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Upgrading an 00 gauge Lima Class 33 - waste of time?


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My old man got me a 'Burma Star' class 33 when I was a young'un, and so I want a Class 33 on my layout - unfortunately my bid on a Heljan 33 got sniped, but I've seen there are many Lima 33's on eBay for relatively inexpensive prices. 

 

I realise this was one of the few representations of these locomotives available for many years, so I would expect that there may be articles and 'super detail' packs available - but just wanted to verify before I dump a bunch of cash into the scheme, whether this is infact the case? I am already assuming replacing handrails with brass, but I have never done this kind of thing before so I don't know if I might be better served with just getting the Heljan version!

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Hello William,

 

I would highly recommend getting a cheaper model and getting stuck in to try and bring it up to the standard you want, it's fun, it helps you learn skills, and is rewarding. Plus, if you use a cheap model, it's not the end of the world if it doesn't work out.

On my 'clinic' thread (link in my signature) I've been doing just that, and it's been really fun.

 

As well as handrails, the standard things to get would be flush glazing (stuck in with some glue 'n glaze - don't use superglue!), bufferbeam detail (which you can make from wire, and use screw couplings), and you could upgrade the motor using a CD tray motor conversion kit (check out ebay and youtube tutorials) for a nice smooth running machine with more power.

 

Hope it goes well!

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I agree with Corbs. Additionally for a couple of quid more you could add brass buffers and etched grilles for the roof fan and the radiator (large grille on the body side). It is fun and you will get a massive sense of achievement from producing something unique.

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Hi folks,

 

Go for it!

 

If I remember correctly the Lima roof grille is too small, so make a point of replacing it; the difference is more than worth the cost of the etch.

 

Regards,

 

Alex.

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A1 models also sell their etches for a number of older Lima/Hornby models, whereas generally (though not in all cases) Shawplan focus on the newer issue models for their etches and laserglaze kits.

 

The A1 Models etches have the advantage of being cheaper than the Shawplan offerings (a bit less detailed however probably), so for a low budget Lima 33 would be a better prospect. They can be found on eBay, and go to a number of shows in the midlands and the north.

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Definitely go for the upgrade as you will enjoy the end product far more than just having something straight out of a box and will be far more personal.

For me personally there were several reasons did it. the first is that with the rising cost of stock I'm pretty much done buying new Loco's and stock (as trying to work to a budget as having a house and family to support money is tight) upgrading older stock also gives me satisfaction. 

For instance I would love to get a Bachmann 90 but unless I see one for silly money I will stick with the Hornby ones and detail as necessary. I have several older Lima Loco's that will get upgrades now as my son is old enough to understand I can share what I have with him too. 

The Lima 33 I did had a dead motor so purchased some Heljan spares from Howes  and turned it into a run with anything loco. The sprues for the bogie frames and bogie towers, Fuel tanks, cab interiors can be fitted  and will really make it look the part when finished. I think the hardest part was bending the cab front handrails.

 

Good Luck with this 

 

Cheers Trailrage

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Thank you all, I have a Lima 33, replacement motor and EM gauge wheelset, and a veritable stack of brass parts - including a Burma Star nameplate - which happened to be the diesel that my father got me on my first trainset. The fact it's location and era relevant for my current project is just icing on the cake.

 

 

I hope to update this thread with some progress, in the meantime - thanks again.

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...I don't know if I might be better served with just getting the Heljan version!

 If you first anfd foremost want a reliable traction unit with all the good qualities that come with current centre motor all wheel drive chassis, this is the runaway winner. On rail dirt generation grounds alone I simply don't allow traction tyre dependent 'unpower' mechanisms on the layout. 

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I've been detailing my Lima Class 33 recently, and I'm really pleased with the results. The first 3 parts of the detailing are in YouTube videos - might give you some ideas. I'm by no means an expert, so if I can do all this so can anyone else - and I'm sure many far better that I. 

 

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I'm at work so can't reivew that video now but I will tonight.

 

I realised that I didn't have any flush glazing, so just ordered some for the Lima 33 from SE Finecast. I also snuck in flush glazing set for the Triang Dock Authority shunter - I know categorically I cannot justify it, but it was my other childhood loco and I needed to make up the £5 minimum order :)

Edited by Lacathedrale
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I'm at work so can't reivew that video now but I will tonight.

