Coulsdon Works

[thegreenhowards]

While I’ve been dithering over lining issues, I’ve managed to finish off the D194/5 twin steel artic.

 

The underframe is a mix of Hornby and MJT And I’ve had to guess some bits as it wasn’t all clear on the photos I had, but I think it looks fairly convincing - cue Andrew teling me I’ve made some horrendous error!

 

 

I now have a complete five set as I made another of these a few years ago. The centre coach was originally a steel D.190 short 52’6” compo, but this was replaced in the early fifties by either a Thompson or Mk 1 CK. I use a Thompson version as I think it blends in better. I also have a D.190 to build to complete the rake in early fifties look. Here is a view of the rake lead by a 50ft Stanier BG. This is as seen in ‘On Great Northen Lines’ by Huntriss hauled by 60014 (about 1/4 of the way through the book).

 

 

Andy

Edited September 19, 2020 by thegreenhowards
Adding final photo

[Jon4470]

Andy

 

The pen in my photo operates like a compass. A piece of brass wire replaces the point and the bow pen replaces the pencil/lead. By opening out the arms, and using the brass wire to follow an edge, the bow pen is kept at a constant distance from the edge.

 

 

Does the bow pen that you have borrowed work ok for your friend?

If so, then the pen is not the problem.

Next likely issue is the consistency of the paint. It should be like thick cream and the test is....stir with a cocktail stick and remove - the paint should run down but not off the stick. If it doesn’t Run down it is too thick, if it pours straight off it is too thin. Try with a brand new tin ( well stirred) of enamel paint.

When you use the pen keep it nearly vertical to the item you are lining (not at 45degrees .... not like a pen)

 

Try to find a copy of Right Track 3 which had Ian Rathbone demonstrate lining.

 

Jon

 

PS. I speak as someone who can line....sometimes I.e. when I listen to my own advice and take my time I do not find it easy and I am certainly not always happy with the results.....need to practice more!

 

 

Edited September 19, 2020 by Jon4470
To correct the edition if Right Track

[Headstock]

1 hour ago, thegreenhowards said:

 

The underframe is a mix of Hornby and MJT And I’ve had to guess some bits as it wasn’t all clear on the photos I had, but I think it looks fairly convincing - cue Andrew teling me I’ve made some horrendous error!

 

 

You rang?

 

Wat horrendous teling telling error?

 

Is fairly convincing like fairly dead?

[thegreenhowards]

My next project has been in the roundtuit pile for almost 4 years since I picked up the kit from Graeme King at Warley 2016. It’s one of his resin conversion kits for an A2/3 and I thought I’d better get it finished before Hornby deliver their model! After a couple of man days work spread over the last week, here is the state of play.

 

 

It went together fairly easily, although it takes some courage when first sawing up the Bachmann chassis - the point of no return! Graeme’s instructions are fantastic and guide you through the job steadily. The valve gear was a bit of a pig and I did mange to snap the Bachmann eccentric crank While countersinking it to take a pin head. Luckily the A1 version is identical and I have a ‘Christmas tree‘ Bachmann A1 which I raid for parts.

 

All the tricky bits are now complete and she runs well. I took her down too the club last night and she negotiated the tight 24” curves with no complaint. There’s still quite a bit of cosmetic work to do on pipes, the smokebox door, deflectors, chimney etc. And then the joy of trying to match the Bachmann paint Job!

 

Andy

 

Edited September 25, 2020 by thegreenhowards
Correcting random iPad capital letters

[thegreenhowards]

My next project is an Isinglass GNR d.310 Milk Brake.

 

 

it’s gone together very easily and, in my opinion, looks nice and crisp. The one weakness with the kit which I can see is the attachment of the ends to the sides. On the kit the ends overlap the sides whereas it should be the other way round. Andy at Isinglass tells me this is a feature Of 3D printing caused by the need to create a robust end but he recognises the issue and is working on a solution.

 

The underframe is a mix of Isinglass battery boxes and bogies with MJT for everything else. Buffers have been ordered from LMS (ref: BC01).

