signalnorth Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 I have a Bachman Flying Pig that has started behaving oddly and I wondered if anyone might shed some light on the problem with an aim to a cure. It won't start away in forward direction and only reluctantly starts away in a backwards direction, however bizarrely when I do get it to run backwards if I suddenly flick my direction switch on my controller (I'm not digital by the way) it continues in the same direction(!) until I bring it to a halt by reducing power! Also odd is the fact that if I place another loco on the same track the Flying Pig will now start away in both directions and will respond to a sudden change in controller direction. Odd eh! Hoping someone might shed some light on this. Its not the controller by the way as all my other locos work fine with it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted March 29, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 29, 2019 First check the pickups are all where they are supposed to be. If one gets dislodged (e.g. during wheel cleaning) it can come into intermittent contact with something it shouldn't and strange things can happen. I've come across something similar (though not identical) on a fairly well-worn Bachmann Jinty. If your loco has covered a good few miles, it's probably time to strip, clean and relubricate. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigherb Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 I have had this with a couple of Bachmann locos, would only run if another loco was on the track. Can't remember what the problem actually was (might have been the capacitor) but cured by hard wiring direct from the pickups to the motor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 4 hours ago, bigherb said: I have had this with a couple of Bachmann locos, would only run if another loco was on the track. Can't remember what the problem actually was (might have been the capacitor) but cured by hard wiring direct from the pickups to the motor. That was what I was thinking, maybe the cap is breaking down and strangely acting like a diode, if that is even possible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
signalnorth Posted March 29, 2019 Author Share Posted March 29, 2019 Thanks all. Sounds a tad complicated. When you say wire directly from the pick ups, am I by-passing something - The Capacitor ? And if so what role does the capacitor play? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeremyC Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 (edited) 10 hours ago, signalnorth said: I have a Bachman Flying Pig that has started behaving oddly and I wondered if anyone might shed some light on the problem with an aim to a cure. It won't start away in forward direction and only reluctantly starts away in a backwards direction, however bizarrely when I do get it to run backwards if I suddenly flick my direction switch on my controller (I'm not digital by the way) it continues in the same direction(!) until I bring it to a halt by reducing power! Also odd is the fact that if I place another loco on the same track the Flying Pig will now start away in both directions and will respond to a sudden change in controller direction. Odd eh! Hoping someone might shed some light on this. Its not the controller by the way as all my other locos work fine with it. The fact you can reverse the controller and the loco keeps going in the same direction makes me wonder if the loco is chipped for DCC (I appreciate your controller isn't DCC), in which case the problem might be the decoder. Edited March 29, 2019 by JeremyC 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 15 minutes ago, signalnorth said: ... what role does the capacitor play? It's supposed to suppress radio signal emmissions, and thereby avoid interfering with radio and television signals. The capacitior, IMHO, serves no useful purpose in this day and age, and I always remove them. Wire it one rail to one motor terminal, and the other to the other terminal; simples !! Regards, John Isherwood. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 The Capacitor reduces the arcing across the commutator which seems to be the cause of a lot of radio interference. I always fit ceramic caps to my locos. We had issues with a Bachmann B1 and oddly enough none of our other 100 or so locos affecting next door's TV which better pickups and a ceramic cap seem to have cured. X04 motors run hot and sometimes throw brush carbons when the solder melts if you run them without the original suppressors without adding a replacement capacitor. Yours sounds like a DCC equipped model to me. Hard wiring sounds liken the best idea! