Hornby TTS Valenta HST

[Phil Mc]

A major difference between this power car set and previous TTS sound fitted models is that these will not work on DC power.

 

The paperwork in the box still says DC operation is possible (movement only, no sound) but after enquiring with the retailer they came from about the lack of movement on DC, they tried a few sets they have in stock and found that none of them moved, so they asked Hornby, who confirmed that they ONLY work on DCC.

 

Can't see why Hornby would make this change, as it is reducing sales potential to DC users.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Phil.

[Chrisr40]

Hi Phil

 

There is a cv to change to allow dc running. Which is fine if you have a dcc controller that can program chips but not likely if you wanted to to run it as dc only...but then again why buy tts fitted locomotives if you aren't going to use the sound. Bit of a quandary and you can't please everyone. Probably best to replace the blanking plug and sell the chip.

 

Chris

[The Black Hat]

Legomanbiffo does the best Valenta sounds, if money is no object go for those paired with an EM2 speaker and the sounds are by far the most realistic class 43 sounds you will hear. With the standard speaker though you might not see as big of a difference between that and the TTS as you would hope.

 

Another thing that legomanbiffo does that others dont is things like directional Horns, so only the forward facing power car plays a horn, simple idea but its a big improvement to the realism.

 

Richard

 

True but Howes also do this for HST. Howes also have a fantastic version of the air suspension of the Mk. 3 stock too - but its 50/50 between Howes or Biffo for me. That said, Biffo probably edges it now with drivelock to thrash the engine. 

[legomanbiffo]

All three versions of my HST have randomised air suspension sounds on F16. This is set up to simulate the effect you often hear at a station platform when they arrive or depart. This feature is also on my other sound sets of locos that regularly hauled Mk3's (47/7, 86, 87, 90 etc).

[Phil Mc]

Hi Phil

 

There is a cv to change to allow dc running. Which is fine if you have a dcc controller that can program chips but not likely if you wanted to to run it as dc only...but then again why buy tts fitted locomotives if you aren't going to use the sound. Bit of a quandary and you can't please everyone. Probably best to replace the blanking plug and sell the chip.

 

Chris

 

I accept that I'm probably in a minority that has easy access to DC and DCC controlled layouts, so the option of being able to use these power cars, straight from the box, on either would be useful to me.

CV tweaking may well solve the issue, I shall have to investigate.

 

Even if this wasn't the case, I would buy TTS sound fitted models to run on DC only control, if that was the only way to get a particular model (livery, running number, etc) as I don't find the relatively low extra cost of TTS prohibitively off-putting.

I'm sure I can't be the only one in this situation, and Hornby have proved that it is possible to factory set the decoders to allow for both styles of control, so I think limiting sales opportunities is a backward step on their part !

 

Cheers,

Phil.

[Rich Papper]

Hello

 

Have a done a speaker switch today to see the difference. Fitted a square megabass speaker that arrived this morning from Roads and Rails (no connection - satisfied customer) as recommended earlier in this thread. Picture below. Still not going to be a 'close your eyes and you're at Paddington moment', and it isn't as good as legomanbiffo's, but it does sound a lot better - especially for only £9. The main thing is it seems to have got rid of the hissy / tinny noise that was bugging me. Also, no surgery to the power car, just needed to trim the mounts off the speaker enclosure - 10 seconds with a razor saw. 

 

 

Rich

[Phil Mc]

I've made CV 29=6, and now I have full function under DCC control, and movement + lights (no sound) under DC control.

Just what I wanted, and just how they should have been from the factory !

My DCC controller allows me to 'write' to CV's, but not to 'read' them, so I have no idea what CV 29 was set to in the first place, even though the paperwork with the power cars says the default is '6', clearly it wasn't !!

 

Cheers,

Phil.

[Ouroborus]

Any chance that you could repost the above pic showing the speaker in place - I couldn't quite get mine to fit as you've done, especially in the power car. Non-powered car was easy

[owentherail]

If you stick the speaker to the ceiling of the power car it fits, I’ve explained how I fit them in this video

https://youtu.be/PmyVDFBl8OA

Richard

Got my speaker in there Richard, you ain't wrong when you say it's a tight fit, but fit it does...... Just.

[Marcyg]

How do the sounds work on the dummy car? I assumed the engine revs from the chip, increased as the motor spun up, which cant happen in a dummy car

[RAF96]

How do the sounds work on the dummy car? I assumed the engine revs from the chip, increased as the motor spun up, which cant happen in a dummy car

Manual notching using F5/6/7/8. Or if allocated the same address as the power car it will follow the speed step of that.

Edited September 22, 2018 by RAFHAAA96

[JCClark]

How do the sounds work on the dummy car? I assumed the engine revs from the chip, increased as the motor spun up, which cant happen in a dummy car

Hornby suggest you give different numbers to the two power cars and then run as a consistent on DCC.

Makes sense as you can then independently start engines, work lights and horn only sounds on front Power Car.

