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AdeMoore

Wantage Tramway No.5 "Jane" or 'Shannon' from the Sandy & Potton Tramway (1850).

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I'll have a look in the parts bin, I might have a slidebar and crosshead set that might work for you.

 

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41 minutes ago, chris p bacon said:

I'll have a look in the parts bin, I might have a slidebar and crosshead set that might work for you.

 

Dave most kind, though I’ve not given up yet!

 Cheers 

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Hi Ade

You have my sympathy! It’s really frustrating at times.

 

A couple of suggestions that might help ( in addition to the meds)

 

If the solder is beading then it’s almost certain that something is dirty. So clean everything.

I use a wood block for soldering on and some small parts do get carbon on them! I have had a recommendation to use Tufnol instead of wood....although I haven’t bothered yet! Not even sure where I’d get any.

 

The other suggestion is to use a steel pin - much more difficult to solder up (I use steel bolts when soldering retaining nuts). Other people suggest oil on the brass pin to stop the solder adhesion - I’d worry that I’d contaminate everything with oil - then back to meds!

 

Good luck

 

Jon

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10 hours ago, Jon4470 said:

Hi Ade

You have my sympathy! It’s really frustrating at times.

 

A couple of suggestions that might help ( in addition to the meds)

 

If the solder is beading then it’s almost certain that something is dirty. So clean everything.

I use a wood block for soldering on and some small parts do get carbon on them! I have had a recommendation to use Tufnol instead of wood....although I haven’t bothered yet! Not even sure where I’d get any.

 

The other suggestion is to use a steel pin - much more difficult to solder up (I use steel bolts when soldering retaining nuts). Other people suggest oil on the brass pin to stop the solder adhesion - I’d worry that I’d contaminate everything with oil - then back to meds!

 

Good luck

 

Jon

Cheers Jon much appreciated. Dirty definitely from the carbon from the reheat, so a split of the laminated pieces is called for with some heat again and a major clean up.

Now I have formulated a plan for a jig using two coffee stirrers and drilling holes for dress making pins to go through for the part to rest on, edge on. So I’ll be attempting to solder with the laminations looking at me and a bulldog clip doing the holding. Here’s hoping.

 Cheers 

Ade.

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This is a hooray post!

so made the jig it worked, lined with silver foil that was the hardest bit.

 

AE629D68-4102-4955-97EE-3ED6CF1F216C.jpeg.04cbe80b2d7ddd40cdaf1c75b1c63f48.jpeg

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Clamped in the vice every piece lovingly cleaned even with the glass fibre pen that really does make a difference.

Then lashings of flux for the capillary action to work.

 

F60BA5A6-905A-4020-93D4-210988DA1398.jpeg.402d774cd350b99ed12288512ac4d036.jpeg

 

In with a really hot iron and hold it there as Dave suggested, was 400 deg on the dial but I think this £20 iron could be 200 deg out! Kept it there until the wood started smelling then in with the 145 deg solder.

Spot the deliberate mistake?

Yes I left the connecting rod pin in!

Put back the 2 pins I had taken out and back in the vice, more flux grabbed the pin with pliers in with the iron and pulled her out.

 

DA2612B3-8F27-48CE-9A28-02B4A5178C77.jpeg.d359b7fc50eb8a3c96726b13b6d78b3a.jpeg

 

Upset the alignment a little.

 

3C2F3E1F-4A40-49AE-93E5-74BDB6B5760B.jpeg.a6e9bebf95bb7fc170ebf8c463849191.jpeg

 

so coffee stirrers vertical in the vice to hold the rod heat and tweezers I had that sorted!

chuffed with that.

 

56EA2C8D-99E7-4246-86EA-F7D7192080EB.jpeg.d0cb6c3166585c84d50ad61eb375c3ca.jpeg

 

Fetle it up next.

Then one more to do and I’ll be making progress.

Until next time.

 Cheers.

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Dare I say going well now.

Brain hurts though, just about to go in with the iron on the 2nd set when I noticed the connecting rod pin still in! Got it out and soldered her up.

Then out with the files and fettled her up and managed to fit the connecting rod with a dress makers pin as per Daves build, needs some more filing yet but pleased with it.

Feels like I’m getting somewhere at last.

 

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until next time

Cheers

 

 

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Give it time and you'll be sticking those pins in an effigy of me...:D

 

Looking good....but remember...this hobby is supposed to be fun..

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Dave I’m loving it, making actual stuff from bits how satisfying is that.

challenging yourself and succeeding is immensely satisfying.

Just 1 can of Diet Coke was needed for that post! And that was only because I have man flu!

No effigies here, got a feeling I wouldn’t be still building this without you and your support and kindness.

 Cheers 

Ade

 

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Moving on.

Both crossheads done.

Time to mount on the front of the cylinders. But first as I envisage 70 deg solder for the cover plate, valve guide  and slide bars all in one hit, I needed to cut and fit the cylinder wrappers.

First the cylinder assembly needed a fettle to fit the wrapper between the front and rear plates.

One wrapper fitted rear for solder and taking stock it’s great to do something other than the motion! 

Question would you solder the slide bars etc. To the rear of the assembly in one hit with 70deg? The wrappers etc are/will be done with 145deg.

Progress pics.

 

 

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Were getting there, one year in wow! 

Did think perhaps I ought to be finished by now, but I’ve not really invested a huge amount of time into it.

My health was very poor at the beginning.

I’ll keep plodding on and see how the next year goes with it.

Until next time

Cheers.

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I've soldered everything with 145, it does mean you have to 'in and out' sharpish so as not to melt previous work.......the swearbox is rather full as well...

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58 minutes ago, chris p bacon said:

I've soldered everything with 145, it does mean you have to 'in and out' sharpish so as not to melt previous work.......the swearbox is rather full as well...

Cheers for the info Dave, that’s my concern melting what I have previously done.

But I think a heat sink close by could do the trick or be super quick like you with a swear box!

 Thanks.

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