Barclay Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 I didn't even try - just put the body on a Triang-Hornby chassis instead! 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 I'm currently working on version 2 of my plasticard chassis and wondering on the best way to motorise it. I have one of the square motors found in the Hornby 14xx and also a tiny can motor that came from- actually its best not to ask where it came from! What else do I need to motorise it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Not exactly a pugbash but here's a thing I'm working on. The Hornby pug really does like nice with some light weathering and better cylinders 10 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BSW01 Posted January 15, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2021 1 hour ago, Sophia NSE said: I'm currently working on version 2 of my plasticard chassis and wondering on the best way to motorise it. I have one of the square motors found in the Hornby 14xx and also a tiny can motor that came from- actually its best not to ask where it came from! What else do I need to motorise it? The minimum you'll need is some sort of pick up system, fine brass wire, bent to rub on the sides or backs of the drive wheels. Each wire should be electrically isolated from the other then each connected to one of the two motor terminals. Finally a worm gear on the motor and drive gear on one axle. Hope that helps Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 4 minutes ago, BSW01 said: The minimum you'll need is some sort of pick up system, fine brass wire, bent to rub on the sides or backs of the drive wheels. Each wire should be electrically isolated from the other then each connected to one of the two motor terminals. Finally a worm gear on the motor and drive gear on one axle. Hope that helps I had most of that in mind. How do I go about electrically isolating the pickup wires from each other? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BSW01 Posted January 15, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2021 There are a couple of ways to do this, 1/ use a long thin piece of copperclad board, cut a groove down the centre, so that there is a left and right side, make sure you cut all the way through the copper. Each side is now isolated from the other. Use one side for each of the pick ups, solder the pick up and a wire to each side, the other end of the wires to the motor terminals. Or 2/ use a piece of plasticard, drill 2 small holes, then using a small nut and bolt, attach the pick up, then wire each to the plasticard, the other end of the wire to the motor terminal. 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 17 hours ago, BSW01 said: There are a couple of ways to do this, 1/ use a long thin piece of copperclad board, cut a groove down the centre, so that there is a left and right side, make sure you cut all the way through the copper. Each side is now isolated from the other. Use one side for each of the pick ups, solder the pick up and a wire to each side, the other end of the wires to the motor terminals. Or 2/ use a piece of plasticard, drill 2 small holes, then using a small nut and bolt, attach the pick up, then wire each to the plasticard, the other end of the wire to the motor terminal. Found this on the bottom of a knackered Airfix 14xx, so liberated it and soldered a pair of wires to it Also felt that my not Nellie needed a different look 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenNewland Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 On 15/01/2021 at 22:54, tubs01 said: Not exactly a pugbash but here's a thing I'm working on. The Hornby pug really does like nice with some light weathering and better cylinders Hi Tubs, What did you use to make those cylinders, are they from the Dapol/kitmaster pug kit? Am I right in assuming your connecting rod isn't connected to the slide bar? I've been eyeing up some plastic Dapol kit cylinders and seeing if they could fit another smokey joe, but the length of the slide bars seems to short for the range of motion needed. Any details gratefully received. I know other people on this thread have used spare motion from a GWR loco (castle class I think) -just the plastic components are free and many N gauge locos from Germany used plastic motion without problems. Thanks, Ben Ben 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 13 hours ago, BenNewland said: Hi Tubs, What did you use to make those cylinders, are they from the Dapol/kitmaster pug kit? Am I right in assuming your connecting rod isn't connected to the slide bar? I've been eyeing up some plastic Dapol kit cylinders and seeing if they could fit another smokey joe, but the length of the slide bars seems to short for the range of motion needed. Any details gratefully received. I know other people on this thread have used spare motion from a GWR loco (castle class I think) -just the plastic components are free and many N gauge locos from Germany used plastic motion without problems. Thanks, Ben Ben Yeah they're from the Dapol kit, I haven't got the connecting rods yet but when I do I'll just drill a hole wherever it's needed and trim the rest. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
33C Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 8 hours ago, tubs01 said: Yeah they're from the Dapol kit, I haven't got the connecting rods yet but when I do I'll just drill a hole wherever it's needed and trim the rest. Make 'em from thick 40/50 thou plasticard. I have and they work fine. Check out my Schools class, all plastic valve gear and track pin rivets! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Nurse, fetch the razor saw! 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenNewland Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 On 19/01/2021 at 11:35, tubs01 said: Yeah they're from the Dapol kit, I haven't got the connecting rods yet but when I do I'll just drill a hole wherever it's needed and trim the rest. Thanks Tubs, good to know, and thanks 33C about just using plastic for the connecting rod. I wouldn't have tried that, but if you say it works... I guess there is no load on it. Thanks, Ben 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenNewland Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 On 29/12/2020 at 10:39, TurboSnail said: Not yet, it hopefully will be shortly though! Made some more progress on it since last posted, along with the other Pugbash. Hey! You can't do that. You can't tease us with a half hidden cabless pugbash. I mean that is like torture on this thread! Ha, could we have more picures and info please. It looks fab. Ben 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 A bit of work tonight gives us this little beauty 16 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Belcher Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 12 hours ago, Sophia NSE said: A bit of work tonight gives us this little beauty Shades of the HR 0-4-4Ts that worked the Dornoch branch? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post TurboSnail Posted January 21, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted January 21, 2021 (edited) 16 hours ago, BenNewland said: Hey! You can't do that. You can't tease us with a half hidden cabless pugbash. I mean that is like torture on this thread! Ha, could we have more picures and info please. It looks fab. Ben I think I might have posted it a while back, but here goes - I can't get new pics as it's packed up in my stockbox somewhere, this is all I can find on my PC! It's got a replacement (i.e. much smaller) motor fitted in the backhead, which slides off vertically if I ever need to get the motor back out. Much of the cab structure is 3D printed. It also has new buffers to replace the dumb ones on the original, and the motion covers have been replaced with a crosshead/slidebar arrangement that actually works now. I think I gave it a new chimney too. Plus a few brass details, coal, crew etc. (and yes, I know the reverser is on the wrong side! Oops...). It runs well enough, still a bit quick for my liking but no worse than an unmodified Pug. Still needs a decent weathering, but it'll get that after I've built somewhere for it to run! Edited January 21, 2021 by TurboSnail 22 1 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 1 hour ago, David_Belcher said: Shades of the HR 0-4-4Ts that worked the Dornoch branch? It does a bit. Those locos had such tiny trailing wheels! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenNewland Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Thanks Tom, Very high quality work. Well done, thanks, and yes I think you may have posted it previously. I remember you saying about the smaller motor. Lovely paint job. Ben 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otis JB Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 On 21/01/2021 at 13:19, TurboSnail said: I think I might have posted it a while back, but here goes - I can't get new pics as it's packed up in my stockbox somewhere, this is all I can find on my PC! It's got a replacement (i.e. much smaller) motor fitted in the backhead, which slides off vertically if I ever need to get the motor back out. Much of the cab structure is 3D printed. It also has new buffers to replace the dumb ones on the original, and the motion covers have been replaced with a crosshead/slidebar arrangement that actually works now. I think I gave it a new chimney too. Plus a few brass details, coal, crew etc. (and yes, I know the reverser is on the wrong side! Oops...). It runs well enough, still a bit quick for my liking but no worse than an unmodified Pug. Still needs a decent weathering, but it'll get that after I've built somewhere for it to run! Gosh that's blooming' gorgeous, well done. This is probably the most temptation I've had to delve into fictional modelling, I really, really want one! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Otis JB said: Gosh that's blooming' gorgeous, well done. This is probably the most temptation I've had to delve into fictional modelling, I really, really want one! Thanks! Freelance modelling is certainly worth a go, especially on a relatively cheap model like this. It's also helped me build confidence with my modelling, as mistakes are a lot easier to hide when no-one knows what it's supposed to look like! Having said that, I find the most believable freelance models are fairly similar to real locos with minimal changes. I remember a piece of writing advice (though unfortunately cannot remember the source) for fantasy and sci-fi writers that said to keep things immersive/believable "you can break one or two rule(s) (of physics), but everything else in your universe should remain consistent". Hence most of my freelance locos being developments or earlier prototypes of real-world locos. That Pugbash, for example, being my idea of what an earlier 1880s prototype of the Pug might have looked like. Of course, the beauty of Rule One is that you could alternatively ignore all of my pontificating and enjoy building whatever you like! Edited January 25, 2021 by TurboSnail 4 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain Goat Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 On 16/01/2021 at 16:51, Sophia NSE said: Found this on the bottom of a knackered Airfix 14xx, so liberated it and soldered a pair of wires to it Also felt that my not Nellie needed a different look What material did you solder the wires to? It should be a piece of printed circuit board (PCB) as the copper side which one solders onto can be gently cut or filed on just the top copper surface, so that the two pickup sides can be isolated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain Goat Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 (edited) What I love about this thread is that everyone is making progress building their unique creations to their own abilities and styles, and having fun and learning at the same time! Edited January 25, 2021 by Mountain Goat 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 9 hours ago, Mountain Goat said: What material did you solder the wires to? It should be a piece of printed circuit board (PCB) as the copper side which one solders onto can be gently cut or filed on just the top copper surface, so that the two pickup sides can be isolated. It was the copper side of some PCB that had already been isolated Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted January 29, 2021 Share Posted January 29, 2021 An edit of a mod I would like to do when I have the tools. I will definitely make sure that the front isn't so far cut down, I'll probably do it just to where it startst to flatten out Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CinderMonkey Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) 12 hours ago, tubs01 said: An edit of a mod I would like to do when I have the tools. I will definitely make sure that the front isn't so far cut down, I'll probably do it just to where it startst to flatten out I like the straight frames and stockier profile, but yeah I'd agree the footplate needs to be longer. Usually rule of thumb is to make sure that someone can stand on the front to clean out the smoke box without the use of a plank (unless you're Bullied, then do what you want). I'd also encourage you to mess with some of the other dimensions to suit, cutting out those fake splashers may help (although that may reveal too much motor). Edited January 30, 2021 by CinderMonkey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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