John

[Verulam Central]

Hi all was thinking of buy this HST but want to turn back into dc is is easy to do?   I was just wondering if anyone  had done it?many thanks Andy

[cravensdmufan]

Don’t think TTS chips support consisting? Most people set them to same address

Richard

I have only been able to use "old style" consists on my TTS diesel decoders with my NCE Powercab. This results in only 28 speed steps. I don't think TTS decoders support advance consisting.

 

Would be interested to know others experience with this HST as I've provisionally ordered one from my local model shop.

[cravensdmufan]

Hi all was thinking of buy this HST but want to turn back into dc is is easy to do?   I was just wondering if anyone  had done it?many thanks Andy

Just remove the decoders and speakers and insert blanking plates in the decoder sockets.

 

Such as these: https://www.petersspares.com/Hornby-x9255-dcc-blanking-plug-8pin-for-class-50-and-pendolino-loco.ir

 

I purchased a brand new Virgin HST from Rails of Sheffield which was advertised as DCC ready with TTS removed, and that's how they had done it.

 

I believe TTS fitted locos will operate on D.C. but they will not produce any sound.

 

You could then sell your Valenta HST TTS decoders - which I'm sure would be snapped up pretty quickly!

[JCClark]

Don’t think TTS chips support consisting? Most people set them to same address

Richard

Hi Richard

It mentions the consisting on one of the leaflets that comes with the TTS set that I have just received.

Regards

John

[RAF96]

Worth a read...

https://tonystrains.com/complete-guide-to-consisting/

 

In essence it depends upon both the controller and the decoder as to which consist method you can use.

Rob

[Marcyg]

I have only been able to use "old style" consists on my TTS diesel decoders with my NCE Powercab. This results in only 28 speed steps. I don't think TTS decoders support advance consisting.

 

Would be interested to know others experience with this HST as I've provisionally ordered one from my local model shop.

That's how I have to do it with my NCE controller. 28 speed steps doesn't bother me as I have a main line layout where trains enter the scenic section at speed anyway, but to someone with a small shunting layout, this could be quite an issue

[daz9284]

afternoon all, I have just fitted Hornby tts valenta sound to two GNER hsts, with upgraded speakers from roads and rails. i notice on the tts info sheet that there is an aux function on F25. i'm just wondering if the cab light led wire can be moved to one of the spare ones on the circuit board (LED4 or LED5) and F25 programmed to turn the cab light on/off, or to the green wire on the decoder?

 

many thanks

darryl

[RAF96]

F25 Aux is associated with the green wire on the TTS decoder. Trace the socket pin to see where it connects to on the PCB.

You cannot remap TTS functions to another F- number, so F25 it is.

[daz9284]

23 hours ago, RAF96 said:

F25 Aux is associated with the green wire on the TTS decoder. Trace the socket pin to see where it connects to on the PCB.

You cannot remap TTS functions to another F- number, so F25 it is.

cheers

 

put the cab light in both on F25 on the green aux wire.

[jjb1970]

I think the Valenta engine highlights the fundamental problem with model sound. People remember the high pitched scream of valenta engines and want that in a model, but that creates an incongruence between what is seen and heard as people want the sort of sound of a close up engine but the visual effect of a OO model is quite distant. Sound just doesn't scale in model form.

[charliepetty]

On 19/09/2018 at 21:31, Rich Papper said:

Hello

 

Have a done a speaker switch today to see the difference. Fitted a square megabass speaker that arrived this morning from Roads and Rails (no connection - satisfied customer) as recommended earlier in this thread. Picture below. Still not going to be a 'close your eyes and you're at Paddington moment', and it isn't as good as legomanbiffo's, but it does sound a lot better - especially for only £9. The main thing is it seems to have got rid of the hissy / tinny noise that was bugging me. Also, no surgery to the power car, just needed to trim the mounts off the speaker enclosure - 10 seconds with a razor saw. 

 

 

Rich

The speaker you have taken out is a good speaker, (Not as good as the High Bass though) the problem with it is that the sound chamber (Black Box) is not sealed to make it Air Tight, 4 Screws and a hole where the wires come out do not make it airtight.   Taking out the screws, putting a gasket of PVA glue around the black chamber, sealing the hole with the wire through would solve this and make twice as good, all for about 10p.

 

The Air Tight test is:

Do as above, put 4 blobs of glue in the 4 screw holes, then lightly press with your finger the diaphram of the speaker, 'If Airtight' the 4 blobs of glue in the screw holes will go up and down !!!

if they don't then check all the joints you have sealed.

 

Charlie (dckits-Legomanbiffo)

[JPinza55]

Hi, 

 

I've coded both decoders for this product under the same address on the Hornby Elite. (I did it separately and the engine car worked fine, up until the dummy was attached)

 

Now I have sounds/lights working correctly in both units, however absolutely no drive? Does this mean there is an error with the motors/decoders now?

 

I used 70 acceleration and deceleration and 10 for Start Voltage.

 

Any advice?

[Ouroborus]

Is the motor not working or is it that you have a large delay until it starts moving?