Black Notley - BR Eastern

[pwr]

Ok here is a still shot of the 50 on the latest MK1 to arrive and my first blue/grey coach that is ready for service. I see have the unfinished SK and of course the BG is now going down the production line. Once painted I expect t to line both he SK and the BG at the same time. I have lining in stock.

 

 

The 50 looks very  naked without names and numbers so I have ordered some up and nameplates for Temeraire which is the first large logo 50 I ever saw which was at the head of a service train standing at the buffers at Paddington. I remember being impressed at the time.

 

Paul R

 

 

 

 

Edited April 1, 2022 by pwr

[pwr]

Not much to report today - slow progress continues to be made on the BG hinges. I've got one side done and moving down the second. I started to file some down as a test but will probably do that in a mini drill. Incidentally I looked again at my Easybuild SK and Shaun uses the same method but his etchings are done for the three different hinges whereas the ones I am using need to be filed depending on location. 

 

Got some buffers from Invertrain which are a whole lot better than the castings supplied in the kit. They look as if they are 3D printed.

 

 

Not sure whether to fit them or not. Most Mk1's had the buffers set in the retracted mode when running in sets but of course this BG is designed to run on the layout as a loose vehicle so I am not sure. On balance I think they will improve the model so will probably fit them.

 

Paul R

Edited April 1, 2022 by pwr

[brossard]

Those buffers look good.  The last buffers I got from Invertrain were whitemetal so we're moving into the 21st century it seems.

 

Seems a no brainer to me to fit these to the BG.  As you note, if the coach is to be coupled to non buckeye stock, the buffers would be functional.

 

John

[pwr]

3 minutes ago, brossard said:

Those buffers look good.  The last buffers I got from Invertrain were whitemetal so we're moving into the 21st century it seems.

 

Seems a no brainer to me to fit these to the BG.  As you note, if the coach is to be coupled to non buckeye stock, the buffers would be functional.

 

John

 

You've persuaded me John!

 

Paul R

[pwr]

For todays offering I give you a very cruel enlargement of the bump stops taken through a magnifying lens. I have finished fixing the hinges and these need to be reinforced with epoxy before being trimmed inside and nailed outside.

 

I am beginning to wish I had not started on bump stops as they are simply too small. I've lost one and won't now have enough for the whole coach. They are not easy to fit either. Half a mind to fill the holes and forget about them but I have started so I will finish.

 

Whilst looking at the spares from my EasyBuild SK I found a whole spare supply of door hinges with the hinges being of different lengths. I could have used them! Dang!

 

 

I will be using filler/primer when I spray this to deal with the scratches and overfilling. I did this before on a Bullied tender and it works a treat.

 

Paul R

Edited April 1, 2022 by pwr

[Hal Nail]

17 hours ago, pwr said:

For todays offering I give you a very cruel enlargement of the bump stops taken through a magnifying lens. I have finished fixing the hinges and these need to be reinforced with epoxy before being trimmed inside and nailed outside.

 

I am beginning to wish I had not started on bump stops as they are simply too small. I've lost one and won't now have enough for the whole coach. They are not easy to fit either. Half a mind to fill the holes and forget about them but I have started so I will finish.

 

Whilst looking at the spares from my EasyBuild SK I found a whole spare supply of door hinges with the hinges being of different lengths. I could have used them! Dang!

 

 

I will be using filler/primer when I spray this to deal with the scratches and overfilling. I did this before on a Bullied tender and it works a treat.

 

Paul R

I added door stops to a tower brass B set. On one side I used CPL etched surrounds with micro rod buffers, which are very good but fiddly and quite hard to do neatly, on the other I just used a little sliver of rod dipped in super glue and put in place. Obviously these dont stand close inspection but are better than nothing - I think you need some representation as the sides look bare with nothing.

[pwr]

55 minutes ago, Hal Nail said:

I added door stops to a tower brass B set. On one side I used CPL etched surrounds with micro rod buffers, which are very good but fiddly and quite hard to do neatly, on the other I just used a little sliver of rod dipped in super glue and put in place. Obviously these dont stand close inspection but are better than nothing - I think you need some representation as the sides look bare with nothing.

 

These are etched surrounds and as you say I am using a rod. in this case brass, as the bump. In retrospect I should have used cast ones which are also available although I can't remember from whom. What put me off was the £12 cost for a set which here wouldn't have been enough.

 

Paul R

[pwr]

So I have taken a break from the door bumps although I have been putting epoxy filler behind the door hinges to strengthen the bond. I'll clean them up and file them down before proceeding much further. The bottom ones are more problematic has they push the pin right where the underframe slots in! 

 

Meanwhile I have gone back to the underframe to try and construct the framework to replace the poor castings. I may be able to salvage the smaller end ones bit the middle three are beyond help!.  So I have now replaced the angle iron I took out on the centre to fit the casting and also fitted some strips from scrap etch aqs a base to raise the height to the same as the main angled girders. 

 

 

Try as I might I cannot get the angle iron to fold when I cut a V shape in it - the metal simply snaps. I have therefore ahdf to resort to Resistance Soldering them on  as per the photo below. Its a quick in and out with high heat but I have got the first two uprights in place.