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 On 29/03/2019 at 16:44, JeremyC said: The fact you can reverse the controller and the loco keeps going in the same direction makes me wonder if the loco is chipped for DCC... Far and away the most likely explanation in my opinion. Which leads to consideration of these highlighted elements: On 29/03/2019 at 06:09, signalnorth said: I have a Bachmann Flying Pig that has started behaving oddly and I wondered if anyone might shed some light on the problem with an aim to a cure. It won't start away in forward direction and only reluctantly starts away in a backwards direction, however bizarrely when I do get it to run backwards if I suddenly flick my direction switch on my controller (I'm not digital by the way) it continues in the same direction(!) until I bring it to a halt by reducing power! Also odd is the fact that if I place another loco on the same track the Flying Pig will now start away in both directions and will respond to a sudden change in controller direction. Odd eh! Hoping someone might shed some light on this. Its not the controller by the way as all my other locos work fine with it. Taking the statements highlighted: the loco used to operate normally in both directions but now doesn't, but will operate in both directions if another loco is on the same track; then the most likely reason is a change in the controller output (or potentially the introduction of some other device - candidates include HF track cleaner or lighting unit - that has been recently connected to the layout, not mentioned). No effect will occur on straight DC locos. If the controller is the only device connected to the track you may be best advised to get its output checked. First things first though, open up the Flying Pig and see if there is a decoder. If there is, then a test with the decoder removed should reveal it to work normally. (Then move on to having the controller output checked.) If there isn't then it's time for more information and think harder... On 30/03/2019 at 14:15, Mersey507003 said: ...Many members on here will say no do not fit tender pickuos because they cause drag ... Wiper pick ups do, however well adjusted to minimise the effect. Split axle collection off pinpoints or plain journals is always preferable for 'no incremental drag' pick up. Bachmann's old split axle carrying and tender wheelsets are very useful for this purpose, you should try it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mancunian Posted April 2, 2019 Share Posted April 2, 2019 Flying Pigs and Piggin' Jubilee's...? After two days of cursing the jerky juddering things the motor was removed from each and I thought my prayers had been answered! They were great at first and for a while afterwards until the jerky and erratic running started again! The worm-gear end of the motor of the Ivatt 4 and Jubilee models has four holes, 3..6..9..12 o'clock positions. Rinse-out the motor with IPA and then drain and allow to dry. Once dried, fill or cover each of the four holes before refitting the motor. A tiny spot of gear oil to each motor-bearing via the point of a pin..no more! The holes in the end of the motor casing allow ingress of oil and/or grease from the worm-gear to the armature which seeps to the armature and brushes at the opposite end. If all goes well then the motor should be fine. In my case one motor has slow-speed issues but is otherwise a flying machine. All such models, especially Bachmann loco's, will now not be used until the motor in each has been modified and all holes sealed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
signalnorth Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 I thought I'd have a go at this job today, finally. Can't find an instruction leaflet on the Bachman site (can't find my original) so as a result can't work out how to remove the body. I've found one screw under the bar that connects with the tender must there must be another somewhere. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyID Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 I was about to suggest that you apply some oinkment, but I thought better of it. OK, OK! I'll have you know I've thrown out of far better establishments than this. 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 On 22/04/2019 at 11:42, signalnorth said: I thought I'd have a go at this job today, finally. Can't find an instruction leaflet on the Bachman site (can't find my original) so as a result can't work out how to remove the body. I've found one screw under the bar that connects with the tender must there must be another somewhere. There are just two, down deep holes along the keeper plate centre line. These deep holes are positioned nearest the rear spring hangers of the leading and trailing coupled wheelsets. No need to undo any screw heads that you can readily see on the underside. (This is one where it isn't necessary to remove the tender drawbar, the cab floor is actually part of the chassis block.) Be prepared for the body to be pretty firmly attached even with the screws out, the metal parts of body and chassis are very close fitting. Much wiggling often required. Also make sure the pipework under the fireman's side of the cab is released. It's an awkward cuss... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
signalnorth Posted April 25, 2019 Author Share Posted April 25, 2019 Ok thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Blandford1969 Posted April 25, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 25, 2019 Just seen this topic, if its running like the flying pig its not run since December as its still under maintenance, I'll get my coat............. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
signalnorth Posted April 25, 2019 Author Share Posted April 25, 2019 Body came away easily - I must have been lucky. All soldered up and working again! Thank you all for your fantastic help and suggestions in this matter Thanks to:- dunsignalling bigherb RAF96 Jeremy C CCtransuk Davidcbroad mersey507003 34th letterbetween band d Mancunian Andy id Blandford 196 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now