "lifted" by the contrast and there won't be large blocks of green and red next to each other. *The colours being red, blue, black, green and purple, the last two being less frequently used. They could be placed on (or vice versa) the two metals, yellow an white. Those who started on Lego in the 60s or 70s will recognise the essential rightness of these choices. 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Pugbash Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 On 18/08/2020 at 23:34, BackRoomBoffin said: If you're trying to bash the Pug into an 0-6-0, I recommend this beastie from a not-too-far-away location (Gorton ... if you regard the Pugs as an adaptation of a Vulcan design, that's very near indeed): Ah thanks! i'll consider that one! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackRoomBoffin Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 On 28/08/2020 at 09:53, Compound2632 said: numerous railways, notably the GWR and GCR used a darker green - mid chrome green - with red frames, albeit Indian red, a dark red. This was almost the default livery for locomotives in the mid-19th century. But colour on colour* is forbidden by the laws of heraldry. Those medievals were no fools - the laws were devised to facilitate battlefield recognition. Once the locomotive is lined out, the base colours will be "lifted" by the contrast and there won't be large blocks of green and red next to each other. I'm not even sure lining is needed. Just painting the footplate black would provide a level of separation between the areas of green and black, and I don't see that that requires a darker red, personally. This image from online (grabbed at random) of a German Mallet shows the kind of thing I'm on about. Look how dingy that green, and how bright that red. No problem, just a hairline of black in between. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 The SECR liked green with red too and if it was good enough for them, it's good enough for me! The red wheels on the 0-6-0 will get a recolour eventually though. Anyway, the powers that be at the WKR have had an idea what to do with the original Q1 body... The front end will get the chop like the Q1. Now to work out how to get a pony truck in there Also, this was masquerading as a chimney top on an R1 body and is the perfect size for spectacle plates but I can't remember what it would be called. Help! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxUnpopuli Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 Looks like an eyelet, as used for reinforcing holes in leather, for shoelaces, &c. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 (edited) Hi, You can get replacement chimney tops for the R1 I believe from Peters Spares. if not the regularly appear on Ebay. I got one from Ebay earlier this year. Must admit I do not think that there is much difference between that eyelet and the origional chimney top..... Edited September 6, 2020 by cypherman 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 1 hour ago, FoxUnpopuli said: Looks like an eyelet, as used for reinforcing holes in leather, for shoelaces, &c. And readily available from places like HobbyCraft 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 22 minutes ago, cypherman said: Hi, You can get replacement chimney tops for the R1 I believe from Peters Spares. if not the regularly appear on Ebay. I got one from Ebay earlier this year. Must admit I do not think that there is much difference between that eyelet and the origional chimney top..... Already bought two of them this year, plus the long screw for the Dublo chassis! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 So far, so good 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 ive cobbled together some parts into a working chassis just for the thought of putting these wheels on that chassis. On the left are old dublo princess wheels, the centre were drilled out wonky many years ago so i filled them with milliput and now re drilled straight, the flange thickness has also been reduced to modern standard. i was going to use the XO motor but i lost one of the contacts the chassis is one of the generic 0-6-0's with the old wheels in the packet on the right assembled rolling chassis to 14.5mm back to back As said the Xo was a no-go so instead its a cheapo and i had to make up a mounting frame with a gear reduction. a flat had to be filed out of the chassis with slots cut for the tranverse gear just some pickups to make and its a runner, Though i have no idea what loco to make with it OO nor O16.5 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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