 

 

Sorry about the poor picture. They need a full and final clean up. I think I may get to the stage on the outer two and then seek to fix the next pieces of main beams before putting the angles pieces in. This should at least give some strength to the assembly. 

 

I feel I am fighting with this one all the way! Hopefully it will come out OK in the end

 

In other news I now have transfers and nameplates for the 50 so will look to fit those soon.

 

Paul R

Edited April 1, 2022 by pwr

[pwr]

Bit more progress today in that I have found a way to use the smaller underframe castings.

 

 

 

I have essentially cut the middle sections out and filed them to fit. The one on the left in the picture above has had a tweak as it was out of alignment.

 

Thinking about it I could have done this with the larger ones and saved myself a bucket load of trouble. However I am half way there as the horizontals are now in place ready for the verticals. The only downside is that I shall probably have to glue the remaining angle iron although it might be possible to low melt solder by tinning the brass first. I report back on this as it progresses. No further work on the body!

 

Paul R

 

Edited April 1, 2022 by pwr

[brossard]

We teach ourselves valuable lessons every day by making boo boos.  I tend to use CA when fitting white metal parts.  It is really quite strong.  I have built several (old) wagon kits by sticking external detail to the brass sides with CA.  As long as the parts aren't under stress, CA is fine.

 

My mantra is: "if a parts comes off, it wasn't stuck on properly to begin with".

 

John

[pwr]

I think its horses for courses. I always prefer to solder - even whitemetal but CA has its uses if as you say the parts are not under stress, I always found CA to have no sheer strength. 

 

I am making use of a lot of metal epoxy on this job since I can't solder aluminium!  Thats the only downside of Westdale kits. On the upside it does take paint very well provided you prime it well. I will be using a putty filler/primer as this will deal with all he scratch marks on the sides. I built a 4mm class 309 unit from MTK about 30 years ago and I got a really great finish on it. I still have it but I never completed the layout on which to run it before I changed to 7mm.

 

Paul R

[brossard]

I also have a concern about CA and its shear strength.  Whenever I use it, I try to pin the joint.  Simply drilling for 0.9mm wire and soldering that to the brass.  Drill the whitemetal part and then use CA to fix everything.

 

John

[pwr]

Good tip that John

 

Paul R

 

 

[pwr]

Bit more work this afternoon and started to fit the next pieces of brass angle to the under fame. The angle at which it hits the floor is all off but it matches the diagram I have. I am going to use a piece of strip under the bogies which will provide a deeper set of beams to mount the bogies which sit lower than the MK1 or commonwealth as the wheels are smaller. This is actually working out better than I expected if a bit more convoluted.

 

All will become clear as the build progresses.

 

 

 

The joints are looking a bit messy and clogged up but I shall be able to clean that up with a mini drill and appropriate tools. I don't really want to immerse it in water which would be the usual process given the wooden floor. 

 

All for now

 

Paul R

Edited April 1, 2022 by pwr

[pwr]

Bit more progress on the under frames with the bogie mounts and bogies fitted on a trial basis

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see from the photo the ride height is about 3mm too high but I can adjust this by removing some of the white metal on the bolster although I will also need to file out part of the end stretchers or they will foul then underframe trussing. In real life this would not have been an issue but because we have to move round tighter curves this could be an issue.

 

I'll tackle that next before I complete the underframe trussing in case I have to alter that too.

 

Progress defiantly being made. It almost feels like I am scratchbuidling this as its not supposed to go together that way according to the instructions and of course there is no mention of bogie mounting in the kit!. 

 

I don't think I am going to rush to  build the BCK I have!

 

Paul R

 

 

Edited April 1, 2022 by pwr

[brossard]

I like that you are defiantly making progress.  Some kits are little more than an aid to the scratchbuilder.  These are all the more satisfying when done.

 

John

[Hal Nail]

When you run your different era locos, do you have totally separate stock? 

 

I mostly model late 50s but have a couple of blue diesels and decided to just use early bauxite wagons as I already have far too much stuff.

 

Just seen on the Blackney thread about numbering wagons differently each side. Rather odd this simple solution has never occured to me as I have loads of unused transfers and I do have coaches in different steam era liveries on either side! 

Edited August 9, 2021 by Hal Nail

[pwr]

Morning Hal

 

Yes that is the intention. I am collecting stock from different eras so I can effectively move from 1950's through to late 70's/early 80's. My problem has been shortage of coaching stock effectively having only built a Thompson Brake 3rd suburban coach. I now have a Carmine and Cream Gresley BCK and a Mk 1 BSK so things are improving on that front. I have far too many blue diesels and not enough steam but I have kits stashed away to rectify that! 

 

In have also developed an unhealthy interest in research department stock!  The BG I am working on now in addition to being part of the parcels will also double up fr the APT POP train for which I have the blue class 17 as haulage and Paul Leadley will be producing an O 3D print of the two POP vehicles once he has drawn up the SA bogies. Then its on to the APT-E itself!  I could go on but I won't! Too much to do and not enough time to do it!