 

My intention is to paint it in teak livery with early BR markings. Do people think I can get away with teak on this vehicle or would it have been carriage brown by the late ‘40s?

 

Andy

 

[jwealleans]

When were these converted to electrical lighting, Andy?

[John Tomlinson]

1 hour ago, thegreenhowards said:

My next project is an Isinglass GNR d.310 Milk Brake.

 

 

it’s gone together very easily and, in my opinion, looks nice and crisp. The one weakness with the kit which I can see is the attachment of the ends to the sides. On the kit the ends overlap the sides whereas it should be the other way round. Andy at Isinglass tells me this is a feature Of 3D printing caused by the need to create a robust end but he recognises the issue and is working on a solution.

 

The underframe is a mix of Isinglass battery boxes and bogies with MJT for everything else. Buffers have been ordered from LMS (ref: BC01).

 

My intention is to paint it in teak livery with early BR markings. Do people think I can get away with teak on this vehicle or would it have been carriage brown by the late ‘40s?

 

Andy

 

I wonder if you've already glued the ends to the sides?

 

If not there appears to be enough length to file the sides of the ends down so they sit inside the sides. Or maybe I'm missing something.

 

Probably won't really notice anyway when painted some dark grot colour!

 

John.

[thegreenhowards]

9 hours ago, jwealleans said:

When were these converted to electrical lighting, Andy?

Good question Jonathan! I’ve been using the Steve Banks article from Model Rail, June 2005 for most of my information, this suggests that some of the 1922 batch were built with electric Lighting and the gas examples were converted ‘sometime during LNER days’. The Isinglass drawing suggests batteries both sides, but photos and Steve Banks both make it clear that they were one side only.

 

Andy  

[thegreenhowards]

7 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

I wonder if you've already glued the ends to the sides?

 

If not there appears to be enough length to file the sides of the ends down so they sit inside the sides. Or maybe I'm missing something.

 

Probably won't really notice anyway when painted some dark grot colour!

 

John.

I have glued to sides in. I did consider doing as you suggest and discussed that with Andy Edgson at Isinglass but he convinced me that it needed to be this way round for structural integrity. Doing as you suggest would mean scraping away the bars which line things up on the inside.and I’d either have to file a lot of the side or end up with an over wide vehicle. 
 

I see that they do look rather poorly fitting on the photo. Hopefully this will be less evident after painting.

 

andy

 

 

 

[micklner]

Could the corners be made @ 45 degrees , it looks so wrong at the moment . Does the Roof fit it looks too short as well due to the ends stickingout too far  ?. I have seen photos of  the Isinglass Pigeon van they do not have the same corner design.

 

The isinglass model does'nt have the problem either?

 

https://www.isinglass-models.co.uk/

[thegreenhowards]

12 minutes ago, micklner said:

Could the corners be made @ 45 degrees , it looks so wrong at the moment . Does the Roof fit it looks too short as well due to the ends stickingout too far  ?. I have seen photos of  the Isinglass Pigeon van they do not have the same corner design.

 

The isinglass model does'nt have the problem either?

 

https://www.isinglass-models.co.uk/

The model on the link has the same issue of the ends being outside the sides but they have made a neater job of it! The roof fit looks better. I did get a replacement roof from Isinglass but it’s only marginally longer than the original. I’ve suggested to Andy that his roof needs to be longer. I may cut a section from the original roof and insert it in the middle.

 

 

[John Tomlinson]

1 hour ago, thegreenhowards said:

The model on the link has the same issue of the ends being outside the sides but they have made a neater job of it! The roof fit looks better. I did get a replacement roof from Isinglass but it’s only marginally longer than the original. I’ve suggested to Andy that his roof needs to be longer. I may cut a section from the original roof and insert it in the middle.

 

 

Andy, I suspect any improvement in appearance is simply due to it being painted, and I think when yours is dark brown the impact will far less.

 

John.