 

I realised that I didn't have any flush glazing, so just ordered some for the Lima 33 from SE Finecast. I also snuck in flush glazing set for the Triang Dock Authority shunter - I know categorically I cannot justify it, but it was my other childhood loco and I needed to make up the £5 minimum order :)

I haven't got the 33 grill from Shawplan, although I might well pick one up if I see them at an exhibition. I think it's about knowing when to draw the line!

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Go for the Lima.

I loved Lima and still do,loads available,not expensive and easy to work on. And the Lima pancake motor can be made to run absolutely lovely with very little work.

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Lots of Heljan spares are available from Howes Models, including bogie frames and underframe tanks (exactly what is available does depend on what Heljan have produced recently.  This may be a source of some good detailing bits.

I have used them before updating the Heljan model to have the correct fuel tanks (there are two versions)

 

The Lima model as it comes is only suitable for an as built 33 (differences to exhaust silencer and roof detail)  Though it can all be sorted with plasticard and evergreen strip in the way we used to model.

 

I would advise to stay clear of the old A1 models parts, none of which are an improvement over the molded detail (yet for some reason everyone (myself included) always used to carve off all this finely tooled detail and replace with crude lumps of brass.  The Shawplan bits are far superior, he supplies (under the Extreme Etchings brand) an etched stainless steel roof grill and bodyside grill.  With some thought I am sure both could be fitted to the Lima model (however you would probably end up spending more than you paid for the model on the etches as quality costs.)  Shawplan may still sell the old brass version, one of the last (and best) etchings developed under the old owners, I have these on a couple of Heljan models (with my third being fitted with the far superior EE version).

 

Other worthwhile detailing around hand rails, glazing (try cutting your own from clear plastic for the best result), buffer beam detail has all been mentioned. 

 

 

Also from the Lima range worth a look is the 73 (quite possibly their best tooling, looks fantastic if you add handrails and seperate underframe bits), HST, Class 59 (which makes a good hybrid improvement with Bachmann 66 parts) and Class 47 

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Go for the Lima.

I loved Lima and still do,loads available,not expensive and easy to work on. And the Lima pancake motor can be made to run absolutely lovely with very little work.

WELL SAID! It's about time the myth of dreadful Lima diesel chassis was debunked. They aren't even close to state of the art, require some work with a soldering iron if you want DCC, but if maintained properly they can and do run well. Lima chassis are like K's kits - very vocal, self-appointed experts tell us they're rubbish, whilst the rest of us just get on with using them.

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Hi everyone,

 

A few friends have Lima models that, with a little TLC, have become wonderful runners.  Clean them, lubricate them, and keep them run-in.

 

I have also fitted decoders to a couple of them and it's usually very straightforward.

 

Regards,

 

Alex.

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I have 11 Lima's. 4 are DCC with stay alive. The others are good old DC. All run absolutely perfect,just as good as anything brand new I have bought recently. And with a little effort in detailing,well worth it. The only model that requires a little bit more work in the way of extra pick ups essential is the 94xx.

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Well, the loco has arrived and tomorrow evening I've got the house to myself, so I guess it's time to get started.

 

This is what we start with:

HNWTEwj.jpg

 

OnVIXOx.jpg

 

The only thing I reckon I need to sort out fairly sharpish is what to do about the bogie-mounted couplings - they are long tension locks. My layout is based in the mid 80's so I don't know if kadee knuckle couplers or Sprat & Winkle couplers would be more appropriate? Stock will be Br Mk1-derived EMUs and 4TC's, and some mixed Mk1-Mk2 rakes. Freight will be mostly air-braked four wheeled stock (PGA, HEA hoppers and various sundry engineers items) but a smattering of 16T and elderly vacuum braked stuff mixed in.

 

Thoughts? I reckon a goalpost between the buffer beams for sprat & winkle would probably be the easiest solution!

Edited by Lacathedrale
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Well that's just annoying - requested a refund (it was listed as 00) , and I've ordered a 'proper' 00 one from Hattons along with some of the Bachmann mk1's to soothe my soul.

 

i'm sure there's some delicious irony in the coaches being individually more costly than the loco that hauls them.  :)

Edited by Lacathedrale
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