 

Paul R

[pwr]

Not much to report today but I have corrected the ride height of the BG by filing down the central bolsters and adjusting the end frames of the bogies to permit greater swing. I now realise why the prototypes were built as they were. Some detail needs to be put back where the file and saw have removed metal but that's no big deal. No photos as yet.

 

Incidentally I matched it both to a Heljan 50, a Dapol 08 and a Hattons Gresley BCK and its same height but when you match to a Dapol MK 1 the Mk1 buffers are marginally higher. I had to correct the underframe for feel also but I've done that through the bogie mounts and I am happy with where we are so I can proceed with the underframe detailing now starting with the battery boxes after the remaining cross beam angles are fitted.

 

In other news a 31/4 has joined the fleet but no pictures yet and according to Tower the new 40's will be out next week so. bit expensive right now.

 

Paul R

[pwr]

More progress today and nearly completed the underframe trussing.

 

 

The angle pieces are fitted initially with superglue but I will strengthen the joints later with low melt solder so the cross pieces don't fall off when being soldered.

 

I feel like I am winning here. Still some cleaning up to do but I have almost finished with the trussing and can start to fit the other underframe detailing.

 

Still to work out what additional pieces I will need for a dual braked vehicle but should find what I need in the Parkin books. 

 

I am quite pleased ow this is working out albeit there is more scratch building than I had anticipated. It would be so much better if this had a brass or aluminium floor. 

 

Paul R

Edited April 1, 2022 by pwr

[Mol_PMB]

I admire your persistence and it’s looking good now. 

 

I often get frustrated with kits that comprise many different materials. 

For me, they should ideally be 95% solderable metal, or 95% plastic that is amenable to solvent. OK to have a few details in other materials that need superglue or epoxy, but it’s not ideal in the main structure. 

 

Having said that, some kits go too far the other way and require lots of laminations of an etch when a casting would be better, or in some cases use a casting for a component that would be finer and stronger in etched brass. 

 

Maybe I’m just too fussy! 

Mol

[pwr]

2 hours ago, Mol_PMB said:

I admire your persistence and it’s looking good now. 

 

I often get frustrated with kits that comprise many different materials. 

For me, they should ideally be 95% solderable metal, or 95% plastic that is amenable to solvent. OK to have a few details in other materials that need superglue or epoxy, but it’s not ideal in the main structure. 

 

Having said that, some kits go too far the other way and require lots of laminations of an etch when a casting would be better, or in some cases use a casting for a component that would be finer and stronger in etched brass. 

 

Maybe I’m just too fussy! 

Mol

 

 

No I think you are right. If nothing else these kits challenge your brain and require you to seek engineering solutions. I have got some of the old RJH coaches to build which are all etched including another BG. Hopefully most of the work will be via solder although I appreciate there are some modellers who find this a black art and won't have anything to do with it.

 

Paul R

[brossard]

1 minute ago, pwr said:

 

 

No I think you are right. If nothing else these kits challenge your brain and require you to seek engineering solutions. I have got some of the old RJH coaches to build which are all etched including another BG. Hopefully most of the work will be via solder although I appreciate there are some modellers who find this a black art and won't have anything to do with it.

 

Paul R

 

If you are building in metal, solder is the way.  Soldering is not difficult and the key is to have the right materials and equipment.  Will you burn your fingers?  Absolutely, deal with it.

 

Yes, older kits do challenge you to come up with ways to complete them to produce an acceptable model, even if you do throw away a lot of the bits.  I look at it as we are building a model of a particular wagon/coach, not necessarily building the kit.

 

John

[pwr]

Bit more of an update today. I have all the underframe trussing now done and soldered.

 

 

with that in mind I have now fitted the battery boxes although there seems to be some variance in where they were fitted. Most BG's I have seen in photos have the box towards the right hand end viewed side on although here are some that appear to have them fixed to the left hand end.

 

I am. following the pictures and the plans I have in the Parkin book and they are going to the RH end.

 

Also got the 31/4 out and placed on the boards.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All I can say is that this is either a new body or the 31/1 has bee retooled as the doors are modelled riveted up and the head codes have been filled and replaced with marker lights.

This makes a pleasant change from the other 31's I have accumulated over the years and allows me to model the later period of the BR blue era.

 

I think now I have the trussing sorted the detailing of the underframe should progress quite quickly

 

Paul R

 

Edited April 1, 2022 by pwr

[pwr]

Not managed much over the weekend but have now started to apply the vacuum brake gear. Looking at reference photos its clear there was no standard mounting arrangement. Easily batches had symmetrical V hangers and later batches asymmetrical. The vac cylinders are also mounted differently dependent on builder. I've gone for one that looks like the prototype I am building - or at least I hope I have!.

 

These are mounted using a combination of low melt solder, epoxy and CA.

 

 

The added white metal parts will mean I shall not have to weight the vehicle - its feeling as if this is going to be a weighty model already!!!

 

All for now but hopefully some new class 40 pix tomorrow if DPD turn up as promised.

 

Paul R

Edited April 1, 2022 by pwr