Dapol Kitmaster Wagon Kits - coupling

[Il Grifone]

Ah those wheels!

Apart from the near impossibility of getting the axle straight, the wheel profile is dreadful. Straight to the bin or the black plastic filler bottle.

 

There used to be a box of 24 of those couplings. At 2/-, it would have been a bargain had the couplings been any use. I still have a box somewhere....

[cctransuk]

30 minutes ago, Il Grifone said:

Ah those wheels!

Apart from the near impossibility of getting the axle straight, the wheel profile is dreadful. Straight to the bin or the black plastic filler bottle.

 

There used to be a box of 24 of those couplings. At 2/-, it would have been a bargain had the couplings been any use. I still have a box somewhere....

 

The profile was certainly dire, but the axles could be assembled dead straight by using a sleeve of aluminium tube - handily available in the metals rack in the model shop.

 

I certainly managed to run Airfix kit wheels on Hornby Dublo 3-rail track.

 

In my more impecunious days, I developed a batch process whereby plastic Ratio kit wheels were cut from their axles, reprofiled and drilled, and mounted on new pinpoint axles obtained cheaply from Alan Gibson. They ran extremely well, except for attracting rail muck.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[PatB]

Got to be careful fixing lead into place with PVA, lest they react and cause your models to explode in slow motion as the resulting compounds expand. Sort of DIY mazak rot. 

[Il Grifone]

I no longer glue lead weights into place, having had averse reactions in the past. I make a slightly oversize box to hold it loosely, avoiding making it airtight. For an Airfix mineral wagon*, I remove all the plastic ribs in the centre and then cut a piece of lead to fit. A strip of plastic then holds it in place.

 

* I've just bought yet another one (the price was right).... It came with Jackson  spoked wheels, but they've got to go in favour of some nice 3 hole ones plus pin-point bearings. (Not that they don't run well, but they do look awful.)

Edited August 18, 2019 by Il Grifone

[RobMG]

Re weights for wagons . I use lead sheet as do a lot of folk.  I asked a buider who was doing some work on our house, and he gave me a sheet about 2 square feet.    

So it's simple ask a builder.

 

Rob

[amdaley]

The easiest thing to use for wagon weights are the stick on alloy weights that are used for balancing alloy wheels.

They come in a strip of weights ready to stick on.

All you do is take off the backing paper & stick the weight on whether inside or under the wagon.

You can buy them online or I'm sure your local tyre depot would give you some.

[Steamport Southport]

5 hours ago, RobMG said:

Re weights for wagons . I use lead sheet as do a lot of folk.  I asked a buider who was doing some work on our house, and he gave me a sheet about 2 square feet.    

So it's simple ask a builder.

 

Rob

 

How much did he add on to your final bill....

 

 

 

 

Mention of lead always reminds me of the Steptoe and Son episode where they buy "dodgy" lead. They realise where the lead came from when it rains.  

 

 

Jason

[Zero Gravitas]

On 18/08/2019 at 02:12, PatB said:

Got to be careful fixing lead into place with PVA, lest they react and cause your models to explode in slow motion as the resulting compounds expand. Sort of DIY mazak rot. 

 

I’ve always used UHU to glue lead to plastic models, and never experienced any ill effects, even on some Parkside wagons approaching 30 years since assembly.  The one concession I have always made is to never put the lead anywhere air-tight, so have always drilled a couple of small holes in the plastic floor of vans, for example.

[Fat Controller]

1 hour ago, Zero Gravitas said:

 

I’ve always used UHU to glue lead to plastic models, and never experienced any ill effects, even on some Parkside wagons approaching 30 years since assembly.  The one concession I have always made is to never put the lead anywhere air-tight, so have always drilled a couple of small holes in the plastic floor of vans, for example.

Experience has taught me that, when putting lead inside a van, not to rely on adhesive, but to use a couple of self-tappers as well. Whilst the glue will work 95% of the time, when it fails, it's always on a vehicle that's difficult/ impossible to open. Lead flashing is widely obtainable from builder's merchants; it's quite easy to 'thin it down' with a hammer when you want to make a false floor for a mineral wagon, for example.

[That Model Railway Guy]

Hi all,

 

Just stumbled across this thread. Don’t know if it’s of interest to anyone but I recently made a video on building one of the Dapol Kitmaster wagon kits. It's not really a step by step guide but more of an overview if you’re considering making one and want to see what's involved beforehand.

 

I’m not an expert by any definition but I make these videos on the basis that, if an idiot like me can manage it, most people should be able to have a good go! It’s generated a lot more interest than I anticipated so thought I’d post it here in case it’s of use to any prospective builders who might come across this thread in the future  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[doilum]

On 23/08/2018 at 10:19, amdaley said:

For weight you can use the weights that are fitted to car alloy wheels to balance them.

They come in strips which have a self adhesive backing. Pull off the paper backing & stick the weight where needed.

A word with your local tyre fitter might result in some freebies from the scrap bucket. The weights need to be replaced each time a tyre is fitted.

[Il Grifone]

It's probably been mentioned before, but Airfix made a rather serious error with the mineral wagon brake gear. Pushing the lever down would take the brakes off! The wagon should have Morton brakes with only one set of brake gear, a reversing clutch on the side with brakes and a cross shaft.

I slightly shorten the lever - an oblique cut and stick it back together. It is them mounted above the end of the cross shaft (a piece of wire and gives the appearance of the clutch, if you don't look too hard. luckily the door banger partially hides the bodge. Fretting out the solid plastic around the lever improves the appearance, but is a hassle. The coal load is made with an  off centre hump. This can be carved up to give a bit of variety to the load (or replaced all together). Parkside and Cambrian kits can provide spare end doors to add more variety. I would advise fitting brass bearings to the axleguards (plastic makes a poor bearing material, subject to friction and wear) . IIRC  I have already posted on this somewhere in this thread.

 

Other versions of the wagon are available - with and without top doors, riveted rather than welded, pressed steel doors, bottom doors (requiring two separate sets of brake gear)....

Edited September 23, 2020 by Il Grifone

[RobMG]

In answer to your reply Steamport,  NOTHING..  We had already paid him when I asked, and he was more than happy to oblige.  Anyway I have been connected with the building trade for too many years to get caught like that.  If I couldn't get a piece of lead from a builder , I could always go and buy a piece from a local builders supplier. 

 

Rob