 

P.S. meant to mention I see that he's added door hinges to the print, a nice touch.

Edited September 29, 2020 by John Tomlinson
added P.S.

[micklner]

5 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

The model on the link has the same issue of the ends being outside the sides but they have made a neater job of it! The roof fit looks better. I did get a replacement roof from Isinglass but it’s only marginally longer than the original. I’ve suggested to Andy that his roof needs to be longer. I may cut a section from the original roof and insert it in the middle.

 

 

I have just enlarged the link I posted  earlier.

 

I see what you mean re the ends . That model ends, look at least half the thickness of your end pieces. Are the ends that fragile that you could'nt file them thinner or is too late ? I dont think I will be buying any of his kits , not until the designs improve.

 

I have some of his Fox Bogies which were good for the price. Sadly nowhere near the quality of the dearer  MJT Fox etched /whitemetal version .

Edited September 29, 2020 by micklner

[Headstock]

4 hours ago, micklner said:

 I dont think I will be buying any of his kits , not until the designs improve.

 

Evening Mick,

 

I quite agree. A shame really, the choices for LNER carriage modelers are ever shrinking, now the likes of the Mousa brass kits and bits have gone. Isinglass could really fill a niche well, but are rather disappointingly 'sub Kirk' at the moment. They need someone like Mike Trice advising them. They have the drawings and the technology but seem to not know that much about LNER or constituent company carriage stock. There are many problems with the GN brake featured above, the external door hinges on the guards door is just one example, that someone like Mike would pick up on straight away.

 

 

Edited September 29, 2020 by Headstock

[thegreenhowards]

6 hours ago, micklner said:

I see what you mean re the ends . That model ends, look at least half the thickness of your end pieces. Are the ends that fragile that you could'nt file them thinner or is too late ? I dont think I will be buying any of his kits , not until the designs improve.

 

I have some of his Fox Bogies which were good for the price. Sadly nowhere near the quality of the dearer  MJT Fox etched /whitemetal version .

 

2 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Evening Mick,

 

I quite agree. A shame really, the choices for LNER carriage modelers are ever shrinking, now the likes of the Mousa brass kits and bits have gone. Isinglass could really fill a niche well, but are rather disappointingly 'sub Kirk' at the moment. They need someone like Mike Trice advising them. They have the drawings and the technology but seem to not know that much about LNER or constituent company carriage stock. There are many problems with the GN brake featured above, the external door hinges on the guards door is just one example, that someone like Mike would pick up on straight away.

 

 

Gents,

 

I think that you’re taking a ‘glass half empty’ attitude to this. I think what Andy is doing is the best chance we have of some decent GNR/ LNER Kits and he needs encouragement and support. They are very nearly there and the quality and crispness of the prints is now very good. As John pointed out he now even includes the hinges. 
 

I have talked to him at some length about the side and roof issues and he is working on a solution. Also, it should be said that, in my normal impatient style, I was probably rather rushing to get something up and running rather than thinking through how best to approach those corner joints. The model on the Isinglass website is certainly neater than mine, but I’ve spent some time with filler today, and with some filing down, I think it can be made presentable (although certainly with room for improvement!). Painting will also help disguise any remaining issues as John has kindly said.
 

I really think that with some constructive criticism we could have some very good kits here and the potential range is vast. The advantage of the 3D printing approach is that the upfront costs are modest and small production runs of some pretty esoteric vehicles could be viable.

 

Andy

 

 

[davidw]

On 25/09/2020 at 10:46, thegreenhowards said:

My next project has been in the roundtuit pile for almost 4 years since I picked up the kit from Graeme King at Warley 2016. It’s one of his resin conversion kits for an A2/3 and I thought I’d better get it finished before Hornby deliver their model! After a couple of man days work spread over the last week, here is the state of play.

 

 

It went together fairly easily, although it takes some courage when first sawing up the Bachmann chassis - the point of no return! Graeme’s instructions are fantastic and guide you through the job steadily. The valve gear was a bit of a pig and I did mange to snap the Bachmann eccentric crank While countersinking it to take a pin head. Luckily the A1 version is identical and I have a ‘Christmas tree‘ Bachmann A1 which I raid for parts.

 

All the tricky bits are now complete and she runs well. I took her down too the club last night and she negotiated the tight 24” curves with no complaint. There’s still quite a bit of cosmetic work to do on pipes, the smokebox door, deflectors, chimney etc. And then the joy of trying to match the Bachmann paint Job!

 

Andy

 

Which one will it be?

[micklner]

Half empty attitude, sorry no..

 

The problem is he appears to be rushing models out to production. Any kit needs proper test builds and correcting any faults found. That is when the kits should be sold . When he improves the kits,  I will then happily buy some.

 

Sadly there is something wrong with your kit assembly.  On further looking at the photos,  both the chassis and the roof , appear to be shorter than the body.

 

As Headstock said earlier , he needs better research/designs and perhaps assistance with the designs, before then making and selling the kits.

 

 

[Headstock]

52 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

 

Gents,

 

I think that you’re taking a ‘glass half empty’ attitude to this. I think what Andy is doing is the best chance we have of some decent GNR/ LNER Kits and he needs encouragement and support. They are very nearly there and the quality and crispness of the prints is now very good. As John pointed out he now even includes the hinges. 
 

I have talked to him at some length about the side and roof issues and he is working on a solution. Also, it should be said that, in my normal impatient style, I was probably rather rushing to get something up and running rather than thinking through how best to approach those corner joints. The model on the Isinglass website is certainly neater than mine, but I’ve spent some time with filler today, and with some filing down, I think it can be made presentable (although certainly with room for improvement!). Painting will also help disguise any remaining issues as John has kindly said.
 

I really think that with some constructive criticism we could have some very good kits here and the potential range is vast. The advantage of the 3D printing approach is that the upfront costs are modest and small production runs of some pretty esoteric vehicles could be viable.

 

Andy

 

 

 

Good evening Andy,

 

Which is why Isinglass could do with the support of somebody more knowledgeable on these matters, such as Mike Trice. In the meantime, you are doing a great job supporting the range with your money, so that, hopefully, Mick and I can reap the benefits.

 

[thegreenhowards]

1 minute ago, Headstock said:

 

Good evening Andy,

 

Which is why Isinglass could do with the support of somebody more knowledgeable on these matters, such as Mike Trice. In the meantime, you are doing a great job supporting the range with your money, so that, hopefully, Mick and I can reap the benefits.

 

Happy to be of service!

 

 

[thegreenhowards]

deleted duplicate post.

 

Edited September 29, 2020 by thegreenhowards

[Headstock]

8 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Happy to be of service!

 

 

 

P.S.

 

I don't think there is anything wrong with the roof, in fact the roof is the best bit (except the rainstrip). However, the body overhangs the headstocks! That looks like the source of the problem.

 

 

Edited September 29, 2020 by Headstock

[thegreenhowards]

30 minutes ago, davidw said:

Which one will it be?

60523, Sun Castle. Sadly this is one of the ones Hornby plan to do but I’d already bought the plates.

[thegreenhowards]

3 minutes ago, Headstock said:

 

P.S.

 

I don't think there is anything wrong with the roof, in fact the roof is the best bit. However, the body overhangs the headstocks! That looks like the source of the problem.

 

 

I’m really wishing that I’d filed the ends down and fitted them inside the sides. That would have solved both problems. It would have been a weak joint but could have been strengthened from the inside. Sadly they seem to be too firmly glued now.

[Headstock]

5 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

I’m really wishing that I’d filed the ends down and fitted them inside the sides. That would have solved both problems. It would have been a weak joint but could have been strengthened from the inside. Sadly they seem to be too firmly glued now.

 

What sort of glue have you used?

Edited September 29, 2020 by Headstock
glue not gue

[thegreenhowards]

2 minutes ago, Headstock said:

 

What sort of gue have you used?

Gorilla Superglue.